Going after grounds this weekend. Bill, What can I buy in a local radio shack or autoparts store to assist in this endeavor? (rather than online)

Thanks in advance.

 

What's the trick to getting the connector apart? I fdinally got them open, but there's got to be a easier way than puching a little screwdriver into the slot a pulling like crazy.

 

Hey all,

After reading the many pages of excellent advice and trying to correct the problems myself, I'm still having some issues.

I have a 98 vert that won't shift (automatic trans) automatically. I have to start the car off in first gear and shift manually. It seems to be running a little rough as well. I have a check engine light on and a service vehicle soon error message. I get the following current codes:

P0705
P0713
P0740
P0748
P0758
P0785
P1810
C1281

I have cleaned the following grounds although none appeared to be corroded:

G201
G103
G101
G102
G104
G202

I drilled new holes into the frame and installed self-tapping screws to for the grounds located on the frame rails G101, G102, G103 & G104 just to make sure it has a good contact. After purchasing the car, I noticed it had some acid damage on the plastic connectors around the battery. I cleaned all of the connections here as well but none seems to have any corrosion. I even removed the rear panel behind the passenger tire to access the grounding block and inspect the TCM. No corrosion anywhere?

Can anyone help me? What am I missing? At my wits end.

 

I'm sitting here with an estimate from my local Chevrolet dealer in the amount of $3600 to r&r both the EBCM and the BPMV on my '03 Z06. After much web browsing I am obviously very interested in the posts in the CF! I purchased my Z last July and it had only 2250 miles on it. I posted the total sequence of events regarding my problem at

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...ht=service+abs beginning with post #7.

It all started with the passenger side window not coming down. I had a dealership fix it, which cost me nearly $600! Two days later, after they completed recall work on the steering column lock, I went straight home and parked the car in my garage with everything working fine. The next day the minute I turn the ignition to "on" I'm getting "Service ABS, Service Traction Control, Service Active Handling" warnings from the DIC. All 3 systems failing at the same instant! Two turns of the key prior to this, the car was sitting in a dealership having the steering wheel lock recall taken care of, and just 2 days before, the same dealer replaced the window motor & mechanism.

After displaying much dissatisfaction with the first dealership, I went to a different dealer where I got the $3600 estimate. I think I'm even more infuriated in noting that the original posting here took place in Sept of '04, and what do the dealers do? ...
Their Sgt Schultz act (I know nothing) of course! To me, 3 years after this post at least, it would seem that they have to know about the potential of the chassis ground problems, yet they don't bother to check that out first. I guess that's because it doesn't pay nearly what replacing the modules does. This seems to me to be a major safety issue that GM, with all the reported failures, has to know about and yet they're doing nothing except making the repair so costly that only a very few can afford to make their vehicle safe again. At the time my warnings first appeared, my car only had about 9500 miles on it, and Chevrolet offered ZERO help. I'm very inclined to take this to some authority, but I'm not sure who to go to.

Tell me, if the real problem is a chassis ground, replacing the modules would not cure the problem or eliminate the DIC warnings would it? So to spend $3600 and it not cure the problem would be totally infuriating. I imagine dealers know that too, so they fix the corrosion in the process of replacing (if they even do that) the modules.

Could you please clear up two questions for me. First, I see that you have isolated some 13 chassis ground points. Could any one of these grounds being corroded cause the problem I'm having, or would it be limited to just 1 or 2? If the latter, which ones? I guess I'm asking which systems are grounded on each of these chassis positions.

Bill, I note that you have additional photo's. If you think they will be helpful, please send!

Any further help will be greatly appreciated!

PS: just this morning I checked the two chassis grounds that are right behind the headlights. Both were free of any corrosion. Kinda what I expected, but wasn't wanting to be the case. I also rechecked the codes that were being displayed on the DIC. There is only 1 code left of the original 8. Wonder where they went? Only thing left is 28 TCS: 1214 H C.

 

Hi Bill, I am having traction control errors on my 2000 convertible non active handling. It causes reduced engine power and it immediately throws a code every time its turned off and is un-drivable with intermittent reduced engine power errors.
I am in my RV in South Florida and do not have access to any tools, plus really can not afford a $500-1000 dollar repair bill right now. I cleaned the front connector packs and it did not solve my issue, though the drivers side was corroded almost as bad as your pictures. In the meanwhile I pulled the number 52 fuse and my ABS warnings are on but the traction control still immediately throws a code still every time I clear it. I am hesitant to test it out on the road. Is there a stand alone fuse to disable the traction control system only? Also can you tell me exactly which ground wires/connector packs are connected to the TCS? I assume there are more then 1 but I doubt all the ground connections have a link to the TCS. If I cant find a bad ground I would really like to just disconnect it for now if possible. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

I solved my problem. I went out and unplugged the ABS/TC module and the throttle position sensor plugs and any other plug I could see and plugged them back in. No more codes!! *phew* I will clean them all next when I get a chance.

 

Bill, You should be paid by GM for all the help you do.

I have a 2001 C5.

About a month ago I got a multiple spark missfire. It seemed to run fine, so I just erased the code and kept driving.

A month later all **** breaks loose.


So I get on the freeway on ramp, once I put a lil gas into it the whole care did the "reduced engine power".


First it gave me a code saying that it was running lean.

Then that dissapeared and all I get now is 1518 wich I think is the Throttle Position Sensor on the TB.

Any direction?

I am about to change the spark plugs, but do u think I need a new TB or TPS. It idles really high when it says reduced power. Like the Butterfly is stuck.

So, whenever I start it says reduced power and I can't drive it. This is bull****. I am thinking about getting rid of it if this is how GM treats it's best car.


This sucks, i love my corvette, I am dying not driving it and I have a car show this coming weekend.

Any help is appreciated.

 

I put a new throttle body with new TAC and TPS on it and it still does reduced engine power.

I cleaned the 2 grounds in the engine compartment. Cleaned all my connectors to the MAF, and TB.

Cleaned my MAF too.


IDK what to do now. I have a supercharger and I know it will void my warranty if i take it to the dealer and I dont want the dealer to BS me about what the problem really is.



What could it be?

 

I had the exact same issues, although this happened on a passing situation though, couldnt get the car up to 15mph, shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes, restarted ran fine, took it in, shop found acid eaten wiring harnesses going to my PCM caused by the original Delco battery block cracking, which I had already replaced

 

Hi Guys
My first time on CF.
Bought my '99 C5 a year ago (manual) it had 6700 kms. on it at that time and now it has 24,000 trouble free kms. till yesterday. This is my first Vette and I love it.
Now when I pull the key out the car thinks the key is still in the ignition (no auto unlock, the seat does not go back and the door chime comes on when the door is opened also the security in the instrument cluster flashes)
When I go to start it again the DIC reads Remove key wait 10sec.
I did, it didn't help and the steering lock doesn't engage.

I tried another key and cleaned them I even blew out the ignition.
I disconnected the battery for the night.
Cleaned all the ground points (they where not corroded).
Battery is fully charged.
Engine runs fine but the car only goes 2 ft. before it quits, but it will start again, It still beats the Fords but only for 2 ft.

Here are the codes that I can get
28 TGS C1255 H
A0 LDCM U1064 H, B2282 H, B2284 H.
A0 RDCM B2283 H, B2285 H.
B0 RFA U1016 H, U1096 H.

I have cleared all the codes and run the car and no other codes have come up but I can't drive it.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Brian

 

I am a do it yourself kind of a guy, so I look around a lot of sites like this for electronics networking, airplane, building tips.

This one beats the band.

Having the exact messages on my 2003 Corvette. The radio went dead the last message was "engine low power", an the driver door command module would close the windows.

I started taking things apart and feeling my way around but to no avail.

I read your post and went out to the garagrge at 6 Am to see if it matched in any way.

I went through the errors, wrote them down and erased them and some came back which I recorded. I found that many related as non communication from one module to the next. I surmised that the modules were either faulty, with one being common to many or that a general signal implediment was common to all.

The connectors under the 2003 looked different. Maybe they replaced them knowing about the corrosion you demonstrated.

Although the connections looked different, they were in the same spot under the hood. I removed them from the stud that attachs to the chasis/body. I looked in and they looked clean. It didn't look like they would come apart, just each wire was connected into the socket's many channels. I sanded the contact terminals that are fastened to the body stud and replaced the cleaned nut. Started the car and have been driving it ever since. Thanks for getting me started.

I hope that others will also try to clean all the available contacts on the Ground. This is a $1000 job that didn't get to the dealer.

 

I had same issue and it was the chasis grounds. Cleaned two of them the ones behind the headlights and worked fine.

 

What a great guy Bill Curlee is. You never know the credibility of persons you're dealing with on the internet, but I have to tell you, Mr. Curlee flat knows his *#&$. After a few emails and checking a few things he advised to pull the EBCM and send it off to Brandon @ absfixer.com.

It was shipped back from Brandon I think the same day he got it. Had it back the next day, installed the day after that. All codes immediately disappeared, yellow warning lights disappeared, service messages stopped and everything began working properly right away. That has been 2 weeks ago and there hasn't been a single recurrance. Done deal!

I'm sure Brandon's investment here is not huge but wagering that $150 against $3600 is the best return I've ever had... except that the guy who led me there didn't charge a thing! Great help BILL! Here's to you

 

Bill or others please help.
2000 C5 will crank but want start. DIC shows, low fuel, service soon, service traction control etc. Everything works radio, doors, lights etc.
When I go to pul the codes I have No comm any module in the car, pcm, bcm, tcs etc. We looked over the car last night checked all grounds and cleaned. Battery is 2 months old and is strong. We noticed a humming noise coming from the fruse panel in the engine compartment. Turns out the humming noise was being made by one of relays, the ignition relay to be exact. We removed it and replaced it with another one. No humming but no solution either.
Here is the funny part I went to take the keys out of the car last night and I just thought I would try and see if by some miracle the car had fixed itslef. I turned the key on radio comes on, blower fan comes on, same messages on the DIC so I said screw it for the night. Turned the key to the off position and removed the key. Everything was still on! Took me threee tries to get it to finally shut down. The key has been cleaned. I am at this point thinking something in the ignition? The fuel pump does not run when the key is on.
Any guesses?

 

This sounds like a comlpicated issue but it just may have a simple fix. Looks like you have a serial buss problem. Something on the serial buss is causing a short or cross signal and that will make all the modules read NO COMS. The very first place that I would look is in the accordion tubes in both doors. Remove the rubber accordion tubes, pull the wiring harnesses out of the body channel and examine the connectors looking for bare wires like this:::





Look atthe bare wire at the top of the connector. Iy needs to be isolated and covered.

If that isnt the issue, next look at the seat control module plug It gets damaged easy and shorts out.

Once you have examined these areas, clear the DTCs and see if you have made any progerss.

Please let me know how you make out.

BC

 

Bill thanks for the reply and I will check those tomorrow. I came across another interesting thing tonight. I noticed with the key in the on position I had no windows, locks or radio but if I wiggled the key in the ignition the radio would come on and the windows would work but only for a few seconds. Now here is where it gets interesting if the key is in the ACC position eveything works fine windows, radio etc.

 

With that added info,,,you could very well have a bad ignition switch. The switch replaces seperate from the lock cylinder.

BC

 

Thanks Bill that's what I was thinking too. How hard is it to replace the switch? I'm fairly handy with tools and not afraid to give it a try.

 

That was valuable info.......will get on it this weekend.
99 C-5 6spd.

This forum is aww-some !!! Now if i can make it up to Carlisle i will be in good shape.

 

Well I we replaced the ignition switch last night. Still have the same problem. After much debate we went ahead and took the battery back to Autozone to have it checked (optima red top) they tested it and it was bad! They gave me a new one and the drive home was like following the yellow brick road to the land of OZ. Birds singing, happiness you know what I mean. Got home put the battery in and guess what! Same freekin problem! Nothing changed, I'm about to pull my hair out. We can ping every module in the car with the tech 2 accept for, you guessed it the PCM. I'm about to loose the little patience I have left with this car.
At this point I'm thinking it would look god at the bottom of a lake some where.