Does anyone know where the wiper motor is grounded?
Thanks

 

Update on my car! Loaded it into my buddies race trailer Friday to take it to his shop. Unloaded it a half hour later. Put the key in the ignition just for grins and guess what. No messages and the fuel pump fired. Finally bale to pull all the codes (almost 40 of them). Cranked and fired the first time. We went ahead a rechecked all the grounds and cleaned the pcm connectors. Car acts like nothing happened at all. Oh well go figure.

 

That's scary! Thanks for posting your troubleshooting Bill. I just bought an 01 Z06 and my car's dash would go from regular to zero info, sounding alarms and turning off my radio and ac! This was after my friend got into the car each time. I know he likes Fords and it was my car's way of showing it's dissaproval, but reading your posts has led me to look into the door jamb connection on the pass side. Kudos to people like you who take the time to help others!

 

Glad this thread has become a Sticky!!!!

2003 AE.... the driver side door controls intermediately stopped working yesterday, could open the door, wiggle the wiring harness and make the controls start working again. Started getting all the Crazy DIC warnings on the way home, even made the radio stop working.

Will start with short in the door project first then move on to grounds...

Thanks!

 

I'm getting intermittant 1288, sometimes 1287 dtc codes. I've cleaned left and right chasis grounds..connectors to the ebcm. Never happens when going in straight line...seems most of the time it's when going slow, and turning. Sometimes with the brake depressed, other times when just coasting.

Almost seems like it could be a loose wire or bad ground somewhere but i'm at a loss at this point.

Bill, anything more I can check before taking it to the dealer?

 

UPDATE: Found a short in the wiring under dash that runs to driverside door, had to stand on my head under the steering wheel to repair it.

BTW: All ground connections looked good.

Everything back to normal again.

 

Bill

I reprogrammed my key fobs about 10 times in the last year and they keep losing their memory monthly. I read somewhere that the location the factor alarm is grounded sometimes gets nasty and doesn’t make for a great connection. Would you happen to know where this system is grounded on a 99? Any other advise is welcomed also.

 

Why yes I do! The systems involved in the FOB operation are the BCM and the RFA modules. The ground for the RFA and the BCM modules are Chassis Ground# 104 via splice pack SP-208.

Instead of re-programing the FOBs, try re-syncing them.

If your loosing SYNC on the FOB, check this out. Examine the DTC's and see if your getting a bunch of U series DTC's. Either way, it could be a weak 12 VDC battery causing the problem. Even though the battery cranks and starts the engine, the battery could be weak and cause the fobs to lose sync. The next time it happens, press and hold the FOB lock and unlock buttons at the same time until you hear the horn toot. That should re-sync the FOB to the system and it will operate normally again.


If the battery voltage drops below the 9 VDC while cranking, the RFA module cutoff voltage will cause the module to drop off line and loose its sync. As soon as the engine starts, the voltage returns to normal and the FOB can be re-synced.

Battery voltage is inversely proportional to battery current. When the starter draws massive ammounts of current battery, voltage drops to it lowest voltage. The high current will allow the engine to crank but the low voltage will adversely effect module operation. Measure batt voltage during a cold cranking test and see how low it is going.

A good battery should be able to maintain 11 VDC or above while cranking. As the battery ages or goes weak to bad, it will progressively get worse. If your seeing 9 VDC, its time for a new battery.

BC

 

BC...How in the hell did you pull apart the frame rail connectors? I'm a little smarter then the average monkey but holy crap!

Shahram

 

I used a small sharp screw driver and inserted it into the catch and used the blade as a leverage point. The female pins are suppose to dig into and grip the male pins so, its going to (suppose to) be tight.

Pry on one side then the other until you work it out far enough to free the tabs from the latch to be able to grab the ground tab with a pair of pliers and pull it out!

BC

 

Ok...I'll do it!

Shahram

 

Holy **** BC, my connectors looked just like yours and my car has never seen the rain! Cleaned everything...my intermitten "charging system fault" is no more

Shahram

 

Yep! Just washing the car will get that connector wet and cause it to get nasty! Good work!

BC

 

so im at the end of trying to figure out what is wrong with my car and i just stopped driving it about 2 weeks ago now...typical messages, reduced engine power, service traction control, service abs, the codes it brings up are a 0704 clutch switch circuit and a 1220 tp sensor, and a 1278..and whats wierd is a 2578 and 2583 turn signals shorted to ground....im about to just sell the car as a "project car" btw, ive checked many grounds and cleaned them just to be safe. I replaced the battery with a "platinum" model which is the best battery, and my fobs still lose programming every week or so. i hope i can get this car fixed and maybe drive it again someday?? who knows, now that my denali is ok again maybe the vette wants to be ok too!!!

 

Nver2loud

Before you get too discouraged, lets look at your problem again. First off,,DTC C 1278 is TCS temporally inhibited by the PCM. That is a normal DTC when the EBTCM has an issue. The reduced engine power is most likely being caused by DTC 1220. Throttle Position Sensor Circuit#2 The sensor has two circuits. One is high and goes low and the other is low and goes high. The PCM monitors this sensor and if the two circuits don't match (i.e. equal but opposite) it will put the engine in reduced power mode. The very first thing to do is examine the sensor, the connector and the wiring harness.

Some people have had dirty throttle blades or throttle blade gears inside the TB cause this issue. With the engine off, examine the Throttle Blade movement. Open it fully and let it close. It should move very smoothly. It will NOT shut completely with out power.

The throttle position sensor can also be bad. So can the accelerator pedal sensor. The TB sensor is a LOT less expensive than the accelerator pedal sensor. If the wiring harness checks out as does the connector, replace the sensor.

The other DTC, shouldnt have anything to do with reduced engine power! Fix them later after you can drive your car!

We can lick these issues. All it takes is a little time and patience.

BC

 

Bill,
What a resource, can't thank you enough!

99 FRC, have cleaned both the terminal on the pass frame rail, and connector on driver rail. Driver side was spotless, no corrosion at all. Problems I'm having:

-No backup lights
-No keyless entry (tried both synching and reprogram via DIC)
-Pass door is intermittent (window and lock, they either both work or both don't; it's mostly don't )

Got these codes all in H status, but they'll all come back at some point as they have a few times now.
PCM p1112, p1626 - both
TCS u1301, c1242, c1243, u1016
BCM b2482, u1255, u1016, u1096
SDM U1301
IPC u codes: 1255,1016,1064,1040,1088,1176
Radio u1064,u1016,u1096
RFA U1266,u1096,u1016,u1064,C2115

Would love to have backup lights again, and ideally keyless. Do these symptoms point you any particular direction on the car? I have had 3-4 times of the Reduced Engine power, all warning lights on, gauges pegged, etc.

THANKS!!

Kind regards, Bryan

 

which tp sensor is the 1220, which side of the tb is it on??

 

The throttle position sensor is on the passengers side of the throttle body. It has a single connector with three wires.

BC

 

it appears mine is a 6 wire sensor?? and my wire harness to it was replaced at one time and butt connected, im going to solder them today and see what happens.

 

well, i soldered the wires, started it up, thought everything would be cool...shut it down, went to leave work and now it says service abs, service traction control, but no reduced engine power this time, which is odd because they used to all come together...shut off car and checked codes, got a 1225h, and a u 1096, 1064 and 1016, and ive gotten these before...any ideas????