IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Crank both light assemblies up and down manually and see if you can feel any grinding or roughness. It takes quite a few turns of the **** but that may shed some light.
You can also take the little cover off the motor assembly and check the condition of the gears and rubber cushions inside the gears.
If the lights are grinding, it's more than likley a mechanical problem inside the motor assembly.
If your lights were going shut and then poping back open I would refer you to a TSB on shimming the motor and replacing a bumper that actuates a switch.
BC
You can also take the little cover off the motor assembly and check the condition of the gears and rubber cushions inside the gears.
If the lights are grinding, it's more than likley a mechanical problem inside the motor assembly.
If your lights were going shut and then poping back open I would refer you to a TSB on shimming the motor and replacing a bumper that actuates a switch.
BC
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Crank both light assemblies up and down manually and see if you can feel any grinding or roughness. It takes quite a few turns of the **** but that may shed some light.
You can also take the little cover off the motor assembly and check the condition of the gears and rubber cushions inside the gears.
If the lights are grinding, it's more than likley a mechanical problem inside the motor assembly.
If your lights were going shut and then poping back open I would refer you to a TSB on shimming the motor and replacing a bumper that actuates a switch.
BC
You can also take the little cover off the motor assembly and check the condition of the gears and rubber cushions inside the gears.
If the lights are grinding, it's more than likley a mechanical problem inside the motor assembly.
If your lights were going shut and then poping back open I would refer you to a TSB on shimming the motor and replacing a bumper that actuates a switch.
BC
Where is the switch located?
Mark
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Terry
Try a local electrical/electronics store. Radio Shack may even sell some but it will most likley be in an airsol can. Even if it says that it will not harm plastic, test it first. The GM plastic connector is is very high quality plastic but it's better to be safe than sorrry.
BC
Try a local electrical/electronics store. Radio Shack may even sell some but it will most likley be in an airsol can. Even if it says that it will not harm plastic, test it first. The GM plastic connector is is very high quality plastic but it's better to be safe than sorrry.
BC
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Checked the book and there is no switch. There are plastic bumpers on the assembly that sometimes need to be replaced on the "LEFT" light assembly only. I do mot believe that to be the problem on yours.
The open and closing of the light assemblies is controlled by an electronic module that is located under the right head light assembly on the bumper bulkhead.
I will try to find a copy of the TSB and send it to you,
BC
The open and closing of the light assemblies is controlled by an electronic module that is located under the right head light assembly on the bumper bulkhead.
I will try to find a copy of the TSB and send it to you,
BC
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OWESOME POST!!!Thanks for the INFO...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,275
Likes: 19
From: Camden County NJ
I had the random message issues a few months back. I'll have to look into this. The dealership said it was do to a bad ground in my after market stereo speaker wires. I think the were half right about it being a grounding issue, it has happened once since they re-grounded the speaker wire. Great Info!! 
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 504
From: Hilton NY
I was going to buy some Electron cleaner from their website but the description says that it leaves a dielectric coating where the ECC doesn't. Is there a reason you used the Electron cleaner over the ECC?
Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 728
Likes: 4
From: knoxville tn
thanks a bunch. very timely also. on sunday started car (98 roadster, 37k miles) and very rough idle and got dic mesage about traction control, reduced power, etc and a rich fuel odor. turned off car, restarted a few minutes later, ran fine but check engine light was on. a couple of hours later everything was great, no problems went for a 50 mile ride a- ok. next day everything fine. it would appear to be intermittent ground problem. hopefully thats all it is. will check it out. thanks again
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Good job Bill. Man that's some nasty looking corrosion you showed there. Plugging those connector housings up with some silicone comes to mind to me too. Anything to keep moisture out. 
I spent a little time in New London so I'm familiar with Gales Ferry. I don't blame you one bit for not driving in the winter there.
Robert
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Myyyy, what big hands you have grandma!!
Seriously, thanks for the info Bill. As for your fuel sender(s) issue, I have the same damned thing. Actually, my fuel gauge will read no higher than 1/2 tank even after re-fueling. Guess maybe 1 of the sensors is acting up?
I heard there's a product named BG44K that's supposed to be very helpful in removing deposits on the senders. Haven't tried it yet, but if the local chebby dealer is selling it (~$20.00/can) I will be giving it a shot.
Keep us posted if you get the fuel gauge issues licked too!!
Seriously, thanks for the info Bill. As for your fuel sender(s) issue, I have the same damned thing. Actually, my fuel gauge will read no higher than 1/2 tank even after re-fueling. Guess maybe 1 of the sensors is acting up?
I heard there's a product named BG44K that's supposed to be very helpful in removing deposits on the senders. Haven't tried it yet, but if the local chebby dealer is selling it (~$20.00/can) I will be giving it a shot.
Keep us posted if you get the fuel gauge issues licked too!!
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Some members have asked me to bring this back out of archives. So here it is! C5'ers are starting to see corrosion issues on electrical componets more and more! Hope this helps. Please let me know if I can further explain this issue to anyone!
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
They are in the engine compartment on the top of the left and right frame rails just behind the head light assemblies. There are pictures of them in the post that will allow you to be sure that you have the correct plugs. Make sure that you soak the studs with penetrating oil so that they do not ring off when you try to losten the retaining nut. They are very close to the area where the hood struts meet the frame!
There are two small plastic clips on the front of the plug. You can pry up on the small plastic clip, seperate the plastic retainer from the plug and pull the front of the plug out! If there is corrosion it will be VERY apparent!
BC
There are two small plastic clips on the front of the plug. You can pry up on the small plastic clip, seperate the plastic retainer from the plug and pull the front of the plug out! If there is corrosion it will be VERY apparent!
BC
