The STEALERSHIP doesnt do anything for free. They have a GM TECH II that can data log but, your going to pay thru the nose for the road time.

Are you SURE that you dont have a vacuum leak. That would be the very first thing that I would check.

If and I mean IF,,,,,you need a new stock mid pipe with CATs,,,,there are TONs of people on the forum that have them laying around and will sell them for 1/3 of what you would pay for new OEM.

BC

 

I did have a leak at the air intake duct. I replaced it with one offered by Var-a-ram and relocated the MAF per their instructions. But this was back in July/August and there not DTC codes but I did see a drop im gas mileage and found the leak in the investigation. Hoping that someone in the west Phoenix or north west Phoenix area would be available to log the car. I did check for leaks yesterday and pulled and cleaned the K & N filter. Drove for about 30 minutes and the check engine light reappeared with P0420 code. Thank you, I appreciate your time and thoughts on this issue.

 

I am considering purchase of an Actron 9180. It would seem that a scan tool would be a good investment. If nothing else to confirm DTC.

 

I am having an issue where my engine temp gauge pegs out then returns to normal after 30secs-1min, sometimes longer. When it pegs out the temp on the DIC shows as XXX and when I reset it with the DIC it causes the car to spike lean/fat/lean/fat for about 10-20 seconds. Does this sound like a ground issue or is it a problem with the engine coolant temp sensor or the wiring harness/connector for the temp sensor? I am selling the car and this is the last little gremlin I need to deal with to get it perfect. Thanks

Cajun

 

I found part of the answer to my question below by searching the Internet. Seems the ground is G201 and is located somewhere around the bottom of the A pillar on the driver's side.

Bill, can you tell me what it takes to get to that particular ground in order to clean it.

Thank you.
Frank Hamilton




Quote from earlier post:
"Bill. I really appreciate all of your information, especially the body ground info. I plan to try to clean up all of mine. I have a 2002 convertible that I bought in 2004 with 3K miles. It now has 108K. I live in KY and drive it year round, so I'm sure I'm as prone to the corrosion you pictured as anyone.
I have a specific question, however. I'm having the infamous intermittent turn signal/emergency flasher problem. Since it only happens when there's a lot of moisture in the air, and goes away later in the day when the sun has warmed the car up, I'm guessing I've got an issue with the body ground where the turn signal flasher is grounded.
Can you point me to this particular body ground, as that is the one I'd like to attack first, especially with the NCM 15th Anniversary Caravan and Museum Celebration coming up next week. Hate to have to be giving hand signals all the way to Bowling Green.
Thank you.
Frank Hamilton"

 

The 2001 Coupe MIL showed the codes above. The freeze frame data is:

Stored Codes
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
Pending Codes
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
View Freeze Frame
DTCFRZF P0174
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 CL
LOAD_PCT(%) 3.5
ETC(ˇć) 87
SHRTFT1(%) 2.3
LONGFT1(%) 25.0
SHRTFT2(%) 0.0
LONGFT2(%) 25.0
MAP(kPa) 37
RPM(/min) 895
VSS(km/h) 8
MAF(g/s) 9.92
TP(%) 9.4
If you have any ideas or help it is greatly appreciated. I have changed wiring and spark plugs. Thank you.

 

LOOK at the LTFTs! Ther PLUS 25% Thats MAXED out! And its still TOO LEAN! Look for low fuel pressure or a LARGE vacuum or intake tract air leak. This has little or nothing to do electrically. Looks like the data was taken at or near idle? What mods do you have? Status of the tune????

BC

 

The MIL light came on while waiting at a red light. Modifications are a Var-a-Ram, velocity stack and power duct. All from vararam. With the power duct the MAF is now mounted closer to the throttle body. Thank you for your help.

 

I would betcha a dollar that the MAF is either dirty or has failed. It can be cleaned with spray cans of either electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. I went through the same codes 3 years ago and after cleaning the MAF everything was happy again.

Make sure it's COMPLETELY dry(overnight) before re-installing it.

 

Thank you. I had cleaned the MAF with an electronic spray cleaner. It was supposed to evaporate in "seconds" so I did not let it dry overnight but was probably out 15 to 20 minutes prior to reinstall.

 

i guess it's time for me to step up to the plate....

I have a problem with the car starting. whenever I put the key to the on position, all clusters work fine. everything works properly, except the engine doesnt turn over at all!
i hear the fuel pump working, but thats about it. there arent any codes popping up at all.
would you by chance know what the problem is? It all started about 4-5 months ago, but it's become worse over time.

 

HI, everyone! I have a 2002 convertible C5 I am having a problem that only occures during the winter months. Every morning when I start the car it instantly reveves to about 25-2800 rpm's! And stays their for about 4 to 6 seconds I am afraid it is going to spin a bearing one of these days! So I am very likely going to simply stop driveing it in winter. I am also along with the high rpm's getting the check engine light on sometimes it will stay on other times it will flash and then the compuiter will solve the problem and shut off the code "p0300" for random misfire! As soon as winter leaves so does the problem that is until winter comes back. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh ya for anybody with cracks in their wheels I got my wheel replaced for free I simply called GM and threatened them with a class action lawsuit because it is a safty issue! They had me drive the car to the closest chevy dealer and they took a photo of the rim and I got a call from the dealer 4 days later telling me to come and get my free $800 wheel. It is amazing what you can accomplish with a simple lawsuit threat! My e-mail is rick.fierro@yahoo.com I have been haveing problems with this sight please e-mail if you have any ideas. Thanks

 

Bill, Thanks for the help...am guessing I need to remove a fair amount of 'plastic' to get at most of these??? From the interior??? Under hood was easy enough, but no cure yet for my 01 Roadster with ABS, Traction, power loss, rear tire sensor, right window issues...
thanks
terry


[/FONT]

 

The only grounds associated with the EBTCM and the DTCs & messages your seeing are G-101 and G-104/108

Most importantly is for you to read and post your DTCs Cleaning grounds is good but seldom helps this issue. Dont get me wrong. Grunds are important but, the EBTCM has NUMEROUS other components that cause DTC/issues and messages.

Read and post your DTCs.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!



Bill

 

Mr. Curlee, there doesn't seem to be a G108. Typo demon get you? You meant 7, correct?

 

HA!!!!!!!!!!!! 2001-2004,,,,G-104 is also designated G-108. If you read enough service manuals,,,it is commonaly refered to as G-104/108. Its just easier to reference that ground as G-104-108. Im not the Engineer, just the user.

I get the same complaints when I just refer to it as G-104. I had a 98 coupe prior to my 02 Z.

Bill

 

Hey Buddy Im running into gas guage problems some times it empty and some times its correct. What should I do? I have been using lucus gas treatment and it appears to be helping because its not happening as much.
Thanks ragtops

 

i have same prob..i use chevron techron..works good

 

Chevron Techron PLUS! Find it and use it in every other tank until you issue resolves its self. If you do 3-4 treatments and the problem still exists, you will need to remove the sending unit and manually clean the sensor OR replace it with a new one. Fortunately for you GM now sells just the sensor part.

 

wow! didn't know that! what's the part number?