ls1 rebuild
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
Likes: 18
From: TX
ls1 rebuild
My Ls1 inhaled a gulp of water last week and after drying the cylinders out there is still a knock so I think a rebuild is the way to go. I have a budget of 3500. Any thought on if this would be enough and if so would that leave any room for more power. Maybe some porting or replacing the cam or anything else. I as anyone else just want the most power for my money so any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am currently in The Dallas area if anyone has any suggestons on which shops to go through. After the instant sonofa #$%$% etc... I'm trying to stay positive so please help me turn lemons into lemonaid.
Drifting
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 1
From: cAshburn VA
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
My condolences, man that sucks. I just had to have my heads replaced, and had to sell alot of my other little toys to do it. You are on the right track though, turn this into something good! I ended up doing LS6 heads, TPIS headers and 1.85 rockers while I was having it fixed, cost me maybe about $2k more than just replacing everything stock, but I picked up half a second in the quarter mile. She feels like a whole new car!
So no real advice on what to do except, squeeze EVERYTHING you can into the budget while you are in there, and asking here is always a good idea.
Maybe a 383 stroker? At least use as many LS6 parts for replacement as you can, they cost the same, or just a little more, and most everything fits.
Good luck and let us know how it goes! :thumbs:
So no real advice on what to do except, squeeze EVERYTHING you can into the budget while you are in there, and asking here is always a good idea.
Maybe a 383 stroker? At least use as many LS6 parts for replacement as you can, they cost the same, or just a little more, and most everything fits.
Good luck and let us know how it goes! :thumbs:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: DFW tx
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
I feel for you, that really sucks. Your first step should be to find out what is wrong with the engine. Hopefully it is just the top end that is damaged. It would be a shame to pump money into new heads, cam, etc., then to find out it is the bottom end that is messed up. Have you pulled the valve covers to look for any obvious signs of damage? It may just be something simple like a bent pushrod.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, you should be able to get a set of stage 2 heads, cam, pushrods, etc. within your budget of 3,500. If you go to a tuner, you can expect to pay anywhere from 5k to 8k depending where you go and what parts you go with.
If you plan on doing the work yourself, you should be able to get a set of stage 2 heads, cam, pushrods, etc. within your budget of 3,500. If you go to a tuner, you can expect to pay anywhere from 5k to 8k depending where you go and what parts you go with.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 37,329
Likes: 12
From: Plano Texas
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
CI-VI Car Show Winner
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
Vetteman21,
Give John Page (21st Century @ 972 4147 7177) a call, and find out what it is that 'broke' (top or bottom end).
John may have an engine or two laying around, and could assist with a quick fix for you.
Also, if you need to replace the engine, he can assist with a TT or SC!!!! :smash:
Give John Page (21st Century @ 972 4147 7177) a call, and find out what it is that 'broke' (top or bottom end).
John may have an engine or two laying around, and could assist with a quick fix for you.
Also, if you need to replace the engine, he can assist with a TT or SC!!!! :smash:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,049
Likes: 1
From: kansas city MO
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
you'd be better off looking for a used LS1/LS6 if time is not an issue, I've frequently seen them in the for sale section.
Just to give you an idea of how much it cost, removing & reinstall engine $1200, tear down block & reassembly $600, balancing $250 etc...
I just got done w/ forging my bottom end, would not do it again. :nonod:
Just to give you an idea of how much it cost, removing & reinstall engine $1200, tear down block & reassembly $600, balancing $250 etc...
I just got done w/ forging my bottom end, would not do it again. :nonod:
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
Likes: 18
From: TX
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
Wow, thanks for all the replies. This is all good info and I will check all avenues. No rush on the fix.
About the question of insurance covering it I could only afford liability to get my dream ride. I quit my job 2 months ago to go back to school and am on a tight budget. Great timing eh?
And a reply to if Ive looked under the valve covers, the car is at the dealership. It wouldnt start. They dried out the cylinders and the sensors, got it to start, to find the knock. I spoke to a weekend rep who couldnt give me all the details on why I need a new motor according to their notes so I will know more monday when I can speak to the rep directly working with me.
Again thanks for the support. :thumbs:
About the question of insurance covering it I could only afford liability to get my dream ride. I quit my job 2 months ago to go back to school and am on a tight budget. Great timing eh?
And a reply to if Ive looked under the valve covers, the car is at the dealership. It wouldnt start. They dried out the cylinders and the sensors, got it to start, to find the knock. I spoke to a weekend rep who couldnt give me all the details on why I need a new motor according to their notes so I will know more monday when I can speak to the rep directly working with me.
Again thanks for the support. :thumbs:
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
Likes: 18
From: TX
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
AC54ME, could you please give me the number of John Paige again. Looks like there was a typo and I want to look into it.
I spoke to the dealer this morning. He is advising I need an overhaul consisting of replacing crankshaft, rail baring, main baring, rings, gaskets headbolts oil and cleaning for a grand total of 5400. Then they could see if theres anything wrong with the bottom end once they get into it :banghead:
sounds like a cheap used replacement may be the way to go. Anyone think there vette get jellous. Ive had a lot of bad luck with her but only when I'm dating a certain girl :leaving:
I spoke to the dealer this morning. He is advising I need an overhaul consisting of replacing crankshaft, rail baring, main baring, rings, gaskets headbolts oil and cleaning for a grand total of 5400. Then they could see if theres anything wrong with the bottom end once they get into it :banghead:
sounds like a cheap used replacement may be the way to go. Anyone think there vette get jellous. Ive had a lot of bad luck with her but only when I'm dating a certain girl :leaving:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 4
From: Official Misfit Cooler Owner
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
Step 1 is to get your car as quick as possible away from dealer. Then find one of the forum vendors to help you out. There are several great shops in your area.
For the $5400 range you could get a LS6. The dealers are crazy. :eek:
For the $5400 range you could get a LS6. The dealers are crazy. :eek:
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
Vetteman21
Please let us know how you injested water. Was it contributed to using a bottom breather or did you go through a D E E P puddel?
Man I sorry you had to to go through all of this. Are you out of warrenty??
Bill Curlee
Please let us know how you injested water. Was it contributed to using a bottom breather or did you go through a D E E P puddel?
Man I sorry you had to to go through all of this. Are you out of warrenty??
Bill Curlee
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 21,365
Likes: 998
From: Various places in Southern California.
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
I spoke to the dealer this morning. He is advising I need an overhaul consisting of replacing crankshaft, rail baring, main baring, rings, gaskets headbolts oil and cleaning for a grand total of 5400. Then they could see if theres anything wrong with the bottom end once they get into it :banghead:
I agree, a used LS1 or LS6 is probably your best bet.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 8,145
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton FLORIDA
Re: ls1 rebuild (Bill Curlee)
I'm a little confused here....water ingestion is a insurance related claim and all (minus deductable) should be covered by your auto ins....whay not file a claim? Dealer has already documented it all it appears, should be easy.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
I would recommend just get a used engine, swap in a mild cam and put it in the car. $3500 should get you there no problem.
Then spend the next few months/years/century build up the broken motor in to a monster :reddevil
Then spend the next few months/years/century build up the broken motor in to a monster :reddevil
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 21,365
Likes: 998
From: Various places in Southern California.
Re: ls1 rebuild (TLewis4095)
I'm a little confused here....water ingestion is a insurance related claim and all (minus deductable) should be covered by your auto ins....whay not file a claim? Dealer has already documented it all it appears, should be easy.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
Likes: 18
From: TX
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
Can someone tell me where the rear knock sensor is? I found an old quote I had emailed myself back in november and archived. I'm going to try it out tomarrow.
"Audible Spark Knock (detonation) TSB #02-06-04-023 (not only the LS1, but also 99-2002 Pickups and utility models with 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0L motors)
(park knock). worse on acceleration. Cause: corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity (another reason for not squirting your motor down with a hose like some think its ok to do) In fact, the bulletin mentions "this condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment". Correction: replace rear bank knock sensor and build a "dam" around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. (swell........ make a "puddy dam".... that's high tech eh?_" part no. for the sensor is 10456603 "
due to my engine aquiring a knock from water in the bay, I suspect this could be a fix. Might as well try it!
"Audible Spark Knock (detonation) TSB #02-06-04-023 (not only the LS1, but also 99-2002 Pickups and utility models with 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0L motors)
(park knock). worse on acceleration. Cause: corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity (another reason for not squirting your motor down with a hose like some think its ok to do) In fact, the bulletin mentions "this condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment". Correction: replace rear bank knock sensor and build a "dam" around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. (swell........ make a "puddy dam".... that's high tech eh?_" part no. for the sensor is 10456603 "
due to my engine aquiring a knock from water in the bay, I suspect this could be a fix. Might as well try it!
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Keller Texas
Re: ls1 rebuild (vetteman21)
There are two of them they are mounted on the valley cover under the intake manifold.
Can someone tell me where the rear knock sensor is? I found an old quote I had emailed myself back in november and archived. I'm going to try it out tomarrow.
"Audible Spark Knock (detonation) TSB #02-06-04-023 (not only the LS1, but also 99-2002 Pickups and utility models with 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0L motors)
(park knock). worse on acceleration. Cause: corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity (another reason for not squirting your motor down with a hose like some think its ok to do) In fact, the bulletin mentions "this condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment". Correction: replace rear bank knock sensor and build a "dam" around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. (swell........ make a "puddy dam".... that's high tech eh?_" part no. for the sensor is 10456603 "
due to my engine aquiring a knock from water in the bay, I suspect this could be a fix. Might as well try it!
"Audible Spark Knock (detonation) TSB #02-06-04-023 (not only the LS1, but also 99-2002 Pickups and utility models with 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0L motors)
(park knock). worse on acceleration. Cause: corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity (another reason for not squirting your motor down with a hose like some think its ok to do) In fact, the bulletin mentions "this condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment". Correction: replace rear bank knock sensor and build a "dam" around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. (swell........ make a "puddy dam".... that's high tech eh?_" part no. for the sensor is 10456603 "
due to my engine aquiring a knock from water in the bay, I suspect this could be a fix. Might as well try it!
