Found the answer:
SP122 part number is 15305291 (same as SP208)
The right SP # located under the battery is 122.
The Ground point is G105.

(correct me if I`m wrong)

 

Have a problem and was wondering what the experts think:

The turn signal will not work at times. When I initiate the turn signal, nothing will flash or click. When that happened one time, I pushed the emergency flasher button and the turn signal worked as normal. Lately, I've been doing that and it hasn't worked so I tap the dash area right above the emergency flasher button.

Any ideas on what I need to do? I'm going to have to take the dash apart, aren't I?

Which leads to me today. I use the turn signal (it worked) and it was flashing really really quick. Okay, no problem, I think, it's just a burned out bulb. It was a burned out bulb, came home from work and replaced the burned out bulb, passenger side DRL. After replacing, I initiate the turn signal and it's still flashing really really quick but the DRL is on.

What gives?

My car is a 2003 Z06, it's been 9 years but it looks like age is starting to catch up!

 

This thread has been huge help to me. Sub'd just for a reference point in the future

 

I'm having an electrical problem on my 2000 vert. with sport seats. I keep getting a motor noise in the driver seat. Not all the time, just once in a while. It seems to come and go, but I can hear it while parked in the garage. I took seat out and checked and cleaned alos greased connectors under and in the seat but it still makes noise. Not sure what to do next. Any suggestions

 

Hey Mr. Henning.........just where in the heck is that grounding point G108 that I read is supposed to be by the battery, under the battery, or somewhere in that area??? I can't figure out where to look. Do I have to remove the battery or ??????. What the heck am I actually looking for...a weatherpack or a screw with a bunch of eyelets attached?? I'd appreciate some help on locating this one. I'm a visual guy and really like pictures of any or all grounding points on my '98. G101 and G102 are no brainer's but not the others to me. Thanks in advance!
Dennis

 

This is G104/108

BC

 

Bill, is there a little nut on that post holding the wires down?? I can't quite tell from your pic. But...thanks anyway for your reply.
Looks like I'll need to pull the battery out to get to it the best way, eh? I'll check it out in the morning.
Dennis

 

Its a 10mm nut on a stud. No need to pull that battery. Easily accessable.
Looks just like this::

 

Bill you are the man. Thanks.

 

fyi......after spending the last 2 hours reading this thread (and I'm not done yet!!), anyone that is asking or replying to a question should include the model year of your C5!!

There are possibly numeous differeneces between my old '98 and other later model years and knowing that can be very helpful.

Thanks for your help!!

 

Hey FixVet I need your help. I have an 01 Roadster, and the gas gauge doesn't work at times, either does the range display when the gauge isn't working. It's just blank. Then it starts working again. Sounds like a ground problem to me, but at the time the fuel gauge isn't working the HUD shows it has fuel.
If there is a fix for this some where in the 60 pages in this thread, please post the link.

Thanks in advance
Dennis

 

As with ANY C5 issue,,,, without you reading and posting the DTCs,, all anyone can do is provide you a GUESS as to the cause of your issue. Read and Post the PCM Codes and it will point you to the cause/s of your issue.

Its most likely a dirty fuel sender issue BUT,, like I stated,, I would be guessing.


Post the DTCs

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!


As stated,, Chevron Techron is what is used to fix most issues.

BC

 

But I live in So Cal in the high Desert. Very dry climate. Can it still be corrosion? I also use Unical, and Chevron all the time.

 

Its NOT caused by moisture or water.. Its a Sulfur deposit issue from the fuel.. Techron in a few consecutive tanks should clear it up if that the issue

 

Thanks Bill. I'll check for codes, and get some Techron

 

The best time to read the DTCs is IMMEDIATELY when the gage goes nuts!



BC

 

 

Bill, great post, thanks, Anthony

 

bill i have 2001 z....my wiper fluid motor will not stop and wipers continously go. i had to pull fuse to stop. anyway that cud be corrosion???

 

If the washers wont stop, that can indicate an issue with the washer BUTTON on the stalk. Check that out first.

BC