Take a look at the DTCs and reset all Of them. See if that allows the security light to go out.

If that fails, diconnect the battery negative terminal for a minute or two and then recnnect and clear the DTCs.

Hope that helps.

BC

 

Mr. Curlee, as most memebers would agree you have saved us lots of $$$ and headaches and thanks! Your info helped me much! My 1998 C5 has an intemittent no start which appears to be aggravated if i dont use the car for 3 or 4 days. NO codes/repeat NO codes. with the forums help i changed my ignition switch. seemed okay for a few starts on the same day I changed the switch but then problem surfaced again a few hours later- it is a simple: turn key to start and starter wont engage/nothing happens. Since everything is still apart i figured to change the cylinder but have not done this yet. Next is to clean/check all grounds as this seems to be a problem with C5s- one last piece of info (and all the forum members will kick my you know what for this: I do drive on a dirt road (scraped) to get to and from my house about 2 miles of this road each direction. Only other piece of info i could add (also why i think i need to inspect/change/clean all the grounds) is i also get intermittent (but almost only occurs after i hit a bump) service abs or charge system fault message, but again NO codes.

Owe you a beer! Thanks George

 

George

Your issue is most likely your starter solenoid. They do this intermittent start stuff a LOT!

Is your car an automatic or manual?

If its a manual, turn the ignition switch to START and hold it there, then press the clutch all the way to the floor and then let up about an inch. When you let up and press back down you will/should hear a relay click each time you do it, in the passenger foot well. That's the theft deterrent relay. If the relay clicks the secondary side of the relay is working correctly.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...__fuse_box.jpg

Find a 2 foot piece of thin pipe or some rebar and wrap it with electrical tape. When the car wont start, with the help of a flashlight, snake the rod down thru the exhaust manifold and tap the starter/solenoid with the tool. Then try to start it. be careful, there's battery voltage on the solenoid terminals.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t=CIMG0889.jpg

Bill

 

thx Bill- mine however is an automatic:
1998 C5 Convertibile with Z51 auto, Michelin runflats

any directions with this new piece of info

 

My IPC buttons to the right of the wheel the Reset does not work. I bought a new cluster and the same thing happens. The car is reading B1517 as an old code before I swapped them. When I have the cluster out of its din and move the wires nothing happens yet. I cleaned the grounding point under drivers door sill and both under hood no luck. Is my cluster toast?

 

I cleaned most grounds and connectors again today. Reset works now I get code B1517 shrt grn 2 gauges? And now the gauges button seems almost stuck as it continues to cycle through the gauges options even with the dic buttons unplugged. What can I do to correct this? Any advice is appreciated.

 

Bill, first off what a great thread. Reads like an encyclopedia. I've tried to follow it all. i cleaned all the grounds on my 2000 vert. Has 36000 miles. Grounds showed no corrosion but i gave them a cleaning and a spray of corrosion x. However, Just yesterday she acted up again, had battery and alternator checked.said battery was so so and alternator output was not up to par. This morning both replaced. BTW grounds cleaned last week. Today went out to dinner, came out started car, ABS on, service now, reduced speed, no gages , hud shows check gages, radio turned itself off, chimming away,no gages gas etc,tire pressure warnings a/c won;t turn on, l/s door is totally dead no window,lock mirror nothing worked when i hit fob door lock did not function only r/s. I show 31 diff codes all history because after driving 35 min home this way after 4 restartsat home it all goes away. now fine??
10-pcm p1626h
28-tcs u1301h u1016h 38-rtd u1016h
40-bcm u1255h u1096h u1016h 58-sdm u1301h
60-ipc u1255h u1016h u1064h u1040h u1056h u1088h u1176h u1160h
80-radio u1096h u1064h u1016h
99-hvac u1064h u1096h u1160h u1255h
ao-ldcm b2284h
al-rdcm u1255h u1064h u1016h u1096h
ac-scm b2860h u1300h u1255h u1016h u1064h
bo-rfa u1255h u1096h u1064h u1016h
When i cleaned the grounds i cleared all codes thru dic by reset button if that means anything.
Oh, while driving home radio did come on by itself as well as driver window function. Sorry for such a long post just trying to give you as much as possible so hopefully if you will help me you'll know whats going on.
Thanks
Bill

 

pm sent

 

Bill, your one stand up guy
Bill

 

I try hard to be!

 

Bill I have the 98 Corvette with lots of codes. It was doing all the crazy crap you talked about such as windows stop working temp bottoms out also oil pressure doing the same. Abs light on tcs light on A/c stopped working reduce power message. All while driving down the road, after a mile everything went back to working but the security light stayed on. I check the grounds and they seemed to be fine . Codes.C12251,U1016h,C1255h,P1626HC,B0432 ,B0502,B0503,B0507,B0508,B2567,B2593,B27 21,B2723,U1255,U1016,U1096,HVAC codes B0361,B0365,B0367,B0446. The car will not do anything now when I turn the key. I now have reprogrammed the key and the car starts up and runs fine. I reset the codes and the only codes I have now our HVAC codes .The problem is when I lock the doors with the switch (note I do not have a key fob) and let the car set for a while the car will not start unless I reprogram the key again. Now the security light stays on. I checked the BCM and it is not wet and shows no signs of any type leak. What do I do now Do you think it may be the anti theft system and if so how do I check it

 

Hi Bill, After our conversation i fished the plugs out of the door hinge pillar area after pulling out the accordian boot. the plug with the 8 or so smaller connectors looked okay but i cleaned it the best i could and corrosion xed it. The other plug has 6 or so wires. When i looked into the female side of the other plug the black (ground?) and orange(power?) (both larger wires) the bent contact tangs were so compressed i could have fit 2 or 3 connectors into each one. I removed each wire from the connector and with jewlers screw driver and a dental pick rebent the tangs to close up the connections. After i saw this i went and did the other door. same problem but not quite as much wiggle room in the connector. Go figure. Took car on 1 hr highway trip. no issues. 2 short trips over back roads. no problems. Got my fingers crossed on my repair. You nailed that one Bill.Tried to get new connectors from chevy only can get complete plugs with short pig tails. Guess they figure just to splice the wires. Any sources for wire ends,male and female.
again many thanks. I'll keep informed of progress.
Thanks
Bill

 

Well Done on the repair!!! Now you can drive ERROR FREE and know it's repaired correctly.! CANT BEAT FREE either!!

BC

 

Bill , mean't to ask a question. The more i look in the shop manuals and the codes pulled show a common thread on more than a few. this whole system reminds me of the old telephone party line system. It seems if one goes down they all take a hit. How interdependent are they. I'll be at corvettes at carlisle at end of month. Makes for some good questions in c5 trouble shooting seminar.
Thanks again
Bill

 

That would be an interesting question. There are specific problems that effect NUMEROUS systems or cause numerous DTCs. Its too broad of a topic to give one answer.

You have seen my post on ignition switch issues. Thats one area that effects NUMEROUS components and circuits and causes many random DTCs

Another is the Class II serial data system corruption. It can causes every light and alarm and gage to spaz out or it can just effect specific things like a door module. Depends on how it fails and when.

I attend that lecture each year. It's fun!
I have a serious electrical and electronic troubleshooting background. I also use common sense and experience. Using all that helps solve some of the most complex and deep electrical issues these cars can dish out.

BC


Paul is an excellent mechanic and one of only the people that I would NOT be afraid to have work on any of my Corvettes but,,, he has to follow the GM Line! I repair stuff that he has to replace.

BC

 

Hi Bill,

My '01 C5 is sick, and currently in the hands of the dealer.

I've had the random problems with the REDUCED ENGINE POWER, SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING, CHECK TIRE PRESSURE, etc.. idiot lights on occasion over the past year or so. It seemed to usually be the harness in the passenger side door that was loose. But it wasn't that bad because the car still drove fine and these were just a minor, annoyance... until this morning.

I was on my way to work and all the idiot lights lit up, but went away within a few seconds. Then, about minute later, all of the needles on the gauges went to zero, and the HUD display just showed a dash. I have never seen this before. Then another minute later (after I made a turn and hit a decent bump in the road) all the idiot lights came back on and the car died and wouldn't start again.

I had it towed to the dealer who just called me about it. They're saying the BCM is toast, and saying it looks like it may have gotten wet. They're saying they can't communicate with it at all. They want ~$1100 for the part, and $400 labor to put it in (including the 1.5 hrs I'm on the hook for already).

I see the same part is $750 from Gene @ GM Parts House. Is the BCM something that can be installed somewhat easily by a novice mechanic like myself? Or does it have to be "synced" using only dealer only tools.

A $1500 repair is not what I had thought this issue was.

I really appreciate your help.

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO,,,,,,,, NOT THE STEALERSHIPS! I see money dripping out of your wallet

If I were you I would get the car back, and this repair cab be repaired in your driveway!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FOR FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All you need to do is dry out the BCM, fix the leak (HVAC DRAIN) and your DONE!

Call me if you need to but "I" would NOT give the STEALERSHIPS NOTHING!

That much cash for a module change out is criminal.

YES,,, you can emergency sync the BCM to PCM and get the car to run. If you have a bunch of factory RPO's they will need to be installed in the BCM later after the replacement. No big deal That takes a TECH II.

Its your money but,,,,,,,,,,, I would not give it away!

BC

 

I agree, it is criminal.

If you're confident that will work, then I'll gladly have it towed back and have you walk me through what to do. The dealer seemed confident that the BCM was toast and they couldn't get any sort of signal to/from it, so they say.

I searched around and can get a BCM for $450 on ebay, and with dealer labor the total comes down to $750.

I'll PM you my cell # and if you could call me anytime after 8am PST I'll be sure to answer.

On the sync issue, I was talking to a buddy of mine about that, and here is what he said.

Thanks for all your quick help, if I can get this thing started again for very little cash I'd be ecstatic.

One more thing, my AC stopped working just 2 days ago. I have the dual zone auto system, and I think the blower module control is out. No matter what temp it's set on, whatever fans speed setting I have it on it hardly moves any air. From what I've read so far, both the BCM and the blower module control are both down in the passenger footwell. Could these two things be related?

 

Sorry to say,,,, your buddy with EFI Live cant help you. NOTHING but the TECH II can communicate/intergate with the BCM.

But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, All is NOT lost. You can make the BCM/PCM work together. Its easy

BC

 

Appreciate any additional input on following; I get the ServiceAH, etc, on DIC but after seeing
this many times it only happens when I'm getting higher than normal output on charging
system. Battery was very old, replacement OEM battery from under warranty and about
six years old, tested with bad cell so replaced. Then problem continued and diagnosed
as bad replacement alternator since that had internal voltage regulator, ok for a week
then returned again but intermittant. Goes away for week or more than then returns for
a few episodes and goes away again. Car is 02 coupe with 107k miles, but about 12k
of those are track miles over 5 years from '03 to '07, very high temps. Grounds on WSS
have been checked. Output on DIC from voltage reading usually stays 13's or 14's but
at times it tops in low 16's but has gone above 16.5, where I think I get "high voltage"
msg. I did look through tutorial on AH/ABS issues but saw nothing similar so I
don't think this is ABS, AH system caused, it is electrical and setting off those codes.
Thanks, Randy