When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a tactical question. I've changed mine twice now and have found I have to remove the bolts for the guidepins both on top and bottom. With the caliper loose I find I don't have enough hands to use a c-clamp to easily depress the piston. I have to hold the caliper, screw the clamp and I've been using the old pad between the clamp and piston. I'm able to do it, but it is really clumsy. Anybody have any tricks? :cheers:
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Re: Changing rear pads (simplyred02)
Remove only the top caliper pin guide bolt and rotate the caliper over enough to remove the outer pad. Then install your c-clamp and compress the piston using the old inner pad. HTH
I have a tactical question. I've changed mine twice now and have found I have to remove the bolts for the guidepins both on top and bottom. With the caliper loose I find I don't have enough hands to use a c-clamp to easily depress the piston. I have to hold the caliper, screw the clamp and I've been using the old pad between the clamp and piston. I'm able to do it, but it is really clumsy. Anybody have any tricks? :cheers:
Couple of things you might want to consider. Those calper pin bolts are supposed to be replaced (according to the manual) or at least, have new loctite put on them.
Also you need to pull those pins on a fairly regular basis on regrease them. I can't tell you how many times I have helped somebdy with their brakes and those pins are dry and starting to bind. That causes premature pad wear and can feel like the rotors are warped!
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Re: Changing rear pads (Richin Chicago)
I have a tactical question. I've changed mine twice now and have found I have to remove the bolts for the guidepins both on top and bottom. With the caliper loose I find I don't have enough hands to use a c-clamp to easily depress the piston. I have to hold the caliper, screw the clamp and I've been using the old pad between the clamp and piston. I'm able to do it, but it is really clumsy. Anybody have any tricks? :cheers:
Couple of things you might want to consider. Those calper pin bolts are supposed to be replaced (according to the manual) or at least, have new loctite put on them.
Also you need to pull those pins on a fairly regular basis on regrease them. I can't tell you how many times I have helped somebdy with their brakes and those pins are dry and starting to bind. That causes premature pad wear and can feel like the rotors are warped!
Click to enlarge:
Good point. After I replaced my pads and clips, etc. I slid the caliper off the lower guide pin, and while holding the caliper in one hand, I wiped down the caliper pin itself and glob on some fresh caliper pin grease. Slide the caliper back onto the lower pin, make sure the small dust boot is back in the groove and rotate the caliper back into position over the rotor. No need to remove the lower caliper guide pin at all unless it has been dried out or has worn places on it that you can see or feel. Grease up the upper pin and just replace the one bolt (that came with the Delco pads).
Is the brake lube that comes with the pads to grease those pins :confused:
I always throw it out... i've done a number of brake jobs and never saw a single piece of information in print about that silly tube of grease.
:bb
Remind me not to let you do my brakes! J/K :jester
The front pins typically need to be greased more often than the rear, simply because of the additional heat / wear and tear.
I replaced my pads at 15K (no, they didn't "need" to be replaced), and the rear pins had plenty of grease, but the fronts didn’t look as good. Of course, I greased the heck out of both ends. :smash: :cheers:
Well, I guess it depends.. My guess is what you were supplied with is anti-squeal compound, which would (potentially) go on the back of the pad.. The pin grease is something different.
Well, I guess it depends.. My guess is what you were supplied with is anti-squeal compound, which would (potentially) go on the back of the pad.. The pin grease is something different.
No, the grease that comes with the GM pads is for the pins. It is a white silicone grease. There is a stick on shim for anti-squeal that also comes with the pads.
Is the brake lube that comes with the pads to grease those pins :confused:
I always throw it out... i've done a number of brake jobs and never saw a single piece of information in print about that silly tube of grease.
:bb
How often do those pins need to be greased?
Everytime you do the pads and you need to do both pins.
I don't buy pads that come with the grease so I just buy a tube of synthetic caliper grease at the parts store. One tube will last a long time. Here is an example. http://www.gunk.com/oe2.asp?pic=L603
Also, as stated before, I beleive you must, at least, reapply loctite to the bolts everytime also. GM says use new bolts. You are only suppose to torque these to 23 ft lbs.
Esp. with the running you do out at MSR, I'd check them every time you swap your pads. Look for dry or caked deposits on the pins. If you do decide to re-lube them, I like to take a paper towel and try to clean out the inside of the guide pin "socket" on the caliper bracket. I get my lube at Autozone, just a couple of bucks that'll last you a LONG time.
Al, Esp. with the running you do out at MSR, I'd check them every time you swap your pads....Mike
That would be way too often, have been playing with pads lately. :lol:
If the grease is affected by the extra heat, I agree then it's worth a look. If it's something that is just going to last a certain amount of time, then I wonder if mine should be OK at 2 years of age and 11K miles?
Al, Esp. with the running you do out at MSR, I'd check them every time you swap your pads....Mike
That would be way too often, have been playing with pads lately. :lol:
If the grease is affected by the extra heat, I agree then it's worth a look. If it's something that is just going to last a certain amount of time, then I wonder if mine should be OK at 2 years of age and 11K miles?
Certainly no binding or release problems so far.
But why take a chance? You already have it apart and it only takes another 5 minutes.
But why take a chance? You already have it apart and it only takes another 5 minutes.
Agreed, but it's not apart anymore. I'm with George8211, didn't know what it was for. Went back to my service manual and didn't see it mentioned there either, so it's sitting on the work bench.