you did a great job!!! thank you for the time
IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 416
Likes: 27
From: Roberts WI
Well i got a bunch of codes the other day, more so than ive had when the code comes up normally. I have had an occasional problem with the service traction control active handling,abs code coming up and now i have even more and they wont shut off when i reset them. Also when the tires spin for more than a second or two it goes into reduced power mode. So heres what i have from holding the options botton and hitting the other button 4 times and going into the computer,PCM- P1153,TCS-C1226,C1223C1255, BO-RFA-1096,1064,1016. I know what the pcm is and the tcs but what the heck is the BO-RFA ??? So my traction cotrol-active handling-abs is acting crazy the code will now not go away at all and have no idea as to where to start to do and possibly replace. So can anyone HELP !!!!
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville MD
Originally Posted by mowrey96
The new intake did not solve the problem.
Recap:
IAT sensor, plug, and wires replaced.
Intake replaced.
No sensors reading improperly when backfiring occurs.
backfires in open and closed loop.
Backfires intermittently under load, but on occasion when coasting at idle.
Owner frustrated.
Any ideas?
Recap:
IAT sensor, plug, and wires replaced.
Intake replaced.
No sensors reading improperly when backfiring occurs.
backfires in open and closed loop.
Backfires intermittently under load, but on occasion when coasting at idle.
Owner frustrated.
Any ideas?
Plug wire #7 rubbing against header!!!!!!!
Well, glad we figured it out.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,798
Likes: 0
From: Hattiesburg MS
Seems like a lot of folks are getting help in this thread with their electrical issues, so I guess I'll give it a shot as well.
2001 Auto - Not starting
Replaced battery, tested wires on Theft deterrent relay and found that the purple wire is not getting power when the key is turned. Further testing revealed that the yellow/black wire is not grounding when the key is turned to crank. I did run a jumper wire to a true ground and the car did crank and run. I drove it around to my shop and out of the garage so I could park the C4 in there while I was driving it. There are no codes or dash messages. Anybody know what the BCM reads to ground this wire to the theft deterrent relay? What steps should I take next?
Everything I have tried is outlined in this thread as well http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1402752
I hate dealing with service departments but did call the local Chevy dealer to see if they could bench test the BCM and got a no. They can have me drop the car off and in a week they will have the tech look at it.
2001 Auto - Not starting
Replaced battery, tested wires on Theft deterrent relay and found that the purple wire is not getting power when the key is turned. Further testing revealed that the yellow/black wire is not grounding when the key is turned to crank. I did run a jumper wire to a true ground and the car did crank and run. I drove it around to my shop and out of the garage so I could park the C4 in there while I was driving it. There are no codes or dash messages. Anybody know what the BCM reads to ground this wire to the theft deterrent relay? What steps should I take next?
Everything I have tried is outlined in this thread as well http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1402752
I hate dealing with service departments but did call the local Chevy dealer to see if they could bench test the BCM and got a no. They can have me drop the car off and in a week they will have the tech look at it.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
[QUOTE=mayberry]Seems like a lot of folks are getting help in this thread with their electrical issues, so I guess I'll give it a shot as well.
2001 Auto - Not starting
Replaced battery, tested wires on Theft deterrent relay and found that the purple wire is not getting power when the key is turned. Further testing revealed that the yellow/black wire is not grounding when the key is turned to crank. I did run a jumper wire to a true ground and the car did crank and run. I drove it around to my shop and out of the garage so I could park the C4 in there while I was driving it. There are no codes or dash messages. Anybody know what the BCM reads to ground this wire to the theft deterrent relay? What steps should I take next?
The purple wire goes to the solenoid on the starterThe relay is working and there is power on the RED wire if you shorted out the yellow /black wire and the car started. You would have had to short out the yellow / black wire and then did the rest of the start sequence; ie. clutch, ignition key ect ect... for the car to start1
If you just shorted out the yellow/black wire and the car started, you have problems!
Connect a volt meter to the yellow wire and attempt to start the car, You should have 12 VDC on the yellow wire while you complete the start sequence.
If you can ground the yellow black wire and get the engine to start the relay socket, wire going to the BCM or the bcm is at fault.
2001 Auto - Not starting
Replaced battery, tested wires on Theft deterrent relay and found that the purple wire is not getting power when the key is turned. Further testing revealed that the yellow/black wire is not grounding when the key is turned to crank. I did run a jumper wire to a true ground and the car did crank and run. I drove it around to my shop and out of the garage so I could park the C4 in there while I was driving it. There are no codes or dash messages. Anybody know what the BCM reads to ground this wire to the theft deterrent relay? What steps should I take next?
The purple wire goes to the solenoid on the starterThe relay is working and there is power on the RED wire if you shorted out the yellow /black wire and the car started. You would have had to short out the yellow / black wire and then did the rest of the start sequence; ie. clutch, ignition key ect ect... for the car to start1
If you just shorted out the yellow/black wire and the car started, you have problems!
Connect a volt meter to the yellow wire and attempt to start the car, You should have 12 VDC on the yellow wire while you complete the start sequence.
If you can ground the yellow black wire and get the engine to start the relay socket, wire going to the BCM or the bcm is at fault.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,798
Likes: 0
From: Hattiesburg MS
The yellow wire des have 12V when attempting to complete the start sequence.
I shorted out the yellow/black wire and completed the start sequence before it cranked.
So, it looks like I need to check the wire to the BCM and hope it's bad or I'm in need of a BCM. Any possibility of this being related to a bad ground to the BCM from one of the chassis grounds?
I shorted out the yellow/black wire and completed the start sequence before it cranked.
So, it looks like I need to check the wire to the BCM and hope it's bad or I'm in need of a BCM. Any possibility of this being related to a bad ground to the BCM from one of the chassis grounds?
Cherish your Hopes...
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 13,071
Likes: 236
From: West Palm Beach FL
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07
In the first year I would have random messages pop up from time to time...
...then I began modding (excessively) and inadvertently, I believe, resolved the grounding issues...
...I am constantly removeing the wiring around many ground points and replacing them...
...StuzVette probably does have some corrosion in the plugs however that I have not checked..
...but I will now...
Thanks!
Stu
...then I began modding (excessively) and inadvertently, I believe, resolved the grounding issues...
...I am constantly removeing the wiring around many ground points and replacing them...
...StuzVette probably does have some corrosion in the plugs however that I have not checked..
...but I will now...
Thanks!
Stu
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
St. Jude Contributor
Turn Signal Out and Codes B0502, 0507 and 2482
I've been reading and learning from these posts for a long time (many thanks to Bill!)but I guess I didn't learn enough! 
My rh front turn signal lamp quit flashing for a while a couple of months back and then healed itself. Now it has stopped again and you can hear the module clicking very fast, like they usually do with a burned out bulb.
I have done the following things and it still doesn't work:
Changed bulb
Cleaned connector located about 12 inces from the bulb
Swapped relays 38 and 39 (Ithink those are the numbers) and the problem did not move.
Pulled fuze #2 under the hood and no change.
Cycled the emergency flasher many times.
Sprayed contact cleaner into the turn signal stalk area as best I could.
I have the following codes:
40-BCM:
B0502H - DRL relay circuit RH
B0507H - DRL relay circuit LH
B2482H - Backup lamp relay circuit (the backup lamps do work OK).
A6-SCM, A1-RDCM and A0-LDCM:
U1064H
Is there anything else I should try? I do have GMPP MajorGuard if that might ease the pain of going to dealer.
I should also mention that I have had P0420 for quite a while, before the signal lamp stuff started.
Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!
Bill
My rh front turn signal lamp quit flashing for a while a couple of months back and then healed itself. Now it has stopped again and you can hear the module clicking very fast, like they usually do with a burned out bulb.
I have done the following things and it still doesn't work:
Changed bulb
Cleaned connector located about 12 inces from the bulb
Swapped relays 38 and 39 (Ithink those are the numbers) and the problem did not move.
Pulled fuze #2 under the hood and no change.
Cycled the emergency flasher many times.
Sprayed contact cleaner into the turn signal stalk area as best I could.
I have the following codes:
40-BCM:
B0502H - DRL relay circuit RH
B0507H - DRL relay circuit LH
B2482H - Backup lamp relay circuit (the backup lamps do work OK).
A6-SCM, A1-RDCM and A0-LDCM:
U1064H
Is there anything else I should try? I do have GMPP MajorGuard if that might ease the pain of going to dealer.
I should also mention that I have had P0420 for quite a while, before the signal lamp stuff started.
Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!
Bill
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Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill
You may have a ground issue. Use an ohm meter and check the resistance from the ground terminal of the plug (It should be the black wire in the plug. If there are three wires, it will still be the black wire.) to the negative battery terminal. Tell me what the resistance is from there to the battery terminal. It should ne close to zero!
If you have a reading other than zero, we have some work to do!!
Bill
You may have a ground issue. Use an ohm meter and check the resistance from the ground terminal of the plug (It should be the black wire in the plug. If there are three wires, it will still be the black wire.) to the negative battery terminal. Tell me what the resistance is from there to the battery terminal. It should ne close to zero!
If you have a reading other than zero, we have some work to do!!
Bill
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
St. Jude Contributor
Thanks for the reply, Bill. I'm taking tomorow off so I'll haul out my old Radio Shack multimeter and have at it.
Which plug are you referring to? The lamp socket itself or the plug located about 12" from the socket? (These questions should give you an idea of my level of expertise, by the way... )
Bill
Which plug are you referring to? The lamp socket itself or the plug located about 12" from the socket? (These questions should give you an idea of my level of expertise, by the way...
)Bill
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The circuit grounds start at the plug then go to a ground SPLICE PACKS:
The splice pack terminates the grounds from numerous circuits into one ground wire. That wire goes to a chassis ground plug like G-101 or 102:
BC
The splice pack terminates the grounds from numerous circuits into one ground wire. That wire goes to a chassis ground plug like G-101 or 102:
BC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
St. Jude Contributor
There is/are almost zero ohms between the black terminal of the light plug and the negative terminal of the battery.
Guess that means that particular ground is OK. Ready for the next step!
Oh yes, I opened up the ground plug and it had no corrosion at all. And now the rain starts...
Guess that means that particular ground is OK. Ready for the next step!
Oh yes, I opened up the ground plug and it had no corrosion at all. And now the rain starts...
Last edited by billjax; Aug 19, 2006 at 11:15 AM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I would carefully examine the socket. Make sure that the terminals inside the socket are clean ( free of corrosion) and tight against the contacts on the bulb. Next; read the voltage on the terminals inside the socket to ground. When you turn the signal on, you should see a good strong 12 VDC signal between the terminal and ground.
BC
BC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
St. Jude Contributor
OK, finally got back in there.
In case I didn't mention it before, neither the turn signal nor the drl works on that side. Same bulb, same filament, I guess.
I got about 12V (steady) from the marker terminal and about 5-ish ('blinking") from the flasher terminal in the socket. Just for s&g, I checked the driver's side and got the same voltages. I also swapped bulbs and no change.
Ready for the next step, Bill!
In case I didn't mention it before, neither the turn signal nor the drl works on that side. Same bulb, same filament, I guess.
I got about 12V (steady) from the marker terminal and about 5-ish ('blinking") from the flasher terminal in the socket. Just for s&g, I checked the driver's side and got the same voltages. I also swapped bulbs and no change.
Ready for the next step, Bill!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Still having cluster problems
Been through all of the info in the sticky but still have all of my gauges die intermittantly. Car runs fine and everything except the gauges and dic work ok. DIC says high voltage just before they die. Checked voltage with meter at battery and alt. and it was OK 13 to 14.5. I get this high voltage if the motor is running AND when key is on position and motor OFF! Occasionally this will be a low voltage message with the same results. Checked all main grounds and battery is new. Problem seems to happen when car is hot. I am beginng to believe this is a BCM problem or a cluster problem. Only code is IPC U1160H loss of com with door module. Checked all connections there also. What is involved with changing BCM and how much $$$. Do you need a scan II to sync with PCM? I am begining to think about selling the car this has been going on for a year and nobody seem to be able to help. 
This is driving me crazy. Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. By the way this is an "03" 6 spd with 18k on the clock.
Don
This is driving me crazy. Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. By the way this is an "03" 6 spd with 18k on the clock.Don
Last edited by GRAY BEARD; Aug 27, 2006 at 05:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by billjax
OK, finally got back in there.
In case I didn't mention it before, neither the turn signal nor the drl works on that side. Same bulb, same filament, I guess.
I got about 12V (steady) from the marker terminal and about 5-ish ('blinking") from the flasher terminal in the socket. Just for s&g, I checked the driver's side and got the same voltages. I also swapped bulbs and no change.
Ready for the next step, Bill!
In case I didn't mention it before, neither the turn signal nor the drl works on that side. Same bulb, same filament, I guess.
I got about 12V (steady) from the marker terminal and about 5-ish ('blinking") from the flasher terminal in the socket. Just for s&g, I checked the driver's side and got the same voltages. I also swapped bulbs and no change.
Ready for the next step, Bill!
First, check fuse# 2 in the under hood electrical center. Check fuses# 15 & 8 in the Instrument Panel Electrical Center.
Next, press and release the Hazard Warning Switch (Emergency Flasher Button) about 20 times. All of the signals go through that switch and it commonly gets corroded and causes problems like this.
Next ,, Check relays 38 (right DRL) and Relay 40 (left DRL)
The signals and control to switch the lights from DRL to Direction signals come from the BCM!!! This allows the lamp to stay light for the DRL mode or blink in the blinker/flasher mode. If you check all the stuff above and are still having issues, we will need to take some voltage readings.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 29, 2006 at 06:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
C5wolf
Each splice pack has a single wire that runs from the splice pack to a centeral ground connector. That connector is connected to the frame, which inturn is connected to the battery via G-104/108.
I guess you could duplicate the ground path and be able to make it a little bit more fail safe. US Submarines and space ships use REDUNDANT circuits all the time. It adds a lot of extra weight!
BC
Each splice pack has a single wire that runs from the splice pack to a centeral ground connector. That connector is connected to the frame, which inturn is connected to the battery via G-104/108.
I guess you could duplicate the ground path and be able to make it a little bit more fail safe.
US Submarines and space ships use REDUNDANT circuits all the time. It adds a lot of extra weight! BC
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by NVR BRNG
Can someone help me in continuing to troubleshoot my no-start issue?
I have an '00 'Vert MN6 w/ 41k mi. So. CA warm weather / weekender car with H/C, bolt-ons & custom PCM tune, other brake & suspension mods.
Current starting problem:
On 1st turn of the key to start, the engine will start and then immediately die, as if fuel / ignition is being cut off. It takes 2-3 restarts to get the motor to fire & run. This occurs regardless if whether the car is cold or warmed up. Once the engine is running, the car runs normally. On restart, it takes 2-3 cycles to get the motor to run.
1) No Codes.
2) No DIC messages.
3) Column Lock works normally. No CLB installed.
4) Normal Battery / Charging system.
5) Cleaned Pellets on both ignition keys.
6) I have resolved all recent DIC Codes, these only related to a low voltage IAT sensor, which I Replaced.
7) I replaced the ignition switch and reused the OE lock cylinder & OE keys. I did notice that some function returned with the new switch, such as the back up lights flashing when the "lock" button on the fob was pressed. I was hoping that the switch was going to resolve the starting issues.
8) G101 & G102 grounds checked out totally clean, so I stopped there.
9) Checked connection for neutral start switch underneath clutch pedal, but haven't checked voltage yet.
The only other recent change was that I had a new RPS clutch & flywheel + 3.90 gears installed @ A&A. Ever since I got the car back, I've been having the starting issue and initiated the above troubleshooting process, but the problem persists. Since the motor starts up then immediately dies, something is still shutting off fuel / ignition, but after 2-3 restarts it will fire up & run.
Can anyone advise on other things to rule out to resolve this issue?
I have an '00 'Vert MN6 w/ 41k mi. So. CA warm weather / weekender car with H/C, bolt-ons & custom PCM tune, other brake & suspension mods.
Current starting problem:
On 1st turn of the key to start, the engine will start and then immediately die, as if fuel / ignition is being cut off. It takes 2-3 restarts to get the motor to fire & run. This occurs regardless if whether the car is cold or warmed up. Once the engine is running, the car runs normally. On restart, it takes 2-3 cycles to get the motor to run.
1) No Codes.
2) No DIC messages.
3) Column Lock works normally. No CLB installed.
4) Normal Battery / Charging system.
5) Cleaned Pellets on both ignition keys.
6) I have resolved all recent DIC Codes, these only related to a low voltage IAT sensor, which I Replaced.
7) I replaced the ignition switch and reused the OE lock cylinder & OE keys. I did notice that some function returned with the new switch, such as the back up lights flashing when the "lock" button on the fob was pressed. I was hoping that the switch was going to resolve the starting issues.
8) G101 & G102 grounds checked out totally clean, so I stopped there.
9) Checked connection for neutral start switch underneath clutch pedal, but haven't checked voltage yet.
The only other recent change was that I had a new RPS clutch & flywheel + 3.90 gears installed @ A&A. Ever since I got the car back, I've been having the starting issue and initiated the above troubleshooting process, but the problem persists. Since the motor starts up then immediately dies, something is still shutting off fuel / ignition, but after 2-3 restarts it will fire up & run.
Can anyone advise on other things to rule out to resolve this issue?
I posted the above problem.
Here is the update:
’00 Vert with LS1, H/C & bolt-ons. CA car with 42k on the clock.
Problem:
Hard starting regardless of cold or hot. Starter turns engine no hesitation/problem. Engine fires & immediately then shuts off. Takes 3-4 on/off ignition switch cycles before engine starts.
Ruled Out:
No PCM codes
New MAT Sensor & MAF Sensor (replaced due to low voltage codes)
100% battery 690 CCA (Exide Orbital)
Charging system OK
MSD Wires OK
Coils OK
Fresh Plugs - OK - light gray color
New Ign. Switch
Grounds under hood OK
Ign. Relay OK (swapped relays w/ same problem - no improvement)
Completed BCM reconnect procedure per Corvette Forum method
Clean air filter OK
Throttle Position Sensor OK (with key ON, I can hear throttle opening & closing by actuating pedal)
New Fuel Filter @ 33k mi. w/ H/C install @ A&A Corvette
Fuel pressure OK. About 54-55 psi after 20 min. (Fuel is present in line, not air pressure)
Injectors OK. Checked on flow bench w/ No leaks – no flooding.
No DIC messages or problems w/ Column Lock. Recall or Mod Not Done.
What else is there to check???
If VATS, what needs to be checked? Keys?
I would think that if VATS is the problem, car would not start at all.
i'm running out of things to check & rule out!
Can anyone suggest what else is there to check ?????