IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,785
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From: Sacramento California
When cleaning the ground connectors..... Does the plastic housing just come apart? How are you cleaning the contact pins? Cleaner, wire brush??? Do you apply any type of electrical grease, corrosion protectant, ....? My 97' often has the TC/ABS warning and when it does, my steering feels as if it is now manual without any power. While fine at speed, if I was slow rolling, it's hard to turn the wheel. Any advice?
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
What happens when it fails to crank is that solenoid spool hangs up and doesn't slide so theres no high current motor contact inside the starter,
BC
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
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Bill,
According to some of the guys on this forum, the gas gauge problem is common to the C5. It comes from sulfur build up within the sender. Either Serfoam, adding Techron II, or filling up with Chevron with Techron solves the problem. Not permanently, so repeating the process on a fairly regular basis is needed. Just added seafoam to mine yesterday, and the gauge is trying to act normal but still intermittent.
According to some of the guys on this forum, the gas gauge problem is common to the C5. It comes from sulfur build up within the sender. Either Serfoam, adding Techron II, or filling up with Chevron with Techron solves the problem. Not permanently, so repeating the process on a fairly regular basis is needed. Just added seafoam to mine yesterday, and the gauge is trying to act normal but still intermittent.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill,
According to some of the guys on this forum, the gas gage problem is common to the C5. It comes from sulfur build up within the sender. Either Serfoam, adding Techron II, or filling up with Chevron with Techron solves the problem. Not permanently, so repeating the process on a fairly regular basis is needed. Just added seafoam to mine yesterday, and the gauge is trying to act normal but still intermittent.
According to some of the guys on this forum, the gas gage problem is common to the C5. It comes from sulfur build up within the sender. Either Serfoam, adding Techron II, or filling up with Chevron with Techron solves the problem. Not permanently, so repeating the process on a fairly regular basis is needed. Just added seafoam to mine yesterday, and the gauge is trying to act normal but still intermittent.
Gary
The Sulfur contamination issue has been known since late 98. Yes, chemically removing the the deposits is the easiest and preferred method of resolving the issue.
IF,,,,,,,,,,, that process doesn't resolve the issue, reading the reported DTCs will allow the technician to zero in further on the problem. I have seen corroded grounds, poor connections on the tank connectors, damaged sending units, sending units that are so contaminated that they require hand cleaning or replacement.
If a good "HIGH TIER" fuel is used, you seldom need to treat the fuel system to prevent the issue. My 02 ZO6 has never had the issue and never been treated to prevent it. I use SHELL Fuel or Texaco fuel for my fill ups as much as possible..
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 136,140
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From: I live my life by 2 rules. 1) Never share everything you know. 2)
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
You are 100% correct. The solenoid is just a large high current switch. When you apply 12 volts to the control terminal, you energize an electro magnet and that pulls a spool which makes a washer complete the connections between the positive battery terminal and the starter motor positive terminal in the starter.
What happens when it fails to crank is that solenoid spool hangs up and doesn't slide so theres no high current motor contact inside the starter,
BC
What happens when it fails to crank is that solenoid spool hangs up and doesn't slide so theres no high current motor contact inside the starter,
BC
but wasn't sure if the BCM looks at the current draw of the solenoid (if it doesn't pull in, its current draw is much higher or if the coil is open, obviously there is no current draw) and set either of those as a fault condition.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Ken
I LOVE your avatiar!!
Can you send me the picture that you used?? I will PM you the e-mail address if you can..
The BCM does not monitor the statrer or the solenoid. All it does is it supplies a ground to operate the low voltage / low current side of the TDR relay when the BCM is happy with all the security functions.
You can run a jumper wire to ground and to the Yellow/Black side of the relay and eliminate the BCM from the circuit and it wont care..
Bill
I LOVE your avatiar!!
Can you send me the picture that you used?? I will PM you the e-mail address if you can..The BCM does not monitor the statrer or the solenoid. All it does is it supplies a ground to operate the low voltage / low current side of the TDR relay when the BCM is happy with all the security functions.
You can run a jumper wire to ground and to the Yellow/Black side of the relay and eliminate the BCM from the circuit and it wont care..
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 136,140
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From: I live my life by 2 rules. 1) Never share everything you know. 2)
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
The BCM does not monitor the statrer or the solenoid. All it does is it supplies a ground to operate the low voltage / low current side of the TDR relay when the BCM is happy with all the security functions.
You can run a jumper wire to ground and to the Yellow/Black side of the relay and eliminate the BCM from the circuit and it wont care..
Bill
You can run a jumper wire to ground and to the Yellow/Black side of the relay and eliminate the BCM from the circuit and it wont care..
Bill
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,394
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne FL
Bill, Do you know where the solitary ground wire that connects to the front drivers side frame rail goes? I seem to have a problem with that ground. It's showing abnormally high resistance and I've replaced the connector at the frame rail but, still getting high resistance readings through that single wire. Thanks
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
What specific component is having the high resistance problem? All the front end components connect to a SPLICE PACK. (SP-100) The Splice Pack is constructed just like Chassis Ground G-101 except it doesn't have a ground tong. SP 100 is tapped to the wire harness that runs across the frame header.
You will have to remove the two under the bumper close out panel to find it. From what I remember it closer to the passenger side.
It looks just like this (actual picture);
Pop the white top off the ground connector and inside you will find a metal ground strip that connects all the female pins together:
This is the worst case scenario. This ground connector is located under the battery and was exposed to battery acid but, is an example of SP construction:
After cleaning:
Disassemble the SPLICE PACK and clean it up and recheck your ground readings. One wire in the SP goes up to Chassis ground G-101
Bill
You will have to remove the two under the bumper close out panel to find it. From what I remember it closer to the passenger side.
It looks just like this (actual picture);
Pop the white top off the ground connector and inside you will find a metal ground strip that connects all the female pins together:
This is the worst case scenario. This ground connector is located under the battery and was exposed to battery acid but, is an example of SP construction:
After cleaning:
Disassemble the SPLICE PACK and clean it up and recheck your ground readings. One wire in the SP goes up to Chassis ground G-101
Bill
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,394
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne FL
At point G101 (left front frame rail) there's a ground splice pack and a single ground wire with loop connector. My splice pack resistance readings are fine but when I check a resistance reading between the single ground wire and a good ground the readings are elevated.
Given the car isn't running; I can't get it up on blocks to get a jack under it to lift it.
The component I'm having an issue with is the fuel pump. No fuel pressure and pump does not initialize when turning on the key. Thanks
Given the car isn't running; I can't get it up on blocks to get a jack under it to lift it.
The component I'm having an issue with is the fuel pump. No fuel pressure and pump does not initialize when turning on the key. Thanks
Last edited by Z06ufgrad2002; Feb 3, 2013 at 10:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,,,, the Single Ground Wire is not grounded to the chassis ground. It connects to individual components that connect to other components and controls. When you remove the eyelet from ground, I would expect to see resistance between the eyelet and ground.
The fuel pump does not use G-101 or the eyelet for ground. Here is the schematic for the fuel pump and gage:
G 401 & 105 are the grounds that you need to examine and that one is in the drivers side rear wheel well on the frame.
Bill
The fuel pump does not use G-101 or the eyelet for ground. Here is the schematic for the fuel pump and gage:
G 401 & 105 are the grounds that you need to examine and that one is in the drivers side rear wheel well on the frame.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Feb 3, 2013 at 11:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Disconnect the relay and measure the ground pins to battery NEG to see if you have good grounds on both ground terminals before you get too deep in replacing stuff. A meter is your friend in this case.
Bill
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Feb 3, 2013 at 11:59 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,394
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne FL
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you check the grounds at the relay to chassis ground and they check out good,,, measure the Voltage supplied to the relay that feeds the fuel pump. Its supplied by the IGNITION SWITCH. The contacts in the switch that feed the pump could very well be corroded/burnt. Try this to verify:
Disconnect the battery POS terminal and Neg terminal.. Read resistance from the battery positive lead to the fuel pump fuse (F/PMP) and see what it reads. The Ignition Switch will need to be ON /RUN! There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Take the reading from BOTH of those test points. Should be fairly low. If its high,, the ignition switch contacts could be burnt and cause high resistance/low voltave output.. Cycle the switch OFF & On several times and see if the resistance changes. With a good switch, the resistance between the positive battery cable and the fuel pump fuse should be pretty low.
Post the resistance value that you read and will advise further if necessary.
BC
Disconnect the battery POS terminal and Neg terminal.. Read resistance from the battery positive lead to the fuel pump fuse (F/PMP) and see what it reads. The Ignition Switch will need to be ON /RUN! There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Take the reading from BOTH of those test points. Should be fairly low. If its high,, the ignition switch contacts could be burnt and cause high resistance/low voltave output.. Cycle the switch OFF & On several times and see if the resistance changes. With a good switch, the resistance between the positive battery cable and the fuel pump fuse should be pretty low.
Post the resistance value that you read and will advise further if necessary.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Feb 3, 2013 at 03:22 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,394
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne FL
If you check the grounds at the relay to chassis ground and they check out good,,, measure the Voltage supplied to the relay that feeds the fuel pump. Its supplied by the IGNITION SWITCH. The contacts in the switch that feed the pump could very well be corroded/burnt. Try this to verify:
Disconnect the battery POS terminal and Neg terminal.. Read resistance from the battery positive lead to the fuel pump fuse (F/PMP) and see what it reads. The Ignition Switch will need to be ON /RUN! There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Take the reading from BOTH of those test points. Should be fairly low. If its high,, the ignition switch contacts could be burnt and cause high resistance/low voltave output.. Cycle the switch OFF & On several times and see if the resistance changes. With a good switch, the resistance between the positive battery cable and the fuel pump fuse should be pretty low.
Post the resistance value that you read and will advise further if necessary.
BC
Disconnect the battery POS terminal and Neg terminal.. Read resistance from the battery positive lead to the fuel pump fuse (F/PMP) and see what it reads. The Ignition Switch will need to be ON /RUN! There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Take the reading from BOTH of those test points. Should be fairly low. If its high,, the ignition switch contacts could be burnt and cause high resistance/low voltave output.. Cycle the switch OFF & On several times and see if the resistance changes. With a good switch, the resistance between the positive battery cable and the fuel pump fuse should be pretty low.
Post the resistance value that you read and will advise further if necessary.
BC
Positive terminal to the fuse read 8.2 and 8.3 ohms respectively. That sounds good to me but no clue on what they should be. But, they are quite low. Thanks Bill. I need to get the car up in the air and check the ground point at the block on the drivers side (G105). That's the point where the ground strap termination spot I cleaned up earlier originates from. At least it's running now so I can move it around and get a jack under it. :-)
Last edited by Z06ufgrad2002; Feb 3, 2013 at 05:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Read positive battey cable to the fuse one more time and have someone slowly cycle the ignition switch 5-6 times off to run/on and take a reading each time it gets cycled back to RUN/ON see if the reading stays the same.
Bill
Bill
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Hampton Virginia
Bill
I purchased my 2001 corvette convertible in December 2012 (2 months old). I would like to thank you for your wealth of knowledge and enthusiasm. You have helped me Immensely with the issues I have had with my abused corvette. The head light gear is fixed and the passenger power seat is fixed. I am tackeling the passenger side power door lock now. It locks but wont un lock. You have a great post on how to fix that problem and I am going to tackle that this weekend.
The power seat pin outs were perfect. I had trouble trying to find an male and female power seat plug just like the one from the factory. GM told me they discontinued them.
Thanks again for all your help! You should write a book (repair manual) I think alot of people would buy it......
I purchased my 2001 corvette convertible in December 2012 (2 months old). I would like to thank you for your wealth of knowledge and enthusiasm. You have helped me Immensely with the issues I have had with my abused corvette. The head light gear is fixed and the passenger power seat is fixed. I am tackeling the passenger side power door lock now. It locks but wont un lock. You have a great post on how to fix that problem and I am going to tackle that this weekend.
The power seat pin outs were perfect. I had trouble trying to find an male and female power seat plug just like the one from the factory. GM told me they discontinued them.
Thanks again for all your help! You should write a book (repair manual) I think alot of people would buy it......