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tuner said the map got rescaled somehow during saving the file possibly
That's just not a thing that happens. There are checksums in the file to detect data corruption, and the PCM won't start up if the checksums don't match the rest of the data. It is theoretically possible, but extremely unlikely, that two numbers might randomly get changed in a way that balances out for checksum purposes, but anything like "map got rescaled" would be astronomically unlikely.
That's just not a thing that happens. There are checksums in the file to detect data corruption, and the PCM won't start up if the checksums don't match the rest of the data. It is theoretically possible, but extremely unlikely, that two numbers might randomly get changed in a way that balances out for checksum purposes, but anything like "map got rescaled" would be astronomically unlikely.
This isn't a stock pcm though. When the Holley file was saved, something went wrong with it. When I first opened it up on my laptop, it brought up the message below. No clue why it happened, but it is fine now.
This isn't a stock pcm though. When the Holley file was saved, something went wrong with it. When I first opened it up on my laptop, it brought up the message below. No clue why it happened, but it is fine now.
I see, thanks. It kinda makes sense, however IMO Holley should just treat that as a corrupted file and not even try to use it.
Well, I said as long as it makes 600 or more, then I would be happy and the project was a success. And that's what we did last night. Power peaked a couple hundred rpm lower than I expected it to, but the dyno was off a bit on the synced rpm, so the dyno was behind about 100-200 rpm. I think realistically it peaked about 7200-7300. But the power carries pretty flat up to 7800-7900 where we let out. Torque peaked higher than I expected, but it's a nice curve in my opinion. I think it'll want shifted around 8300-8600, but I'll have to play with it and see where it falls back into the curve again.
Figured I would give an update on the car. Been running good, there was a time there from getting it tuned till about early August or so where I really only drove it a handful of times. On one hand I was just busy with work. On the other hand, getting the car in and out of the garage kind of sucks because I need to lay out two 2x12s so the muffler doesn't catch the garage floor (garage floor is about 2" taller than the driveway, and the driveway instantly is on a slope). The car also was being kind of a paint to drive. It would take wayy too much pedal to get going randomly, it would stumble on itself taking off, and cruising on the highway, it wouldn't be happy in 6th gear unless I was going 80+...
Honestly I was just tired of it. That is until I pulled it out to wash it one night in the driveway and went to pull it back in the garage and literally had to put my foot to the floor to get it to move. I pulled the hood off and found the tps pigtail barely in the sensor. Now, from the get go on this, the plug never fully went in due to the weather tight seal and how tight it is under the airpan/throttle body upper lip. But it was in there enough originally that I didn't have issues on the dyno or when I first drove the car afterwards. I thought about it and decided to just remove the seal as the car only sees water when it rains, and it is damn near impossible to get water at that point even when washing it. Plugged it in and the latch held on tight to the sensor. Did a TPS relearn on the Holley, fired right up, and revved up with barely touching the pedal haha. All was right in the world. Was able to cruise the car at 45mph in 6th gear without issues. Been driving it and making a couple pulls with some buddies here and there getting an idea where the car stands. Thing is rowdy for sure and the 17" wheel and 26" tire is about at the limit for the 3.90, but it does run out to 8-8500 strong.
A couple weeks ago it started getting a higher idle than normal, hanging the throttle a bit. Pulled the hood off and found the throttle body stud nuts were all loose, one was even gone. So removed them, put lock washers in and tightened them all back up. Thought that fixed the high idle but it came back. It isn't too terrible, but target is around 1-1100, and it is wanting to sit around 1600 or so for a bit, eventually comes down if I am sitting long enough. Thought about it Sunday night and figured I haven't touched the throttle blades since I first started the motor. So after I got home yesterday with it, I pulled the hood and backed the blade screw off a hair and brought it down to where it should be. Revved it a few times and came right back to that 1k range. So that should be good pending some driving and testing. But while I was looking over the engine bay, I saw a puddle of fuel on the wiper cowl around my regulator and flex sensor. Started snooping around the fittings and such, nothing loose, nothing wet. Primed the pump a few times, no more fuel coming out, until I started the motor up and then found it seeping instantly from the regulator. I am guessing that the diaphragm dried up a bit over the last few years and now it is leaking. This probably also explains why I have been going through fuel fairly quickly besides the new motor just having a higher demand than the LS6 did. So going to Summit tonight to grab a new diaphragm and get that swapped out tonight and should be good to go!
Talking about this. Just curious why a 2bar vs 1bar
Totally different build than the OP, but I also have a 3.3bar on an NA motor. The C6 ZR1 map was much cheaper than LS1/LS6 maps, and with a firmware change and scale- you can have room to grow. Saved money on the map, had to pay HPT Credits anyway, room to grow should I decide too... "easy" button
