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Changing rear pads

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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 04:36 PM
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Default Changing rear pads

I have a tactical question. I've changed mine twice now and have found I have to remove the bolts for the guidepins both on top and bottom. With the caliper loose I find I don't have enough hands to use a c-clamp to easily depress the piston. I have to hold the caliper, screw the clamp and I've been using the old pad between the clamp and piston. I'm able to do it, but it is really clumsy. Anybody have any tricks? :cheers:
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (kraff)

I use a scissor type pad spreader, it just wedges between the two pads and turn the screw till the caliper is compressed
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 07:35 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (simplyred02)

Remove only the top caliper pin guide bolt and rotate the caliper over enough to remove the outer pad. Then install your c-clamp and compress the piston using the old inner pad. HTH

Robert


[Modified by LoneStarFRC, 6:35 PM 4/29/2004]
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 07:49 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (kraff)

I have a tactical question. I've changed mine twice now and have found I have to remove the bolts for the guidepins both on top and bottom. With the caliper loose I find I don't have enough hands to use a c-clamp to easily depress the piston. I have to hold the caliper, screw the clamp and I've been using the old pad between the clamp and piston. I'm able to do it, but it is really clumsy. Anybody have any tricks? :cheers:
Couple of things you might want to consider. Those calper pin bolts are supposed to be replaced (according to the manual) or at least, have new loctite put on them.

Also you need to pull those pins on a fairly regular basis on regrease them. I can't tell you how many times I have helped somebdy with their brakes and those pins are dry and starting to bind. That causes premature pad wear and can feel like the rotors are warped!


Click to enlarge:






[Modified by Richin Chicago, 6:51 PM 4/29/2004]
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 08:09 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (Richin Chicago)

I have a tactical question. I've changed mine twice now and have found I have to remove the bolts for the guidepins both on top and bottom. With the caliper loose I find I don't have enough hands to use a c-clamp to easily depress the piston. I have to hold the caliper, screw the clamp and I've been using the old pad between the clamp and piston. I'm able to do it, but it is really clumsy. Anybody have any tricks? :cheers:

Couple of things you might want to consider. Those calper pin bolts are supposed to be replaced (according to the manual) or at least, have new loctite put on them.

Also you need to pull those pins on a fairly regular basis on regrease them. I can't tell you how many times I have helped somebdy with their brakes and those pins are dry and starting to bind. That causes premature pad wear and can feel like the rotors are warped!


Click to enlarge:

Good point. After I replaced my pads and clips, etc. I slid the caliper off the lower guide pin, and while holding the caliper in one hand, I wiped down the caliper pin itself and glob on some fresh caliper pin grease. Slide the caliper back onto the lower pin, make sure the small dust boot is back in the groove and rotate the caliper back into position over the rotor. No need to remove the lower caliper guide pin at all unless it has been dried out or has worn places on it that you can see or feel. Grease up the upper pin and just replace the one bolt (that came with the Delco pads).

Robert :)
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 09:04 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (LoneStarFRC)

I use large channellocks to compress the pistons. :cheers:
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (Slickk.)

Is the brake lube that comes with the pads to grease those pins :confused:

I always throw it out... i've done a number of brake jobs and never saw a single piece of information in print about that silly tube of grease.

:bb
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 10:55 PM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (kraff)

Don't forget to open the bleeder screw a little...it makes it a lot easier...
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 12:21 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (kraff)

I use the clamp before I loosen the caliper. No need for additional compression once I am at the pads.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 12:23 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (George8211)

Is the brake lube that comes with the pads to grease those pins :confused:

I always throw it out... i've done a number of brake jobs and never saw a single piece of information in print about that silly tube of grease.

:bb
How often do those pins need to be greased?
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 12:50 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (kraff)

After removing the caliper hang it from the shock/suspension with some bungie cord(s), that way your hands are free. :thumbs:

David
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 12:52 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (George8211)

Is the brake lube that comes with the pads to grease those pins :confused:

I always throw it out... i've done a number of brake jobs and never saw a single piece of information in print about that silly tube of grease.

:bb
Remind me not to let you do my brakes! J/K :jester

The front pins typically need to be greased more often than the rear, simply because of the additional heat / wear and tear.

I replaced my pads at 15K (no, they didn't "need" to be replaced), and the rear pins had plenty of grease, but the fronts didn’t look as good. Of course, I greased the heck out of both ends. :smash: :cheers:

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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 12:53 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (TooManyIDs)

I thought the extra grease was to put on the clips to keep them from ever rattling.


[Modified by ScreaminDemon, 11:56 PM 4/29/2004]
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 01:14 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (ScreaminDemon)

Well, I guess it depends.. My guess is what you were supplied with is anti-squeal compound, which would (potentially) go on the back of the pad.. The pin grease is something different.


[Modified by Dan_the_C5_Man, 12:15 AM 4/30/2004]
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 05:53 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (Dan_the_C5_Man)

Well, I guess it depends.. My guess is what you were supplied with is anti-squeal compound, which would (potentially) go on the back of the pad.. The pin grease is something different.
No, the grease that comes with the GM pads is for the pins. It is a white silicone grease. There is a stick on shim for anti-squeal that also comes with the pads.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:33 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (TooManyIDs)

Is the brake lube that comes with the pads to grease those pins :confused:

I always throw it out... i've done a number of brake jobs and never saw a single piece of information in print about that silly tube of grease.

:bb

How often do those pins need to be greased?
Everytime you do the pads and you need to do both pins.

I don't buy pads that come with the grease so I just buy a tube of synthetic caliper grease at the parts store. One tube will last a long time. Here is an example. http://www.gunk.com/oe2.asp?pic=L603

Also, as stated before, I beleive you must, at least, reapply loctite to the bolts everytime also. GM says use new bolts. You are only suppose to torque these to 23 ft lbs.




[Modified by Richin Chicago, 5:34 AM 4/30/2004]
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 08:51 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (TooManyIDs)

Al,

Esp. with the running you do out at MSR, I'd check them every time you swap your pads. Look for dry or caked deposits on the pins. If you do decide to re-lube them, I like to take a paper towel and try to clean out the inside of the guide pin "socket" on the caliper bracket. I get my lube at Autozone, just a couple of bucks that'll last you a LONG time.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 09:07 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (VetteDrmr)

Al, Esp. with the running you do out at MSR, I'd check them every time you swap your pads....Mike
That would be way too often, have been playing with pads lately. :lol:

If the grease is affected by the extra heat, I agree then it's worth a look. If it's something that is just going to last a certain amount of time, then I wonder if mine should be OK at 2 years of age and 11K miles?

Certainly no binding or release problems so far.

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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 09:11 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (TooManyIDs)

Al, Esp. with the running you do out at MSR, I'd check them every time you swap your pads....Mike

That would be way too often, have been playing with pads lately. :lol:

If the grease is affected by the extra heat, I agree then it's worth a look. If it's something that is just going to last a certain amount of time, then I wonder if mine should be OK at 2 years of age and 11K miles?

Certainly no binding or release problems so far.
But why take a chance? You already have it apart and it only takes another 5 minutes.

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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 09:22 AM
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Default Re: Changing rear pads (Richin Chicago)

But why take a chance? You already have it apart and it only takes another 5 minutes.
Agreed, but it's not apart anymore. I'm with George8211, didn't know what it was for. Went back to my service manual and didn't see it mentioned there either, so it's sitting on the work bench.

At least I didn't throw it away. :lolg:
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