IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 25
From: Tacoma WA
Bill,
Inside my hatch, in the Driver Side rear compartment is my Real Time Dampening Control Module, and the 10" harness that seems to plug into the body there. I understand that the 10" section is replaceable and that it's connection is rivited into the body.
That whole compartment filled up with water during this freaking monsoon season in Washington... I have since found and fixed atleast 3 leaks (all in the hatch) and i know of 2 more that i'm fixing this weekend. (All of which seem to be where beads of body sealant stopped 1/4" short - poor factory machine calibration or something)
As a result of those leaks, and that little compartment filling. My RTD doesn't work. I removed it and air dried it, and dried out my car. with everything dried up i put it back together and it worked for a bit, and now has completely stopped working. (IE codes 1787 and 1786 in the RTD)
I bought a used RTD from a member online that was verified to work, and i get the same codes with the used RTD. So i'm assuming cleaning the corrosion on the connecters to the RTD (Blue and Brown) wasn't enough, and that the connections in the body (Black Plastic) are corroded and need repair/replace. Do you have any advice on further troubleshooting and or how-to steps for removing this harness and repairing it?
Also, my battery did leak, and i'm going to tear that down and check the TAC and PCM for damaged connectors, are there RTD circuits at risk near the PCM that could be the issue? I'm afriad i'm focusing on the RTD and Harness when the problem may lie under the battery in the front!?
Here's a Pic of the RTD and Compartment.
Thanks for the help, everything i've read from you has been very helpfull!
Dan
EDIT:
I looked up the codes:
C1786 RTD Control Relay Malfunction
C1787 RTD Control Relay Circuit (Open or Short to GND)
So i checked my fuse box and the RTD Fues is fine. However, what if the Microrelay is toast? How can i check that? Do i just yank it out and look? Or should a Dealer switch in a new one? Whats the likelyness that when the RTD compartment filled up with water something bad happened in that relay? (Just an FYI - when that compartment filled up, BAD BAD BAD things happened to my car until i disconnected the RTD and poured out the water... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1590919)
Inside my hatch, in the Driver Side rear compartment is my Real Time Dampening Control Module, and the 10" harness that seems to plug into the body there. I understand that the 10" section is replaceable and that it's connection is rivited into the body.
That whole compartment filled up with water during this freaking monsoon season in Washington... I have since found and fixed atleast 3 leaks (all in the hatch) and i know of 2 more that i'm fixing this weekend. (All of which seem to be where beads of body sealant stopped 1/4" short - poor factory machine calibration or something)
As a result of those leaks, and that little compartment filling. My RTD doesn't work. I removed it and air dried it, and dried out my car. with everything dried up i put it back together and it worked for a bit, and now has completely stopped working. (IE codes 1787 and 1786 in the RTD)
I bought a used RTD from a member online that was verified to work, and i get the same codes with the used RTD. So i'm assuming cleaning the corrosion on the connecters to the RTD (Blue and Brown) wasn't enough, and that the connections in the body (Black Plastic) are corroded and need repair/replace. Do you have any advice on further troubleshooting and or how-to steps for removing this harness and repairing it?
Also, my battery did leak, and i'm going to tear that down and check the TAC and PCM for damaged connectors, are there RTD circuits at risk near the PCM that could be the issue? I'm afriad i'm focusing on the RTD and Harness when the problem may lie under the battery in the front!?
Here's a Pic of the RTD and Compartment.
Thanks for the help, everything i've read from you has been very helpfull!
Dan
EDIT:
I looked up the codes:
C1786 RTD Control Relay Malfunction
C1787 RTD Control Relay Circuit (Open or Short to GND)
So i checked my fuse box and the RTD Fues is fine. However, what if the Microrelay is toast? How can i check that? Do i just yank it out and look? Or should a Dealer switch in a new one? Whats the likelyness that when the RTD compartment filled up with water something bad happened in that relay? (Just an FYI - when that compartment filled up, BAD BAD BAD things happened to my car until i disconnected the RTD and poured out the water... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1590919)
Last edited by LF97C5Vette; Feb 7, 2007 at 09:21 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 25
From: Tacoma WA
Maybe since the codes point to RTD Relay, the Problem is the RTD Relay!
Here it is:
Can i just yank it out of the box and replace it? How can i test it? Is there a procedure to test the relay's functionality?
EDIT:
Well I switch Micro Relay 39 "Fog LP" with Micro Relay 41 "RTD". It appears they're the same relay "OMROM 12088567 D00" so i figured i'd give it a shot.
After switching the two, the Fog Lamps still worked fine, and the RTD still displayed those 2 codes, and are inoporative. So I've eliminated a Bad RTD module, Bad Fuse, Bad Relay and have only the Harness and connectors left.
Any help on how to remove the RTD harness, would be great! Any other RTD related connections that need to be checked would also be great! (Like under battery...)
Dan
Here it is:
Can i just yank it out of the box and replace it? How can i test it? Is there a procedure to test the relay's functionality?
EDIT:
Well I switch Micro Relay 39 "Fog LP" with Micro Relay 41 "RTD". It appears they're the same relay "OMROM 12088567 D00" so i figured i'd give it a shot.
After switching the two, the Fog Lamps still worked fine, and the RTD still displayed those 2 codes, and are inoporative. So I've eliminated a Bad RTD module, Bad Fuse, Bad Relay and have only the Harness and connectors left.
Any help on how to remove the RTD harness, would be great! Any other RTD related connections that need to be checked would also be great! (Like under battery...)
Dan
Last edited by LF97C5Vette; Feb 7, 2007 at 10:35 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Florida
My car has been throwing codes what I start up almost every morning, so I finally did this. Broke the stud on the passenger side, even though I hit it with PB Blaster. Bill, even though you wrote up the part about the self tapping screw, I didn't heed this instructions enough attention, so I set up a wire with eye-ring at both ends, bolted together the ground connectors to one end, and ran the other end to the radiator cover bolt. Everything ran fine afterwards. I won't keep it like this, but hopefully it runs well long enough for me to find some self tapping screws.
Other notes: Those ground connectors were a serious PITA for me to take apart.....and when is this going to be Tech Tip or a sticky? This thread needs to be preserved!
Other notes: Those ground connectors were a serious PITA for me to take apart.....and when is this going to be Tech Tip or a sticky? This thread needs to be preserved!
Do you find that your car throws them more just after a rain? My C5 has been an electrical nightmare. Before the dealer voided my warranty they went through the grounds and it didn't help. I ended up getting taken for a PCM, BCM and over a grand of labor.
I've since gone through the grounds myself and the codes are less prevelant but almost certain right after a rain. I get the three Active Handling messages on the DIC and a lot of ding sounds. I'm contemplating clipping off the ground connectors and soldering all of the wires in a gang and eyelet. Like one of the others here, I hate to butcher a factory piece.
Peace!
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Florida
Well, my (real) mechanic had the 'Vette today, he disassembled and cleaned all grounds and wheel sensors, applied dielectric grease, the code 1214 and insidious lights remained! He then disconnected the leads from the EBCM, found corrosion, cleaned same, and viola!! Code 1214 reset and gone, the *&^*((!@#@# lights are OUT!!
Thx Bill Curlee..anchors aweigh!!
BayVette
Thx Bill Curlee..anchors aweigh!!
BayVette
Any chance you've had the opportunity to run it after or in a rain yet? Just curious ... I thought I had mine fixed but as soon as the rain started it threw codes again. After grounds I turned my attention to the EBCM as recommended by a GM Engineer but found no corrosion. It was nice and clean but I sprayed the connector with electronics cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. Sure enough, it stopped throwing codes until the first rain and now they are back. Not sure if it was a coincedence or what.
Peace!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 352
Likes: 11
From: Glendale AZ
Experiment
My 2000 shows the Service ABS and Active Handling messages from time to time. The two lights are lit up on the dash indicating something is amiss with the two functions.
Just messing around, I turned the key to the on position without starting the car. The car does it's normal pre-start routine of checking things out like the airbag and other things. Once it has done that I push the Active Handling button near my right hand to turn it off. The yellow light on the dash comes on with the swirving tire tracks saying the Active Handling is off. Then I start the car. 100 percent of the time the car starts up with no warning messages or lights and the Active Handling is back on.
Why I don't know, just sharing my experience. Maybe someone else can try the turn off the active handling system before starting the car and see if their car always starts with no problems.
Cleaning ground connectors this weekend.
David in Arizona
Just messing around, I turned the key to the on position without starting the car. The car does it's normal pre-start routine of checking things out like the airbag and other things. Once it has done that I push the Active Handling button near my right hand to turn it off. The yellow light on the dash comes on with the swirving tire tracks saying the Active Handling is off. Then I start the car. 100 percent of the time the car starts up with no warning messages or lights and the Active Handling is back on.
Why I don't know, just sharing my experience. Maybe someone else can try the turn off the active handling system before starting the car and see if their car always starts with no problems.
Cleaning ground connectors this weekend.
David in Arizona
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Nazareth PA
Electrical Issues...is It Considered Part Of Emissions?
I Own A 99 Vette And I Had The Same Problems Bill Posted Initially In The Forum. My Question Is...is This Part Of An Emissions Check And Would The 8yr/80k Mile Warranty Cover Replacement?
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Electrical issues are NOT part of the emissions system and will NOT set an emissions DTC. It can however cause the PCM to have issues and that would set a NOT ready code and you would fail emissions with that flag. Unless ou have some kind of super duper aftermarket warranty coverage, I would have to say,,,your on your own as far as the repair.
The warranty that your speaking of usually covers things like CATs,
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 352
Likes: 11
From: Glendale AZ
Many of you have asked me for help on solving electrical problems and I thought this would be VERY interesting!
The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
Thanks Bill.
David
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Georgia
I suck at doing FANCY web stuff! I may try to make this into a TECH TIP. I would have posted more pictures but the forum would not let me! 
I have more info and pictures if anyone need them! Just e-mail me
bill327@msn.com
My 98 electrical issues are 98% solved!!! The only thing that is still kicking my A$% is a Fuel Level Sender problem. After I drive it for a while it goes to empty and I get DIC codes P0461 & P1431
I suspect it is a fuel level sender issue BUT is it the left or the right sensor?? The left one is $400. and the right one is $300.
My luck it will be BOTH that are bad!!
To figure it out without using a TECH II, I have to remove both senders and do a resistance check on a full sweep of the float assembly!
Anybody else had this issue??
Bill
I have more info and pictures if anyone need them! Just e-mail mebill327@msn.com
My 98 electrical issues are 98% solved!!! The only thing that is still kicking my A$% is a Fuel Level Sender problem. After I drive it for a while it goes to empty and I get DIC codes P0461 & P1431
I suspect it is a fuel level sender issue BUT is it the left or the right sensor?? The left one is $400. and the right one is $300.
My luck it will be BOTH that are bad!!To figure it out without using a TECH II, I have to remove both senders and do a resistance check on a full sweep of the float assembly!
Anybody else had this issue??
Bill
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 3
From: East Hampton CT
Bill, the grounds didn't seem badly corroded at all. I was hoping for some obvious greenish blue corrosion so I knew I found the problem, but nothing. The ground studs were a little rusted, but everything got sanded, cleaned with contact cleaner, and then dieelectric greased and reassembled.
This red-top supposedly floats (yes, key off, battery disconnected, not charging) at a higher voltage. I was told that it should sit closer to 13-13.5 volts compared to a regular lead acid that sits at 12.6 like you say. But maybe the other source was wrong? I need to buy a battery load tester soon so I can see what the battery drops down to with a draw. It sure seems like the smallest draw drops the voltage on that battery pretty quickly.
I need to check the fuse in my meter, it seems like its not working properly when I hook it up in series.
This red-top supposedly floats (yes, key off, battery disconnected, not charging) at a higher voltage. I was told that it should sit closer to 13-13.5 volts compared to a regular lead acid that sits at 12.6 like you say. But maybe the other source was wrong? I need to buy a battery load tester soon so I can see what the battery drops down to with a draw. It sure seems like the smallest draw drops the voltage on that battery pretty quickly.
I need to check the fuse in my meter, it seems like its not working properly when I hook it up in series.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 966
Likes: 9
From: Phoenix AZ
So far I've been able to take care of most of my issues by cleaning the grounds per Bill's post (passenger doorlock, headlight motors). I still have an issue with the windshield washer pump, though. It, too, is a bad ground as indicated by testing with a multimeter. Can someone tell me where the ground point is located for the pump?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 966
Likes: 9
From: Phoenix AZ
I chopped them off, went with 3 eyelet grounds, and life is better in code land. I will try and have some photos up tomorrow or this weekend. Also installed the column lock bypass (CLB) and the 1st to 4th shift bypass, Next on the hitlist is the HVAC actuator to even out my air conditioning before the Arizona summer arrives.
Thanks Bill.
David
Thanks Bill.
David
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: pass christian Mississippi
Many of you have asked me for help on solving electrical problems and I thought this would be VERY interesting!
My 98 coupe would get the infamous "REDUCED ENGINE POWER", "TRACTION CONTROL FAILURE" and a host of random failure codes. After many, many hours of troubleshooting, replacing the BCM and TAC module, I solved most of the driveability issues. Still getting the random DTC failure codes, I thought that I may be having ground issues. Back in June I cleaned ALL of the chassis grounds and the car virtually stopped throwing the "RANDOM" DTC failure codes. Just moving the wires in the chassis ground connector was enough to change the indications and make the issues stop happening.
I had a chance to speak with some GM C5 Trouble Desk Engineers when I went to Bowling Green KY in April and they pointed out that MANY of the C5 electrical issues can be directly linked to chassis ground problems. The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
I strongly recommend that any C5 owner that has had or who are having electrical issues, examine and clean the chassis ground connectors. This may save you from needlessly replacing expensive electronics modules. Each ground connector can be disassembled and cleaned in about 20 min.
Just cleaning the metal ground connection between the chassis and the plug is only a band aid solution. Now that I look back, when I cleaned my chassis grounds and initially solved my issues, I believe that when the connector is being removed to clean the connection between chassis and the connector, just the wires being moved inside the plug is what changed the indications and made everything work better.
Disassembly of the chassis ground plug and cleaning the contacts inside the connector is the correct method of solving the issue!
I took some pictures of the under hood chassis ground connector and the corrosion that was in it. I cleaned the two connections on the frame rails and the left one was significantly corroded! Taking it apart and cleaning it is a very straight forward procedure and I believe that if you follow this recommendation, you will be on the way to solving the many of the electrical issues.
Here are some detailed pictures of the ground connector and the corrosion that was found inside it!
Picture of under hood Chassis Ground connector G-101
Corrosion inside connector! (You ain't seen nothing yet!)
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Next three photos are of the corrosion found on the connector terminals!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG]
Self tapping ground screw and star washer. This is what you will need if the ground stud breaks off during removal!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][IMG]
Here are where the chassis ground points are on a C5:
PLEASE let me know if you have any questions.
Bill Curlee
updated 02 March 06
My 98 coupe would get the infamous "REDUCED ENGINE POWER", "TRACTION CONTROL FAILURE" and a host of random failure codes. After many, many hours of troubleshooting, replacing the BCM and TAC module, I solved most of the driveability issues. Still getting the random DTC failure codes, I thought that I may be having ground issues. Back in June I cleaned ALL of the chassis grounds and the car virtually stopped throwing the "RANDOM" DTC failure codes. Just moving the wires in the chassis ground connector was enough to change the indications and make the issues stop happening.
I had a chance to speak with some GM C5 Trouble Desk Engineers when I went to Bowling Green KY in April and they pointed out that MANY of the C5 electrical issues can be directly linked to chassis ground problems. The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
I strongly recommend that any C5 owner that has had or who are having electrical issues, examine and clean the chassis ground connectors. This may save you from needlessly replacing expensive electronics modules. Each ground connector can be disassembled and cleaned in about 20 min.
Just cleaning the metal ground connection between the chassis and the plug is only a band aid solution. Now that I look back, when I cleaned my chassis grounds and initially solved my issues, I believe that when the connector is being removed to clean the connection between chassis and the connector, just the wires being moved inside the plug is what changed the indications and made everything work better.
Disassembly of the chassis ground plug and cleaning the contacts inside the connector is the correct method of solving the issue!
I took some pictures of the under hood chassis ground connector and the corrosion that was in it. I cleaned the two connections on the frame rails and the left one was significantly corroded! Taking it apart and cleaning it is a very straight forward procedure and I believe that if you follow this recommendation, you will be on the way to solving the many of the electrical issues.
Here are some detailed pictures of the ground connector and the corrosion that was found inside it!
Picture of under hood Chassis Ground connector G-101
Corrosion inside connector! (You ain't seen nothing yet!)
[IMG]
[/IMG] Next three photos are of the corrosion found on the connector terminals!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] Self tapping ground screw and star washer. This is what you will need if the ground stud breaks off during removal!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][IMG]Here are where the chassis ground points are on a C5:
PLEASE let me know if you have any questions.
Bill Curlee
updated 02 March 06
Tommy
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Mtns of Western NC & SW FLA
Great Thread, but I'm still confused...
Having perused most/all of the "EBCM" threads on the Forum, I remain at a loss for diagnosis:
I have gotten the dash board "light up"/all sys fail, etc. several times over the nearly 5 years
of owning our '02. I get all those warnings, no analog gauges working except for battery,
windows don't work, A/C goes off, radio off, etc.
It only happens on long trips, usually only in very warm to hot weather, (anecdotal?), and
always "rights" itself after I turn it off, and re-start. The "next day" of a multi-daytrip it
seldom reoccurs. It happens less than half a dozen times per year, but it seems to come
in "bunches". Has never happened on 1/2 day trips, again prob. anecdotal.
My question is: of the 4 dlrs I've been able to get it into for a "look", (always without
the gauges "lit up"), the dlr(s) have never found a code.
Does this "no code found" suggest the ground situ more a possible cause than failure in the EBCM
thing? Is it odd there are no codes of any kind? Are they all bs'ng me?!
I still have a yearish on my GMPP ext warranty so I would like to get to the bottom of this,
before the sucker expires, realizing that the usual hour of looking that the Techs have done
each time, is on my nickel. I would just like to get it "fixed" before all the stuff is my nickel...
I have looked at some of the grounds, per Mr.Curlee's excellent post, but they look good and
seem secure and with no corrosion, but I'm not an electrical sys maven.
My apology for this post's length and if it's in the wrong thread, give it a bump. Any opins or
comments would be welcome, however: here or PM or email.
Thanks and Best Regards,
David
Having perused most/all of the "EBCM" threads on the Forum, I remain at a loss for diagnosis:
I have gotten the dash board "light up"/all sys fail, etc. several times over the nearly 5 years
of owning our '02. I get all those warnings, no analog gauges working except for battery,
windows don't work, A/C goes off, radio off, etc.
It only happens on long trips, usually only in very warm to hot weather, (anecdotal?), and
always "rights" itself after I turn it off, and re-start. The "next day" of a multi-daytrip it
seldom reoccurs. It happens less than half a dozen times per year, but it seems to come
in "bunches". Has never happened on 1/2 day trips, again prob. anecdotal.
My question is: of the 4 dlrs I've been able to get it into for a "look", (always without
the gauges "lit up"), the dlr(s) have never found a code.
Does this "no code found" suggest the ground situ more a possible cause than failure in the EBCM
thing? Is it odd there are no codes of any kind? Are they all bs'ng me?!
I still have a yearish on my GMPP ext warranty so I would like to get to the bottom of this,
before the sucker expires, realizing that the usual hour of looking that the Techs have done
each time, is on my nickel. I would just like to get it "fixed" before all the stuff is my nickel...
I have looked at some of the grounds, per Mr.Curlee's excellent post, but they look good and
seem secure and with no corrosion, but I'm not an electrical sys maven.
My apology for this post's length and if it's in the wrong thread, give it a bump. Any opins or
comments would be welcome, however: here or PM or email.
Thanks and Best Regards,
David
Last edited by motordavid; Apr 15, 2007 at 11:46 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: bay area ca
04 z wont start
Hi All,
All of a sudden today i get a bunch of codes that show "no communication", pretty much for all the modes.
10-pcm - no cummunication
28-tcs - no cummunication
80-radio - no cummunication
etc.
The traction control, abs lights, service soon, security and reduced engine power came on while driving. I stoped at the house and turned off the car. Now I can't even turn the car on, the gauges turn on, needles moving on the cluster but when I turn the key to start the car nothing happens, the engine doesn't turn. It feels like the security imobilizer switched on? (security is stock, everything is stock)
i checked two of the front ground connectors 101 and 102 and no corrosion, the batter looks fine also but the car just wont start?
Any ideas? Want to try to troubleshoot myself before I get jacked at the dealership
04 z with 34k miles on it.
All of a sudden today i get a bunch of codes that show "no communication", pretty much for all the modes.
10-pcm - no cummunication
28-tcs - no cummunication
80-radio - no cummunication
etc.
The traction control, abs lights, service soon, security and reduced engine power came on while driving. I stoped at the house and turned off the car. Now I can't even turn the car on, the gauges turn on, needles moving on the cluster but when I turn the key to start the car nothing happens, the engine doesn't turn. It feels like the security imobilizer switched on? (security is stock, everything is stock)
i checked two of the front ground connectors 101 and 102 and no corrosion, the batter looks fine also but the car just wont start?
Any ideas? Want to try to troubleshoot myself before I get jacked at the dealership
04 z with 34k miles on it.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: bay area ca
Hi All,
All of a sudden today i get a bunch of codes that show "no communication", pretty much for all the modes.
10-pcm - no cummunication
28-tcs - no cummunication
80-radio - no cummunication
etc.
The traction control, abs lights, service soon, security and reduced engine power came on while driving. I stoped at the house and turned off the car. Now I can't even turn the car on, the gauges turn on, needles moving on the cluster but when I turn the key to start the car nothing happens, the engine doesn't turn. It feels like the security imobilizer switched on? (security is stock, everything is stock)
i checked two of the front ground connectors 101 and 102 and no corrosion, the batter looks fine also but the car just wont start?
Any ideas? Want to try to troubleshoot myself before I get jacked at the dealership
04 z with 34k miles on it.
All of a sudden today i get a bunch of codes that show "no communication", pretty much for all the modes.
10-pcm - no cummunication
28-tcs - no cummunication
80-radio - no cummunication
etc.
The traction control, abs lights, service soon, security and reduced engine power came on while driving. I stoped at the house and turned off the car. Now I can't even turn the car on, the gauges turn on, needles moving on the cluster but when I turn the key to start the car nothing happens, the engine doesn't turn. It feels like the security imobilizer switched on? (security is stock, everything is stock)
i checked two of the front ground connectors 101 and 102 and no corrosion, the batter looks fine also but the car just wont start?
Any ideas? Want to try to troubleshoot myself before I get jacked at the dealership
04 z with 34k miles on it.
Previous night the car was in the rain, could the moisture have caused this?
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Florida
Hey Garo,
I've had the very same thing happen. I had to disconnect the battery and let it set for about twenty minutes. Then on restart it blew the message, turn off ignition, remove key and wait 10 seconds message. This all happened here in Florida on a cool clear night. Now, when it rains my car does seam to throw the TCS, Active Handly, ... codes more often. The electrical is so bad in mine I don't know what I'm going to do. We've pulled all of the ground points, cleaned, and reconnected, did the same to the bus bars near the BCM, and have replaced the ECM, BCM and had it reprogrammed at the dealership several times. It's a mess and has cost a load of money. I'm convinced it's nothing more than a bad ground or buss connection somewhere in the system.
Good Luck!
I've had the very same thing happen. I had to disconnect the battery and let it set for about twenty minutes. Then on restart it blew the message, turn off ignition, remove key and wait 10 seconds message. This all happened here in Florida on a cool clear night. Now, when it rains my car does seam to throw the TCS, Active Handly, ... codes more often. The electrical is so bad in mine I don't know what I'm going to do. We've pulled all of the ground points, cleaned, and reconnected, did the same to the bus bars near the BCM, and have replaced the ECM, BCM and had it reprogrammed at the dealership several times. It's a mess and has cost a load of money. I'm convinced it's nothing more than a bad ground or buss connection somewhere in the system.
Good Luck!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 1
From: LEBANON PA.
Hi Bill,
I found your article about the electrical grounds very good. As a former aircraft technician we ran into similar situations with the flight instruments panel. I was wondering what you used to clean the connectors. Did you wrap the connectors with electrical tape to prevent this from re-ocurring? (To prevent moisture from re-entering the connector.) I am new to this forum but have 40 years experience in repairing airplanes & cars. I just bought my first dream car in December 2006, a 2001 Corvette with the LS1 engine with 9700 miles on it. (A 6spd.) I bought it private in New York from a Corvette enthusiast. My car is in mint condition. The owner never drove it in rain or snow and also never ate or smoked in it. I had this car up on jack stands for a few days in my garage at home. The only rust I found was on the rear mufflers, and that was light. I sanded the mufflers & painted them & then I painted the brake calipers. I removed the wheels because of suspected intergranular corrosion. I found lots of rust on the axle hub & on the inner wheel flange. I cleaned all the rust off both wheels and axle hubs using emory paper. I put the wheels on & torqued the lug nuts to 100ft.lbs as per the shop manual. I only torqued the lug nuts in 25ft.lb. increments as the spokes are on the thin side. This could be the reason a lot of C5 owners have cracked wheels at the spokes. They probably torqued the nuts to 100ft. lbs. all at one time. What is your opinion? Thanks.
Best regards,
Rob
I found your article about the electrical grounds very good. As a former aircraft technician we ran into similar situations with the flight instruments panel. I was wondering what you used to clean the connectors. Did you wrap the connectors with electrical tape to prevent this from re-ocurring? (To prevent moisture from re-entering the connector.) I am new to this forum but have 40 years experience in repairing airplanes & cars. I just bought my first dream car in December 2006, a 2001 Corvette with the LS1 engine with 9700 miles on it. (A 6spd.) I bought it private in New York from a Corvette enthusiast. My car is in mint condition. The owner never drove it in rain or snow and also never ate or smoked in it. I had this car up on jack stands for a few days in my garage at home. The only rust I found was on the rear mufflers, and that was light. I sanded the mufflers & painted them & then I painted the brake calipers. I removed the wheels because of suspected intergranular corrosion. I found lots of rust on the axle hub & on the inner wheel flange. I cleaned all the rust off both wheels and axle hubs using emory paper. I put the wheels on & torqued the lug nuts to 100ft.lbs as per the shop manual. I only torqued the lug nuts in 25ft.lb. increments as the spokes are on the thin side. This could be the reason a lot of C5 owners have cracked wheels at the spokes. They probably torqued the nuts to 100ft. lbs. all at one time. What is your opinion? Thanks.
Best regards,
Rob
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Rob
Congrats on your car! Sounds like its REALLY nice! As for the connectors, I use this with VERY GOOD results:
One is light oil and the other is heavy oil. They will BOTH protect electrical connectors! It has a LOT of other uses! You can get it in line. WWW.corrosionX.com
I have ZERO ground connector corrosion issues after using the spray.
Its always a good idea to sequentially torque your wheels. I doubt that it has anything to do with the cracking (you would be AMAZED at what some people put there cars through that would crack the spokes! )
BC
BC
Congrats on your car!
Sounds like its REALLY nice! As for the connectors, I use this with VERY GOOD results:One is light oil and the other is heavy oil. They will BOTH protect electrical connectors! It has a LOT of other uses! You can get it in line. WWW.corrosionX.com
I have ZERO ground connector corrosion issues after using the spray.
Its always a good idea to sequentially torque your wheels. I doubt that it has anything to do with the cracking (you would be AMAZED at what some people put there cars through that would crack the spokes!
)BC
BC