Here we go again
After finally getting the throttle issue and EBTCM fixed, I drove home last week from work not realizing the streets were flooded . The water was pretty deep. I didn't realize it until 2 days later that water got in the car. It wasn't a lot, mainly just damp behind the seats and in the very bottom of the trunk where there is a drain hole. Nothing major. I went very VERY slow through the water. The car sputtered a couple times but that was it. It threw a few codes, which I wrote down then cleared them while still on my way home. No more codes came up the rest of the way home. Today as I drove into work I got code P0440. That is one of the codes that came up when driving home through the flood. I also got a no comm. code that day, but it has not returned, yet. I am pretty sure it isn't my gas cap. I guess I need to pull the RF tire and look at the computer module for water intrusion? Hoping Bill or someone may have had this problem, with getting this code after driving ( unwillingly, by the time I knew the roads were flooded I was in the middle of it) through deep water. Figures the day my wife needed the truck it would rain 2 months of rain 5 hours Any ideas as to where to start looking is GREATLY APPRECIATED, thanks

 

Check the following:

Underhood Fuse block Fuses PCM Fuse# 16, ENGIGN1 Fuse# 19 and Relay #42

All that stuff controls the Evaporative emissions stuff.

Here is the code definition:


Document ID# 794698
2002 Chevrolet Corvette


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DTC P0440
Description
The EVAP large leak test applies vacuum to the evaporative emission (EVAP) system and monitors vacuum decay. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor signal to determine the vacuum decay rate. At an appropriate time, the control module turns the EVAP canister purge valve ON (open) and the EVAP vent valve ON (closed). This allows the engine to draw a vacuum on the EVAP system. At a calibrated time, or vacuum level, the control module turns the purge valve OFF (closed), sealing the system, and monitors the FTP sensor input in order to determine EVAP system vacuum. If the system is unable to achieve the calibrated vacuum level, or the vacuum level decreases too rapidly, DTC P0440 will set.

Conditions for Running the DTC
DTC P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0443, P0449, P0452, P0453, P1106, P1107, P1112, P1114, P1115, P1120, P1220, or P1221 are not set.
The ignition voltage is between 10-18 volts.
The barometric pressure is more than 75 kPa.
The fuel level is between 15-85 percent.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
The start up ECT and IAT are within 9°C (16°F) of each other.
The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is less than 121 km/h (75 mph).
Conditions For Setting the DTC
The EVAP system is not able to achieve or maintain vacuum during the diagnostic test.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The control module will illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the second consecutive trip in which the diagnostic test ran and failed.
The control module will store conditions which were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame and Failure Records data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The control module will turn the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) OFF during the first trip in which the diagnostic has been run and passed.
A last test failed (current DTC) clears when the control module turns OFF the MIL.
The history DTC will clear after the control module runs and passes 40 consecutive warm up cycles with no failure.
The DTC can be cleared by using a scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
Use the EVAP pressure/purge diagnostic station in order to pressurize the EVAP system to aid in locating intermittent leaks. Move all EVAP components while testing with the J 41416 Ultrasonic Leak Detector.
A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. To repair a blockage in the EVAP system refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Cleaning
Reviewing the Fail Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

This step verifies that a failure condition is active.

This step is used to verify if a leak is present.

This step verifies proper operation of the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.

This step tests the EVAP canister purge valve for a restriction or blockage.

Step
Action
Values
Yes
No

Schematic Reference: Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Hose Routing Diagram

1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls

2
Does the scan tool indicate DTC P0443 or DTC P0449 are also set?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
Go to Step 3

3
Inspect the EVAP system for the following conditions:
Loose, missing or damaged service port schrader valve
Loose, incorrect, missing or damaged fuel fill cap
A damaged EVAP canister purge valve
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Inspect the EVAP system for the following conditions:
Disconnected, improperly routed, kinked or damaged EVAP pipes and hoses
A damaged EVAP canister vent valve or EVAP canister
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 18
Go to Step 4

4
With a scan tool, capture and record the Failure Records data and clear the DTCs.
Perform the Service Bay Test. Refer to Service Bay Test .
Does the scan tool indicate that the service bay test passed?
--
Go to Diagnostic Aids
Go to Step 5

5

Important
Always zero the EVAP Pressure and vacuum (in H2O) gauges on the EVAP Pressure Diagnostic Station before proceeding with diagnosis.


Install the J 41415-40 Fuel Fill Cap Adaptor.
Connect the J 41413 EVAP Pressure/Purge Diagnostic Station and the vehicle fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With the scan tool, seal the EVAP system.
With the J 41413 , pressurize the system to the specified value.
Rotate the J 41413 rotary switch to the OFF/HOLD position. Monitor the pressure gauge for 1 minute.
Did you obtain and hold the specified value?
5 in H2O
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 9

6
Compare the J 41413 gauge value to the scan tool fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor value.

Does value measure near the scan tool value?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 13

7
With the J 41413 , pressurize the EVAP system to the specified value.
Rotate the J 41413 rotary valve to the OFF/HOLD position.
Monitor the pressure gauge on the J 41413 .
With a scan tool, command the EVAP canister purge valve to 50 percent.
Does the EVAP system pressure decrease?
5 in H2O
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 10

8
Inspect the vacuum source to the EVAP purge valve for blockage, cuts, or disconnects. Repair as necessary.

Did you find and correct the condition?
-
Go to Step 18
Go to Diagnostic Aids

9
With the J 41413 , continuously pressurize the EVAP system.

Important
It may be necessary to partially lower the fuel tank to inspect components located in the upper portion of the tank.


With the J 41416 Ultrasonic Leak Detector, inspect for leaks in the following locations:
The EVAP system purge pipe. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Hoses/Pipes Replacement - Engine .
The EVAP vapor pipe. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Hoses/Pipes Replacement - Engine .
The EVAP vent hose/pipe. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Hoses/Pipes Replacement - Engine .
The fuel fill pipe/hose and fuel fill cap. Refer to Filler Tube Replacement or Fuel Filler Hose Replacement .
The EVAP canister. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Replacement .
The EVAP canister vent valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Valve Replacement .
The EVAP canister purge valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Valve Replacement .
The fuel sender assembly and/or seal. Refer to Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement .
The (FTP) fuel tank pressure sensor seal. Refer to Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Replacement .
The fill limiter vent valve, pressure relief valve, rollover valves, and/or fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Replacement .
Did you locate and repair a leak?
--
Go to Step 19
Go to Diagnostic Aids

10
Monitor the pressure gauge ON
Disconnect the EVAP purge pipe from the EVAP purge valve.
Does the EVAP system pressure decrease?
--
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 11

11
Monitor the pressure gauge on the.
Disconnect the purge pipe at the EVAP canister.
Does the EVAP system pressure decrease?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 12

12
Monitor the pressure gauge on .
Disconnect the EVAP vapor line from the EVAP canister.
Does the EVAP system pressure decrease?
--
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 14

13
Replace the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor. Refer to Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 18
--

14
Repair for a pinched or obstructed EVAP vapor pipe.

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 18
--

15
Replace the EVAP purge valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Valve Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 18
--

16
Repair the restriction in the EVAP purge pipe. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Cleaning .

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 18
--

17
Replace the EVAP canister. Refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 18
--

18
Perform the Service Bay Test. Refer to Service Bay Test .

Does the scan tool indicate that the service bay test passed?
--
Go to Step 19
Go to Step 5

19
With a scan tool, observe the stored information, Capture Info.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
System OK



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 794698
2002 Chevrolet Corvette

 

Thanks, once again Bill, for all the info. I haven't had time to check it out yet, but the P0440 code has not come back since I cleared it yesterday morning. I do have another question though. I get code P1415 everyday. My tuner told me he was going to disable the air pump and tune it out when he did the header install. I do have emisions type headers, and contary to what he told me, he did connect the air lines. Obviously he did not disable the air injection system in the tune or I would not be getting the code, right? Since I no longer have catts, I am thinking I can just pull the fuse for the air pump, until I can get it tuned out. Does that sound right to you? Thanks again for all your help Bill I bet if you had a dime for every dollar you saved the people on here, you would be a very wealthy man from that alone.

 

If you don't have cats, you going to get a DTC anyway, You will be fine other than a CEL. No harm done. All the AIR System does is expedite the CAT warm up during first start. The PCM also does a AIR system test during part throttle cruise.

Make sure that you tune out the rear O2 sensors also. They DO NOT effect the cars performance.

Bill

 

I'm having electrical issues on my 91 I wonder if grounding could be my problem. When I turn on the blinkers my dash lights dim with each blink. Had a bad cell in battery and replaced it but it still acts up. Voltage gauge jumps around when just idling.

 

LOL!!! 91 C4,,, ,,,,, MAN,,, I had to clear all the C4 data out of the brain to learn C5..

Just kidding.
The C4 ignition switch has the same issues as the C5 ignition switch. If you search the C4 Forum you will find this post:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...soon-help.html

I bet you a COLD ONE that,, If you service your ignition switch, you will resolve a LOT of electrical issues and the car will run better.

PLEASE let us know what you find and if this helps. Pictures are worth a thousand words...

Bill

Bill

 

Had the same problem. I have a 98 convertible and the Chevy dealer pulled out the ignition switch but realized it was good. Then the did more trouble shooting. The original reason I brought to the dealership was because when I tried to start it the security light would flash rapidly and it had no cranking power-wouldn't make a sound. And on the D.I.C. it would not display the "corvette by Chevrolet" message but instead that white block would bounce side to side as the security light kept blinking. I would take the key out and after a couple of start attempts it would turn over normally. However once it was running, the D.I.C. would display "service traction control system-low voltage-reduced engine power" or on other tries it would say "pull key and wait 10 seconds" I initially thought it was the battery. Then I thought maybe the key with the chip was bad. I'm not a mechanic so I took it to Midway Chevrolet in Phoenix. Originally they thought the battery cables were loose then the nightmare began. They had my car 22 days originally telling me that my ignition switch was bad. Then the told me that the ignition parts were good and they had to check for a ground short. Finally they said they thought the BCM was bad but they couldn't guarantee it. They ordered the first BCM but it looked damaged. They sent that one back and put it in with a proper programming. On the 22nd day I picked up my 98 Torch Red Convertible Corvette and it appears to run well. The cost 885 dollars. The BCM part was 258 dollars plus tax. 525 dollars labor including programing the BCM as well as taking out the ignition switch even though it was good and not replaced as well as a small battery check labor fee. This sucks. What else will go wrong. Bought my Corvette from a Ford Dealer and I should of got a Mustang. We will see if this 98 with only 66k miles wigs out again. I have had it back now 4 days and I am suspicious. However it is running well and appears to be more responsive as far as its engine power. One more issue and its back to driving a Ford but hopefully not.

 

I just had the clutch changed in my 03 c5z, rear engine cover plate and seal kit and 2 differential output seals. On the way home the vette just quit running while in 6th gear doing approx.70mph. gauges stopped working, blinkers not working, engine quit no power steering, etc. By dropping it in 5th gear and popping the clutch it started again.
Drove another 30 miles and got caught in traffic when it happened another 5 or 6 times in any gear at any speed, even idling and not moving. In the morning I will be checking the connections to the battery, then I will be checking the body grounds.
Is there a specific ground I can look at? Or is there something else that you might know of that would cuase this. This has not happened since I bought the car in july until today. I have had a couple of charge system faults come up right after starting vehicle, but nothing has ever happened.

 

You either have a serial data buss issue OR a module voltage issue.

PLEASE,.... read your DTCs directly after the issue happens.

THAT,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Will help narrow down the issue.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!







BC

 

Bill, I am a new guy to the forum and to vette ownership, Saturday I took my 01 out for a drive. All the gauges went out, radio went off, seat belt warning light and bell went off, low fuel, reduce power, etc. I read this post and cleaned the two ground connections under the hood. The problems now seem to all be cleared. You sir made my day! Waiting for warm weather so we can put the top down!

Dennis

 

Just asking if you keep your car outside for long periods of time

 

I just bought the 2001 C5 last November, it had under 17,000 miles on it then. With the weather we have had in central Illinois this winter I have driven it less than 500 miles since I picked it up. The car sits in my garage under cover for the winter. None of the connections looked bad at all. I did clean them with contact cleaner just in case. It seems to have fixed my problem.

Dennis

 

Bill, I’d appreciate any ideas you have on my 2001 Convertible that we have driven from coast to coast three time and has been to the lower 48. It is really a part of the family.

Last year after a trip to the northeast with a lot of rain, potholes and bad roads we returned to Florida via the Blue Ridge and the Tail of the Dragon. On the last day, heading home the Reduced Engine power and every other warning lit the dash up while on the interstate. Luckily, a dealer was at the exit and after a couple of hours the car started and there was no diagnosis. There were no codes as there was “No Comm” from the OBD port. The tech suggested a loose connection and all that was done was removing the BCM and reinstalling it. We made it 400 miles to home without an issue.

Some weeks later the same occurred during a pouring rain, in an area where we couldn’t pull over. Thinking of what the tech said my wife stomped her foot over the area of the BCM and the gauges came to life, door locks clicked, radio popped and while going down the road saw all “U” codes to each module. The same thing happened again some weeks later after driving in the rain. Same fix! Same “U” codes! Never a sign of water or dampness near the BCM or the fuses. Same for the PCM and I sealed the inner fender with silicon.

I had the BCM replaced and took the car to South Carolina for a 1700 mile road trip and the third day put us in the ice storms you saw in the news. A 1” thick slab of ice cover the car. The oil temp was 16 degrees and it started and ran perfectly for ten days … until the last day.

The day before, I used a pail to wash the car. I didn’t wet down the top and used perhaps a dozen buckets of water and dried everything. The car sat overnight and door locks were the first clue in the morning that something was wrong. I clicked to open and the alarm sounded when I opened the door and I shut it down by using the key. Upon putting the key in, it started and the “pull key wait ten seconds” message appeared. I shut it off and the car failed to restart … and displayed the usual REP messages.

I pulled the negative battery cable and waited a few minutes and the vehicle started. Then the REP messages etc. came on. The car ran fine, we were 400 miles from home on a Sunday and forty miles from the nearest dealer so we took off with the idea to get closer to civilization but despite the dash warnings no issues in drivability. We made it to home to Florida!

After going through this thread I can say I’ve checked and cleaned all the ground points, door connectors and anything else. I’ve check wire harnesses and their connectors, the PCM and ABS connectors. The sole issue it had/has is the code P1431 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Performance which comes on only after 40 minute intervals if the tank is more than ½ full and I clear it while rolling. Occasionally I got the B2605HC which clears and stays away for a time.

I pulled the BCM and replaced it with my old one that I kept. Car started with everything working pulled all the codes which were only “U” codes. In the process I turned the radio on and at the same time I did that I got REP messages and all lights lit.

So, the car drives, the cruise control works but everything else is “off-line” I realize this is like getting a haircut over the telephone but any ideas are appreciated.

 

Appreciate the heads up and detail on ground probs. Dealer says it's the multi function switch causing right brake light not to come on, on my 2004 C5, and the switch is $750, tough pill

 

you can prob have an auto electrical shop rebuild it better than new for 200 bucks, what a rip off, prob costs 80 bucks to make it !

 

Very true....re-build it, don't take it to the stealership..

 

Very good, I had some of the same problems when I had a 98 model.

 

Here is an EXCELLENT picture of the ENGINE GROUND (G-106) The main battery ground wire connects to that bolt on the block. Under that main ground wire lug is a SMALL black wire with a white stripe.

That wire MUST be connected or you will have more electrical issues than you know what to do with.

Some people have even mistakenly attached that ground wire to the main wire on the STARTER!!

This is also a good picture for the proper connection of the starter wires:



Hope this helps someone in the future!


Bill

 

Found the problem! There is a shorted (what use to be a )wire beneath the fuse box going to the door control module. No idea what caused the problem (wire's gone) but does explain why it would run normally when the passenger foot well was stomped on!

That said, was in the right place at the right time and found a C6, owned by an NCRS member and perfect being traded for a new C7. Time to move on!

As for my C5 that's seen the lower 48 states, a truly great car. The new owner will find the grounds, splice packs and connectors clean!! Now I have to do the lower 48 all over again!

 

When you get multiple bells whistles and alarms and the car still functions,, the serial data buss is involved.

If the serial data buss (connects ALL the module data lines together serially) gets corrupted or grounded or damaged, it causes modules to go crazy.

The IPC has VISUAL data so thats the one that you see going crazy. Other modules are also having issues too.

The BCM can command all the other modules to do stuff. IE... When you unlock the car with the FOB, the RF signal goes to the RFA module which decodes the FOB signal. It sends that signal to the BCM via the serial data line. The BCM receives the signal, decodes it to a door unlock command and it sends a command thru the serial data line to the Left and Right Door Control Modules which sends a voltage to the door lock solenoids.

Somewhere in the vehicle you have an issue with a serial data line. The modules that give the most issues to serial data lines are the Seat Control module, LDCM and RDCM.

The connector for the SCM is a common damage point. The connectors for the DCM have been known to have spread female pins on numerous connectors. Especially the main harness connectors.

The spread pins cause poor connections and issues with power and data wires. If the module turns on and off rapidly from a bad connection,, it WILL corrupt the serial data lines.

If the BCM gets WET or DAMP, it can do the same thing/


Hope that helps

Bill