Bill,
thanks for your post on that connector that corrodes! I checked mine after seeing your example. I have a 2001 C5. It's an odd connector, very difficult to take apart and I don't know why car manufacturers make plastic connectors with no quick release tabs. I had a sort of white powder coming out of this connector, so once I got it open I cleaned it with contact spray and compressed air, then used a wire brush on the contacts. My car as a threaded post that sticks out from the frame with a 10mm nut that hold this thing on. Had problems with my courtesy lights staying on while driving at night. It's still driving me crazy. thanks for you post!

 

Dont forget to check and clean the SPLICE PACK SP 101 on the wiring harness under the bumper!

 

Bill Curlee, could you please repost a LARGER version of image #9? Thanks in advance.

 

I have a situation when I fill up my 98 Roadster after a few miles the Fuel gauge goes to empty and the check gauges light comes on. It will work normally after I use some gas then turn it off and restart later.

I assume this is most likely a bad ground issue, I have clean the grounds with the multi connection's in the engine area which stopped the trac control issue, but cannot seem to locate where the 4 ground locations are in the rear of the car.

Anyone have specific info on where these are located?

Also Splice pack 101 is under the front bumper I would guess...as my airbag light is still on I should check that as well.

Thanks for any info.

 

READ THE DTCs!!! The only ground that could cause an issue is G-104 near the battery!

The DTCs will give you the problem causing the codes.

Use some Chevron TECHRON in the fuel tank... Do several treatemnts and see if that resolves the issue

There is one more ground but its most likely not your issue Its G-205 next to the drivers seat belt retractor assy

 

http://www.obd-codes.com/

You can find all the OBDC codes here and their definitions

 

My 01 coupe srarts 3--5 seconds quits running,, low oil light comes on. I have read every thing on corvette forum and anything else I can find...I have followed every step buy the numbers and even went as far as replacing the Ing. switch with new one. Still does the same thing. Cleaning grounds, replacing every part described throughout the car has not solved the problem... But ,, the one and only thing that has worked from day one (several month's) is disconnecting the NEG BAT cable over night. At first it would work fine for couple weeks, but as time went on,, worked only day's and now only a couple starts/ local runs. The only thing I have not replaced or up dated is the PCM.
Any ideas or suggestions would be great. I have run out of options and information.
corvette forum member *** mike venth email; cfiventhmj@verizon.net

 

Mike any codes at all? The very first thing that came into my head was fuel pressure. I'm assuming you see the low oil pressure after the car quits,which of course would be obvious. For starting suggestions, I would gauge the fuel rail and see if pressure is being maintained.

 

No codes. Also, while the engine is running (when it runs) the DIC shows LOW OIL LEVEL.
oil pressure is great. I will check fuel pressure. When Battery is disconnected, all systems work fine.... Low oil level is out and the pumps run great. Starts , runs, has great power.

 

FWIW when I saw the update notice to the post it reminded me of my wife's LS3 Camaro that behaved a lot like your description. It showed no codes. It was under warranty and I was literally waiting for the flatbed to take it to the dealer when I noticed the air inlet going to the MAF was loose. This affected the A/F mixture causing the stall. Once tightened - problem solved.

I'd be inclined to take a few minutes go over the mechanical connections. You may get lucky and find something really simple to fix. Good luck!

 

The OIL Level sensor/switch is connected to the PCM at Connector C1 Pin 70

It goes through SPLICE PACK SP 122 to chassis ground on G-105

When the PCM gets a low reading from the switch, it sends a digital signal to the IPC telling it to turn on the low oil message.

So,, that being said,, you have to test the switch circuit to make sure that it is not grounded and sending a low oil signal to the PCM. That should be easy enough.

When the engine shuts down and leaves NO DTCs as a result, it thinks that it is shutting down normally.

You stated that you replaced the IGNITION SWITCH but, you could still have an issue with the ignition switch CONNECTOR.

Disconnect the Ignition switch connector and carefully examine each FEMALE PIN in that connector. Look for pins that are melted in the plastic socket, bent pins, pins that are spread apart.

Here is an example of bent pins... The two pins in the black connector are too loose and the tong need to be re-bent tighter so it makes better contact with the male pin:



Give that a look see

Bill

 

Just though I would add this info; won't apply to everyone.
I was having all these same problems and always suspected a short or ground problem. While working on the front passenger side with the tire off I decided to check the wire going from the wheel sensor to where it pluged into another wire on top of the frame rail. I could feel a scuffed area where the wire was touching the shock absorber. Closer exam revealed that it had worn through the outer wire cover and through both wires inside. They were not worn all the way through but bare wire was exposed on both. Could not find a complete replacement wire so bought some weather proof wire butt connectors (O,Rielly auto) and wire shrink wrap. The connectors were a little more expensive but worked great. When you heat them up not only does the connector housing shrink but there is something inside that melts and seals the ends.
Reset all codes and, Amen, no more lights.

 

Good find. That circuit operates in millivolts so, ANY amount of damage to the wiring or connections can cause issues. Sounds like you fixed it correctly.

Normally that wire isn't near the shock so, make sure that its routed correctly.

BC

 

Thanks

 

Bill,
How do you get that connector apart ??... Looks like a tab on one side but I can't pull the connector apart...my 01 has only 39,000 miles so there should not be a lot of that vertigris present but I still want to check !!... Thanks !!

 

Theres a TAB on both sides. Wedge in a small scresriver in each one

Latch a vise grip on the tab and grab the body and rock and pull

Bill

 

Thanks Bill,
I did try to get a small screwdriver underneath one of the tabs and pull (no joy) but didn't see a similar tab on the other end...I don't believe there was one on the opposite side either except for the comb clip on the back which shouldn't have to be removed !!...thanks again !!...I'll try tomorrow...maybe a little WD 40 wouldn't hurt... Have some DeoxIT we use at the Airlines for cleaning contacts... They should use screw off Cannon plugs on these cars like they use in the airline industry for what one of these cars cost...LOL !!

 

I've read thru this post and am subscribed to updates and don't recall reading anything about how I got things temporarily fixed. So here goes a post that makes no sense to me until I find the smoking gun. But help is needed!!! Back in May I took my 2001 to New England on a road trip. Lots of potholes, rain and rough roads. The car has been to all the lower 48 states and never a problem.

On the way back on I75 in Georgia the BCM shut down, the OBD port would not communicate and there was no indication the car was running badly. When I shut it down it would not restart. The Chevy Dealer (good people) in Byron Ga. went thru the modules, checked grounds and when the BCM was reattached the problem sorted it self out. The tech thought it was a connection problem, maybe a bad BCM.

Drove it back to Florida and had no issues until we got caught in the rain and the dash lit up, REP, oil tires etc and every other message. We were on a busy two lane road without shoulders and there was no pulling over. The car still ran as if there was no problem and remembering what the tech said about a loose connection I asked my wife to stomp on the passenger floor over the BCM. The radio chirped, the door locks clicked and the gauges were restored. All "U" comm codes were cleared and there were no other codes that those.

A month or so later it happened again. Cruising at highway speeds, it started to rain and we stopped at a restaurant to eat and before shutting it off the REP warnings and all other light up. Once again, she stomped the floor and the radio chirped, horn and door locks chirped and the gauges went back to normal. It failed one more time on the way home and another stomp session restored everything. I recall hearing the radio and the door locks before the gauges came to life.

In this time period I had checked the grounds, the connectors in the door, the seat, cleaned and used dielectric grease. Check the drains and the udder and nothing looked wrong. The pics and comments by Bill Curlee are great ... but no smoking gun. I replaced the BCM about two months ago and no problems until yesterday.

Took the car out in the rain without an issue, parked it and it was in the rain all day. Went to leave and "nothing" no remote door unlock, wouldn't start and the dash lights were all on. It was raining, there was/is no sign of water inside the vehicle.

I went to the passenger side felt the floor and carpet which was dry. I balled my fist and punched over the BCM ... nothing. The I turned the key on, did the same, the horn chirped and I could see the gauges move. I went around put my foot on the clutch and it started and ran. The codes present were U codes and all H and they cleared.

In a few I am going to look at the fuses and the relays in the passenger floor area. I jokingly said to a friend I need to have Madam Zora in Tampa sacrifice a chicken over the hood but before I do that ANY ideas are welcome.

 

Good Morning, Bill... 3:00am here at the moment. I've just decided to BURN this set of Factory Manuals. ugh! "Heads Up Display", what they cover in the manual, this could be an Owner's Manual.
My Problem... Last night driving home the 'Guage' section of the HUD disappeared.
The Speedo and Tach are still displaying, fully functional and adjustable.
But the right side of the HUD, the guage, is 'out'.
Before I go pulling this item out of the dash, (no small feat in itself), is there a bulb that can be replaced? or is this a 'whole unit' item, where I need a new HUD complete?
Thanks in advance, and the blessings of Zora Duntov upon you.

 

Hello,
A friend of mine has a issue with the rear fog light that refuses to turn on.
I've checked all the harness again and again, ground connection, +12V on push button, tried with a new Fog push button. The last thing I can't check is the ground connection inside the BCM, that connect the rear fog relay to the ground. If I connect the ground of this relay to the ground the system works. So is there a risk to make a test with another BCM ? (I won't start the engine) I only need the ignition on (engine off), park lamp and front fog light on to energize the rear fog light.
Unfortunatly I didn't performed the Lighting System Diagnostic because tech II is needed
Thanks for your help.
Jm