Out of the blue, the starter will not work. Not even a click. By accident I found that removing the battery cable for a few seconds and reconnecting it, the starter works and the engine fires. Once the engine is turned off it's the same. The starter will not work until removing power and reconnecting. I have cleaned the two front gounds, althought I was unable to disassemble the connector and just sprayed it with contact cleaner from the back side, but I did sand the other parts. I do get continuity from that ground to the battery.
Can you help to further isolate my problem. Your help is most appreciated.
Thanks

 

My C5 will not start. It doesn't even click. Removing the battery for a few seconds allows the car to start. but then it won't start again.
I cleaned the two fron ground connectors. They looked fine, but no change in starting.
Any ideas?

 

My charging voltage is all over the place, in addition to having doors that lock "sometimes". I was going to pull the door modules, but can't get my mind around both the driver and passinger sides being bad. I'm thinking it might be a ground issue!

Any thoughts? which grounds should I look at? Maybe the negative end of the battery connector is loose? BTW, the battery is NEW!

BTW, no codes or anything..

 

Bill can you tell me where the ground is for the right rear position sensor. After trailering my 2001 through 4 hours or heavy rain I started throwing an RTD code 0630 C - wont re-set. Thanks for your help.

 

Those sensors DO NOT ground to the chassis. They have a sensor reff power wire and signal wire that goes straight to the control module thru a connector.

Recommend that you unplug the connector and take a resistance reading on the sensor. Make sure that you disconnect its arm and move it thru it entire range and see if there something wrong with the variable resistor.

See if you have a reff voltage at that connector

make sure that the connector female pins are not damaged , corroded or spread out making poor contact on the male pin.

BC

 

I answered a post on things that can cause the C5 to draw excessive current from the battery when the car is OFF.

So, I put together all of the things that I have seen cause excessive current draw and some recommendations on chasing down the issue:

Without conducting a current draw test,,,your not going to be able to figure out your issue. Connect the 0-10 DC Amp meter in the Negative battery cable circuit and let the BCM turn all the other circuits off and then go into sleep mode.

Things that Ive seen cause this issue are:

- Bose Amp relay
- Head light control module
- Seat control multifunction switch not returning to center (Drivers and or passengers seat) The seat motors have a thermal resetable fuse/breaker that resets its self. If a motor is stuck it will run and shut off until the battery dies.
- Seat side bolster motor/pump
- Interior lights turned to ON
- Hood light staying on when hood is shut
- Aux equipment added to the vehicle remaining ON
- RAP relay malfuction
- Ignition switch malfunction. Internal contacts welded shut and powering a HOT in On and ACC circuit
- HVAC Control module malfunction allowing the blower to run intermittently.
- Alternator diodes bad allowing it to draw current

Whew,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I think I got everything

Remember! You can UN-PLUG big things to eliminate them from the problem. Things like:

- Drivers and or Passengers Seat
- Door Control Modules
- Alternator
- Aux installed equipment

The value that your looking to see is right around 20 milliamps

BC

 

Oh jesus. All this electrical stuff is kind of intimidating to a Corvette newbie.

Nothing at all like Camaros. I've got a lot to learn before I even buy a Vette in the future, considering it will be used.

 

Even though the C5 has a few more electrical circuits,,,,,,the Camaro is just as complex and has its own unique issues. The Camaro DOESNT have corvette FORUM!

BC

 

Bill,

I have a post on Page 38 that has been there awhile. If you get a chance, can you respond.

Thank you.

Frank Hamilton

PS Were you in BG for the 15th Anniversary of the NCM?

 

Frank

Page 38?????? Of this post???? Please explain and I will post a reply. Im not seeing the page your speaking of.

No, I did not attend the 15th Anniversary of the NCM. I even missed the cruise in this year. God willing and the creek dont rise, I be there next curise in.

Bill

 

Post number 755 in this thread. I'm seeing it on page 38 of this thread.

Thank you.
Frank Hamilton

 

I have been studying this bible of a thread to sort out my own problems and have some input.

Thanks to Bill Curlee and other prudent info available here, I have solved my problem........I hope.

It all started when my FOB stopped working (01 Z06), everything else seemed to be normal. Next day everything started to go haywire.

To keep this short and to the point, after following recommendations in this thread, it turned out that the two black plastic POS ground connectors in the front were part of the problem, I cut the connector out and tied all to a nice eyelet and grounded back to the stud.

That took care of some issues but the fob still did not want to program, NO COMM.

Next the battery would start the car, but after checking it with a load it only was at 8 volts on start up, new battery installed.

Then checked the alternator, it was only putting out 25amps max at any RPM, although it was putting out aprox 13.6 volts. New alt.

So to sum this up, make sure you have clean good grounds, good fresh full charged battery and good output of volts and amps on the alt, or you will get all those computers in a tizzy!

It has been about a week so far and I am still up and running just fine.

Thanks to all who contribute to this thread!

 

Bill thanks for the reply. I had my mechanic take a look at this and found that the sensor was fine - he compared to the left side and they were identical - both were getting 8v from the reff pwr wire. However when he checked the circuit from the plug through the ESC and back he found 8 volts going in but only 3 coming out on the right side (which has the C code) on the left it was 8 in and out. Didn't have any more time to chase it today. Do you have any other suggestions short of replacing the module or scrapping the whole F45 system (which I may do at a later time). Thanks - your sharing of knowledge is greatly appreciated.

-Shane

 

Shane

You need to remove the sensor from the chassis. Once its removed you can operate it thru it range and that will allow you to see the entire sensor output.

The sensor has THREE wires.

- Reff Voltage, 8 volts DC (Red / Black wire)
- Low Reff, light green / black
-Signal output, light green /white stripe

Plug the sensor into the connector and with the key in RUN (engine off) back probe the sensor signal output wire (light green /white stripe).

Move the sensor arm thru its full arc of movement. The sensor out put voltage should be: 0.35 to 4.75 VDC

Measure the low reff wire (light green / black stripe) with an ohm meter to chassis ground. You should see 5 ohms or less.



BC

 

Tks Bill. Sensors tested out fine. Thought I had this licked when we found the signal output wire had worn through due to the harness being installed too tight and wearing against a brake line block. Soldered it back together and heat shrunk the connection. Cleared the code and all seemed to be well, but when driving last night I checked the codes again and sure enough the 0630 was back - seems to be throwing it intermitantly now and I'm no longer get the "Service" msg on the DIC. Now I'm really stumped

 

Today the check engine light went on. When I pulled the codes it showed PCM P0420 H C. This happened previously about one year ago. The dealer said that it needed a new catalytic convertor, about $1500. After hunting for information I reset the code and disconnected the battery. This worked, at least for a year. In researching the forum again I found that the code can be caused by the catalyst, exhaust tube, intake air leaks, fuel injector leaks, spark plugs and ignition timing. Is there anything in the electrical system or grounds that could also be at fault? It is a 2001 coupe with 44,550 miles, Var-a-ram system. Thank you for any help.

 

Hey Bill,
Thanks for all your input and advise on the C5 electrical issues. I have an 04 Z06 that killed the battery one day at work (5 months ago). I tested the bettery, the alternator, I used a multi meter and determined that I had a 5.6 Amp drain that dropped to a 3.35 Amp drain after 1/2 hour. I partially located the drain to the #25 fuse to the BCM, but pulling that fuse only dropped it to a 1.6 Amp drain. I checked all of the aftermarket connections to my ATI Trackmem and the radar. Still, I couldn't find the drain. Following your advice, I took apart the ignition switch and cleaned it. That didn't help either. I gave up and just worked on the other stuff, (a new clutch, d/l bushings, DTE Brace, etc.). Then yesterday I took the car for a late night test drive and noticed the dome light was on. The DOME LIGHT! I never checked that, but sure enough, that was my battery drain. At least that mystery is solve. I guess I just re-learned the age old K.I.S.S. Method, (Keep It Simple Stupid).

 

Now that there is FUNNY! Good job finding your own issue!

BC

 

Your best bet is to find someone in your area that has EFI Live or HP tunes and see if they will data log your car. Data Logging will provide you a wealth of knoledge on how your engine is running and what is wrong with it. There are many people in your area that have the capability, you just need to find them. PS,,,,Data Logging is FREE.

BC

G

 

Bill thank you for the information. Will the dealer data log for free (generally)? I live in the area northwest of Phoenix if you would have any suggestions please let me know. Also I notice that when the car idles at a light it will sometimes surge or idle rough. Thank you.