Mobile One weight
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12
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From: San Diego CA
Mobile One weight
My 1997 has 56000 miles on it. At the next oil change (60,000) does it make sense to use 10W 30 Mobile One vs. the 5W 30 that I have been using. Am I correct in that the slightly higher weight is more appropriate as engines get more miles on them,, or is this just fiction?
Thanks
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
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From: San Diego CA
Re: Mobile One weight (brucelee)
56000 miles using synthetic oil is like 10,000 miles using petroleum-based oils. If you are not experiencing any oil-burning (and you shouldn't be), then I'd stick with the 5W-30. A Mobile chemist told me that most of your engine wear occures at startup. Even if the ambient temp is 60 degrees F, a 5W oil will flow better (and therefore protect better) than a 10W oil.
The chemist I spoke to lives in Texas and uses a 0W-30 weight in his car. Needless-to-say, anything beyond 5W-30 is unnessasary for most driving situations in the US.
[Modified by Dave68, 11:51 AM 4/11/2003]
The chemist I spoke to lives in Texas and uses a 0W-30 weight in his car. Needless-to-say, anything beyond 5W-30 is unnessasary for most driving situations in the US.
[Modified by Dave68, 11:51 AM 4/11/2003]
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SE Idaho
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Mobile One weight (Dave68)
Every oil study I have read that was done by a reputable agency or firm such as those conducted by GM/Ford/NASA, shows the when using multiviscosity oils the hot oil weight is the same regardless of the cold oil weight number.
In other words, 5W30, and 10W30 have the same oil viscosity after the engine warms up. However, when first starting the engine, the lower the number the faster the oil flows up to the top of the engine and heads...thus less wear.
I live in TN where it gets very hot during the summer, but I use 5W, and would consider 0W; except it might be grounds to void an engine warranty...don't know for sure since I have never read any official document from GM, as it pertains to warranty, on this weight oil.
In other words, 5W30, and 10W30 have the same oil viscosity after the engine warms up. However, when first starting the engine, the lower the number the faster the oil flows up to the top of the engine and heads...thus less wear.
I live in TN where it gets very hot during the summer, but I use 5W, and would consider 0W; except it might be grounds to void an engine warranty...don't know for sure since I have never read any official document from GM, as it pertains to warranty, on this weight oil.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Re: Mobile One weight (WhiteC5Vette)
0W-30 has better high temperature viscosity then either the 5W-30 or the 10W-30. Where the 10W-30 is better is the high temperature shear capability and as such it will hold it's viscosity better then the lower weights.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Ocean Springs MS
Re: Mobile One weight (Tom/99)
I started using Mobil 1, 10W-30 oil at the very first oil change. I do change my oil every 2,000 miles.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 320
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From: Harrisburg PA
Re: Mobile One weight (brucelee)
I bought my '94 Camaro w/LT1 at 40k miles. Since then, I always (almost) used Mobil 1 10w-30. I have been fortunate in that my car has been parked in semi-climate controlled garages for most of its life, so the start-up friction losses while the oil heats up have probably been minimal. I have 202,000 miles on the odometer now and have zero smoke. I run with Fram filters (the $10 model). For what it's worth, I researched the whole oil issue awhile back and found that Mobil 1 and Redline had statistically similar performance.
Oh, I forgot to mention the key point, I change my oil about once per year. In my case this is about every 28,000 miles.
[Modified by LTD, 9:46 PM 4/11/2003]
Oh, I forgot to mention the key point, I change my oil about once per year. In my case this is about every 28,000 miles.
[Modified by LTD, 9:46 PM 4/11/2003]
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Advanced
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Vallejo CA
Re: Mobile One weight (LTD)
The W stands for Winter and is a reflection of the oils viscosity at very low temperatures.
If the weather is warm out, the first number is moot.
Both share the same high temp viscosity and would be equal in that event.
If the weather is warm use what's on the shelf.
I recommend sticking with the same grade.
There is no reason to use thicker oil on an older engine unless it has been heavily abused or neglected.
Take a look at some oil information from the manufacturers like Valvoline, Mobil 1 or other major oil companies.
Their websites can offer some good information in this regard.
EWill
If the weather is warm out, the first number is moot.
Both share the same high temp viscosity and would be equal in that event.
If the weather is warm use what's on the shelf.
I recommend sticking with the same grade.
There is no reason to use thicker oil on an older engine unless it has been heavily abused or neglected.
Take a look at some oil information from the manufacturers like Valvoline, Mobil 1 or other major oil companies.
Their websites can offer some good information in this regard.
EWill
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12
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From: San Diego CA
Re: Mobile One weight (brucelee)
Thanks for all the input. Given what has been written, would not it be better to run either:
Mobil One 0W-40 Europeon Formula
or
Castrol Syntec 5W-50
What do you think? Oh yes, I am planning oil changes every 5K miles. Thoughts on that?
Lastly, did you guys ever change the fluid in the auto trans? If so, did you use Mobil One ATF there?
Thanks
Mobil One 0W-40 Europeon Formula
or
Castrol Syntec 5W-50
What do you think? Oh yes, I am planning oil changes every 5K miles. Thoughts on that?
Lastly, did you guys ever change the fluid in the auto trans? If so, did you use Mobil One ATF there?
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,426
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From: Canton Michigan
Re: Mobile One weight (MANNY)
I don't know why you don't use the oil that is recommended for your car.
Isn't the recommended oil viscosity designed around the tolerences of the engine?
60K miles on my '99 vert and still using 5W30 Mobil 1, which is changed every 3000 miles. No burning and no noise cold or hot.
Isn't the recommended oil viscosity designed around the tolerences of the engine?
60K miles on my '99 vert and still using 5W30 Mobil 1, which is changed every 3000 miles. No burning and no noise cold or hot.
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Re: Mobile One weight (brucelee)
Personally I would continue to use the 5W30 recommended for the car.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Re: Mobile One weight (MANNY)
0W-30 has better high temperature viscosity then either the 5W-30 or the 10W-30.
That is not so at all.
0W30
5W30
10W30...
they all have the same viscosity and capabilities when the engine is hot.
That is not so at all.
0W30
5W30
10W30...
they all have the same viscosity and capabilities when the engine is hot.
Viscosity at 100 degrees C
0W-30 = 10.3
5W-30 = 10
10W-30 = 10
While true they all fall in the 30 range at 100 degrees C, the 0W-30 is slightly higher. Contrast this to Amsoil which is:
Viscosity at 100 degrees C
5W-30 = 11.7
10W-30 = 11.9
The range for 30 weight is 9.3 - 12.49, so you can see that the Mobil-1 products are low in the range while other oils are high in the range. I prefer to stay higher in the viscosity range for a 30 weight oil.
[Modified by vettenuts, 5:08 PM 4/13/2003]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Grants Pass OR
Re: Mobile One weight (brucelee)
May I add something?
80% of all engine wear happens in the first thirty seconds your engine runs each day. :yesnod: In other words, when the engine is cold. The engine oil expert who said this suggested 100,000 miles can be added to any engines life by waiting 30 seconds after the first startup each day. It give the engine a change to lubricate itself and burn off any condensation before departure.
This same expert pointed out that Synthetic oil drains off the engine faster than a conventional oil. If you are parking your car for more than three months, you might try lubricating the upper cylinder by turning the engine off at 1,500 rpms and letting the pistons lubricate the upper cylinders before coming to a stop. Aircraft engines need to be cranked over without starting every 90 days.
This same expert suggested that oil be changed every 5,000 miles. I say pull the dip stick and check the oils color. When it's getting hard to see the stick, it's time to change the oil.
Synthetic oil is best in very hot or very cold climates or when an engine is designed to run on a specific oil like the LS1/LS6.
I am staying with Mobil One 5 w 30. :yesnod:
80% of all engine wear happens in the first thirty seconds your engine runs each day. :yesnod: In other words, when the engine is cold. The engine oil expert who said this suggested 100,000 miles can be added to any engines life by waiting 30 seconds after the first startup each day. It give the engine a change to lubricate itself and burn off any condensation before departure.
This same expert pointed out that Synthetic oil drains off the engine faster than a conventional oil. If you are parking your car for more than three months, you might try lubricating the upper cylinder by turning the engine off at 1,500 rpms and letting the pistons lubricate the upper cylinders before coming to a stop. Aircraft engines need to be cranked over without starting every 90 days.
This same expert suggested that oil be changed every 5,000 miles. I say pull the dip stick and check the oils color. When it's getting hard to see the stick, it's time to change the oil.
Synthetic oil is best in very hot or very cold climates or when an engine is designed to run on a specific oil like the LS1/LS6.
I am staying with Mobil One 5 w 30. :yesnod:
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Re: Mobile One weight (VETFVER)
Actually, I read an interesting article the other day that looked at wear and it's potential sources. While cold start was mentioned, more interesting was the discussion on "jack rabbit" starts from a red light or stop sign. When sitting with an automatic, you RPM's are down and oil pressure is low. When the light turns green and you jump on the gas, the engine comes under immediate high loading and yet the RPM's haven't recovered enough to develop the necessary oil pressure so you increase wear on the bearings.
