YES,,,theres suppose to be a eyelet type ground wire there. The wire with an eyelet is the GROUND WIRE for the EBTCM. Make sure that its clean and the chassis area where the eyelet contacts is clean and paint free.

BC

 

Bill,

Thanks for the verification. I'll make sure the contact area is clean.

Frank

 

This first photo is the one posted earlier in this thread and mentions that the black & white wires are the ground for G-107...



Here are two photos I just took of the same area on my car. Can you tell me where the ground wires are? I am not seeing any black & white wires?

 

Here is a picture that shows the bolt in the back of the drivers side cylinder head. You can't see from this angle on a normal C5, this was taken of a rolling chassis without a body. The picture is from Bill Curlee (as I recall.)

 

Thanks for the clarification... I will see if I can feel it back there!

 

Whats going on
I got c1255
ABS and TC lamp is on
How can I fix that.

The warning lamp is off when I start the car,
but after some miles the abs and tc lamp going on.

My english is not so god, but I hope understand mi.

 

Fotograf2

Your English is MUCH better than my Swedish Vocabulary! (ZERO)

We understand you fine!

I am assuming that you have a rear mounted (Electronic Brake Traction Module ) EBTCM. It will be located behind the differential. Here is what a rear mounted unit looks like::





The Electronic Brake Traction Module microprocessor will reset each time you turn the ignition off an back on. Then it runs test and looks for faults. Once it finds a fault, it sets a DTC.

The 1255 DTC means:

DTC C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction

When DTC C1255 is displayed on the Scan Tool, it will be followed by two more numbers which should be noted along with any other DTCs that may be displayed. The additional two numbers displayed with DTC C1255xx are for aiding engineering to determine the cause of the internal malfunction.
Make sure the integrity of the connection between the EBTCM and the BPMV is secure, tight, and free from corrosion.

I recommend that you separate the ELECTRONIC side of the module from the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve. It is easily separated and reassembled. Inspect the electrical connectors that connect the two modules. Look for burnt connections and or corrosion. Reassemble and test drive the car and see if the problem still exists.

Clear the DTCs and see if it comes back. There is a ground wire on the EBTCM motor that needs to be checked. It grounds the motor to the frame. The Chassis Ground connector in in the drivers rear wheel well on the frame:



Also check the main module connector and the pins inside the module for corrosion, bent pins and improper connections.
Its a CAM LOCK connector and you need to pull the handle to rack the connector out of the module.




Hope you understand all of this.

Bill C

 

It siting in the front.

 

That means you have a FRONTED MOUNTED EBTCM and the same type of troubleshooting and maintenance is necessary for it also. I would seperate the module from the BPMV and check the electrical connections inside the module and in the connector. There is also a ground wire on the BPMV Motor that needs to be checked and cleaned if it is corroded. Be careful when removing the wire. Hole the inner nut with a thin wrench when removing the outer nut. Soak the connection with penitrating oil befor removing the nut.

The ground wire goes over to Chassis Ground G-101 as an eyelet type ground under the connector ground terminal.

If cleaning and inspecting the module doesnt fix the issue,, you need to send it to ABS Fixer or replace it with a new module.

BC

 

OK Forum, I need your help.
My C5 has had a 'stroke', and is now in need recovery. Here's some background

About 2 months ago while driving under normal conditions, the DIC showed "Reduced Engine Power", the fuel gage went to zero, airbag light came on, tire pressure monitor gave an error message, "Service Traction Control" display also showed on the DIC, and window and lock on the passenger side would not function.

I immediately stopped. Turned the car off. Waited about a minute, and turned her back on. Everything went back to normal. I had a similar incident about a year ago when my battery was about to go dead. I concluded (wrongly I think) that I had left something plugged in the cigarette lighter for a while when my car was parked. So drove it a little extra, to hopefully charge the battery some

About a week later I had the same incident.

A few days later, I went to start the car....nothing. I jumped it, and let it idle. Then tried to start it again. Nothing. I was now pretty sure it was the alternator. I jumped it again then tried to drive down the street. Everytime I came off the clutch, the engine would die. Even if I dumped it, it would just stop. My thinking then was that somehow, the car did not have enough "juice" to keep the car idle high enough for me to get in gear.

Fast forward to now. I had the car "flatbeded" to a local garage (my local Chevy dealer sucks, and wanted to charge me double for an alternator). They replaced the alternator, drove it down the street and thought it was good to go. When I try to drive it, I get the same error messages I had two months ago, plus the car would "die" when I tried to put it in gear. I literally had to start the car, and feather the clutch and gas 20 times to get it back to the garage.

When the garage hooked there OBD devive to the car, it reported that the theft deterrent system was engaged. The thought then was that the battery had a bad cell, and was giving insufficient voltage the the ECM and other systems, making them act erratically. Since the battery (Diehard Gold) was still in warranty, I decided to try to make it to Sears. After disconnecting the battery, hoping that the theft system would reset, I made it to Sears. They show the battery is fine. Meanwhile, anytime I try to drive more than 2 miles, I get the dashboard "Christmas tree", along with Reduced Power. Futher, if a shut it off, I get the same "dying in gear" syndrome. And the passenger side lock and window still dont function.

Pulled some DIC codes. All are history (end in H)
TCS 1301, 1287 and 1288
BCM 0432, 0502, 0507, 7981, 2521, 2482, 1255, 1016, 1096
a few other others, but notably, a "no communication" code ( I think this was the RDCM...go figure)

I was able to get the car home, but it won't get far. And it won't get there fast

I'm checking all the ground connections, as this sounds like the prime suspect


Thoughts????
BCM issue?????
Electrical fault????
Loose connections????

 

Ok gang here goes! My passenger side blinker started going hyper-active and my running light would not come on except when the headlamps were on so I thought I had a bulb out. Well after checking the Amber bulb and discovering it was ok, I found a smaller 194 bulb that was burned out. I replaced it and everything was back to normal other than my running lights were not on unless they were manually turned on. But the blinker was working at normal interval and flashing in the front. However my joy was short lived. After going home I shut the car down and later started it back up to run an errand and low and behold the problem had returned. I am lost!!!! Any suggestions?

 

This is a great post and will hopefully solve my intermittent problem but thought I'd throw it out here as I didn't see anything directly related to my problem. I'll definitely be checking the grounds tonight anyways but. A while back I started having a problem with the head lights not wanting to come up when I turned them on, but usually by the second or third time of off/on cycles they would pop up. Aggrevating but not critical. Well it started to get more frequent lately and also every now and then the windshield wipers would just start working for no reason. So one day when it happened I noticed that when I turned the headlight switch off and on until the headlights worked, that the wipers turned off. So figured the gremlin was connected. Is there a common ground for this circuit that would be causing this? Now over the weekend I went out and the wipers started up again, did the headlight trick....nothing, didn't solve it. SO then while messing with the stalk thinking it might be loose and hitting the flluid every so often so I didn't have to listen to the dry wipers on windshield, the washer button popped out, spring disappears, so now the fluid drains out in a about 30 seconds as the pump runs nonstop. Thankfully I was 5 minutes from house and its been parked since then. Turn car on, and wipers and pump are still on. I'm sure the pump will be fixed when I can find the spring to reassemble the little pump switch. Thoughts other than cleaning grounds? Thanks in advance.

 

While driving my dic shows door ajar, the chime rings and interior lights flash. When parked and the doors are locked the theft deterent alarm goes off intermittently. I checked both accordian connectors in each door, cleaned the pins and tightened up each pin connector. Still does the same thing. Any idea what else could trigger the alarm while the car is parked?

 

Lots of good info, didn't have time this morning to read it all. I have a 98 Coupe, this morning as I got in to go to work was hearing a clicking noise in right rear. Sounded like switch kicking on and off, made noise all way to work. When out at lunch not making noise, went to start as leaving work and had low voltage, but started. Ran about 12.5 to 12.9 on the way home. About half way home noticed a little smoke coming out around pass seat and console. Made it home, found battery connection a little loose. I don't have any sense of smell, had a friend smell and he said there was a electrial smell. Hope this makes sense, late night and early morning. Any idea what to check first. Thanks Jim

 

Do you have a powered passengers seat?? If so, sounds like the multifunction switch is stuck ON, The circuits are protected by a resetable breaker that prevents overheating and resets its self. Thats the first thing that I would check.

BC

 

Bill, Can you tell where ground points #201 and #202 are located?
Thanks Frank

 

Sure can! It will cost you!

You need the remove the forward Sill Plate Cover
in the door way of each door. They just pull up and are retained by metal clips.

Once you remove the sill plate covers, the grounds are located here on each side of the car:





Remember to completely disassemble the ground connector to correctly clean it:







BC

 

Bill

I have a couple of questions, maybe you can help.

I have an 02 Z06 and the car is not starting. The DTC's I am getting are DTC P0351-P0358.

I am looking at the troubleshooting documentation for these codes and one of the steps says:

- Connect a test lamp to B+ in order to probe the ground circuit of the Ignition Coil

Do you know what B+ is?

Also, do you have a wire schematic of the coil system?

I am looking for:

1. The ignition control circuit
2. The Ignition 1 voltage circuit

Thanks
Jason

 

B+ is actually 12 VDC hot at all times or BATTERY VOLTAGE. SCHEMATIC,,,,,you need to send me or PM me your E-mail address and I will send it to you. If I attach it here i have to up load it to photobucket.

You would do better learing how to use and read a digital volt meter. Test lights if not used correctly can be confusing and inaccurate in some circuits on the C6/C6.

A test light will NOT show you high resistance or low voltage very accurately.

BC

 

Thank you Bill