I have had a periodic noise coming from my doors that sounds like a relay clicking inside the door.

I will have to check my ground connectors, but has anyone else experienced this sound?

I posted before and someone said it was a wire inside the door that needs to be zip tied, but it doesn't happen over bumps, it will happen any time.

 

Recommend removing the inside door cover and try to figure out what componet the noise is coming from. There are several things that could be making noise. It could be the door lock/unlock solonoid. the window motor, the door control module it self or maybe even the stereo speaker.

Use a long screwdriver and place the blade of the screwdriver on the body of a door componet. Put your ear on the screwdriver handle. If there is a noise coming from that componet, you will hear it through the screwdriver handle. Go from electronic item to electromic item wutil you find out what is making the noise.

BC

 

Great info Bill Its nice to see someone else with dirty fingernails for a change

 

TTT More and more people are starting to have ground issues. Keeping the post going.

BC

 

hello everyone, im an electrical contractor. we deal with corrision issues all the time, especially since i live at the jersey shore. we are required by the NEC and local inspectors to use a corrision inhibitor on our outdoor and panel connections. you can buy it at home depot/ lowes/ or any electrical supply house. the brand we use is called nolox, iit is somewhat greasy. it comes in a jar with an applicator lid(small brush). just wipe the conductors with it, crimp/wirenut or just reattach to the grounding screw. it works great,good luck george

 

Great idea George, is that the same stuff they require you to put on the outside lines coming into the breaker panel?

 

yes its the same stuff, goes by a couple of brand names, we use nolox

 

Some people have had problems with battery grounds and problems with FOB's. Here is a picture of the chassis ground for the FOB receiver circuit that you need to check. It is G-104 and it is on the passengers frame rail, just outboard of the battery. It is an "EYELET type of ground. It will be under one of the plastic tabs for the battery souround. It is also the circuit that provides battery ground to the chassis for ALL the other circuits!




Make sure that you clean the threads on the stud and use lots of PB Blaster or WD-40.


BC

 

Excellent post Bill. Thanks for sharing this valuable information. I would like to add a note, with no intention of hijacking your post.

By looking at some of your pictures, it appears there were a couple different types of corrosion you had within the electrical connector. These different types of corrosion is caused by different issues. It's not always a water problem.

Without getting too technical, it appears some of the corrosion in this connector may well have been caused by a "loose" connection within the individual "pins" and "sockets" within the electrical connector.

We sometimes see this type of problem in the aerospace industry and just like on our cars, it is often difficult to troubleshoot. However, the electrical connectors and the contacts (pins and sockets) used in aerospace applications are much, much higher quality.

Nevertheless, I would like to suggest that owners do a "grip check" to see how tight the individual pin/socket relationship is within each set of contacts in the connector. I suppose one would need to somehow obtain at least 1 pin and one socket of each size to do this check. The contacts should mate firmly and not "wiggle" when mated. Okay, I know what some of you are thinking here but lets keep it clean......

Finally, if a loose connection is found, the associated contacts would need to be replaced within the connector. The applicable connector contact removal and insertion tool and appropriate crimping tool would most likely be needed to do this repair correctly. However, I have no idea how to obtain them.

 

thanks Bill for that great post.
I just had a question. I noticed this point on my car also, however its in a slightly different location. its in the hole through the plastic opening on that "tab" next to the battery. It look like a very small/weak ground, and had me concerned as i had crazy electrical problems when i added an amp and subwoofer to my stock bose stereo.

pic:



is this just a difference on early model C5s? (mine is a 1997)

here is mine... :



thanks,


red

 

Mine was configured the same as yours but I pulled the shroud up and moved it to show someone the connection. You are correct. It is a poor ground and increasing the size of the wire that connects the battery ground to the frame would help out a lot!!

TRISTAR

You were correct also! Loose connections and moisture caused that problem. It is very difficult to tell if the pins in that connector are loose. Someone else recommended a corrosion inhibitor and I recommend that also.

The advice straight out of the mouths of the GM Tech Reps " Cut the connectors off and put all of the ground wires in an "EYELET" type of connector, solder it and ground that to the frame!" No more chassis ground problems.

BC

 

Here is a TTT for all of you new C5 owners that have cars with weird electrical issues.

Bill C

 

I seem to be answering 3-4 electrical problems every day. This post may help you solve some of your weird problems.

Bill

 

I replaced the rack on my 98 with a rack on a 04 and I'm getting the warm up code after 18 mph was wondering if magnasteer 2 is different than magnasteer 1 and if theres a way to tell

 

It's been over a month, time for a TTT

 

Recently had the same problem with my 01 coupe. The fuel level would drop to empty when I reached approximately 5/8 of a tank. I first removed fuel level sender on drivers side. After of course I made sure I had less than 1 gal left in tank. Jack up per an oil change procedure. Remove rear left tire to give easy access. Remove tank shield. I put oil pan under to catch any remaining fuel. Then I slowly removed bolts that hold unit in tank. Once I was sure all fuel was empty I then removed send unit and gasket. Be careful not to damage rubber gasket. I then backed out unit at a 45 degree angle and removed from system. I then cleaned the potentiometer with a Q-tip and a little alcohol. I then took tweezers and slightly bent contact points in, till I got a nice reading on Ohm's meter, with no bad readings. I also cleaned the points with 600 sandpaper (very lightly to get a new surface). Re-installed, then duplicated procedure on passenger side. Works GREAT!!! and I guess I saved $700. Guess I'll buy a new exhaust system.
What's a good one? any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

I get random errors--check break system-- service traction control -- service engine soon-- they come and go. Also found a wire coming from the end of the front parking lamp harness that goes no where and has no lug,looks like it was broken. All lamp wires are there and are working correctly today. I have intermittantly had the front parking lamps come on when engine is started and go off when you turn them on. Sometimes they work correctly.This is on a 2001 Z06 I know the front was wrecked and the bumper was replaced. I will check all grounds that i can find. Could someone tell me where the extra wire in the harness goes. Is it a ground wire?

 

Prescibed Reading

 

thanks for the great info!

I just purchased a 02 convertible and I am having some really strange electrical problems too. First, the door locks seem to have a mind of their own. In the car, I can hit the lock, and only the passenger door will lock. I manually lock the driver door, hit unlock, and the driver door is the only one that unlocks. Do you think by cleaning the grounds this could be helped too ?

Also, outside the car, I hit lock, the lights flash, horn honks, and it sounds like the doors locked. Driver door locks, but when you try passenger door, it opens right up, horn sounds etc. Plus, when you hit unlock, the driver side door stays locked... very weird

Thanks!

 

Helo All,

We in the Aerospcae Industry use a product called ACF 50.

1/ All Metallic Aircraft Corrode.

It is the nature of refined metals to return to their most stable form that of a metallic oxide. the rate at which metals corrode depends upon the environment they receive. Metals exposed to marine atmospheres, moisture, and tropical temperatures have the highest rates of corrosion.

2/ ACF-50 Kills Corrosion On Contact.

ACF-50 is a state-of-the-art anti-corrosion/lubricating compound that has been specially designed for aviation and aerospace use. It is a clean, clear, non-toxic, ultra-then fluid compound which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect metal surfaces. With a dielectric rating of nearly 40KV, ACF-50 will kill corrosion cells on contact and completely remove the moisture from the metal surface. It actively penetrates into seams, lap joints and beneath rivet heads, expelling moisture and even saltwater. In addition, it can be used on all types of plastics, paints and seals without fear of damage.

3/ One Treatment Protects For 24 Months.

No matter how hot, cold, humid, or salt-laden your atmosphere is, ACF-50 will perform. It will remain effective for approximately two years. Exactly how long an ACF-50 treat will last depends upon how corrosive your aircraft’s environment is, how often you fly, and whether or not your aircraft is hangared.

4/ ACF-50 Meets the Navy’s Requirements for 81309E Type ll and Type lll.

What does this double rating mean? It means that ACF-50 is not restricted to airframe application. It is approved for use on airframes plus [B]electrical and avionics systems.

Here is a good link for review http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html

Kevin