The pins looking damaged isnt a good thing .... I may have steered you wrong on the pin reading data.

I used a different schematic and here is what you should see:

EBTCM connector:

Pin "A" , Battery voltage from Fuse# 52 ABS 40 amp.

Pin "B" Ingition Voltage Fuse# 5 ABSTRANS 10 amp, "Hot in Ignition ON" Ignition needs to be ON to read it.

Pin #6,, IP Fuse block ,, Fuse 8 STP HAZ, Hot at all times.

GROUNDS are on pins G and F

Please recheck and post results.

BC

 

The pins looking damaged isnt a good thing .... I may have steered you wrong on the pin reading data. I've fixed this

I used a different schematic and here is what you should see:

EBTCM connector:

Pin "A" , Battery voltage from Fuse# 52 ABS 40 amp. I'll check tonight

Pin "B" Ingition Voltage Fuse# 5 ABSTRANS 10 amp, "Hot in Ignition ON" Ignition needs to be ON to read it. Check tonight

Pin #6,, IP Fuse block ,, Fuse 8 STP HAZ, Hot at all times. Check tonight

GROUNDS are on pins G and F I do not have a pin "G"

Please recheck and post results.

BC

 

I just bought a 1999 C5 and the first issue is I have a dim headlight. I replaced the bulbs, no help, but sounds like I need to check the grounds -- thanks!

 

Well......... The first data that I gave you was the correct data. My damn computer keeps bring me back to schematics for my 02 Z

Check really good the ABS Maxi fuse #52 (40 amp) as it supplies power to that pin. (E) The fuse has test points on the top of it. Measure both test points to ground and see if you have battery voltage.

Bill

 

Hello someone, I on a 221 C-5 Corvette, I posted last week that I need some help with a window leak located on the corner door window, is there a fix, Also I have another problem, this other problem is I have a piece broke out of my targa window, can it be repaired, Help

 

If you have comprehensive insurance the top being "glass" is covered. I had mine replaced with an exchange has all new seals and new glass. $100. deductible good as new.
The new seals on the Targa top will most likely fix the leak. It did mine.
Tomm

 

Thanks for the info , I think I will try that

 

set the meter to OHMS and measure B to a known good chassis ground. Should get ZERO OHMS .0215 OHMS

Set the meter up to measure DC Volts
Measure pin E to ground and you should see full battery voltage 0 Volts
Measure pin E to Pin B and you should see full battery voltage 0 Volts

Measure pin D to B and you should see full battery voltage. 11.95 Volts

D to Ground 11.95

Maxi Fuse 52 voltage across 11.95

 

I just solved this problem after being pissed off for the last eight months of having it. I cleaned one or two grounds at a time every week or month... depending on how bad I wanted to work on it...

Anyway, the #1 and #5 grounds are the two that seemed to fix my problem. I still haven't cleaned about 4 grounds, but like I said, 1&5 got rid of my problems.

I wish I would've seen someone post that information for me earlier.

 

Are you talking about chassis grounds? I'm not familiar with "#1 or #5" grounding points, but terms like G102, G104 etc. Can you clarify?
I'm chasing this issue too and just want to be sure I know what you're talking about.
Thanks!!

 

saga still continues. My TC/AH/ALB trouble messages are locked in all the time now. They used to clear almost everytime I shut the car off and restarted, so that should be easier to find now. My main concern remains the throttle go to 10.2% and sticking after I get the reduced engin power. Today I had a scanner hooked up as I was driving around after changing out the TPS just to verify that it was not my problem, since I happen to have one. The problem was gone for a few trips, I usually get it no matter how short a trip I take so I was beginning to think it might just have been it. Nope, I got the REP on the 3rd trip. The code was "Fule Pump Curcit 1 Low" that put me in REP. I got to thinking that maybe it was my boost-a-pump that got put in with the blower addition. The BAP is just laying between my battery and the battery box. (crummy work if you ask me) Anyway I am wondering if the ground is bad on that causing my fuel pump to loose power causing the DTC and ultamitaly causing the throttle to lock at around 3800 rpm. I found that if I unplug the throttle positioner or the throttle position sensor the same thing happens. Also I found today that if I clear the DTC codes while the throttle it locked all goes back to normal. That leads me to believe it is not caused by a bad connection or component such as the TPS. I have been dealing with this since very shortly after I got the car back from the shop that put in the blower. I won't mention any shops but I am very displeased with the job, the owner told me the BAP was put in the back inner fender to keep it close to the fuel pump, I only found it when I decieded since I hardly ever drive it because of this problem that I would put a battery tender on it. Anyway... does what I am saying make sense to anyone? Would a bad ground on my BAP cause this???
Ok just adding some to this. I found what looks to be a really bad ground connection at the left front bottom of the battery box. It looks as if the guys that put my blower on when they connected the BAP ground, which they just left flopping in the battery box, they pinched the insulation on the crimp between the plastic battery box and the frame where the ground connection is. I have not had time to fix this, but am hoping that all these months of problems is due to this ground. I was told that my getting the "engine reduced power" was not due to a ground, but I think with the added info of the BAP that it is a possibility. I am further hoping that since there is 2 other ground wires at the same connection that this is also possibly the problem with my TC, AH and ABS also. Will keep adding till I finally work this out. Not sure why, but no one seems to be throwing any suggestions my way about this....

 

Set the meter up to measure DC Volts
Measure pin E to ground and you should see full battery voltage 0 Volts
Measure pin E to Pin B and you should see full battery voltage 0 Volts

Measure pin D to B and you should see full battery voltage. 11.95 Volts

D to Ground 11.95

Maxi Fuse 52 voltage across 11.95

I thought I would see if their was a break in the line feeding pin E so I spliced into the existing wire about a foot from the fusebox and then tested for voltage. Nada there is no voltage coming from the wire.

I'm not familiar with how the wire gets spliced into the fusebox at the maxi fuse #52 position. Does anyone have any experience with having to do any work in the fusebox location? Is there a plug of some kind that these wires get wired into.

Thanks

 

Look at the layout pictures in the initial page or post on page 1, the pages copied from the manual say "1" and on, and then reference a g number, but I couldn't quite read them with the resolution provided by the pic, so I said 1 and 5, because I could read those numbers.

I think they are G201 and G104.

The g104 is the one right near/under the battery shroud, attached directly to the frame. It isn't on the fender like you might think from the picture. It only has 2 or three wires with ring terminals on it secured by a screw. The other one, 201, actually has two bundles of wires in the multi connector type deal. Lots of grounds terminated there. Good luck.

 

Go back to the very start of this post and find the picture of the C5 Grounds. Below that picture of the grounds is a LEGEND page that references that NUMBER to a specific ground.

When I posted this information, all i had was a 98 Service Manual and ZERO ability to access any of the schematics digitally. All I could do is take pictures of the page in the service manual and put it in PHOTOBUCKET so I can post it.

I now have ESI and can access all the schematics and post digital pictures of each schematic.

Here is a copy and paste of the legend that depicts the ground points on the diagram:

(1) G201
(2) G103
(3) G101
(4) G102
(5) G104
(6) G202
(7) G302
(8) G402
(9) G401
(10) G301
(11) G107
(12) G105
(13) G106


Here is the schematic:

 

Hey Bill,
My name is bill and I have a 98 conv. and it has strange electrical issues, but the main thing is it has an intermittent starting problem, sometimes it will start, sometime it wont, hot/cold doesnt make a difference, I have done the grounds cleaning, as per your post, I have done the ignition switch as per your post, there were two corroded contacts, but they are clean now switch is back in the car...same problem still exists

The problem is, I put the key in the ignition, all the dash lights up as if it is going to crank, but it may or may not crank?, it's about a 50/50 chance either way,,, also replaced the starter today with a new one as well...your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide!
Bill

 

2000BSME - I just solved this problem after being pissed off for the last eight months of having it. I cleaned one or two grounds at a time every week or month... depending on how bad I wanted to work on it...

Anyway, the #1 and #5 grounds are the two that seemed to fix my problem. I still haven't cleaned about 4 grounds, but like I said, 1&5 got rid of my problems.

I wish I would've seen someone post that information for me earlier.

Apologies I'm confused? Are you stating that you had an issue similar to mine?

 

To avoid any further confusion, I solved the intermittent "reduced power, service traction control, abs, blah blah blah" problem on my '01 Z06 by cleaning grounds #1 and #5 (see g codes that Bill posted if you prefer to use that nomenclature).

That is all that I did. I just posted that I didn't get any results from the previous 5 or 6 grounds that I cleaned, but only after cleaning 1 & 5 did my problem go away.

 

I don't know what problem you have, I was just adding to the original thread that I've been following for a few years, and never had the problem until a year ago.

 

What problem where you having?

 

hey, this still did not fix it , it cranked good 4 times and then tried another 10 times and nothing??? I am lost all over,

whats next?,
bill