It does not matter. The wires are all connected together by the ground buss:



That buss is grounded to the chassis.
Just make sure that the female pins are not spread and make good contact with the male pins.

 

Alright, Thanks for the quick responce. Hopefully this will fix the problem. Because as soon as I get this problem resolved. I get to put on my LG street series headers

 

Bill thank you for advice on cleaning ground connections, I simply losened the bolt shown in your picture cleaned the connection to the frame, could not figure out how to access the connection after removing without damaging so just moved the interior wires around, reconnected no more message re: Service ABS and Active Handling.

 

So I made it all the way through this thread and I can't figure out my problem. My 99 FRC keeps going into reduced power mode, throwing 5-10 codes all at once. It happens both under light throttle or more "aggressive" throttle usage. It seemingly happens at random, such as on smooth roads not due to any bumps. I have taken the front two ground connectors (the ones behind the headlights) out and soldered the wires into one eylet. I also cleaned the main ground near the battery. I haven't touched the ground on the back of the driver's side head yet, but it appears clean, as well as the ground in the passenger side footwell....

While I'm driving at a steady speed with light throttle application, just before reduced power kicks in, i can feel a slight very mild acceleration, without me pressing any harder on the gas, and then it kicks into reduced power. Any ideas? I'm thinking a bad connector somewhere, but I don't havea clue where to look!! If anyone can help I'd be very appreciative!!

Thanks,
Art

 

2004 Z06, was getting :-
HIGH VOLTAGE
SERVICE ABS
SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL

We replaced the battery terminal clamps with new clamps as the original calmps were "loose" and could wiggle them by hand.

No more codes and voltage is now stable. Thanks for all the tips.

 

I'm having the same issues with "Reduced Engine Power", "Service Traction Control", "Service Active Handling", "Low Fuel" but I'll also add that my passenger door power keeps going out (lights go out) so then I can't roll up the window or use the door lock. Also, the radio goes off which also means that I've lost power in the drivers door. If I turn the ignition off and on, the drivers door functions again.

I plan to check the cables to the PCM and clean the ground connectors as mentioned. I scanned a few pages but didn't see what you are using for a cleaner. I also saw something mentioned about penetrating oil.

On another note, a few weeks before, my low beam headlights won't come on. They pop up, but the lights don't come on. If I turn them off, they don't go back down either... unless I flip to the high beams. Then they function alright, I just have to blind everyone. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

alright guys, i need some help here. Ive got an frc, and i have some ignition problems that i'm hoping are just bad grounds. Are their any photos of the ground that goes behind the drivers head on an frc specifically or any detailed instructions on how to get to it. thanks!

 

Check this post

 

I just can't understand what the hell is going on with this!!!

I just spent a couple more hours trying to track this down (unfortunatley with a 1 year old in the house it's hard to find time to sneak off to the garage.) and I'm just as confused as I was a week ago.

I rechecked both grounds by the doors, and then cleaned the ground by the brake lights again. After cleaning the one by the brake lights, the signals operated properly, the brake lights came on, and once again I thought I had the problem sorted......well that was until I noticed that I still didn't have any reverse lights. I tried starting the car and putting it in reverse to see if that would get them working..no it did not,what it did do though was start making the signals act crazy again. So here is the list of symptoms I currently have:

- signals flashing quickly again, however unlike before when the exterior lights wouldn't flash at all they're all now flashing weakly.
- lights flash normally when using hazard lights.
- interior lights still flashing in time with the signals.
- brake lights are working properly.
- no reverse lights (will be buying new bulbs tomorrow to rule that out).

I pulled the codes as well:
10-PCM
P0461H
P1431H

58-SDM
U1040H

AO-LDCM
B2282H
B2284H
B2262H
U1064H

A1-RDCM
B2283H
B2285H
U1064H

40BCM
B2578H
B2583H

At this point I have no idea where to even start looking for the problem, there seems to be so many different systems involved with this problem.

Please help me out, I really want to get my car back on the road, and the last thing I want to do is have to take the car to a shop and drop a couple grand chasing electrical gremlins.

Thanks
Matt

Just thought of something else to add, when I was installing my headers I had to repair badly melted O2 wiring on the drivers side.......I doubt it but maybe I spliced the wires together incorrectly....I doubt this though, because the car runs perfectly.

 

Evening update

Replaced the reverse lights - lights come on when I use the fob to unlock the car, however they don't work when the car is in reverse.

Checked the wiring and pin connectors (both male and female ends) for both doors. (no change)

Removed the harness for the front marker lights and signal lights (at that point I checked the signals and although they were flashing quickly they were working properly). I cleaned all connectors for the marker and signal lights, and replaced one of the signal lights that looked a little questionable. I then plugged the harness back in, and other than the reverse lights not working, everything is functioning properly........have I fixed things?? I don't know, but for the first time since I started having these problems I was able to use the fob to lock the car, without the alarm going off.

I'm going to test things further tomorrow to see if things continue to function properly and will update further.

 

Hello everyone! Newbie here. I have read this thread and it is definitely alot of information to absorb so I will list the issues I have on my 98 Coupe and hopefully I can get some help here.

#1. The dash lights were intermittent for a while and now they are completely off when I turn the headlights on.

#2. The fog lights stopped working and the push switch in the car does not light up anymore when I depress it.

#3. Now my rear tails and rear side markers do no light up when the head lights are turned on. The turn signals, hazards, brake lights and reverse lights work just fine. The headlights both low and high beams work just fine as well.


Your guidance and help will be most appreciated!!!!

Thank you, Jorge

 

so i ain't getting any weird messages or stuff going crazy on me, but i was told to check here...

i just bought a 2000 FRC a few weeks ago (my first vette), and it's never recognized when the driver's door is open. the interior lights stay off, the radio stays on, and i don't get the security light or 'door ajar' message on the gauge cluster. all the buttons (windows, mirrors, etc) work except the lock (which i'd like to get fixed, too, but i don't think that's related). the passenger door & trunk work just fine.

i've taken the boot off the door jamb & checked the wires/connectors & they seem to be fine. no signs of breakage or corrosion & they fit together snugly with all the pins in alignment.

even though they seem to cause more computer issues than physical, i looked at the ground plugs under the hood anyway & they seem to be fine.

i'd like to get this fixed without having a stealership rape my wallet because it gets old having to reach across & open/close the pass door every time i shut the engine off. thanks for all y'all's help

 

Here ya go,,,, Everything that you ever wanted to know about the door!

Power Door Locks Description
Lock/Unlock
The LH door switch circuit provides input to the LH Door Control Module (LDCM) when the switch is pressed to the LOCK or UNLOCK position. This input allows the LDCM to detect a door LOCK or UNLOCK request. The LDCM provides both power and ground to the LH door lock and unlock switches. When the LH door lock switch is pressed, a ground is supplied through the LH door switch to the LH door lock input which is pulled low. When the LDCM detects low voltage on the LH door lock input, the LDCM will LOCK the LH door. The LDCM will also send a message on the serial data line to the RH Door Control Module (RDCM) to LOCK the RH door. When the LH door unlock switch is pressed, the LDCM will UNLOCK the LH door and also send a message on the serial data line to the RDCM to UNLOCK the RH door. The RH door lock and unlock function operates the same as the LH door except when the RDCM detects low voltage on the RH door lock input, the LOCK or UNLOCK message is sent to the LDCM. Both DCMs provide output control to their respective door lock motor based upon a LOCK or UNLOCK switch input or from a message received on the serial data line from the opposite DCM. The DCMs provide both power and ground through CKT 294 and CKT 295 to the door lock motors. The lock and unlock output operation is similar to each other except that the polarity of the voltage applied to the door lock motors is reversed.

Automatic Lock
Press the OPTIONS button until on the AUTO LOCK appears on the DIC display, then press the RESET button to select the following features:

AUTO LOCK-ON
AUTO LOCK-OFF
If the AUTO LOCK-ON feature is selected, the vehicle will automatically LOCK both doors when the transmission is shifted out of PARK (P). In manual transmission vehicles, both doors will LOCK when the vehicle exceeds 10 mph (16 km/h).

The AUTO LOCK-OFF feature will disable the automatic LOCK function.

Automatic Unlock
Press the OPTIONS button until on the AUTO UNLOCK appears on the DIC display, then press the RESET button to select the following features:

AUTO UNLOCK-DRIVER
AUTO UNLOCK-BOTH
AUTO UNLOCK-OFF
If the AUTO UNLOCK-DRIVER feature is selected, the vehicle will automatically UNLOCK the driver door when ignition is turned OFF and the key is pulled OUT of the ignition.

If the AUTO UNLOCK-BOTH feature is selected, the vehicle will automatically UNLOCK both doors when ignition is turned OFF and the key is pulled OUT of the ignition.

The AUTO UNLOCK-OFF feature will disable all automatic UNLOCK functions.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 396646
1998 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette


There a door open/shut switch in the door lock. Its most likely defective/dirty. You will need to remove the lock assy to service/repair those switches.

BC

 

awesome, thanks for your help. looks like i do get to take the door apart. fun.

so to see if the LDCM is malfunctioning (lock button not working), can i switch it with the right one & see if the problem follows, or do i have to do something else?

 

It is definitely the gears. I just replaced my right side gear with Rodney Dickman's brass gear assembly. After reading Junkman2008's post on this forum: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1562077756 it was pretty simple. Just be patient and wait 24 hours for the epoxy to dry. His instructions are quite detailed with photos of every step in the operation.

 

Do you have any additional specific information (photos?) of the other grounding points. I have found the four on the frame rail under the hood and 106 and 108 on the engine but cannot find the others. 107, 201, 202, 301, 302, 401, 402.

Thanks,

 

i can tell you that 201 & 202 are behind the plastic trim in the footwells by the doors. driver's side is basically right under the hood release & towards you a little & the passenger's side is the mirror of that.

 

Paging Mr. Curlee.

Bill as you've no doubt seen in my last few posts, I've got a nasty little electrical gremlin running around the car! I've since gotten my signal and brake lights working properly, and no longer have flashing interior lights. However, I know have a completley dead driver's door....the only thing that seems to be working is the sensor that notes the door is open, and turns on the inerior lights.

My question......do you think this is related to my original problem, or something that I've done whilst poking and proding the door wiring, etc.? Any suggestions on what to check first on this issue?

Thanks

 

Pop out the accordion tube, pull the two door harness connectors up and separate them. Examine the FEMALE pins inside the connectors for damage and being spread apart. Reconnect the connectors and see if that fixes the door issues.

If the doesnt work,,let me know.

Written from my wifes forum account.

In Bowling Green Picking up our NEW 2011 Grand Sport Vert.

Bill Curlee

 

Hey Bill, congrats on the GS!!

I've actually already pulled the accordian tube, and have inspected both the male and female connectors, they seem fine (I actually pried some apart to confirm they were connecting properly) I'll try and have another look tomorrow night to double check everything. I was messing around with these connectors when I was looking for the signal light problem so I may have touched something.