After replacing the battery and cleaning the grounds my swps fault codes have not reappeared. It's been 3 weeks now.

 

Run some Chevron Techron Fuel Syetem cleaner in a couple of tanks of fuel and see if that helps.. Also check chassis ground G-401 (ground stud in the drivers rear wheel well on the side of the frame)

 

A big thanks from one Bill to another. Had the crazy faults pop up on mine like others have mentionsed. Put in a fresh battery (didn't fix the issues), did the two connecters (looked clean) and the main battery chassis ground under the hood and the door connectors and problems seem to be gone. Scary when the gauges all go crazy besides the service warnings. I think I may still get rid of the connectors and go with eyelets. By-the-way, if anyone else is doing the door connectors make sure you remove the accordian boot from the body side, connectors on mine are actually tucked inside the body, I removed the door side first and cound't even get to the connectors.
Thanks again.

 

great info BC ! IM SAVING THIS

 

I've only had my 2002 C5 Coupe 2 1/2 months now. Took a 2 hour ride and on the way out I was getting service brake and traction controll messages. When I parked at our destination and tryed to start it up an hour later, nothing. No clicks, no lights... nothing. I checked fuses and pushed on any electrical connection I could find. Kept trying to start, nothing, but just when I though about calling a tow truck, I tried again and it started. I'll have to try the ground cleaning as Bill said. Does anyone have additional ideas. Thanks, Charlie

 

Charlie

Grounds are very important and can cause some very strange and annoying issues BUT,, you issue seems like its something other than a ground issue.

Start with the battery terminals them selves. Remove the terminals and clean them, clean the battery POS and NEG post also with a wire brush. Spray the cable terminals out with brake parts cleaner. Reinstall them and make sure that they are properly torqued to the required 11 ft/lbs.

When you said that you didn't have any LIGHTS,, that tells me that the battery terminals are suspect. Before you do anything to them, examine them. CAN you move either the POS or NEG terminal by hand???? If they are loose, thats pretty much the issue.

Let me know how you make out.

BC

 

I am working on a friends 2002 vert and I am getting the dreaded 1214 failure code. Now here is the problem. The battery will not hold a charge, even overnight. I had the alternator checked, and it is fine. I got the ABS/trac light to go off one time when I spiked the electrical system. Any hints? I checked a couple of the grounds and they were fine. The car did sit up for a 4 month period.

 

The alternator has NOTHING to do with a battery running down over night. (unless the diodes in it are roasted! )

You have a an excessive battery current draw. Read your battery current draw and make sure it 25 milliamps or less. I bet your are close to 1 amp.

BC

 

How would I trace the draw? I really appreciate your help. I am in way over my head on this car! What could be pulling the battery down?

 

Review POST# 590 in this post and it deals all about current and what is excessive and how to find the issue:

 

Clean your grounds first and make sure your passsengers foot well and BCM is dry.

 

Bill,

Great stuff. Does your documentation tell you which ground connectors is located at each of the 13 locations? Have "no brake" lights. Bulbs good, tail lights work, turn signals are good, but no brake lights or rear safety flasher.

 

thought was a good list to post again
engine ground strap top left frame behind left front wheel well

G101 left front frame (with SP101)
G102 right front frame (with SP100)
G103 left front of engine
G104 frame next to battery (with G108 & SP102)
G105 left lower engine block, engine ground strap & wire
G106 Battery negative pole
G107 Left rear head
G108 frame next to battery (with G104)
G201 bottom of A-pillar, left (with SP201 & SP203)
G202 bottom of A-pillar, rt, bolted at the bottom (with SP202)
G205 inside door pillar driver seat (with G301)
G301 inside door pillar passenger seat
G302 inside door pillar driver seat (with G205)
G401 left rear outer frame
G402 right rear inner frame
SP201 bottom of A-pillar, left (bolted with G201)
SP202 bottom if A-pillar, rt (bolted to G202)
SP203 bottom of A-pillar, left (taped to wire bundle, with G201 coming out of it)

G101: windshield washer fluid pump
Windshield washer fluid level switch
Brake fluid switch
Headlamp door assembly, left

G102: cooling fan, right
Cooling fan 3 relay 44
Horn assembly
Underhood lamp
Headlamp door assembly, right
Headlamp door control module
A/c compressor clutch
A/c compressor clutch diode
Secondary air injection pump

G103: Electronic brake control module (ebcm)
G104: battery negative pole
Splice pack SP102:
Marker lamp, right front
Marker lamp, left front
Park/turn signal lamp, right front
Park/turn signal lamp, left front
Turn signal lamp, right front
Turn signal lamp, left front

Splice pack SP208:
Body control module (bcm)
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Data link connector (dlc)
Inflatable restraint & diagnosis module
Inflatable restraint ip module disable switch
Park/neutral switch
Remote control door lock receiver

G105: fuel pump relay 35
Engine oil level switch
Heater O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 1
Heater O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 2
Heater O2 sensor, bank 2, sensor 1
Heater O2 sensor, bank 2, sensor 2

G106: battery negative pole
Ignition relay 42
Powertrain control modules (pcm, 4 wires)
Throttle actuator control module (tac)
Mass airflow sensor (maf)

G107: ignition control modules 1-3-5-7
Ignition control modules 2-4-6-8
G108: Electronic brake control module (ebcm)
G201: Splice pack SP201:
Data link connector (dlc)
Air temperature actuator
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Traction/suspension control switch
Driver door module (ddm)
Door latch, driver
Auxiliary power outlet
Windshield wiper motor
Steering column lock
Footwell courtesy lamp, left
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Hazard switch
Telescopic actuator switch

Splice pack SP203:
Remote CD changer
Fuse block I/P
Speaker, right door
Speaker, left door
Radio

G202: Splice pack SP202:
Passenger door module (pdm)
Door latch, passenger side
Body control module (bcm)
HVAC control module
IP compartment lamp
Footwell courtesy lamp, right
Vanity mirror lamp, left
Vanity mirror lamp, right
Inside rearview mirror
Bose relay 45
Ignition switch
Blower motor relay c60
Blower motor control processor
Hood ajar switch
Cigar lighter
A/t shift lock control solenoid

G205: seat belt switch, driver
Seat control module (scm), driver
Seat pump, driver
Seat belt switch, driver
Seat relay center, driver

G301: defogger grid
G302: Splice pack SP302:
Seat relay center, passenger
Seat pump, passenger
Rear compartment courtesy lamp, right
Rear compartment courtesy lamp, left
Rear compartment lid latch
Rear compartment lid latch, right
Rear compartment lid latch, left
Folding top lid latch
Folding top release switch
Fuel door lock actuator
Radio power antenna

G401: Splice pack SP400:
Fuel pump & sender assembly, left
Fuel level sender, right
Tail, stop, turn signal, rear left
Tail, stop, turn signal, rear right
Center high mounted stop lamp
Backup lamp, right
Backup lamp, left
License lamp, right rear
License lamp, left rear
Marker lamp, left rear
Marker lamp, right rear

G402 electronic suspension control module (esc)
_

 

I'm getting high oil pressure readings. 128-130 psi.
I am assuming an electric problem, because I get these readings with the key on, but the engine NOT runnining, as well as when driving.

I recently did the ignition switch rebuild and cleaned the grounds. That cured all my code, voltage, warnings messages.
But this new issue has me baffled.

Any help or suggestions is geatly appreciated

 

Your oil pressure sensor has gone bad. Common LS1 issue.

Search is your friend.

 

Thank you so much.

I did run a search for high oil pressure and oil pressure sensor, but it returned a lot of stuff that did not appear to reflect my issue.
It did however give me results for replacing the sensor.
I will follow that and hopefully that will fix me up.

Thanks again.

 

The symptoms continue --- While driving, the power still on to everything else, but motor dies, then would refire when depressing and then dropping the clutch, or cranking with the key. At first it would not set any codes, but for the first time this week it set PCM 1637. I don't quite understand the explanation supplied in another forum (see below), but it seems to sound like something that would create this situation, am I on the right track?

If it is the starter solenoid, any tips on getting the right starter to replace with?

Thanks, Clint

 

Well here goes.. It all started when I walked away from the car with the passive on. When I got out of range the car locked and the alarm went off. I found that the only way i could get it to stop was to turn the passive feature off on the Key fob. Next I notice when I turn on a blinker it hyperflashes like a bulb is burned out but it's not. i push the hazard switch in and the hazards flash as they should. Turn on the blinkers and the fronts don't work but the rears hyperflash. Next i notice the DRL's are not working, but when I turn the blinker on both DRL's flash quickly and dim.
Next i notice that when I turn on the head lights both blinker indicators light up for about 10 minutes then they go out. blinkers still dont work in front and hyperflash in the rear. I research a little and decide i have a bad blinker switch. i order a new one and install it. No change. I have a spare hazard switch so i change it out while I'm in there. (That was easier than expected) Still no change. What else could it be? Am I looking at a BCM repair?
Apparently a previous owner had some issues because when I changed out the multi function switch I found the connector had a couple of melted spots on it and two of the wires had been cut and bypassed around the plug. I believe Lou99 has the exact same issue as me. If anyone has any ideas what to look for next I would appreciat the help. I'm about ready to remove the entire dash assembly and see what else a previous owner screwed up in there. I do know my check engine light is eather burned out or that wire has been cut too. I get an 0650 code on that circuit.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Rick

UPDATE>>>>> Looks like I found the problem. Codes indicated a problem in the blinker circuit. I pulled both bliners out and checked the wiring. All good. I checked the side marker lights, all good. I unplugged the harness and turned the passive feature back on and no alarms. Plugged the harness back in, walked away from the car and the alarm went off when the car locked. There is a splice pack in this harness. I pulled the splice pack apart and found one of the sockets where a spade connects was open and was not making contact. I put a thin bladed screwdriver down the slot and closed the gap. Plugged the harness back in and all works as it should. Blinkers work, running lights work, car locks without alarming and best of all no BCM codes for front blinkers.

 

dielectric grease is the way to go. even if any connectors an any vehicle never get wet, condensation alwasy occurs in enclosed spaces, ie, inside the sealed connector cavity

 

the pictures in the original post are gone.