When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My '98 has been sitting for 18 months on a trickle charger but the battery was still dead. I connected a charger and put it on start mode. The solenoid clicked and then all lights etc. went out. Any thoughts on whether I fried the electrical system or not?
My '98 has been sitting for 18 months on a trickle charger but the battery was still dead. I connected a charger and put it on start mode. The solenoid clicked and then all lights etc. went out. Any thoughts on whether I fried the electrical system or not?
Charlie
Just get a NEW BATTERY, install it and see what you have. Most likely no issue but ya never know.
Just get a NEW BATTERY, install it and see what you have. Most likely no issue but ya never know.
BC
I'll do so tomorrow. I had two major surgeries on my right shoulder in six months, the first in January 16 and am only now able to drive and shift the six speed. I have missed driving my toy SO much.
And a tip of the hat to Bill Curlee. I'll never have a command of the English language adequate to express my admiration and thanks for all Bill Curlee has done for the Corvette community in general and Corvette Forum in particular.
Newb here SO glad I took a look at this thread. LOTS of good info. Have been having random issues, the grounds are definitely going to be what I check out over the next couple days. Latest issue has been the running lean codes, but also all of a sudden the passenger side DRL is VERY dim, driver side is fine. AND the passenger side headlight does not raise up, the light is ON but no-one home. It was fine one day....gone the next and I rarely even drive it at night. Cant even hear the motor spin for it. BUT the corner light works fine, blinker etc, if I turn the light on.
I spent the weekend finally going through and cleaning grounds. I’ve had a few persistent electrical issues with my stereo and bcm. Anyway I had a particularly hard time with G202, I broke the stud loose while trying to remove it. Bill’s comment regarding a GM tech who recommended cutting off the connector packs in favor of a terminal lug seemed reasonable so I cut the whole thing off, cleaned and organized the wires, drilled and tapped holes on another local metal surface and it seems to be working just fine. I did the same thing to G201 after as it looked like the previous owner hacked it up and I found a fried ground in there I had to cut back. Anyway, hope this helps someone who may have an issue getting G201 and G202 off, I can confirm this sufficiently worked for me
Electrical issue and looking for any tips. Owned the car (99 FRC) just a few months and previous owner garaged it, I do not. I have a water leak that drips onto my foot on the dead pedal that I can only assume is coming from the windshield. In this leak just starting, the windshield wipers will sometimes operate at the low speed when switched off, and will increase speed with switch selection. Or, they just don't swipe, yet do not "lay down" into the holders as if they are off. Any tips or known issues with this? TIA.
Last edited by Jacob Dobbs; Nov 20, 2017 at 02:02 PM.
I spent the weekend finally going through and cleaning grounds. I’ve had a few persistent electrical issues with my stereo and bcm. Anyway I had a particularly hard time with G202, I broke the stud loose while trying to remove it. Bill’s comment regarding a GM tech who recommended cutting off the connector packs in favor of a terminal lug seemed reasonable so I cut the whole thing off, cleaned and organized the wires, drilled and tapped holes on another local metal surface and it seems to be working just fine. I did the same thing to G201 after as it looked like the previous owner hacked it up and I found a fried ground in there I had to cut back. Anyway, hope this helps someone who may have an issue getting G201 and G202 off, I can confirm this sufficiently worked for me
Nice job. Particularly the multiple holes, and that you went beyond just a self-tapping screw/bolt. Only thing I may have done different is to get copper ring connectors.
Thanks for posting all those pictures as well.
Electrical issue and looking for any tips. Owned the car (99 FRC) just a few months and previous owner garaged it, I do not. I have a water leak that drips onto my foot on the dead pedal that I can only assume is coming from the windshield. In this leak just starting, the windshield wipers will sometimes operate at the low speed when switched off, and will increase speed with switch selection. Or, they just don't swipe, yet do not "lay down" into the holders as if they are off. Any tips or known issues with this? TIA.
You should start your OWN THREAD but,,, Your drain udders are CLOGGED!!! It will soon destroy the wiper computer/motor!!
The live under the wiper motor module on the drivers side windshield cowl well.
You can reach in and pop them out of the cowl well and clean them out:
If there is enough water in the well, the water can leak into the cab through the wiring harness groment for the wiper motor/module in the well.
There have been a couple of cases where the body seam sealant seperated and allowed water in. I would pull the cowl cover and inspect that well and all that is in there that keeps the water OUT..
Electrical issue and looking for any tips. Owned the car (99 FRC) just a few months and previous owner garaged it, I do not. I have a water leak that drips onto my foot on the dead pedal that I can only assume is coming from the windshield. In this leak just starting, the windshield wipers will sometimes operate at the low speed when switched off, and will increase speed with switch selection. Or, they just don't swipe, yet do not "lay down" into the holders as if they are off. Any tips or known issues with this? TIA.
lol @ bill, welcome to the forum. I discovered leaks the day after I got my c5 similar to yours. My advice: sit in the car while someone hoses around the windows and doors and see if you can observe where it’s coming from. Check for leaks along the weather strip that seals drivers side inner window glass surface along the A & B pillars-- water flows down from there into the footwell area or back behind the seat. You will find evidence of water trails when you get your head down in there and really look & feel around where water is collecting. There are several great threads here on solving water leaks look for the one guy with a torch red z06 and lots of pix, some can be fixed with little more than your time, goo gone, a blow dryer and some adhesive sealant. Good luck!! This forum can be difficult to quickly find the info we need-- the best we can do is keep threads and forums organized for ease of reference. Chances are though the info you are looking for is in here somewhere-- and if you find that it's not then start a thread and post some pics!
Last edited by StancyPants; Nov 21, 2017 at 06:08 PM.
Nice job. Particularly the multiple holes, and that you went beyond just a self-tapping screw/bolt. Only thing I may have done different is to get copper ring connectors.
Thanks for posting all those pictures as well.
Thanks-- I'm proud of it. I had to make due with what I had in stock. It's my only car and I had already taken two Lyfts to replace hardware that I dropped under the battery tray replacing G104... and the auto parts store had nothing that would work either not even a weather pack connector that I could modify to function like the OEM ground packs
Anyway, I would have loved to use copper terminal lugs.. I may go back in there and cover the area with a silicone adhesive/sealant or dielectric to protect against corrosion because my car gets humid inside during the winter, the next few months will a good test of these grounds
Last edited by StancyPants; Nov 21, 2017 at 06:09 PM.
When these cowling drains (udders) become stopped up they will flood the wiper electronics making the wipers either not work or work erratically. They can also cause water to come in the cabin
Originally Posted by Jacob Dobbs
Electrical issue and looking for any tips. Owned the car (99 FRC) just a few months and previous owner garaged it, I do not. I have a water leak that drips onto my foot on the dead pedal that I can only assume is coming from the windshield. In this leak just starting, the windshield wipers will sometimes operate at the low speed when switched off, and will increase speed with switch selection. Or, they just don't swipe, yet do not "lay down" into the holders as if they are off. Any tips or known issues with this? TIA.
That makes the LEAK path isoltion X10 more difficult. Pull out the seat, carprt and plastic trim around the doors and get out that HOSE!! Pack a lunch and get in the car. Have someone start LOW and work the water flow UP.. Give the water time to flow where it needs to to get in before the hose guy move the flow UP.
You will soon fine the leak path. I PRAY it isnt the roof gutter/windshield/roof joint seal. What a pain in the *** to fix/ reseal!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 21, 2017 at 10:56 PM.
When these cowling drains (udders) become stopped up they will flood the wiper electronics making the wipers either not work or work erratically. They can also cause water to come in the cabin
Well it finally happened to me.
Got the service ABS, traction control etc warnings last night.
I was stopped in my driveway at night, lights on, heater on, and brake lights on as my wife was getting out to get the mail.
Bingo, all the warnings started to flash.
Drove up the driveway and put it in for the night.k Checked the forum for an answer before going to bed.
I figured I was looking at spending the day checking/cleaning all the grounds for my problem. But I remembered the post about starting with the battery.
I had replaced the battery several months ago so all should be good. I checked the connections and even they were tight I still could slightly move both the pos and neg wires. I got out the 8mm wrench and really torqued them down.
Started the car and wala! No more warnings. Now to clear the codes.
Thanks to this forum and Bill Curlee all is right in my C5 world.
Well it finally happened to me.
Got the service ABS, traction control etc warnings last night.
I was stopped in my driveway at night, lights on, heater on, and brake lights on as my wife was getting out to get the mail.
Bingo, all the warnings started to flash.
Drove up the driveway and put it in for the night.k Checked the forum for an answer before going to bed.
I figured I was looking at spending the day checking/cleaning all the grounds for my problem. But I remembered the post about starting with the battery.
I had replaced the battery several months ago so all should be good. I checked the connections and even they were tight I still could slightly move both the pos and neg wires. I got out the 8mm wrench and really torqued them down.
Started the car and wala! No more warnings. Now to clear the codes.
Thanks to this forum and Bill Curlee all is right in my C5 world.
When ever you have a whacked out IPC and other interior module functions are affected, the most likely cause is a CORRUPTED SERIAL DATA BUSS.
There are several things that can cause that BUT, most of the time its caused by a crappy connection inside the Left and or Right Door Control Module door harness power connector (located inside the door A pillar hole into the body) OR a bad connection in the SEAT ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR.
The other mode of crazyness is a wet or damp BCM. If it gets wet, it cause MAYHEM.
Thanks for the reminder Bill. I remember reading about the door connector somewhere in the last 90+ pages of this thread.
My driver door does not always respond with the fob to unlock so that connector is next on my list to inspect.
I may have screwed the pooch
and the auto parts store had nothing that would work either not even a weather pack connector that I could modify to function like the OEM ground packs
You have a ZO6.. 
Pack a lunch and get in the car. Have someone start LOW and work the water flow UP.. Give the water time to flow where it needs to to get in before the hose guy move the flow UP.
