Okay, so tonight on the way home from work it happened again, first I only got the Traction Control/ ABS/ Engine Reduced Power, but I still had throttle control. I made one stop on the way home and it cleared up when I started the car again. Then, just before I got home it happened again, the TC/ABS/RDP and I lost throttle control. Like the other day, I shut the car off while in motion and restarted and still had the same situation. I did this a number of times and each time when I restarted the car the throttle was still stuck in about the same place as when the trouble started. I finally shut the car off and removed the key, still while driving down the road (had no chioce) then restarted the car and regained throttle control. The codes are as follows: P0410 (secondary air injection system malfunction, P1221 (TP Sensor 1, 2 Performance), P1415 (Air System Bank 1),and P1515 (Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (PCM) ).
Still have some grounds to check, only did the ones on the drivers side under the hood so far. I am at a loss as to where to go from here. Again, any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks

 

Okay, so tonight on the way home from work it happened again, first I only got the Traction Control/ ABS/ Engine Reduced Power, but I still had throttle control. I made one stop on the way home and it cleared up when I started the car again. Then, just before I got home it happened again, the TC/ABS/RDP and I lost throttle control. Like the other day, I shut the car off while in motion and restarted and still had the same situation. I did this a number of times and each time when I restarted the car the throttle was still stuck in about the same place as when the trouble started. I finally shut the car off and removed the key, still while driving down the road (had no chioce) then restarted the car and regained throttle control. The codes are as follows: P0410 (secondary air injection system malfunction, P1221 (TP Sensor 1, 2 Performance), P1415 (Air System Bank 1),and P1515 (Command vs Actual Throttle Position Performance (PCM) ).
Still have some grounds to check, only did the ones on the drivers side under the hood so far. I am at a loss as to where to go from here. Again, any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks

 

Grounds are not your issue!! The throttle issues are the FIRST thing that you need to clear up.

Follow the wire harness on the drivers side of the intake manifold to where it bends around the black bracket at the rear of the fuel rail and see if the harness is chaffed or cut.

Sounds like the throttle wires are shorting out on that bracket. Common issue.

Bill

 

I have been reading through so many of these posts, and I am really confused... 2000 Convertible, AT, Active Handling and Electronic Adj Ride control... bought car w/ 94k on ticker and while driving home from the "dealer" the car suddenly veers to the right for a split second and the TC light comes on and the screen reads "Service Active Handling System"... I pull the codes: 28 TCS C1282H YAW RATE SENSOR BIAS CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
C1284H LATERAL ACCELEROMETER SENSOR SELF TEST MALFUNCTION
C1285H ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 3 CIRCUIT

A1 RDCM U1064H

RFA U1096H LOSS OF COMMUNICATION WITH IPC
U1064H LOSS OF COMMUNICATION WITH BCM
U1016H LOSS OF COMMUNICATION WITH PCM
C2100H LF TPM SENSOR MALFUNCTION
C2105H RF TPM SENSOR MALFUNCTION
C2110H RR TPM SENSOR MALFUNCTION
and promptly take it to my local mechanic (an awesome guy who has done all of my non-warranty work for 15 years, and has a sterling reputation and is a third generation local wrench) he clears the codes and has me drive it to see if it happens again and if so, what the codes are... well 1/2 mile down the road (just cruising at 50 mph) it happens again with the same codes... he determines that the problem is and we should replace the yaw rate sensor and the accelerometer, so we do... back out on the road and the same thing happens again... I push the TC button and the car runs fine... shut the engine off (at work) and on the way home while leaving from a stop light (and making a LH turn) the car is shaking and grinding and making grinding noises from the rear diff area, like the diff isn't engaged... hit the TC button and all is fine as long as TC is disabled. Also, the turn signals frequently choose not to work, unless of course I hit the emergency flasher button a couple of times and then they work fine for awhile... I don't know if that is relevant to the other issue or if the flasher switch is just bad, but thought I would mention it just the same. What are your thoughts before I make a trip back to the mechanics???

 

TOO MANY CODES!

Clear all of them,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, take it for a drive ,,,,,, see what comes back.....

Pull the DTC BEFORE you turn off the ignition,,,,,,,,, & ,,,,,,,,, YES,,,, its doable.
Just do it and post the DTCs listed...

BC

 

checked the wire harness and didn't find anything so far, but have not had much time. I did find a vacuum line off though. I think when the blower was installed the wire harness was moved around some so I want to really take my time and pull the valve cover covers (lol) off and really check out all the wiring. I will keep you posted on my finding, and thank you so much for your much appreciated help.

 

Okay, so all I have had a chance to do is check out the part of the harness I can get to and moved the throttle positioner and position senser conectors around. The car had no problem for about 3 days. I washed the car and still had no trouble. Then the next day it rained still had no trouble. Then before putting the car in the garage I washed off the mud from the rain and as soon as I started it, it threw the check traction control and service antilock breaks. I pulled it into the garage and shut it off. Started it right back up and nothing... guess I should have pulled the codes prior to shutting it off. Thinking it has something to do with moisture intrusion though.

 

Ok on Saturday I had the infamous Reduced power and Service TC message and code when I started my car. (note that my car was last driven the prior thursday and sat all of Friday and has had the code in its past as shown by the DIC) I call the local bowtie dealer and asked about checking the grounds and such because I don't push the car anywhere near needing the TC to trigger. The only response I get is "we can diagnose the problem for a fee of $87." I desided to wait until my local trustworthy mechanics opened on Monday, well the battery was dead. I deside to wait until yesterday, charged it overnight. Now when I went out to get in I notice my key fob isn't working. I take the car over to my guys (the check engine light was no longer on) and they spent a couple hours looking at anything that comes to mind. The battery (Optima Red Top, age is unknown) was holding its charge and was working just fine, they said the grounds were fine and they could not get the battery to drain no matter what they did. Diagnosis, the battery is fine but something drained it in a span of 2-3 days. Well I replaced my key fob battery last night and sync'd it. It is set so the horn honks when locked (I don't know if thats standard or even worth mentioning) well get home today, back into the garage, get out and lock it. I get the honk, I hear the doors lock, all is good. I start to walk away and I hear the locks shifting and the horn honks again. I didn't touch the key fob at all. I unlocked it then locked it, its all good again. I start to walk away and "honk". I switched the passive switch on the fob to on and then back to off (it wasn't working and I don't know if it ever has) then I held the lock and unlock buttons down while next to the car. I unlocked it then locked it. Got the honk when I locked it and didn't dare test it again. It seems like it is fine now. I guess my question is, do you think these events are related in any way and could the lock and unlock "system?" be activating and draining my car's battery?

Sorry for the long post, I will update as the issue/s occur or are resolved.

Update: Disregard my issue with the fob, it was the passive setting. It had come on after battery replacement and is now off and all is fine with that.

10/1 Update: No issues since, seems like the dead fob was causing the issues. Car starts fine even after sitting for the weekend.

 

Bill,

Okay, I cleared all of the codes, drove the car and waited for the AH to throw, read the codes without turning car off:

C1282C Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction
C1284C Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Self Test Malfunction
C1285C Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Circuit Malfunction
C1286C Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction
or
Steering/Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Bias Malfunction

I powered car off and back to "run" ran diagnostics, and cleared all of the codes... except C1284C will NOT erase.

Please recall that I have just replaced both the Yaw Rate Sensor and Lateral Accelerometer Sensor. Battery is good, I disassembled and cleaned the grounds to chassis.

So now what direction would you suggest I go?

Brad

 

okay, so last night when I got home the ABS/ TC message came up on the dash again, but this time it is locked in. When i started the car this morning to go to work it was still there, and again when I started it to come home. I just got the codes, but not sure how to find out what they are. I have not checked the service manuals, will do after I post this. Oh, and ever since I move the wiring harness on the left side of the motor around and played with some connections, I have not had anymore Reduced Engine Power messages and no more throttle sticking... not so happy about that as I am sure one day it will be back. Anyway these are the codes it displayed:
28- TCS: C1214HC, C1278H and C1293H
60-IPC: U1255H
no codes came up on my OBD ll code reader.
Any suggestions? Thanks

 

I've been having issues with my security dash light coming on at random times, and on rare occasions, the car won't start, but then starts right up if I wait for about ten minutes. I'm hoping my problem is the ground. Either way, couldn't hurt to clean that stuff up on a daily driver!

 

Having a problem with my headlight switch. the lights stopped working so i did the switch repair i found in the forum. The lights worked fine for a few months but now are dead again. pulling the switch this time did nothing. Is there something else to look at? Would a ground be bad? if so which one. Thx.

 

I could guess ad say YES,, the ground is the issue but,,, I would most likely be wrong.

When you say "THE LIGHTS STOP WORKING" ,, What does that include?

Buckets dont raise/lower?
Headlight dont light?

Heads light buckets raise but the headlights dont light?

The very first thing that I recommend is to look at the service manual schematic.

Find the fuses for the headlights and motors and check them. Check the voltage at the fuses whe they are operated. There are TEST POINTS on top of each fuse.

You can unplug the connectors, figure out what one is the ground wires and do a continuity test to chassis ground.

I hate guessing.

 

Thank you soooo much for the wire diagrams. I should have been more specific, the buckets don't rise and no lights, everything else is fine (tail, turns, dash). The motors work when I jump the wires. put them up manually and they power down when the battery is re-connected (switch off). Is there another fuse panel? My relay 44 is labeled cooling fan 3.(not ALC HDLP) I'm going to make the ground repair to one lug ASAP with G101 & G102. Thxs again.

 

Bill - if your checking this post I'd appreciate your thoughts.

1999 FRC
Have a seemingly intermittent electrical gremlin. Sometimes car will be fine for days and then some mornings the battery has drained to the point it won't start.
Battery - checked
Alternator - checked
Drain Test - Advance Auto found nothing - but as it's intermittent I'm not surprised.
No Codes are showing up

I did drain test last night and if I'm reading the meter right it's at 104 milliamps. This was the reading after 30 minutes and also 2 hours later.

Car started fine this morning.

I'm beining to think it's the starter motor or solenoid.

I'd really appreciate your thoughts.

 

Same problem here. I've been through three batteries in a year.

 

Lets try this. Find the battery 12 VDC main feed on the under hood fuse box:

The STUD is the feed for the under hood fuse box. One wire is the main supply from the battery and the other is the feed wire to the Passenger Foot Well Fuse Box.



Remove the nut from the stud and remove the power wires from the stud. TEMPORARILY connect the two wires together. Use a nut and bolt so that the battery is powering up the foot well fuse box.

NOTE!!! MAKE SURE that the battery is disconnected before you work on an always HOT circuit. 650 amps is NOT very forgiving!!!

Now the engine compartment fuse box and ALL of its loads are isolated from the circuit. The ONLY thing that is still connected to the battery in the engine bay is the starter solenoid and the alternator!

Reconnect the AMP Meter to the negative side and see if you still have excessive current draw after the 12 min wait.

BC

 

Thanks so much Bill - I will try this tonight.

 

Bill - thanks again for all your help. I plan on trying your suggestions this weekend.

In preparation for this I did charge the battery - using a nice new/modern charger with an AGM/Gel setting.

Last night with the negative cable disconnected it got fully charged. I then measured 12.25 volts using the multimeter. This morning it had dropped to 12.03 volts.

As the negative cable is not connected am i crazy to think it's the battery causing my problems - even though Advanced Auto say it's fine?

 

Okay - got home and the disconnected battery is still at 12.03 volts - so I guess battery is probably ok.

I did what Bill suggested above. Before reading was 1.04 mA - and reads the same 1.04 mA after I disconnect the fuse box.

I think I'm now reading the meter correctly in that 1.04 mA is 104 milliamps.

When I change it to just A it shows 0.104

So does this mean its the starter solenoid or the alternator is the cause of my drain?

Should I disconnect each one it see if it changes my reading?

Thanks again for your help.