Do 2002 z06s have the C148 connector?

Thanks

 

Fixed the door lock issue (Passenger Door would lock but not un lock) by replacing the middle relay on the circuit board. Took all of 45 minutes thanks to the information from the forum. Lastly is fixing the dim light on the HVAC controller. Will tackel that this weekend

 

Hi, I think so...



(1) Fuse Block - Underhood C3
(2) A/C Compressor Clutch
(3) S106
(4) S107
(5) Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
(6) Cooling Fan - Left
(7) C107
(8) Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor
(9) Brake Differential Switch
(10) Brake Fluid Level Switch
(11) Windshield Washer Fluid Pump
(12) Repeater Lamp - Left
(13) Windshield Washer Fluid Level Switch
(14) G103
(15) SP101
(16) G101
(17) Headlamp Door Assembly - Left
(18) Fog Lamp - LF
(19) Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump
(20) S108
(21) Cooling Fan - Right
(22) Ambient Air Temperature Sensor
(23) Fog Lamp - RF
(24) Horn Assembly
(25) C100
(26) C113
(27) Headlamp Door Control Module C2
(28) Headlamp Door Control Module C1
(29) Headlamp Door Assembly - Right
(30) G102
(31) SP100
(32) Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Solenoid
(33) A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
(34) Repeater Lamp - Right
(35) G108
(36) C102
(37) UHEC C6
(38) C148
(39) C140
(40) C150

 

but are there any detailed ground access instructions in all this excellent information for us less than talented DIY'ers in here somewhere. I have cleaned all the visible grounds, but am not sure how to access some of the more hidden rears. I also cleaned the door harness plugs , and for that, I made sure to disconnect the battery

Perhaps a detail on what has to be removed to access unexposed plugs, and how to do it so as not to damage anything, would be useful to some of us motivated shade tree amateurs.
Could someone direct me to this detail?

Thanks to Bill and all for this great guide.

 

You need to grab a legal pad, like I did once, and read this thread from start to finish....making notes as you read about this car and it's gremlins. That, and along with the 3 vol GM manual set that you should already have, will help you answer many of your own questions about your C5. I've been doing this for many years and still don't have all the answers I sometimes need, but I definitely know and understand my car so much better. Bill Curlee and many others on all the Corvette online forums have amazing knowledge that they share to help others. I subscribe to this thread and read every word Bill types!

 

already have a mother who tells me what I "need to do." Sanctimonious, patronizing advice was not what I was seeking. I am not the only one looking for this specific information.

 

Hey friend relax a bit.....I was definitely not trying to be "Sanctimonious or patronizing" or even motherly to you, but just trying to be helpful by passing on information and/or suggestions that were once given to me and alot of other frustrated owners out there. Doing all I mentioned sure helped me with several issues with my car. I'm sure Bill or others will chime in when they can. Hope you have a great day.

 

Posted on here a while back about getting error codes for ABS/TC/AH, shortly after they come in I get reduced engine power and then my throttle sticks at about 3800 to 4000 rpm. I have just been sitting at a light and had the throttle jump and stick. I have checked the wiring harness, grounds ( I know it isn't a ground problem but did it anyway) and checked the ECM connector to be fully connected. Found they are bolted in so I figured they must be connected. I am at a loss as to what to do. I never drive my car anymore because even on short trips this will happen 2 or 3 times where before it was only once in a while. Should be easier to find with it happening all the time now though, for someone who knows where to look that is. PLEASE HELP... I miss my car. BTW this is on an 02Z If no one has any suggestions does anyone know of a reputable (really really good) corvette tuner in south to central Florida that could help????Thanks for whatever help you can give.

 

It seems like this has been covered, but just wondering if anyone can tell me what the problem may be... And/Or what ground wires to inspect/clean for traction control/abs problems. I get the code c1228 currently along with another that has to deal with the right rear tire (Edit: Just looked it up it was C1235, its not on now, but im sure it will come on since im writing this right after i got home from the shop after they cleared the codes). Was told to replace the hub, took it to a shop they hooked up a new one, and its still pulling the same code... Any help would be appreciated

 

After 9 years and 68 pages of information...."Knowledge is Power'

Time to check my G101 and G102 connectors.


TO THE TOP FOR AN AWESOME THREAD!!

 

I never dreamed that this post would grow this big for thos long!

Glad it helps people fix their cars.

Bill

 

Need Delphi part number for the connector seal that is on the fuel injection harness plug to injector. 04 LS6. Thanks

 

Bill
I saw a thread somewhere (I believe CF) that discussed the false empty fuel issue.
There were pictures showing slight burns or corrosion on what looked like a rheostat in the fuel level sending unit in the fuel tank.
The solution was replacing the unit. It was also suggested to replace the unit in both tanks, expecting a similar result.

Also, regarding the communication back and forth between us regarding my thread "something draining battery"....I saw a thread on Corvette Action Center-C5 tech-sticky thread "C5 column lock debunked" , "part 1" and "part 2".
A professional video about batteries states that the battery for a C5 should have a "RC 120" (reserve capacity) and a "500 CCA" (cold cranking amps) minimum rating.
My Delco "Professional" battery only has a rating of "RC 90". Apparently this has to do with supporting the computer while the car sets un-started for a while. He also says to remove the negative ONLY battery cable when a car sets for a month or more.
Thanks for your help!

 

Bill
I saw a thread somewhere (I believe CF) that discussed the false empty fuel issue.
There were pictures showing slight burns or corrosion on what looked like a rheostat in the fuel level sending unit in the fuel tank.
The solution was replacing the unit. It was also suggested to replace the unit in both tanks, expecting a similar result.

Also, regarding the communication back and forth between us regarding my thread "something draining battery"....I saw a thread on Corvette Action Center-C5 tech-sticky thread "C5 column lock debunked" , "part 1" and "part 2".
A professional video about batteries states that the battery for a C5 should have a "RC 120" (reserve capacity) and a "500 CCA" (cold cranking amps) minimum rating.
My Delco "Professional" battery only has a rating of "RC 90". Apparently this has to do with supporting the computer while the car sets un-started for a while. He also says to remove the negative ONLY battery cable when a car sets for a month or more.
Thanks for your help!

 

Hi Bill,

I have just purchased a 1997 corvette and I am having some issues with all types of trouble codes and lights on (traction control,security,and ABS). I seen your post about the grounding points and cleaned all that I could find (2 under battery box, the ones on top of frame rail behind headlights) and drove the car all day the next day and the lights stayed off. My fuel gauge even started working again! Got in it Friday to go to town and all lights back on and fuel gauge not working again. If you have any addictional photos or input on this, it would be GREATLY APPRECATED if you could e-mail them to me @ dennisl945@netzero.net

 

Without DTCs,, your not going to get much help. Please read and post the DTCs you have right now.

CLEAR ALL OF THEM after you read and post them.

When the engibe dies,,,,, without changing anything,,, carefully and safely read the DTCs and post what is displayed.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Thank you very much for your input on the dtc's. I have my vette on jack stands now doing complete service on all fluids (motor oil,rear axle,trans.) brake pads,turn rotors etc. I will keep you informed when i find anything. Thanks again for your time Bill.

 

Hi Bill,

My battery has been dying after 2-3 days so we placed an amp meter on the battery and there was a draw of 5 amps, even after 15 minutes this number did not change. We began to pull fuses, when we got to the BCM fuse (25 at the foot panel) that amps dropped to approximately 2.5 amps, pulling #27 and #29 got the amps downs to .298. Replaced all fuses and repeated the sequence above and the amps go down to .298 upon removal of the BCM fuse, with the other fuses now not resulting in any further drop.

If we pull all fuses in the floor panel and engine compartment fuse blocks we still can't get below this number, and now the key fob and tire sensor monitors are not working.

Suggestions??

 

Bill,

I just wanted to say that you have a ridiculous amount of knowledge about these cars.

 

The BCM puts the car into sleep mode so you cant pull the BCM fuses and trouble shoot it correctly.
I agree,,, If you pull the BCM fuse and still have 300 milliamps,,,,,, something is not turning off. Disconnect the Passengers fuse box feed on the underhood fuse box B+ terminal and see if it goes away. If it does,, you can concentrate on those fuses and breakers.

Bill