C5 with 14k miles - I charged the bat for the a day, left it out. I put it back in last night. Used the spare key and it started with out a problem. darn new technology. My c2 sat all winter long. Cranked over about 5 times and fired right up.

 

Anyone know which grounds are connected to which systems in the vehicle. If we could possibly diagram this it may make a LOT of trouble shooting issues better.

 

They are listed in post 419 of this thread:
Post 419

 

The factory service manual has all the schmatics. Thats the easiest way to find them.

 

Pm also
Hey Bill
Did you get either e-mail or PM from me.
John

 

Great thread!

Does anyone know what the Torque Specs are for the various ground points in the diagrams (assuming none of the studs break!)?

 

2001 ZO6 - only code is TCS 1214....both ABS and TC lights on

Thanks BC - I have ruled out all the simple fixes, and I am hopeful with ABS fixer.

 

Dear Sticky,

THANKYOU!

I was showing off my 2002 ZO6 to a buddy, and I couldn'y get it into third, and then the clutch wanted to release real deep for a while. I heard you couldn't power shift with the hydraulic clutch.

Two more starts and it said "reduced engine power", "service traction control" . Engine light on. OBD II test revealed P1220, throttle position sensor.
I found the ground behind the drivers headlight to be only a little more than finger tight. I sanded the bottom of the post, put dielectric grease on it, and left the battery disconnected for a while (over an hour)

After start, all back to normal, running like a champ.
Many thanks, and no money wasted.

Tom Sky Dog

 

just got a call from the dealer and of course they want to replace the EBCM - $1900

any help from you guys would be appreciated, still looking for help

 

Humy

I PM'ed you my number. Call me before you fund the dealers service reps Kid's college edcuation tuition!!

 

Cant POWER SHIFT a hydraulic clutch?????? Please describe what you mean by power shift?

That sounds like bum dope BUT,,it all depends on what your calling POWER SHIFTING. If what your talking about shifting without taking your foot off the accelator, then that is a BAD thing in a C5 trans unless you have a stage IV from Rodney! If you have a stage IV there are people who accomplish it without issue.


If everything in your drive train is mechanically correct and properly up-graded, it will do it with missing a beat!

If your talking about SPEED SHIFTING ,,,shifting very quickly,,,That is easly doable I do it all the time.

BC

BC

 

I attempted to remove the G-101 ground connector bolt from the post but it was so tight I was unable to do so. Is it possible to separate and clean the connector from the connector terminals with the bolt in place? Thanks for the help.

 

wow great info.. thanks

 

Perhaps I missed it, but I did not see any photos of the G-106 Ground point? I took this photo tonight while checking mine.

Bill - If you see anything wrong on this photo, please let me know and I will correct it...

 

Looks GOOD !!!

BC

 

Choreo,

Absent the GM chassis electrical manual and listed torque values, here's what I've done over the years with any electrical connections on any vehicle:

Use a nut driver (or if a screw is used on smaller connections) or screwdriver - - manual only. Don't use a power screw driver or nut driver/socket or there's a danger you'll strip the threads. Tighten as snugly as possible.

For large chassis ground connections directly bolted to the frame, engine block, or connection block, use the proper sized socket and NO LARGER THAN A STANDARD 3/8" ratchet (handle lenght 6" or less). Snug down to where the head of the bolt or screw makes contact and "shoulders' fully against the frame, etc. Tighten one-half to one full turn more, or if the bolt is large enough, until you cannot tighten any further.

 

A number of people have written and asked me to provide them pictures and locations of the C5 Chassis Ground locations. It looks like the Photobucket links are not working so,,,,I'm going to repost them here:

Here are the Chassis Ground points:









The Chassis Ground Connectors are either a non weather tight plug style:




This style can be disassembled. There is a small latch on each side. You should insert a small flat head screwdriver under each latch and at the same time, use a pair of pliers to grip the metal tang and pull.







If your as unfortunately as me and the stud breaks, not to worry. There is a work around.



Just grind the area where the stud broke from FLAT with a grinder and drill a small hole for a self tapping screw:





Fixed!!




The other type of ground is a stud eyelet type:



This is G-104 / 108 next to the battery.

The grounds on the engine are eyelet type grounds. Most are secured to the engine with a 15mm bolt.

BC

 

While Im updating,,I will add the C5 Ignition Switch Repair information to this post:

C5 Ignition Switch Repair

by Bill Curlee

There have been quite a few forum members with IGNITION SWITCH failure. There are a number of different symptoms to indicate that the switch is bad.

I helped FASTVETZO6 ( Mark) troubleshoot his problem down to the ignition switch. After replacement of the ignition switch, his problems were resolved. He mailed his old switch to me and I have dissected it, figured out why they fail and detailed the switch repair!

Thanks for the switch Mark! You made my weekend!

Here is the switch removed from the car The ignition lock cylinder has been removed. This is how you will receive the new switch from GM:







Looks complicated but its really very simple. The first step is to use an ohm meter to see if the switch is really bad before disassembly. I have included a hand drawn schematic of the switch PLEASE excuse the roughness of the drawing.



Use an ohm meter and ohm out each contact. You will need to cycle the switch through OFF, ACC, ON and Crank. Each contact point should be 0-5 ohms. Marks switch was reading 2500 + ohms on contacts 5 & D and 2000 ohms on contacts 3 & E.

( NOTE! The contact letters and numbers do NOT correspond to the C5 schematics. I added my own letters and numbers to help explain the drawing!

The switch contacts in the center area of the switch are the contacts that tell the BCM if the ignition KEY is inserted in the ignition cylinder or not.

Once you determine that the contacts are good or bad, remove the top GREEN cover to expose the switch contacts. The cover is easily removed by prying up the tabs "evenly" with a screwdriver.



Once the cover is off, this is what you will see:



Lift out the movable contact strips noting how the movable contacts and springs on top of the contact arms are assembled. The springs can and will fall off the arms!

Once the contacts are out, this is what you will see:



In Marks switch you can see TWO distinct burnt contacts. Those were the bad contacts.





The small brass pins just inside the fixed contacts are the pins that move UP & DOWN to operate the contacts.

The section of the switch below the section shown in the pictures above only contains the cam to move the brass pins UP & DOWN to operate the movable switch arms and contain NO electrical contacts. There is no need to disassemble this portion of the switch. When you rotate the switch the brass contacts will move UP or DOWN with each position of the switch.

There is a legend next to the hand drawn schematic that explains how the pins operate when the switch is moved through the various positions of the ignition switch.

I believe that the movable contact arms loose spring tension and cause poor contact and that results in contact arcing. Here is what the arms looked like when removed. The arm is slightly bent back wards:



Here is the burnt contacts on the arms:







I used 2000 grit wet & dry sand paper to clean the fixed and movable contacts. Polish the contacts clean to remove carbon and pitting.



Once there polished clean, wipe them down with alcohol.


(Part 2 continued in next post)

 

Here are all the contacts cleaned up:



I used a mechanical pencil with sand paper glued to the eraser to clean the fixed contacts. The eraser was trimmed down to fit the recess in the switch housing:





Once the contacts are cleaned up, bend the contact arms so that they apply more tension on the fixed contacts. It doesn't need too much bending:



Once you apply more tension to the contacts, you will need to be careful when reinserting the arms back into the switch. The movable contact pads will tend to hang up on the fixed contacts. Assist them over the fixed contacts. I used a hooked paper clip to raise the arm over the fixed contact.

I used two flat blade screwdrivers to apply force to contacts A & B inside the switch contact well to keep the contact arms forced down on the fixed contacts to prevent them from popping out of place while installing the green cap. Once the contacts are in place,



snap the green cap back on the switch. Check the CLEANED contacts with an ohm meter. They should read very close to ZERO OHMS.

Please feel free to ask me any questions that you have. I feel I'm a IGNITION SWITCH expert now!

Marks old NASTY broken switch is as good as new!!!!!!!!!!

BC

 

My 2001 coupe has both a non weather tight plug style connector and a stud eyelet connector on the g-101 ground. Is this normal? Could this cause illumination of the TC/ABS lights?

Frank Cervo