My Photobucket Account is still active and the pictures should still be there.. Its a VERY large post. Sometimes it takes a while for the pictures to fill in.

BC

 

Bill, I posted code1233, rexbo04, and had some responce and help. I have read about all of your post while troubleshooting a 1233 code on my 04 coupe. If you see the post and what i have done so far, iI have followed all your T/S steps. I did move my right sensor to chassie harness to the left and the code stayed with the right. I have done voltage and resistance checks and replaced both wheel sensors, (i wanted the bearing age to be the same), still no fix. Of course I have the tipical "service ABS" and "service traction system" messages with the associated light on the cluster. My couple of questions are: 1. Does it require a number of drive cycles for the 1233 code to clear? 2. You (I believe) have mentioned retensioning the female connector connections, How is the best way to do that? The one to the WS sensor you can get by replacing the short harness. The one that connects to the main harness would require replacing the ABS wiring harness, I think. Everything in this post regarding the grounds I have done. You put out some great info and I thank you for that. I am just wondering if I can tighten up that one connector and fix this? Any reply you can throw my way I will go do it. Thanks again for you great contributions.

 

Found the connector but couldn't separate the two. I didn't want to break it. Got any gouge on how to separate the halves?

 

Do you have to drain the radiator to move the intake out of the way to remove the oil pressure sensor?

 

No. I didn't, and you should have enough wiggle room do the job.

 

My C5 has never been cleaned. Can I use a pressure washer to clean the engine before removing the intake? Basically, can the electrics handle it?

 

NO NO NO!!! Never pressure wash that engine or engine bay unless you want a new can of worms to play with! I recommend you vacuum the engine with a brush attachment or use a soft brush and brush off as much dirt and grime as you can, then vacumm. Then, maybe even wipe all the surfaces you can get to with a damp cloth, not soaking wet, just damp enough to attract some dirt. Once you move or if you remove the complete manifold...vacuum everthing again below where it sets. All 8 of the intake ports on the heads will be exposed, so be careful not to drop anything into them or push dirt into the openings. Do all this before trying to r/r the sensor. Some of us even tape over the intake ports on the heads to be damn sure nothing drops in there. Clean all the valley area under the manifold before you put it back into position. You'll be okay once you see how it all fits together. Be patient and take your time and it'll be an easy rewarding fix for you. Good luck.

 

Compressed air works very well. I use WD40 to wipe things down. NEVER EVER just slide the manifold forward fix the sensor and just slide it back! When you see all the dirt/sand, you will see why




Rexbo04

I use a metal pick to reform ALL female pins. Give that a try



Here is the one on the frame that gave me a fit. Left is new / right is dead:




Here is a bad door pin;

 

Sorry for my piecemeal questions on removal.
No mention of intake gaskets. Are there any to be replaced? Are they not damaged during removal?
The connector to the injectors. How to remove the wire clip without damaging anything or losing the clip.
All your help is much appreciated.
Thanks much.

 

There are 8 gaskets for the intake, one per port. They should not get damaged when you pull the intake...as for replacing the gasket set, it can't hurt. Buy them from one of the GM parts dealers online...save a few $$ that way.
For the injector harness, push the clip towards the injector and unplug the connector. The clip is installed such that it won't come out. If it doesn't unplug "nicely" make sure that the clip is "even" on both sides...sometimes if you push it more to one side than the other you'll have difficulties unplugging the connector.
Hope this helps...

 

 

Does anyone have a diagram of the grounding system on the 2001 Coupe, or is it pretty much the same as the 98 diagram which is shown in this thread? I have similar issues with starting and the DIC warnings which were posted early in this thread and I would like to check on my ground connectors.

 

I was thinking of using some silicon di-electric on all of my connectors. There are potential problems with doing this so I would like to know if anyone has actually done this. Did it embrittle the wiring insulation or the plastic connectors? This is a very common problem and why *** cable and the phone companies stopped using silicon di-electric compound on their connections.
After replacing thousands of coax-cable ends and cat-5 wires due to the insulation becoming brittle and breaking off I began reviewing some of the miscellany of problems that I have encountered over the years due to silicon compounds.
my first encounter with the embrittlement problem was when I worked as a truck mechanic decades ago and we began using silicone to adhere the rubber gaskets on engine rebuilds. We immediately began a string of expensive returns where the gaskets had squeezed out of place due to the silicon softening the rubber and acting as a lubricant rather than an adhesive. The few engines that didn't suffer almost immediate problems were returned within 5 or 6 months with gasket problems. The same gaskets had become brittle and had actually broken and pieces had fallen out resulting in large leaks.
On the cat-5 and coax outer insulation the embrittlement would extend several inches from the silicon-filled fitting within a year. As soon as the cable was moved the insulation broke off and moisture entered causing signal trouble.
I do NOT know if the wires and connectors on the Vettes are susceptible to this problem. but many plastics are.

 

Well, it is now 2012, and i have stumbled opon this thread.
Just in case you still have the car, i have the same problem with the fuel gauge. It was working fine, then one day i got on the throttle pretty hard, and it stopped working. Then it started again,stoped,started and now has pretty much stopped all together.
The shop said it would cost upwards of $1100 to replace both senders.
Of corse i said no thanks! LOL( just have to set the trip meter at every fill!)
Anyway, should i be checking on some ground problems to fix this?
I dont have any codes come up when i hook my inexpensive CanOBD2 code reader up to it. The shop said they would have to replace both of them, because there was no way to know which one it is. Is this BS???
I have the 97 with 179K miles on it, but the local Vette Man Leo, at Leo's Automotive in Pensacola, Florida(the best Vette specialist anyone could ever meet)-- But i just cleaned my own throttle body,MAF,and filter, because He is breaking me! Lol--- This is why i joined this forum,to learn how to do as much my self as i can,so i can afford to keep Her!LOl
Anyway, Leo said that my engine and tranny was in the shape of a 50k mile car and had alot of miles left on it!( The previous owner told me they had it rebuilt @ 75k, due to their daughter driving Her thru a flooded steet,and She took in water thru the TOO DARN LOW ram-air ports!)
Anyway, i did love the info you took the time to put out there for everyone, and hope you still have the car and hope to here back from you!
Thanks again and hope you have had a good life since 2004!!

 

That was a LONG time ago! Learned a LOT since then.

Have you tried a couple of treatments of CHEVRON TECHRON in the tank?

 

Hi,

Anyone know the GM part number for the Splice Pack. The one located under the battery (pic) ?
Need to replace it due to battery leak.

Henning
2003 Z06

 

Just come across all of this about checking/cleaning grounds.
I have the complete service manual set, but no meams am i a mechanic!
Just trying to save a few bucks and do what i can myself.
Anyway, with that said, I too have a few issues that seem to come and go.
Most of them are just simple things like the seat belt chim works when ever it wants to as does the head light reminder and the fuel gauge also only works when it wants. (but iI have been told,that it is from running 87 octane gas??)Which I am about to suck it up and start putting that darn sky-high priced 93 octane gas it it.Lol
. But now i have a check engine light that has come on after I cleaned the MAF and throttle body.(had to clean due to my son over oiling the K&N air filter-thus oil on the mass air sensor)>>> Be a good idea to make note of this if there is anyone out there about to recharge their filter!
Anyway, before i cleaned it I was able to turn the check engine light off with my OBD machine, (note that it was definatly acting up/bucking/jmping with that oil on the MAF), but still i could turn the light off. So then it came back on a few days later, then i done the cleaning, and now that it is clean and running great, I can not get the light to turn off! It still reads the same code#P0102--MASS OR VOLUME AIR FLOW CIRCUIT LOW INPUT. Just in case this will help-- the car has started jerking hard out of park or reverse but shifts out smooth in all the other gears>Could this have anything to do with that code mentioned? Do you think the air filter oil could have damaged my MAF sensor?
Sorry about jumping around from one proble/question to another. I guess I should have probably submitted two diff post!Lol
Anyway, any help will be greatly appreciated and maybe someone else will come across this and it will keep them from going thru the same thing???
I know this thread is old but didn't know where else to go??I am a rookie! Lol>>> By the way, my car is a 97 AUTO with the following aftermarket items added>>> Cold air intake(not sure of the brand, but it says Vortex on the air filter box??Duh), Borla exhaust, and an old HyperTech Chip of some kind ( all I know about this is that the car came with a CONTROL BOX TO CHANGE THE SETTINGS)Would love to figure out what to do with it, but i guess I will get to that on another post>> I will be lucky, after writing all of this, as long as it is,if anyone out there even has the time to read all of it and probably won't even be able to make any since of it, but hey, I tried! Lol
Thanks for reading,
Chris

 

Dang,Dude!!!
I can't help with the order # but I am gonna be checking mine in my 97 TODAY!!!!
Thanks for the pic!
And if you have time PLEASE read my reply to Bills grounding post, i need some help on this check engine light i cant get to go off/reset!!
Thanks!
Chris

 

Just noticed the pic of the removed intake/ firing chamber area??
I was just told to check/clean 2 filters that are behind this area.(code P0102 coming up on my OBD) Just cleaned the MAF and Throttle Body.Still can't get the reset done>
Does anyone know exactly where i could find these? I don't really even know what they look like, but I don't think i seen either one in the pic posted above.

 

Does anyone know where I can pick up a nice shinny intake at w/o it costing $1k???????