Okay it's my own fault for not looking at the TPS sensor. DOH!!!

 

More electrical stuff for a change! Ok, so the passenger side blinks normally front and back. The hazards work fine. The drivers side blinks very quickly but the funny part is that the FRONT drivers blinker blinks normally when the DRL's are on, and then not at all when they're off (Headlights on). The rear lights blink very quickly all the time regardless of the DRL status, and also correspond to a quickly blinking indicator light on the dash and clicking sound from the hazard light.

After reading most of this thread, it sounds like the hazard flasher module might be the source of the issue (or the connectors for it) since everything runs thru that. I have already tried replacing the bulb in case one of the filaments were burnt out, and all grounds have been removed and cleaned <6 months ago.

Is there a write up for the hazard button replacement? Sounds like I have to rip everything apart to get in there.

 

this thread is a godsend

 

Na,,,,You can remove the radio and the center vent and there is a short cut you can take. You can reach one of the release latches on the switch but not the other one. If you remove the emergency flasher button, you can insert a wooden dowel in the hole and while your holding the one release, smack in on the dowel and the switch will pop out of the other release. ENGLANDGREEN used that process on his and it worked fine.

BC

 

I know of a few friends with 97-98 C5's with similiar problems .

 

Great thread. Thanks for all those that have helped keep this one going. I'm having a few issues now and wanted to get some additional advice.

I'm getting some code issues with the Active Handling/TC system as well as the ride control (2003 with F55 suspension).

I know that the C1235 is the RR wheel sensor. Unplugging it doesn't change the code (shows as H&C). I can unplug the LR sensor and get the additional code for C1234 that goes away when I plug that one back in.

Also, after driving the car and sitting in a drive through or car wash with the engine running, it allows me to clear the code. It stays out for about five minutes but then comes back. Other times when I manually clear the code it comes immediately back (active code).

I'm going to check the plug-in connector at the wheel sensor at the right rear this evening but any other ideas?

Would the wheel sensor impact the ride control?

Do both of these have a common ground to check?

Any input or recommendations are greatly appreciated!

 

[I had a fuel sender problem,would'nt register correct fuel level.I got a bottle of BG44K put it in the tank I don't know how much fuel was left. drove the car and the problem was fixed.it costs 13.00 a bottle here in Houston.hope this helps you.: FONT="Arial"][/FONT]

 

Thanks alot for sharing

 

I Own A 99 Vette And Have Had The Same Problems You Listed In Your Article.(service Engine Soon, Low Engine Power, Check Tire Pressure...etc.) I Took It To The Dealer And They Said They Found 20 Codes. They Reprogrammed It And It Was Fine For About 5 Months Until I Had The Same Problem. They Then Replaced The Bcm. After That I Did Not Even Make It Home And I Had The Same Problems. Took It Back And They Said There Was A Loose Connection From The Terminal To The Bcm. Got It Back, And Had The Same Problem. They Ran A Few More Grounds And It Has Been Ok Since. My Question Is, Do You Feel The Bcm Was The Problem To Begin With, B/c They Replaced It And I Got The Same Problems. It Wasn't Until They Ran The Extra Grounds That It Has Been Ok.

 

Great post. Does anyone by chance here have the same info about the C4 ? I have some erratic problems on my zr1 and lt1

 

Im having the same problem as stated in post #261. Its still unanswered. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it.

 

Bill, I recently replaced the Oil Sensor following your post with high success particualrly on vacumn tube replacement. After 2 months I got Oil Sensor failure displayed again and now all these other codes are jumping up at random; they are the ones described by other members so I have to assume after reading most of this thread that the replacement sensor I just put in is probably not bad?

I will proceed with cleaning all ground points as I am getting a variety of random displays on tire sensor(s), oil pressure, service engine soon, change oil now, and that new oil sensor gauge will sometimes attempt to function then go back to 140 or so.

Sounds to me like all the same ground issues you have indentified.
Thank you much for your dedication.
John

 

Just wanted to add a bit of info to this thread as it relates to the grounds on my car (2001 Z06 w/17K).

Was driving down the road and the speedo and gauges would go completely nuts and on two occasions the car died for a split second which is unnerving at 75mph in rush hour traffic when trying to pass somebody. Checked for codes and found a whole list of them with most being the U1016 H and U1096 H.

This issue was fixed when I found a very loose connection at the ground wire located under the battery on the frame rail. I then checked the other three frame rail ground connections for corrosion and security with no other issues.

Then with the IPC issue fixed, a couple weeks later an erratic idle was noted. Checked codes and U1016 H on the DIC with several of the modules. I reset them and then drove car again and noted different results.

Wasted money ($100) by replacing a good battery because I thought the low voltage readings (12.5) at startup was a sign it was on the way out and I thought I saw the sides bulging a bit (might be seeing what I wanted to see). This did not fix the issue either.

Wasted more money ($200) by replacing the BCM. The issue went away for one short drive only. Returned again on the next drive. Side note: a new BCM requires a TechII visit because of the reprogramming required. At least I got the security issue fixed myself by following the service manuals since the car would not start after replacement.

Read more about troubleshooting in the manuals and figured out that the U1016 code in the SDM or RDM or IPC etc means the PCM is not able to communicate properly. U1XXX with XXX identifying the module that is having the issue. Each module ID is listed in Ch8 pg8-173.

Since I was having issues with an erratic idle it occured to me when looking at the schematics that the PCM and TAC shared the same ground location G106. I looked for a picture of G106 but none exist. Only when looking at the Master Electrical Component List did I see a mention of it. Located on the engine block just above the starter. It can be seen between the number 6 and 8 cylinder exhaust manifold and is a 15mm bolt. It was loose. Tightened it down and car is perfect once again.

Lesson: check grounds first as it saves money. Thanks for the idea Bill with this awesome thread you have started. My service manuals have again paid for themselves.

 

On my 04 I can't see mine.

 

Hi Gents,

First of all i'd like to say thanks. Before I purchased my Vette (about 4 days ago), I did an extensive amount of research on this site. I can't thank everyone that has contributed to this forum enough for all the helpful information they've taken the time to share. Everyone seems extremely knowledgable and has a deep passion for their Vettes. I was hoping I too could contribute something to this forum before I asked for help, but unfortunately I didn't have the opportunity.

I just purchased a 99 Corvette at a local high end used car dealer 4 days ago (White on tan leather, 61k miles... Exc condition). Bought it as is with no warranty. Took it for several test drives a few days before that and did a thorough inspection on it. Everything worked perfectly and was surprisingly well kept..

Last night I pulled up to a friends house, and pressed the window up button on the driver side door. The car went AWOL. "Reduced Engine Power, Service traction control system, Check tire pressure, car needs servicing." Also, I lost all power on my driver side door. The panel on the door no longer illuminates, nor does it work at all (can't roll windows up and down, door locks inop, and mirror control inop). Also, the fuel guage is occassionally inop. Also, when I turn the car off, the interior lights (climate system, passenger door panel, and console lights) all stay on.

I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. This seems to temporarily work; stopping all the service messages coming from the dash; however they turn back on within 2-3 mintues generally. The driver side door controls (and lighting) still never turn back on. The fuel guage only acted up once.

The battery appears fairly new. I did however notice upon removal that there was a decent amount of corrosion in the battery tray, but it didn't look like any corrosion got past the tray... The wiring surrounded the tray seemed to have some corrosive dust on it, but the wiring itself didn't appear to be damaged in any way.

I'd like to start by checking the ground connections; any idea as to which ground could cause the driver side door controls to go inoperative as well as the other problems i've mentioned?

I'd check them all, but I'm finishing up with college down in Daytona Beach, and I'm fairly limited as far as tools and a place to work on my car are concerned. Any tips for cleaning the corrosion (if i find any) in the inside of the male/female connectors? I heard its good to spray liquid wrench inside the connectors..

My biggest fear is that if I take it to a shop, I'm going to be dumping hundreds (or thousands) in to replacing expensive computers that don't have anything to do with the problem. To say the least i'm a very concerned new owner!!

Any and all help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Scott

 

Scott

Your problem is most likely NOT a chassis ground! Its probably a short in your door harness. Its a very common problem. The wires short cause the wire insulation rides up and exposed the bare wires:





Just examine the connectors for bare wires and damaged pins.

UPDATE!! This wire is a door SPEAKER SHIELD WIRE.

It is not an issue if its not covered. Look carefully at the FEMALE PINS inside the connectors. If they are bent and spread apart, it will cause the DCM to turn ON & OFF rapidly and corrupt the serial data line with noise.

Make sure that you check BOTH harness in BOTH doors!

BC

 

I carefully inspected the door harnesses and found no problems. Afterwards I took the car in to a local shop that I heard knows quite a bit about corvettes; the owner owning a corvette himself.

He said while he was working on the car, the battery completely died (after only an hour or so); although the alternator was properly charging the batt. He put a new battery in it and said that the warnings went away (he hasn't test driven it yet though). Supposedly all I need now is a new driver side door control module which they'll have tomorrow. He suspected that the battery just wasn't providing enough amperage to make everything work properly.

I also had a belt and tensioner replaced. My bill is $440: New belt, tensioner, battery, control module, and all labor/troubleshooting. I just hope to god that he's right and thats the end to these warnings.

Could it have been a bad battery?

 

Yep,,,could have been, I guess we will see. Keep us posted.

BC

 

im not sure if your the same guy i talked to at the corvette roulette back in october or not but if you are its nice to here from ya,i was in vegas and more less stumbled upon the event at the stardust,my wife was like oh this is just great,im glad i got to join in on the fun though,since it was the last time at the stardust before they blow er down
well see ya later oh i think you might have fixed my on the electrical problem thanks

woody

 

Well folks, all of my electrical problems ended up being nothing more than a bad battery and slightly corroded terminal. Been driving it for 3 days now with no problems at all after the battery and connector was replaced. The window problem was a bad driver side module. I'm not sure exactly why all the problems occured at exactly the same time, but thats the way the cookie crumbled. The electricity gods work in mysterious ways. Thanks for your help anyways Bill.