When you read the DTCs using the DIC and pull up the EBTCM, does it say NO COMMS or NO CODES?

With all those messages, you have to have codes. Have you checked all the fuses for that module?

Have you checked the VOLTAGES to all the fuses for that module. Should read full battery voltage to chassis ground. Some will need ignition ON to receive voltage.

BC

 

Shouldn't I have a check engine light on if there are codes? I have cleared all codes with data logging reader, did that to get the throttle to go back to normal after it locked up. Since then I have only gotten one code for secondary air bank one. I am pretty sure this is do to the blower and headers install. That is the only code that I pick up with the code reader/data logger. I will have to use the dash to get codes and see if it differs. Thanks for the info.

 

The ONLY way to be sure that you READ and CLEAR all the DTCs is to use the GM Tech 2 or use the INTERNAL Code Reader.

You cna have BODY codes and or EBTCM DTCs and some readers WILL NOT READ or Clear them.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!









BC

 

I had the same problems with the traction control and reduced engine power but also my passenger door controls on both sides quit working after cleaning the grounds everything returned to normal so thank you very much for your post it was a headache saver.

 

I'll tackle the grounds but learned an expensive lesson. My wife has a 2000 with active handling, after flashing the ABS code we replaced the ABS pump/module to the tune of over $3000, then had other codes start flashing and the streeing column locked up. Turned out all we needed was a new battery, probably didn't need the pump module but trusted the dealer. With the new battery it's a different car. It sits more than it's driven so I'll keep a trickle charger on it.

 

my 99 has problem - starts fine, but when shift auto trans in gear car shuts down. code shows pull key for 10 seconds. I have to do this 4-6 times to keep running. does not happen every time but fairly regular embarrassing problem for nice vette. my mechanics are baffled because of problem.

 

LOL!! I love it when $100 hr mechanics get stumped!

You have a COLUMN LOCK ISSUE... Plain and simple.

First things first.. Remove the battery, charge it and go have it tested. Low/weak battery will have a negative effect on column lock operation as will other C5 electrical modules.

That said,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, purchase and install a column lock bypass!!!!!!!!!!!!

The latest and greatest is the LMC5 CLB but there is also he Corvettes Of Houston CLB

Check the battery and replace if it test marginal and GET THE CLB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!

BC

 

I apologize if this has ben covered within this thread already, but of the 13 ground locations, which ones are multi-pin and which are strap with eyelet type? Again thanks for providing all of this information.

 

Muliipin= 101, 102, 201, 202, 301, 302

 

Thank you sir.

 

I have a 2001 Corvette convertible and have the following door lock problem. The key fobs (original #1 and #2 with new batteries) will both open the trunk but neither will unlock either door, but you can hear a click separately in each door when that door is activated to unlock with either fob. I use the key to open the driver's door. Once inside, neither unlock switch will unlock either door, but you get the same clicking sound as with the fob. Both the fobs and the door switches will unlock both doors. In essence, the doors can't be unlocked electronically with fobs or door switches, but do click as when trying to unlock the doors. But both the fobs and door switches will unlock lock both doors. Any ideas?

 

I have a 2001 Corvette convertible with door locks problem. Neither door will electronically unlock with either fob (original #1 and #2 with new batteries). Each door will make a clicking sound when either fob is used to attempt to unlock the door(s). Neither inside door lock/unlock button will unlock either door but you get the same clicking sound inside the door. Both fobs and both inside lock/unlock buttons will lock both doors. Any ideas before changing out door modules?

 

I let my car sit for all of 3 days and when I came back to it, there wasn't even enough juice for the key fob to work. Unlocked it manually, put the key in the ignition and the gauges lit up very dimly. Made a few buzzing noises too.

My car was having issues before with the stereo clock resetting to 1:00 and a weird intermittent whirring noise coming from the CD player when the car was turned off. I'm terrible with electrical issues and have no idea where to start.

 

Bill,

This is an amazing thread. I followed it to a tee on my 99 Z51 and haven't seen any of the quirky codes or random battery draining that prompted me to search for you in the first place.

Now I am experiencing an issue where INJ 1 fuse blows randomly. Sometimes simply changing the fuse solves it but other times I have to remove all connections and electronically change the state of the circuit with my digital multimeter. Today I was trying to isolate the ground and noticed a considerable difference between #1, #5 injector plug. This was static with no fuse. After checking all odd connectors I went back to make sure the difference was still there, all readings were normal. I am suspecting a relay might be sticking but I cannot find a diagram of the fuel injection circuit anywhere. Any ideas?

Cory

 

Cory

Here is an 02 fuel injector schematic:





The circuit is the same for yours but the fuse and relay numbers may be different: I just looked and there the same

BC

 

Untape the harness that runs down the drivers side manifold area and look for rubbed/gacked wires like THIS!

 

Bill, you are my newest hero! Thanks!

Cory

 

Bill, you are my newest hero! Thanks!

Cory

 

My Very first stop. And my Very next beginning. Thanks for the info!

Cheers from North Haven, CT!

 

Gales Ferry CT!

Bill