Mike

I have a very detailed ignition switch repair post. I think that your having an ignition switch that is starting to fail. Like I stated previously, battery circuit codes are not good!

Ive seen too many people lately who's C5 died and wont run cause the ignition switch failed. Check out this post:

- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

 

OK...got info off the 2004. Lots of codes. B1542H, B0516H,U1160H. These were in the BCM section. Then in HVAC,there were U1160H, B0361HC, B0367H. LCDM had B2252H, B2282H, B2284H, B2262H, B2264H, U1064H. RDCM had B2283H, B2285H, U1064H. SCM had B0851H, B0856H. I cleared the codes then the HVAC system came up with the following codes that I could not get rid off: B0361H, and B0441H. Still there now. The voltages read OK...Battery 14.0, inside the car read 13.7, alt output 14.3, batt + to alt output read 0.28v. Small red wire with battery power was 14.18. Small red wire that turns on the alt was only 8.35v though. Thought that was too low. Still wonder about the "U" codes. On a side note, my wifes 2001 did something funny today after I cleared all the codes out yesterday. At initial start up she got a "charge fault" on the dash readout. Then just went away. First time for that. And after bragging how it acted perfectly!!! Whew...these cars!!!! Mike

 

While I haven't gotten to the chassis grounds yet, I have addressed the ground blocks under the hood. I cleaned as instructed, although mine didn't show signs of corrosion and am still having the following problem. Intermittently, I'm getting engine power failure codes, gauges dropping to zero and/or spiking to maximums and the most frustrating is the passenger window doesn't always go down when I push the release to pop the hatch and lower the conv. top. After numerous key cycles, the passenger window will roll down but then won't roll up. Sometimes that's the only problem and sometimes it happens in sequence with the engine codes. Other times, everything works great. I've also recently replaced the battery with a factory Delco battery. What are the BCM and TAC's that are spoke of in the posted forum. Any ideas will be appreciated. I've only owned the car two weeks and am becoming disappointed by the minute. Thanks,

 

BK

after reading your statement " After numerous key cycles, the passenger window will roll down but then won't roll up. " I will recommend that you check this post out and make your own decision on if you should follow the procedure:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Without taking some voltage readings,,,,it just a guess but a very logical one. This is becomming a very common issue.

ONCE you get the issues fixed,,,,,you will fine this car is WICKED COOL!

Bill

 

Found a site...OBD-Codes.com that had a list of codes including "U" codes. Seems they are communication failures. U1300,U1301, and U1305 are stated as "Class 2 data linc shorted". Maybe related to the door jamb issue Bill has helped with. P codes are power train,B codes are body and C codes are chassis. Guess I need a manual. Mike

 

bm - I had the same issue about a year ago. Bill was a great help. I finally found a GOOD repair shop in the area. The culprit - one of the 'tangs' on one of the terminals from the door harness had worked it's way down. According to the repair guy, this caused a communication error between the door module and the BCM. The BCM 'sees' this voltage irregularity and goes into reduced power mode.....and basically lights everything up like a Christmas tree, and your car has a "stroke"

Check your terminals

 

Hi Bill
Awesome post here. After reading every post in this thread I think that I might have an idea of what to look for. I have a 99 vert that I get an intermintent check engine light. When I run the codes I get a P0137 which if I'm right is the O2 sensor for the right bank behind the cat. Thinking it was the sensor but not wanting to buy one unless it's necessary, I changed the two sensors behind the cats from one side to the other thinking that it would now throw a code for the other bank. Not, I still get the same code. So now I'm assuming that it is more than likely the connector that has a bad connection in it. I've seen this code mentioned only once in this thread and am wondering if I'm headed down the right road to fixing this? Only other thing I can think of checking is the connectors to the PCM, as when I bought the car 3 years ago it had a dead battery and the stealership changed it before I picked it up and at that time I didn't know about the battery leaking issue so it's never been checked.
As a side note why does everyone say to run the diagnostics with the key on and engine off? I've cleared this particular code quite a few times as I was driving down the road, I guess I'm so used to it I just clear as soon as it comes on anymore. Thanks for any info you can give me.
Bob

 

Bob

If you suspect that the connector is bad, check the female pins using a spare MALE pin. This is the one I use::



The heater circuit for that sensor has a ground that MUST be 100% good. Chassis ground G-103 (below the brake master cylinder on top of the frame) is a stud / eyelet type ground. From that ground theres a braded wire that goes to G-105 (drivers side of the engine block above the oil filter housing. ) make sure that those grounds are clean and tight.

NEXT

With the key in the ON position (engine not running) read the voltage on fuse :

Under hood fuse center, Mini fuse# 15, OXY SEN.

There are to small test points on top of the fuse. Measure that to ground. It should be the same as the voltage on the battery terminals.

Clean those grounds, Post those readings.

Bill

Bill

 

OK Bill I cleaned the all the grounds in the engine compartment and to be honest they were spotless and tight to begin with, I did however solder all the ring terminals just for insurance. The battery voltage measured 12.29 volts and the fuse measured 12.15 volts not sure in that will make a difference. The connector to the fuse box is also clean and tight.
Bob

 

Can you tell me where to look for the "tangs" on the door harness? Is the door harness inside the boot near the hinge or somewhere else???

Never mind, just found the problem after reading the suggestion by ALPHAKNIGHT34. Sure enough, when I unplugged and reconnected both harnesses running through the boot to the passenger door, all my symptoms went away. Thanks also to Bill Curlee for his wonderful post on the ignition switch. I followed his suggestions on the grounds and ignition switch refinishing of the contacts and found three contacts burnt. One was at least 75% burnt and now that they are clean and the harness on the door nice and tight it's time to have some fun.... These cars are finikee aren't they???

 

WAY TO GO!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

HI to you all i am posting this here cos i am lost please if you think my problem is related help me out thanks

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...ease-help.html

DIC codes
PCMP0300 engine mess fire detected (pending) current (immature)
and
unknown u1096 loss of comunecation with IPC ( history ) (imature)


PLEASE HELP ME , now i am in a big dilemma and i am lost , while the car is on the dyno and i am WOT to do a tune the car starts very smooth and accelerates great all the way up to about 4K RPM and some times 5K RPM and it cuts in a very strange way you can have a look at the video here under at the minute 1:01
You can see that something very strange happens and the check engine comes on for a moment and then disappears ?????????????????? :bang:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc3AiiiHO1k

Some thought was to a faulty Crank sensor, some a faulty Camshaft sensor, and some to faulty MAP sensor , when i did the DTC with the HP tuner it showed a miss fire but not permanent HELP

Here in video 2 you can see the tacho meter bouncing at about 5Krpm or so but the car did not CUT like it did the last couple of times but the tach bounced any gusses any takes HELP PLEASE

thanks


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gE9ae...layer_embedded

 

Make SURE that your PCM TUNE does not have a cut off at the speeds that your able to go. Check the Column Lock Fuel cutoff value. Switch to MPH and see what the speed of cut off is.

- Does the engine shut down completely or just miss a beat?

- If you run the engine up thru first, second, third and forth to red line on the tach, does it do the same thing??

If you just rev the engine to red line on the tach does it cut out.

Im trying to see if its speed or RPM dependent.


If the fuel is not being cut by the PCM, here are a few more things to check.

Next to the BCM (The left side) there are two thin Grey connectors. Those are the Class 2 serial buss STAR connectors.




All of the module serial communications go thru those connectors. Find the connector with three or four wires and remove the top of the connector. Its a shorting bar that connects all the wires together.

That connector controls the Left door control module, Right door control module and the seat control module, There are known issues in those wiring harness connectors. With that connector disconnected, those modules will be out of the circuit and we can eliminate that issue from the problem.

Check those things and get back to me.

 

Bill. I really appreciate all of your information, especially the body ground info. I plan to try to clean up all of mine. I have a 2002 convertible that I bought in 2004 with 3K miles. It now has 108K. I live in KY and drive it year round, so I'm sure I'm as prone to the corrosion you pictured as anyone.
I have a specific question, however. I'm having the infamous intermittent turn signal/emergency flasher problem. Since it only happens when there's a lot of moisture in the air, and goes away later in the day when the sun has warmed the car up, I'm guessing I've got an issue with the body ground where the turn signal flasher is grounded.
Can you point me to this particular body ground, as that is the one I'd like to attack first, especially with the NCM 15th Anniversary Caravan and Museum Celebration coming up next week. Hate to have to be giving hand signals all the way to Bowling Green.
Thank you.
Frank Hamilton

 

Bill, thanks again for the info. I checked the connectors and they seem to be ok. Here's what's happening:

When I start the car, the code C1241 is there. But, after I drive for a little while (the time and speed varies) the warning lights start flashing (Service ABS, Service Active Handling, Service Traction System) and the following two codes come up:

C1228 - RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1235 - RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted

I'm wondering if the warning lights have nothing to do with the C1241. When I took it to the stealership, they wanted to repair the steering gear coil. I wonder if something else is causing the warning lights?

Do you have any other recommendations? Could I have a RR wheel bearing issue?

Thanks.

 

DTC C1241 MAGNA STEER Circuit Malfunction

Un-plug and inspect the MAGNASTEER coil connector. Make sure its clean and damage free. Other than that take a resistance reading on the coil. Im at carlisle and dont have access to my service manuals.

The wheel speed sensor is pretty much pullet proof. The connector however, sucks. The female pins spread and loose contact with the male pins and thats why you get those DTCs.

Heres a bad and good connector. The one on the right is really bad!!!:



Check those female pins!

BC

 

Have a 2000 C5, my turn signals sometimes do not work. Cannot cause it to happen to try and resolve. Very random. Have tried with full electric load and cannot duplicate. Emergency flashers work with no difficulty. Any suggestions.
Thanks

 

hey bill i may need a little assistance to with my car i have an 01 zo6
recently been giving me alot of electrical trouble. ok here goes my memory for my key fobs goes nuts when i get in the car no matter how many times i reset it always the same thing the drivers mirror just goes straight up my i keep getting a 1431 code and my fuel gauge will randomly drop to complete E. also my blinkers will randomly not work but i hit the hazzard switch and it will twitch then work then my blinkers will work but right after that first twitch my active handling light is on also the other day my car was runnin like a dog had no power than above half throttle it took off foun d that my maf boot had come loose and had an air leak today the same thing had happened but no leak and everything was tight now it just runs like crap its really irritating i drive the car alot has 103k on it only code i get is po103 and po1431 any help would be GREATLY

 

hey bill i may need a little assistance to with my car i have an 01 zo6
recently been giving me alot of electrical trouble. ok here goes my memory for my key fobs goes nuts when i get in the car no matter how many times i reset it always the same thing the drivers mirror just goes straight up my i keep getting a 1431 code and my fuel gauge will randomly drop to complete E. also my blinkers will randomly not work but i hit the hazzard switch and it will twitch then work then my blinkers will work but right after that first twitch my active handling light is on also the other day my car was runnin like a dog had no power than above half throttle it took off foun d that my maf boot had come loose and had an air leak today the same thing had happened but no leak and everything was tight now it just runs like crap its really irritating i drive the car alot has 103k on it only code i get is po103 and po1431 any help would be GREATLY appreciated sorry for the bad grammer in a hurry also will read through post more and will check and clean all my grounds thanks

 

im also showing codes for c1295 and b0333 along with p1431 and p0103. I cleaned the grounds and nothing has changed do you think my maf is going bad. my oil pressure sensor is reading 130psi but i just replaced it
im lost