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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 09:11 AM
  #41  
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Thanks for the pictures @mykream ! That makes it easy, time to get this ordered from Rockauto, I don't see the heatshield in your installed picture.
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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 09:13 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Davcruz
Thanks for the pictures @mykream ! That makes it easy, time to get this ordered from Rockauto, I don't see the heatshield in your installed picture.
I believe the shield is LT specific, so the LS block doesn't have the provision to mount it. Not a big deal though. It was cheap so I figured I would try it and see.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 11:14 AM
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Revisiting this LT starter deal thanks to all the information provided by mykream! I never knew this was a thing until I saw this thread.

Apparently you can buy these late model starters all day long from ebay wrecking yards for 60 to 70 bucks. and if you want to use the cool little trigger wire connector you can get the connector pigtail on amazon for like 10 bucks.

Looking at this option to replace the cheap orielys starter in my daily driver LS swapped Ford Ranger.

Of course I will keep this in mind if the original 1997 starter takes a dump in the C5 or my sons 98 Camaro SS. Both of which have long tube headers on them.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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Anyone know how to correctly rig a trigger to the starter to rotate the engine a hair from the engine bay?

Let's say you want to turn it easy while setting valvetrain. That sort of thing. A momentary switch. I don't know what would be appropriate wire sizes or trigger for this to avoid fire or electrocution.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tusc
Anyone know how to correctly rig a trigger to the starter to rotate the engine a hair from the engine bay?

Let's say you want to turn it easy while setting valvetrain. That sort of thing. A momentary switch. I don't know what would be appropriate wire sizes or trigger for this to avoid fire or electrocution.

Super simple. Any good momentary switch fused with like a 15a fuse and 12-14g wire straight from power or battery to the solenoid/relay at the starter.

Obviously super common with racecar stuff running solid roller cams.

Or a screwdriver across the posts at the starter.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 01:31 PM
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Simple enough indeed. Thanks.

I've honestly never encountered such a thing in person. I picked up on it in one of the Finnegan Garage videos on Blasphemi from Drag Week and the lightbulb went off.
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 01:42 PM
  #47  
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Here is a commonly used momentary switch. I meant to attach to the post above lol.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/33574828248...xoCeCgQAvD_BwE
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 05:22 PM
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Finally started back on the car this weekend. Since the hood is pin on now, I wanted to be able to move the hood out of the way when working on the car. So I got another set of Aerocatch pins and made a piece to mount it on the wall.


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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 05:24 PM
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Got to work getting the rails and injectors back on the manifold, along with the other fittings. Decided that it was going to be tight in the back for a low dollar style map sensor, so I drilled and tapped a 1/8 pipe port on the front of the low ram. Got some new fittings for the fuel rails installed, just need to make a new crossover line, along with return and feed off the back of the rails in the cowl.

Needed to cut a little more of the cowl out so the manifold could be set straight down in place. Also started connecting the HCR harness to the motor to see how everything would be routed nicely. I found myself trying to mount the holley in the cabin of the car and then deal with the harness in the engine bay, but this is obviously not the way to go about it.. So finally decided on its final resting place in the glovebox opening. It is mounted underneath where the airbag is on the glovebox frame so when the box is open, it is accessible. Had to make a hole in the back of it for the harness to pass through, but I am a lot happier with this now. I pulled the rest of the harness into the engine bay so only the 2 canbus leads, the two ecu plugs, and the relay/fuse box would be in the cabin.











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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 06:03 PM
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I think the real magic is the air box assembly. This car is going to be glorious.
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 06:06 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Tusc
I think the real magic is the air box assembly. This car is going to be glorious.
It is such a work of art. Couldn't have been done any better. I gave him an idea and said run with it.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 08:40 AM
  #52  
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Got the manifold placed back on the motor for fuel lines. Found my existing feed line on the car still works which is nice. Had to make a new return line from the passenger side rail to the regulator. The front crossover is going to be a pain due to my vacuum pump suction line crossing in front of it. Gonna need to play with some different fitting/hose end combinations.
IAT is mounted in the air pan as well. Probably the easiest task so far on this lol.

My other conundrum was getting the "corvette" dash pad insert back in place. If anyone has ever had the dash apart, you see how the insert is attached to the airbag frame. Now I did have a neat little mount for the holley where the airbag was, but the harness didn't quite work out in there and my original insert didn't get trimmed so well and kind of looked mehh. So I bought a new insert to work with. The trick was going to be getting this on the airbag frame but without the airbag. The side brackets for this to all come together are actually sandwiched around the ignitor canister for the bag.. Which I was a bit leery on how I was going to separate them (and/or discharge/blow up the canister haha). Looked at the overall shell of it that houses the bag (which I removed already) and found the mounting brackets that fasten it to the dash frame line up with the case without the other canister plates.. I just need to find the rest of the screws. But these are 10-24 screws if I do need to find a few more.







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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 11:25 AM
  #53  
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So the height of the rails in that intake necessitate or make the most sense to run through the cowl. I haven't seen that one before, but only because I don't see many tall intakes on C5s.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 12:17 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Tusc
So the height of the rails in that intake necessitate or make the most sense to run through the cowl. I haven't seen that one before, but only because I don't see many tall intakes on C5s.
I actually started running the lines in the cowl when I had the Fast 102 and the Fore Innovations rails.


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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 12:34 PM
  #55  
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Got a lot going on there.

Did you run the steam tube out to a braided line?
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 12:35 PM
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Yeah, the new setup has just been a rubber hose out to the radiator though.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 10:00 AM
  #57  
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Almost ready to start this thing soon pending a couple small things. Need to finish mounting the holley. Just need to make a bracket up to hold it in place. Need to connect the vac pump outlet hose to the catch can in the rear (hose is ran, just need to fasten it to frame and add a fitting). Diff is out of the car currently due to a leak between the intermediate housing and diff. RTV was used on the oring and I believe that it is not allowing the oring to do its job. So waiting on a new oring then will put it back together. May use some light anaerobic sealant right at the faces, but may not. Once all that is done, I can dump some 110 in the thing and a quick base map and turn it over.




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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 10:12 AM
  #58  
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What's the sensor at center front of the intake manifold? Map?
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tusc
What's the sensor at center front of the intake manifold? Map?
Yeah, 2 bar map from Low Doller
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Old Mar 17, 2025 | 07:50 AM
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Finally after thousands of revisions it feels like and my brain shooting off in random directions to decide where to mount the Terminator.. It is finally in its resting place for good lol




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