My 99 C5 got hit by a woman in a Honda Fit 5 years ago. good thing I had a Papago dash cam, i got 20 grand.I had just rebuilt a LS1 with $ from an insurance settlement after I hydro locked by driving into a lake in the middle of the highway at 4:30 or so in the AAM as it was raining dogs and cats. I put 243 heads, LS6 intake, ARP, cam, block is blueprinted to 700hp etc.

I have0 JUST got it running again, (had to weld on new bumper support. unbend one of the frame rails, and a lot more) and it's running great. The last tune was for Cal smog ( I had to install a stock profile cam, still wont pass because its not stock,not a problem now, moving to Oregon) but it dyno'd around 400 whp and tq) and I had just went on a 15 mi, high speed shakedown run and it was running great. I am still fixing the hood and it was night and all of a sudden it stars raining and my engine is uncovered. I run out there and it's soaked and I cover it up and uncover it to dry for the next 2 days. .

I haven't pulled the codes yet but I had to say when I first got the car I thought those engine grounds were FUNKY, and I bet $ that is what is wrong right now. I cleaned them one of the 1st things when I bought the car and there was corrosion. I have cleaned the engine bay a couple of time since I got the bodywork finished and I will bet a nice fresh crop of corrosion has sprung up in the connectors. They will be history, regardless, in a couple of hrs., I will update.

P.S. ...i bought the car for 14k running perfect, w/115 k and oil was nice and clear. I have got almost $32k back. The benefits of full coverage at the right time! I had 145k on it when i got hit.

 

check your battery, make sure you have 12.5 volts or more!

 

Thanks. Makes a lot of sense. Going to look at mine at the same time I change my BCM. Hoping that will do it. Cheers!

 

C5 radio adapter needs a switched (power on w/key) power source the factory wiring doesn't allow for. This is fairly easy to find and use

 

Here's how I fixed my GM10-AUX drain. I clipped the brown (constant power) wire and tapped into the accessory wire (yellow) in the passenger footwell. (I attached a pdf with a picture of its location) That solved the biggest drain. I still had something drawing about 60 milliamps, so I continued diagnostics. Turned out to be the USB port that I had installed next to the ash tray to replace the old nasty lighter socket. I re-wired that into the switched power wire that I used for the GM10-AUX device. NOW I'm down to a comfortable 20 milliamp draw. (I should have known that the USB was a problem, but I never thought that it would draw 60 milliamps with nothing in it. Ya learn something every day!)
Here's the 'hungry' USB port!

 

Thank you very much ... I'll check this tomorrow raining today don't have a garage live in apartment...

 

Have done hours of reading on here, and I'm trying my hardest to diagnose with my limited electrical knowledge. Any help/clarification you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated!

Here are my readings after getting a nicer multimeter than the Harbor Freight one I had previously

Car On, Accessories Off:
Bat (+) to GND: 13.94V
Alt (+) to GND: 14.27V

Car On, Accessories On (radio, AC, headlights, no fan):
Bat (+) to GND: 14.34V
Alt (+) to GND: 14.43V
Bat (+) to Bat (-): 14.34V

Car Off:
Bat (+) to GND: 12.30V
Alt (+) to GND: 12.30V
Bat (+) to Bat (-): 12.30V​​

​​MIN voltage during crank sequence: 9.77V (seems low?)

Parasitic Current Draw Test:
Started at 0.52A (which is weird because @Bill Curlee said it should be around 8A)
Ended after ~15-20 mins settled at 0.013A (13 milliamps)

Alternator tests:
Removed large red wire from back of alternator (car off) and tested amperage between wire and 13mm terminal on alternator: 0.04mA
Removed connector from top of alternator and tested amperage between 3rd pin from left (red wire) and same terminal on alt as above: 2.73A (seems high but I'm not sure if I was doing this correctly as I had a hard time understanding Bill's directions on this one)


I recently replaced the voltage regulator on the OEM alternator myself, as I was getting "high voltage" errors. I haven't gotten one since, but I also don't have many miles on the car since installing the regulator.

Also, I recently brought my battery into the auto store and they stated my CCA were low. They did a full charge on it, and said it was fine. However, after a few times of driving it (and putting it on my battery tender), I'm having issues again. The battery is ~1 yr old NAPA Legend 75 month.

Any thoughts on what my issues might be? Any other testing I can/should do (and very specific instructions on how)? I'm very thankful for this site and those of you (especially Bill) who are so caring and helpful with these gremlins!

 

Please post this in the Tech section for more visibility !!…so this is a “crank no start” or a no crank…you are better off explaining the symptoms you have than these voltmeter readings.

 

SEARCH SUBJECT: Blinking DRL's....Blinking Harzards, Blinking Turn Signals, Blinking Dash lights, #40 & 38 Relay, b2578 b2583 Code H & C, Multi-Function Switch

Hello Everyone,

I have been reading this long thread for weeks trying to solve this subject line issue. Many have posted on this, but very few have followed up on real solution that was confirmed to be solved. WELL!!!...this weekend I finally solved what looks to have plagued many on this forum. So I thought I would share the trouble shooting in hopes to help others too. This thread really helped to solve my issue by process of elimination. Sooooo here we go:

1. Symptoms: All the above listed in the search subject that out of nowhere happened last week
2. Replaced Hazard Switch. No Luck!!
3. Replaced #38 & 40 Relay. No Luck!!
4. Replaced Mulit-Function Switch. No Luck!!
5. Cleaned all 13 ground points...No luck!!...but was still an overall good thing for the health of the electrical system
6. Once I got to this stage of replacement efforts, and still no luck of success...I knew that there was only a few more components to address so...I started isolating the DRL's short from Code b2578 and b2583 H&C
7. So I cut free the DRL/Turn signal light socket first on the driver side only..then tried the driver turn signal....everyone thing worked perfectly on the driver side only....with the passenger side still wired to original socket, it still flashes and blinked as the subject line describes....so I knew I was on the final fix path.....then cut the left passenger side and all systems worked perfectly!!!...no issues at all!!
8. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!! HELLLLL YEAH!!...the DRL/Turn signal socket, which on my car looked perfect!!...as my C5 is always garaged with low miles..so the sockets did not "appear" to have any issues when I first inspected....but as it turns out that was the short on both sides causing all these unbelievable weird issues! Easy part fix and even AutoZone sales them in stock because this issue is so common for many chevy's of these years
9, RECOMMENDATIONS: Outside of spending couple hundred dollars on new replacement parts...which again given the age of my car would have failed eventually anyway....check the sockets first and then go from there

I HOPE THIS HELPS!... as I wanted to give back after so many members before me posted thoughts over the last 10 plus years!!....LOL...Thank you!!

 

Most excellent post. What is your trade if you don't mind me asking?

 

I'm new here so I'm not sure if this is the best place to start but I'll give it a try.

I have a 1998 C5 Vert that is giving me the traction control / abs warning. The car has 43,000 on it, sat for ± 6 years, the code is C1232, no others, what is odd to me is that I can drive the car for an indefinite time under 35 MPH and then as soon as I go over 35 the warning pops up, I have skid tested and the ABS appears to be working even though the light is on. If I shutdown and restart the code is cleared and I get code H1232. What I've done so far is clean up the mess from a leaking battery, cleaned the wiring harness and checked all of the connectors on the computers, there was no corrosion to any of the wiring or connectors. I replaced the connector harness to the left front wheel speed sensor, cleaned all of the grounds on the chassis, disassembled the ground packs and cleaned them. I tested the voltage coming from the wheel speed sensor, it appears to be in normal range. Other than this issue this car is very clean, I'm hoping it's not the ebcm! What would you check next, any help is appreciated.

Mike

 

Hope this helps.

https://tmodcustoms.com/products/cha...ound-block-kit

 

NICE. But you need to fix up your webpage.
"Each kit includes one billet aluminum block ..." Somehow that does not jive with the rest of the text.

 

Great info thx for info

 

I can't find the grounding points on the drivers and passenger side footwell areas. Anybody got any photos of those?

 

Pictured is left side...right side similar !!

 

Just wanted to drop in and thank Bill for starting this thread as well as all the other contributors as I've referenced it dozens of times since acquiring a C5.

Also wanted to add that I think the ground splice packs are the most ridiculously lame bit of engineering I've seen out of GM. Yesterday I finally worked up the nerve and broke the badly rusted stud off and replaced the one next to the EBTCM with a soldered ring terminal. Thinking the best fix for these is do the same with all the other exterior ones. I have to wonder what kind of engineer thought it would be wise to put terminals that are critical for the operation of the vehicle in a connector with absolutely zero weatherproofing? Every part of the one I pulled apart had green on it.

 

If you do the rest of your connectors could you post a few pictures of what you find?
They are likely horrific, but a picture is worth 1,000 words.

 

Got links to parts?

 

I use a regular crimp ring terminal for 10-12 ga wire (yellow) that will accomodate about four to six grounds depending on wire gauges. Remove the plastic insulator, crimp to the grounds wires, then solder. Then cover it up with a piece of marine shrink tube - obviously need to put that on the ground wires before the ring terminal. The shrink tube will act as a strain relief and keep any bare copper from being exposed to the elements.

I didn't take an "after" pic, but will try to post one up today.