Originally Posted by James2000

There's always a catch to having one of the coolest cars made. I will do my grounds as soon as the freezing weather passes. Thanks for the valuable info!

Originally Posted by schnellerkerl

Do what you want.
But you really need to find a place where you can clean them ASAP. They only get worse. And it will affect many components in your vehicle.

Originally Posted by James2000

It has been freezing and I don't garage my car. I wanna do the job right. With the freezing weather, I'll end up rushing and not doing the job as good as I can and possibly make things worse when my fingers are turning white and not moving. I am a perfectionist. Btw the plastic is 15 years old and extra brittle especially due to the cold if I break something I'm screwed. Did u use electric grease after u cleaned the grounds? My engine is spotless, but I know that probably doesn't matter, moisture has a way of finding its way anywhere/everywhere.

Originally Posted by James2000

U guys are right on with the corrosion issue. I had to go into the door jam today because my driver door controls went out. The plug was corroded, when I touched it the power came back on, so I cleaned it up. I will get to the grounds hopefully this week. Usually after a big snow storm we get some nice weather. I was telling someone else on here, my hands are half numb from a spine injury and mixed with the cold, doing things become difficult and I don't trust anyone to do the job like I would. Thanks!

Originally Posted by James2000

U guys are right on with the corrosion issue. I had to go into the door jam today because my driver door controls went out. The plug was corroded, when I touched it the power came back on, so I cleaned it up. I will get to the grounds hopefully this week. Usually after a big snow storm we get some nice weather. I was telling someone else on here, my hands are half numb from a spine injury and mixed with the cold, doing things become difficult and I don't trust anyone to do the job like I would. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Dutch'svette

Hey fellas got a little problem. On my '01 Vette C-5, when I cut the car off, and turn the lights off then drivers front turn signal/Park light continues to burn until it kills the battery. I replaced the bulb in the passenger side and it worked fine then it started again. At that point I ordered a new socket from Chevrolet and put a new bulb in it and it worked fine for about an hour then the passenger side light went out again and the driver side continued to burn. I just unhooked the battery to keep from killing it. Can anyone help??

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee

Cody

YES,,,,,,, Its the first steps in the correct direction. Make SURE that the people doing your key /tumbler work knows that they have to do the tumbler work around a KEY with the proper RESISTANCE of your old key.

The key resistor pellet reader is on the end of the lock tumbler and that is most likely your issue. HOWEVER,,,,,,, anywhere in the PassKey circuit there could be an issue.

One way to prove out the bad key reader theory is to insert the key into the tumbler and read the resistance of the key at the connector end of the key reader connector. Compare the actual pellet resistance reading in the key with the reading you get at the connector of the key reader..

They should MATCH!!

Bill

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee

YES! Just use an OHM Meter and put the leads on the two little metal contacts on either side of the key. That will give you the resistance of the chip inside the key.

Once you know that value, you can read it on the connector for the sensor and at the connector at the BCM to verify that you have proper continuity all the way through the circuit.

Here is the C5 GM key resistance chart. Your reading should fall within one of those values:

Originally Posted by 65ELCMO

Thanks, I will check it out today. Steve

Originally Posted by Aaron97C5

I have a 97 C5 that I've been having problems with the security system. If the remote is within a certain radius the car will lock/unlock itself. I replaced the car battery, as well as the batteries in the remotes.

Originally Posted by Aaron97C5

I have a 97 C5 that I've been having problems with the security system. If the remote is within a certain radius the car will lock/unlock itself. I replaced the car battery, as well as the batteries in the remotes.

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee

Many of you have asked me for help on solving electrical problems and I thought this would be VERY interesting!

My 98 coupe would get the infamous "REDUCED ENGINE POWER", "TRACTION CONTROL FAILURE" and a host of random failure codes. After many, many hours of troubleshooting, replacing the BCM and TAC module, I solved most of the driveability issues. Still getting the random DTC failure codes, I thought that I may be having ground issues. Back in June I cleaned ALL of the chassis grounds and the car virtually stopped throwing the "RANDOM" DTC failure codes. Just moving the wires in the chassis ground connector was enough to change the indications and make the issues stop happening.

I had a chance to speak with some GM C5 Trouble Desk Engineers when I went to Bowling Green KY in April and they pointed out that MANY of the C5 electrical issues can be directly linked to chassis ground problems. The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
I strongly recommend that any C5 owner that has had or who are having electrical issues, examine and clean the chassis ground connectors. This may save you from needlessly replacing expensive electronics modules. Each ground connector can be disassembled and cleaned in about 20 min.

Just cleaning the metal ground connection between the chassis and the plug is only a band aid solution. Now that I look back, when I cleaned my chassis grounds and initially solved my issues, I believe that when the connector is being removed to clean the connection between chassis and the connector, just the wires being moved inside the plug is what changed the indications and made everything work better.
Disassembly of the chassis ground plug and cleaning the contacts inside the connector is the correct method of solving the issue!

I took some pictures of the under hood chassis ground connector and the corrosion that was in it. I cleaned the two connections on the frame rails and the left one was significantly corroded! Taking it apart and cleaning it is a very straight forward procedure and I believe that if you follow this recommendation, you will be on the way to solving the many of the electrical issues.

Here are some detailed pictures of the ground connector and the corrosion that was found inside it!

Picture of under hood Chassis Ground connector G-101



Corrosion inside connector! (You ain't seen nothing yet!)
[IMG][/IMG]

Next three photos are of the corrosion found on the connector terminals!
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]


Self tapping ground screw and star washer. This is what you will need if the ground stud breaks off during removal!
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][IMG]

Here are where the chassis ground points are on a C5:









PLEASE let me know if you have any questions.

Bill Curlee

updated 02 March 06

Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0

Bill,
Where can I get some of the electrical contact cleaner like you used that will not damage the electrical connectors and wire?

Terry Hawkins