#2 fuse under the hood is OK. Swapped it with the one next to it and no change.

Will look at #15 & 8 tonight (forgot last night!)

Cycled emergency flasher switch (more than) 20 times. No change. The "click" rate was at the normal rate, not real fast like the turn signal click.

I exchanged relays 38 and 40 and no change. Is there some other testing I should do on them.

This is really strange, especially with the same voltages going to the socket that does not work and the one that does work.

I will look at #15 and 8 tonight and am ready to perform the next tests!

Update: Fuses OK. My multimeter is at the ready!

Bill

 

A friend of mine had an occasional no start problem similar to NVR BRNG. The engine would turn over, but not fire. If it did fire it would only run for a second or two. As luck would have it, the car manifested the problem in my driveway last Sat.
Thanks to Bill Curlee and this thread we were able to pinpoint the problem as fuel pump related, as it was silent when we listened as directed. Bottom line is we discovered the fuel pump fuse was bad. Not blown, but rather showing evidence of a poor connection as the plastic around one of the fuse's male lugs was burned and the lug itself appeared to have damage from a poor connection.
Any thoughts that something other than a bad connection could cause such a problem? Thanks to all of you dedicated members who post, making this the best Corvette site on the 'net!

 

Well, my (real) mechanic had the 'Vette today, he disassembled and cleaned all grounds and wheel sensors, applied dielectric grease, the code 1214 and insidious lights remained! He then disconnected the leads from the EBCM, found corrosion, cleaned same, and viola!! Code 1214 reset and gone, the *&^*((!@#@# lights are OUT!!

Thx Bill Curlee..anchors aweigh!!

BayVette

 

I have a 99 and my brake lights do not function and my "service advance track" lights up frequently. If this could be a ground issue, would it be the location at the rear wheels 401 and 402. Tail lights and signals work fine. Thanks, Scott

 

great wirte up i can see this write up saving alot of time and money
thanks

 

Thanks for the info.I was thinking,what if you spray on the spark plug water proofing over all of the grounds after they are cleaned.that may stop moisture from entering the connectors and stop this problem permently.The spray or dabber type is available at most Automotive Stores.Obviously,when you open up the connector ,you will have to re spray that connector.Just a thought we could kick around.Yeah or nae.

 

Here is a product that works well to stop the corrosion and will not effect the conductivity of the connector. Just spray it in the cleaned and assembled connector and your done! If you apply dielectric grease to the contacts of the connector, you run the risk of causing electrical problems. Dielectric grease is great for the rubber seals and boots that keep water, dirt and stuff out of the plug but shouldn't be applied to the contacts .



I got mine at a car show but you can order it on line.

Just google corrosionx

Bill C

 

Another "Reduced Engine Power" problem.

Backstory....started having this problem last year. I could usually just turn the car off and it would be okay for a week or so. Replaced the ACC pedal on a guess since it was an easy fix. No luck. The dealer later tracked it down the the TAC module and replaced it. No problems for the last year but have started re-occuring. And this time simply shutting the car off usually doesn't fix it right away. I can usually get it home by turning it on and off several times but it is really random. I get the following codes after shut off:

P0801
P1125
P1286
C1278
U1064

When I check the codes while having all the problems it thows up about 10 other codes that I can't find in my service manual (CD). A bunch of C12XX codes and a U1000

I have noticed that even when the car is driving fine I still get codes P0801 and U1064. I can reset them but they come back within a few minutes. Anyway....all my underhood grounds have been inspected and don't appear to have any corrosion. Any particular thing I should be focusing on? Surely the TAC module doesn't need to be replaced every few thousand miles? I have learned a lot from reading this thread but still can't seem to track down my problem.

 

Can grounding issues cause a drain?

 

bill,


here are a list of my codes and maybe you can narrow it down to 1 ground

p0102
p0443
p0740
p0758
p2761
p753
p785
p412
p418

its a 2004 that has never been out in the weather so i dont see how it could be corosion and i have an optima battery since last year and the alternator is brand new.


thanks in advance!

 

:Owner of 1999 HT up on till now I have been very able to do repairs but I find myself stumped . I lost IP lights and tail light once the ignition is on otherwise all the light do burn when the doors are open or close remotely Help!!!!

 

This the passenger side front turn signal/DRL problem that has been discussed above.

Final Update: Took it to the dealer and the socket was bad. No cost under GMPP.

I was measuring voltages and OK grounds in the socket but my meter has pointed probes, so maybe the points made contact where the bulb connectors could not. I also tried bending the socket connectors to ensure better contact with the bulb but it was hard to do.

At any rate, all fixed and I learned a lot, thanks to Bill's suggestions!

 

1287 and 1288...but most recently just c1288. Is it the drivers side or passenger side ground connector?

thanks

 

Bill, I have been having Charge System Fault codes as well as Service vehicle soon codes ever since I put my clutch in. I had left the rear ground wire loose as well as the metal clip that holds the wiring harness to the torque tube. I fixed both of these issues but I am still getting charge system fault and Service vehicle soon.

The car was running bad before with the other problems but seems to do okay in normal driving now. It is only when I get to just before redline that it acts up (my rev limiter is set at 7100 now). Just before redline it will sometimes lose power almost altogether, the lights will dim and almost cut off, and the tach will drop to zero. Then it comes right back on and runs fine (all this happens within a half of a second). After this happens I get a service traction control and service ABS message as well. Sometimes when running it hard I will get the Service traction control and service ABS message without the car losing power.

I am getting the PCM code P1637 all of the time as well as well as service vehicle soon and charge system fault as soon as the car is started. I have had the alternator tested and replaced the connector on the back of the alternator. The only other thing I can think of is that during the clutch install I was stupid and forgot to disconnect the battery at first and my header touched the starter and something metal (I think the frame) and arched some. I have also checked and all of the grounds I could have loosened are tight. The car is an 03 Z06 BTW.

I am about at my wits end with this problem, any help you can give would be great.

Kraig

 

The alternator is connected to the PCM via a discrete line Terminal "L" and Terminal "F" You need to make absolutely sure that the terminals on the alternator and the connectors in the plug are clean and make 100% connection.
As for your RPM setting, I hope you have a LOT of valve train mods accomplished!! Things that can cause a loss of power caused by a B+ or 12 VDC are:

Loose, dirty or defective battery terminals.
Loose, or bad connections at the starter.
There is a B+ terminal on the engine compartment fuse box. Make sure that is clean and tight.

Check those and let me know what you find.

Bill

 

Power windows : I have the same symptoms as many on here.

2000 C5 Vette

Day 1: beautiful day, top off, passenger side window would not go down. Opened and closed door forcefully and then window went down with just a slight hesitation. Then operated normally.

Day 20: Passenger side window no longer works. Still clicks with either Drivers side or Pass side button push. Lots of slamming and wire jiggling and still no window function.

Day 21: Searched this thread for the word "window" and read them all. I am similar to everyone else it seems.

Question: Please walk me thru 2 procedures.

1) Where do I find the "Kick panel" and where is the connection I need to diagnose?

2) If I have to remove the dreaded door panel, in what way do I do it such that it will go back on properly?

As always - thank you in advance.

 

Your in luck!! I also live in CT I live in Gales Ferry!! There is a very big CORVETTE CAR SHOW at the seaport in Mistic tomorrow from 11:00 til 4 PM. I will be there. If you want, I will bring some stuff to help you to troubleshoot your problem and give you a few tips on C5 ownership and maintenance. Just let me know if you will be there.

If you cant make it to the show, we can meet up some other time. Give me a call.

I will PM you my phone numbers.

See you at the car show or around the Gorton New London area!

 

My headers burned the wiring harness at the point you are talking about. Do you have a diagram of what those wires are supposed to be and where they go? It just happened in the last day and now I'm throwing all kinds of codes and my car drives like a bucking bronco.

 

Thanks for the info, Bill. While it turned out that was NOT my car's problem, at least I can scratch that from the list of possibilities.

My car has started displaying the "service traction system" and "reduced engine power" more and more frequently--it's gone from once every 8 weeks to once a week, and now twice (or more) per day.

I took the car to the (only) Chevy dealer in town; they had the car a week & couldn't diagnose the problem (they say because they couldn't recreate the problem); I took the car to a certified corvette mechanic & showed him your info. He was able to say that there wasn't any corrosion in the grounds or connectors. He DID say that the battery had, at one time, leaked acid & he felt that, even though he could see no obvious damage, the acid might have affected the wiring in that area. My next step is to take it to a specialist 60 miles away, who is an electrician specifically for corvettes.

My question is this: until I can get the car towed to him (can't risk driving it at 75 mph & have the "reduced engine power" problem occur), is there a way to manually turn off the traction system? And if there's a simple way to do that, is there a chance that it will also stop the "reduced engine power" from coming on?

I'm grasping at straws here, but after reading so many forums, it seems that these error messages are cause by so many things, that I don't know how it's ever going to get diagnosed and fixed.

Here's the diagnostic codes that come up just about every time:
10 PCM
P1125H
P1286H

28 TCS
C1278H

40 BCM
B0502HC
B0507HC
B2482HC
(and just recently, B2723H has started appearing)
Best regards,
Paula Cross

 

i've been seeing the service abs and also my battery voltage starts going up and down from 12 to 14.5 volts,also it turns my valentine on and off wich i have connected to my lighter not hardwired,so i checked the grounds on the frame rails,under the battery(obvious battery spill in the past)but no corrosion at connectors,and inside the car,only a little corrosion on the passenger side ground g202,i'll have to wait and see if it made a difference,i wonder what to f*** chevy was thinking when they put the pcm under the battery.