Irish56

Yea,,you can skip quite a few!! It all depends on what kinds of issues your having. If you pin point the issue and include the DTC codes your getting. I can probably narrow it down to the EXACT ground wire!



Bill

 

Bill, great post...I am new to the C5. Mine has only 3,800 miles on a 2000. I noticed that the pass. window will not go down. When I press the window down button on either side all I hear is a fait electrical click and the window does not work...any thoughts and direction?

Thanks

 

Henry

The passenger door on some C5 gets used very little. It can often stick due to not being used. One cause of your door window not working could be a stuck window regulators mechanism. The easiest solution that has worked for numerous forum members is to just jar the door while pressing the down or up button. Some people have even had to slam the door. For the most part, this will solve the problem

The most probable cause is a dirty relay contact inside of the Right Door Control Module (RDCM) The relays are known to go bad due to arcing. There have been a few people who have preformed surgery on the DCM's and have replaced the bad relay with good success. Some have just replaced the module. NOTE!! There expensive!!!

Then there are people (my self included) that have found the door wiring harness connectors to be the problem. The wiring harness exits the door between the two door hinges through an accordion tube. Then they connect the the main wiring harness behind the kick panel in the foot well. I manipulated the plugs and got mine to work normally.

Start with the easy free stuff first and let us know how you make out.

Bill

 

Bill,
Thanks for all the valuable info. We have cleaned 6 points under the hood but we still have a "gremlin" that we cannot find. I did have the A/C condensation back up and soak the PCM, so I am guessing that the chassis ground point in this area may have been soaked and started corroding. Can you tell me exactly where the #6 chassis ground point is on the passenger footwell?

thanx

 

Yes I can! You will need to remove the passengers side door sill cover. It just lifts straight up and then slides back. If you follow the door sill up to where it runs into the frame for the door hinges, the ground is right there. It is tucked into a small triangle shaped well on the inside of the sill and is difficult to get to but doable. Here is what the connector looks like:



I have pictures of the exact connector and I will down load them and post them.

Bill

 

I was just going to post for the same problem. I will clean all the grounds asap and see if this stops the DIC brain farts. Also the driver doo controls do not work sometime but when I open and close the doo the functions are restored. I quess I better check out the harness and also the ground.

 

Bill, Thanks...I tried the "jar the door" - no success, tried the "slam the door with the button pushed" - no success.

Drove the car on a Michigan Freeway (Read bumpy hi-way) - SUCCESS. The window now goes up and down...go figure.

As for now the problem is solved. Based on what I have read here this gremlin may show up again.

Thanks for your insight.

Henry

 

I had this same problem and it still persists from time to time. where the door meets the car is that rubber accordion thing, give it a jiggle, or squeeze to feel the wire bundle and nudge it towards the door side, i feel there is too much tension on the door wiring system causing the connectors to lose contact now and then..I was going to try extending all the wires, but havnt been that bored yet.....hope ur vette is like mine.....

 

The problem with all of your doors is more than likely going to be a bad connection in the door wiring harness connector (which isn't even in the door ). Its in the kick panels in the foot wells. I recommend disconnecting both connectors and examining those pins and wires. It could be a loose connection in the other plugs but, most of the time it's the main plugs.

BC

 

Hi Bill, last time I saw you we were at NED, now that we survived winter hope you can help with a A/C problem I've been having issues with. Didnt see it in 9 pages of threads, so here goes my story of woe. It's the old blinking light on the A/C button. The pressure sensor was replaced last year and the ground cleaned up and 134 added. Worked for awhile then the bug would return. If I shut the car off and engaged clutch in 6th and then restart it the light comes on and A/C works fine. OK, I cleaned ground # 101 and #102 that didnt work. No fuse issues and the compressor is working. So where is the ground for the A/C. I want to clean it before I start replacing stuff. Do you have a pic? Be simple, I can change plugs and oil but beyond that haha. Thanks, Brent.

 

Brent

In at work right now but will look into this later tonight! Good to hear from you again!

BC

 

I better look into that, glad you responded before i went and cut everything hahaha....thanks again, your a great asset to this forum....

 

Brent

Here are the grounds for the AC Systen: G-102 which is where the clutch is grounded to. Are you sure that you cleaned it correctly? Did you completly disassemble the ground connector and clean the pins on the inside?? The other ground is in the passengers foot well. G-202 but it is for the blower motor.

You should have seen pins like this:







If you just took the connector off the stud, that most likely the problem.

On the other hand,,the AC system is controled by the PCM. Do you have a duel zone HVAC system or a manually controlled system.

Are you seeing any DTC codes when the AC indicator light blinks?? Oull up the codes in the DIC and see if there are any there.

Bill C

 

Hey, thanks for getting back to me. I thought you were retired whats with the job BS. Haha. Well, I did a half *** job on the 102. You were right I didnt take a look at connector. I will. There are no codes, there never are. Blower motor is fine. After I clean the connector, I'll let you know. Thanks for the help as usual. Youre the best.

 

OK Bill this is where I am. First to any your question I have a dual zone and I'm not throwing codes. As you recommended I did the job right and cleaned the connector and the eyelets on the 102. The stupid light still blinks. Is there a next step with any more grounds. The blower motor is OK. Everthing else in the electrical system is fine. Thanks for you help as usual.

 

I like the idea of the penatrating type anticorosives. I remember using a similar product to the marine type. It seems to have a copper base so when it penatrates it also creates or supplements the connection. I also bought a product at walmart that comes in a tiny spray applicator. It is mostly for battery terminals but I sprayed it on all the eyelet type connectors I could see. It coats it with a red colored grease like substance. It apparently prevents corrosion and waterproofs the teminal as well. Kinda nasty but the preventive benifits outweigh the showcar aspect IMHO. Also the dialectic grease in all the connectors is always the best way to go for prevent maint and they dont seem to stick as much if you want them apart again. Thanks for the heads up about the ground connectors, its next on my maint to do list.

 

Bill thanks for the great thread. I have read it all with great interest.

I have been getting the ABS/TC warnings and lights and I have also started getting the ABS Active warning. When that happens, I can feel a pulsating pull on the driver’s front brake and I hear what sounds like a fluid pump running. This will eventually stop, and I get the usual warning, which I can stop with the reset.

I tried cleaning grounds G-101, 102 and 104 without any effect. Then I tried clearing the codes and getting hard on the brakes, and repeated that a few times, again, with no effect.

Would you have any suggestions for anything else I can try? Also, do you know of a way I can disable the ABS/TC system until I can get this figured out? I think that would be safer than having the ABS activate on it's own.

The codes I cleared were:
TCM: C1225
BCM: B0502, B0507, B2482.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Dennis Roberts

 

Dennis

Your problem seems like the one that I had with my EBTCM. The micro processor was bad. I will research the issue more later tonight but your probably going to need to buy a new module. Better start applying for a LOAN now!!! Its around $700. You can install it your self. It is NOT difficult of time consuming!

Bill

 

why is there a big price difference? From what i can tell, the ebcm for 97's is about 600. For 98's it's around 250 and then after that they are around 550.

 

Bill,

OK, thanks. One other thing, the ABS Activation usually happens when it is damp or rainy out. Otherwise, I always get the ABS/TC warning.

Do you know of a way I could disable the ABS/TC system for now?

Thanks for your help.

Dennis