IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Any switch, relay or electrical contact will ARC when the contact closes. The more current that the circuit flows, the more the arc.
Part of the issue is the contacts only touch in a very small contact point.
If you bend the contact arm slightly to allow it to seat with more pressure and use some wet and dry paper to sand the contact points to make a bigger contact patch (make sure that you polish them very smooth) the switch will last a little longer before it arcs it self to the point that it limits current and voltage.
ALWAYS test the switch with an OHM METER to insure that there is NO contact (Infinite Ohms) when the switch is OFF and ZERO OHMS when the contacts are closed. If you see resistance when the contacts are closed, either you left dirt between the contacts or the contacts are poorly aligned or adjusted.
Bill
Part of the issue is the contacts only touch in a very small contact point.
If you bend the contact arm slightly to allow it to seat with more pressure and use some wet and dry paper to sand the contact points to make a bigger contact patch (make sure that you polish them very smooth) the switch will last a little longer before it arcs it self to the point that it limits current and voltage.
ALWAYS test the switch with an OHM METER to insure that there is NO contact (Infinite Ohms) when the switch is OFF and ZERO OHMS when the contacts are closed. If you see resistance when the contacts are closed, either you left dirt between the contacts or the contacts are poorly aligned or adjusted.
Bill
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 99
Likes: 10
Error code B2262
Greetings from the UK. Yes we have C5's here..
Bill, I am getting a B2262 code from the LDCM.
It says historic but I believe these to be current from these modules.. anyway it wont go away and the mirror wont adjust horizontally when using the memory feature. Everything else fine memory wise, seat position, radio, AC and all ok on the passenger side..
Any ideas, bad earth, wiring, parts fault. I think this is a rare one!!
Its a 2001 Z06 by the way..
Great thread by the way and as always the guys on here are real helpful!
Bill, I am getting a B2262 code from the LDCM.
It says historic but I believe these to be current from these modules.. anyway it wont go away and the mirror wont adjust horizontally when using the memory feature. Everything else fine memory wise, seat position, radio, AC and all ok on the passenger side..
Any ideas, bad earth, wiring, parts fault. I think this is a rare one!!
Its a 2001 Z06 by the way..
Great thread by the way and as always the guys on here are real helpful!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
I have something in my '03 Z06 that just keeps killing batteries after a couple of weeks.
The reason why I haven't chased it down is because I'm lazy and because I just hate dealing with electrical stuff (got zapped before as a kid). Took me a couple of hours to convert my dryer from a 3 plug to a 4 plug.
The reason why I haven't chased it down is because I'm lazy and because I just hate dealing with electrical stuff (got zapped before as a kid). Took me a couple of hours to convert my dryer from a 3 plug to a 4 plug.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Well,, its most likely not going to fix its self.. I have seldom seen 12 VDC shock anyone but you do have to make sure that you dont ground the battery as it will arc and spark
The coil can zap you if the engine is running.
Most of the troubleshooting involves checking the things that commonly stay ON or get left on.
Get someone to help you. You have to do a current draw test and see what the sleep/security mode current is.
BC
The coil can zap you if the engine is running.
Most of the troubleshooting involves checking the things that commonly stay ON or get left on.
Get someone to help you. You have to do a current draw test and see what the sleep/security mode current is.
BC
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 21
From: Orlando Florida
I will do some more reading and figure it out myself. Really no one around to help as I'm in El Paso and we're in the middle of nowhere.
YouTube has actually helped me a lot over the years.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 689
Likes: 1
From: Media PA
Greetings from the UK. Yes we have C5's here..
Bill, I am getting a B2262 code from the LDCM.
It says historic but I believe these to be current from these modules.. anyway it wont go away and the mirror wont adjust horizontally when using the memory feature. Everything else fine memory wise, seat position, radio, AC and all ok on the passenger side..
Any ideas, bad earth, wiring, parts fault. I think this is a rare one!!
Its a 2001 Z06 by the way..
Great thread by the way and as always the guys on here are real helpful!
Bill, I am getting a B2262 code from the LDCM.
It says historic but I believe these to be current from these modules.. anyway it wont go away and the mirror wont adjust horizontally when using the memory feature. Everything else fine memory wise, seat position, radio, AC and all ok on the passenger side..
Any ideas, bad earth, wiring, parts fault. I think this is a rare one!!
Its a 2001 Z06 by the way..
Great thread by the way and as always the guys on here are real helpful!
8th Gear
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
flashing came back
Bill,
Great information. This information should be put into a format for the web and saved on a site. Searches and forum software usually never seem to work right. I've got space and bandwidth if you need it.
Thanks for the info, I'm going to try to remeber to check my grounds on some kind of service schedule once my 04 gets some age to it.
-Tony
Great information. This information should be put into a format for the web and saved on a site. Searches and forum software usually never seem to work right. I've got space and bandwidth if you need it.
Thanks for the info, I'm going to try to remeber to check my grounds on some kind of service schedule once my 04 gets some age to it.
-Tony
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
SERIAL DATA BUSS vs GROUNDS
If your IPC goes crazy and or If your doors wont work and or If your car cranks but wont start and any combo of the above happens,,,, My friend,, you most likely have a SERIAL DATA BUSS (communication path from module to module) problem.
The MOST COMMON cause for these issues happens because the power connector plug for the :
DOORS
OR
SEAT Module
They may Have bent, corroded, spread , damaged or goofed up female pins inside the female pin connector. When the female pins make POOR connection with the male pin, the module/s turn ON & OFF rapidly causing corruption on the comms line.
The garbage data causes modules to freak out and do weird things. Every C5 does something a little different. My 02 ZO6 will suffer from running in reduced power mode and the door controls wont function when the door connectors make poor connection.
IF,,, you look to the LEFT of the BCM, you will find two thin connectors. Those are the serial data buss junctions. The connector with FOUR WIRES, connects the SEAT MODULE, LDCM & RDCM to the rest of the modules.
IF, you pop the top shorting buss bar off the FOUR WIRE connector, you will isolate the SCM, LDCM and RDCM.
If the problem goes away, you have a problem in one or more of those modules. You can disconnect the drivers seat and eliminate that.
The door connector female pins are a well documented problem area. Pop out the accordion tube and fish out the door connectors in the door frame A pillar hole
Damaged Female Pins on the door power plug:
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 22, 2014 at 06:44 PM.
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Washington
Many Thanks
Hi Bill,
I just picked up an '02 coupe and before I purchased the car found your thread and took a chance on my purchase since it was exhibiting the exact issues you call out. The previous owner had spent close to 3K at the dealer over the last year and the problem kept coming back. I ended up getting this coupe with 88K miles for a good price and was able to fix the driver side door plug according to your instructions. The car looks and runs perfect now. It was throwing all the error codes with the gauges pegged, and eventually would not start.
The membership here is lucky to have you as a member. I have built and restored several cars, have a 70 Chevelle underway now, and will contribute when I can, but your electrical knowledge of these cars is impressive. So thanks again, you saved me and many others hours of frustrating troubleshooting and "stealer" cost.
Jim
I just picked up an '02 coupe and before I purchased the car found your thread and took a chance on my purchase since it was exhibiting the exact issues you call out. The previous owner had spent close to 3K at the dealer over the last year and the problem kept coming back. I ended up getting this coupe with 88K miles for a good price and was able to fix the driver side door plug according to your instructions. The car looks and runs perfect now. It was throwing all the error codes with the gauges pegged, and eventually would not start.
The membership here is lucky to have you as a member. I have built and restored several cars, have a 70 Chevelle underway now, and will contribute when I can, but your electrical knowledge of these cars is impressive. So thanks again, you saved me and many others hours of frustrating troubleshooting and "stealer" cost.
Jim
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
new-to-me 2003 vert electrical mess
So, I picked up a 2003 Vert yesterday. I test drove it a few times and it was fine. Drove fine. No electrical probs. I took it to a corvette specialist for a third party inspection. came back clean. No issues. Drive it around yesterday and this morning. No problems.
This afternoon I hand washed it. Then all the problems came at once. When I start the car, I get a slew of error messages (reduced power, low fuel, active handling, service engine soon, etc, etc). There is a full tank of gas but the gas gauge says empty. The oil temp gauge is also at zero. The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror. It seems to drive fine, although during one trip the radio would not turn on. Oh, and the lights got up immediately when I turn it on. It does not respond to the headlight switch. The lights do go off when I turn the car off. While I sift through the 85 pages or so here and try to find the answer, I'm hoping one of the members can help me out.
Edit: one more thing...my DTC's say 'No Comm' after I cleared them for all of the modules.
Think this is a ground? I'll check those first.
Gene
This afternoon I hand washed it. Then all the problems came at once. When I start the car, I get a slew of error messages (reduced power, low fuel, active handling, service engine soon, etc, etc). There is a full tank of gas but the gas gauge says empty. The oil temp gauge is also at zero. The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror. It seems to drive fine, although during one trip the radio would not turn on. Oh, and the lights got up immediately when I turn it on. It does not respond to the headlight switch. The lights do go off when I turn the car off. While I sift through the 85 pages or so here and try to find the answer, I'm hoping one of the members can help me out.
Edit: one more thing...my DTC's say 'No Comm' after I cleared them for all of the modules.
Think this is a ground? I'll check those first.
Gene
Last edited by chicagoclone; Aug 31, 2014 at 08:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
So, I picked up a 2003 Vert yesterday. I test drove it a few times and it was fine. Drove fine. No electrical probs. I took it to a corvette specialist for a third party inspection. came back clean. No issues. Drive it around yesterday and this morning. No problems.
This afternoon I hand washed it. Then all the problems came at once. When I start the car, I get a slew of error messages (reduced power, low fuel, active handling, service engine soon, etc, etc). There is a full tank of gas but the gas gauge says empty. The oil temp gauge is also at zero. The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror. It seems to drive fine, although during one trip the radio would not turn on. Oh, and the lights got up immediately when I turn it on. It does not respond to the headlight switch. The lights do go off when I turn the car off. While I gonna sift through the 85 pages or so here and try to find the answer, I'm hoping one of the members can help me out.
Edit: one more thing...my DTC's say 'No Comm' after I cleared them for all of the modules.
Think this is a ground? I'll check those first.
Gene
This afternoon I hand washed it. Then all the problems came at once. When I start the car, I get a slew of error messages (reduced power, low fuel, active handling, service engine soon, etc, etc). There is a full tank of gas but the gas gauge says empty. The oil temp gauge is also at zero. The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror. It seems to drive fine, although during one trip the radio would not turn on. Oh, and the lights got up immediately when I turn it on. It does not respond to the headlight switch. The lights do go off when I turn the car off. While I gonna sift through the 85 pages or so here and try to find the answer, I'm hoping one of the members can help me out.
Edit: one more thing...my DTC's say 'No Comm' after I cleared them for all of the modules.
Think this is a ground? I'll check those first.
Gene
Gene
This is your CLUE:
Quote: " The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror."
The 6 pin power plug in the door to body wiring harness has deformed female pins. The interruption in power causes the module to crash the serial data buss and you get spazzed out IPC info.
Pop out the accordion tube, fish out the two connectors out of the A Pillar and examine the female pins. Some will be mashed down and that makes a poor connection with the male pin. You have to bend the female pin so it makes better contact with the male pin.
Heres an example of damaged female pins in the 6 pin connector:
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 31, 2014 at 08:35 AM.
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
Gene
This is your CLUE:
Quote: " The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror."
The 6 pin power plug in the door to body wiring harness has deformed female pins. The interruption in power causes the module to crash the serial data buss and you get spazzed out IPC info.
Pop out the accordion tube, fish out the two connectors out of the A Pillar and examine the female pins. Some will be mashed down and that makes a poor connection with the male pin. You have to bend the female pin so it makes better contact with the male pin.
Heres an example of damaged female pins in the 6 pin connector:
Bill
This is your CLUE:
Quote: " The controls on the driver side door do not work. Can't lock the door, put up the window, or adjust the mirror."
The 6 pin power plug in the door to body wiring harness has deformed female pins. The interruption in power causes the module to crash the serial data buss and you get spazzed out IPC info.
Pop out the accordion tube, fish out the two connectors out of the A Pillar and examine the female pins. Some will be mashed down and that makes a poor connection with the male pin. You have to bend the female pin so it makes better contact with the male pin.
Heres an example of damaged female pins in the 6 pin connector:
Bill
This was it. I can't tell you how relieved I am!!!! Thank you so much.
Gene
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 439
Likes: 102
From: Scotts Valley Ca
I got one for you guys.
I don't know if this is common but. This morning I jumped In my c5Z it's 2003 and noticed when I step on the brake my dash lights turn on.
I also noticed my daytime running lights are also turning on when I step on the brake. They don't work otherwise! It has to be back feeding power somewhere right?? I really need some help with this one please.
Thanks.
THIS SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED ITS SELF AT THIS POINT.
We will see if it comes back. So weird. I wish my trans would fix its self.
I also noticed my daytime running lights are also turning on when I step on the brake. They don't work otherwise! It has to be back feeding power somewhere right?? I really need some help with this one please.
Thanks.
THIS SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED ITS SELF AT THIS POINT.
We will see if it comes back. So weird. I wish my trans would fix its self.
Last edited by Sportsman2003; Sep 13, 2014 at 10:12 PM.
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Electrical Gremlins
Hello Bill,
My eletrical problems started about 2 years ago after I hit a significant bump with the left front wheel. It was a raised manhole cover with the chamfered rubber ring around it just before new paving was done to get everything to proper grade. Anyways no damage to the tire or rim but it was a solid thump. Problems didn't immediately surface thought, but after I got to my destination and several hours later came out and started the car I got numerous messages; shocks inoperative, reduce engine power, service engine soon etc etc. Gas gauge read empty when it wasn't. A/C, radio, windows work intermittently.
Mine is an 03 50th anniversary convertible, never winter driven and only a handful of times driven while it was raining / wet out. just over 24,000 km's and still in showroom condition. Always winter stored and replaced the original battery after almost 10 years in 2011 (Before hitting the bump). Also after some research I had cleaned 3 of the ground connections under the hood but none of them showed any signs of corrosion. Nevertheless I cleaned them, applied dialectric grease, and put them back together.
My local mechanic took a look at the car and had actually ruled out the replacement battery as the problem and after spending half a day on the car advised I go to a specialist, which I have not done yet.
The car has sat for a while and my trickle charger's trouble light was on so I decided to replace the battery again with an AC Delco unit meant for the vehicle. As luck would have it the battery I bought in 2011 actually had a leak in the base.
After the latest new battery I initially thought the issues were gone as the vehicle ran (but not driven) for 5 - 10 minutes without the gremlins appearing, but the next day no such luck, they're back.
I think my best next step is the specialist unless they're are other fairly straight forwards things to try. I plan to attempt to locate the other grounds under the hood and inspect but don't expect to find anything.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dieter
My eletrical problems started about 2 years ago after I hit a significant bump with the left front wheel. It was a raised manhole cover with the chamfered rubber ring around it just before new paving was done to get everything to proper grade. Anyways no damage to the tire or rim but it was a solid thump. Problems didn't immediately surface thought, but after I got to my destination and several hours later came out and started the car I got numerous messages; shocks inoperative, reduce engine power, service engine soon etc etc. Gas gauge read empty when it wasn't. A/C, radio, windows work intermittently.
Mine is an 03 50th anniversary convertible, never winter driven and only a handful of times driven while it was raining / wet out. just over 24,000 km's and still in showroom condition. Always winter stored and replaced the original battery after almost 10 years in 2011 (Before hitting the bump). Also after some research I had cleaned 3 of the ground connections under the hood but none of them showed any signs of corrosion. Nevertheless I cleaned them, applied dialectric grease, and put them back together.
My local mechanic took a look at the car and had actually ruled out the replacement battery as the problem and after spending half a day on the car advised I go to a specialist, which I have not done yet.
The car has sat for a while and my trickle charger's trouble light was on so I decided to replace the battery again with an AC Delco unit meant for the vehicle. As luck would have it the battery I bought in 2011 actually had a leak in the base.
After the latest new battery I initially thought the issues were gone as the vehicle ran (but not driven) for 5 - 10 minutes without the gremlins appearing, but the next day no such luck, they're back.
I think my best next step is the specialist unless they're are other fairly straight forwards things to try. I plan to attempt to locate the other grounds under the hood and inspect but don't expect to find anything.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dieter
Many of you have asked me for help on solving electrical problems and I thought this would be VERY interesting!
My 98 coupe would get the infamous "REDUCED ENGINE POWER", "TRACTION CONTROL FAILURE" and a host of random failure codes. After many, many hours of troubleshooting, replacing the BCM and TAC module, I solved most of the driveability issues. Still getting the random DTC failure codes, I thought that I may be having ground issues. Back in June I cleaned ALL of the chassis grounds and the car virtually stopped throwing the "RANDOM" DTC failure codes. Just moving the wires in the chassis ground connector was enough to change the indications and make the issues stop happening.
I had a chance to speak with some GM C5 Trouble Desk Engineers when I went to Bowling Green KY in April and they pointed out that MANY of the C5 electrical issues can be directly linked to chassis ground problems. The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
I strongly recommend that any C5 owner that has had or who are having electrical issues, examine and clean the chassis ground connectors. This may save you from needlessly replacing expensive electronics modules. Each ground connector can be disassembled and cleaned in about 20 min.
Just cleaning the metal ground connection between the chassis and the plug is only a band aid solution. Now that I look back, when I cleaned my chassis grounds and initially solved my issues, I believe that when the connector is being removed to clean the connection between chassis and the connector, just the wires being moved inside the plug is what changed the indications and made everything work better.
Disassembly of the chassis ground plug and cleaning the contacts inside the connector is the correct method of solving the issue!
I took some pictures of the under hood chassis ground connector and the corrosion that was in it. I cleaned the two connections on the frame rails and the left one was significantly corroded! Taking it apart and cleaning it is a very straight forward procedure and I believe that if you follow this recommendation, you will be on the way to solving the many of the electrical issues.
Here are some detailed pictures of the ground connector and the corrosion that was found inside it!
Picture of under hood Chassis Ground connector G-101
Corrosion inside connector! (You ain't seen nothing yet!)
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Next three photos are of the corrosion found on the connector terminals!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG]
[/IMG]
Self tapping ground screw and star washer. This is what you will need if the ground stud breaks off during removal!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][IMG]
Here are where the chassis ground points are on a C5:
PLEASE let me know if you have any questions.
Bill Curlee
updated 02 March 06
My 98 coupe would get the infamous "REDUCED ENGINE POWER", "TRACTION CONTROL FAILURE" and a host of random failure codes. After many, many hours of troubleshooting, replacing the BCM and TAC module, I solved most of the driveability issues. Still getting the random DTC failure codes, I thought that I may be having ground issues. Back in June I cleaned ALL of the chassis grounds and the car virtually stopped throwing the "RANDOM" DTC failure codes. Just moving the wires in the chassis ground connector was enough to change the indications and make the issues stop happening.
I had a chance to speak with some GM C5 Trouble Desk Engineers when I went to Bowling Green KY in April and they pointed out that MANY of the C5 electrical issues can be directly linked to chassis ground problems. The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
I strongly recommend that any C5 owner that has had or who are having electrical issues, examine and clean the chassis ground connectors. This may save you from needlessly replacing expensive electronics modules. Each ground connector can be disassembled and cleaned in about 20 min.
Just cleaning the metal ground connection between the chassis and the plug is only a band aid solution. Now that I look back, when I cleaned my chassis grounds and initially solved my issues, I believe that when the connector is being removed to clean the connection between chassis and the connector, just the wires being moved inside the plug is what changed the indications and made everything work better.
Disassembly of the chassis ground plug and cleaning the contacts inside the connector is the correct method of solving the issue!
I took some pictures of the under hood chassis ground connector and the corrosion that was in it. I cleaned the two connections on the frame rails and the left one was significantly corroded! Taking it apart and cleaning it is a very straight forward procedure and I believe that if you follow this recommendation, you will be on the way to solving the many of the electrical issues.
Here are some detailed pictures of the ground connector and the corrosion that was found inside it!
Picture of under hood Chassis Ground connector G-101
Corrosion inside connector! (You ain't seen nothing yet!)
[IMG]
[/IMG] Next three photos are of the corrosion found on the connector terminals!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] Self tapping ground screw and star washer. This is what you will need if the ground stud breaks off during removal!
[IMG]
[/IMG] [IMG][IMG]Here are where the chassis ground points are on a C5:
PLEASE let me know if you have any questions.
Bill Curlee
updated 02 March 06
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Hello Bill,
My eletrical problems started about 2 years ago after I hit a significant bump with the left front wheel. It was a raised manhole cover with the chamfered rubber ring around it just before new paving was done to get everything to proper grade. Anyways no damage to the tire or rim but it was a solid thump. Problems didn't immediately surface thought, but after I got to my destination and several hours later came out and started the car I got numerous messages; shocks inoperative, reduce engine power, service engine soon etc etc. Gas gauge read empty when it wasn't. A/C, radio, windows work intermittently.
Mine is an 03 50th anniversary convertible, never winter driven and only a handful of times driven while it was raining / wet out. just over 24,000 km's and still in showroom condition. Always winter stored and replaced the original battery after almost 10 years in 2011 (Before hitting the bump). Also after some research I had cleaned 3 of the ground connections under the hood but none of them showed any signs of corrosion. Nevertheless I cleaned them, applied dialectric grease, and put them back together.
My local mechanic took a look at the car and had actually ruled out the replacement battery as the problem and after spending half a day on the car advised I go to a specialist, which I have not done yet.
The car has sat for a while and my trickle charger's trouble light was on so I decided to replace the battery again with an AC Delco unit meant for the vehicle. As luck would have it the battery I bought in 2011 actually had a leak in the base.
After the latest new battery I initially thought the issues were gone as the vehicle ran (but not driven) for 5 - 10 minutes without the gremlins appearing, but the next day no such luck, they're back.
I think my best next step is the specialist unless they're are other fairly straight forwards things to try. I plan to attempt to locate the other grounds under the hood and inspect but don't expect to find anything.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dieter
My eletrical problems started about 2 years ago after I hit a significant bump with the left front wheel. It was a raised manhole cover with the chamfered rubber ring around it just before new paving was done to get everything to proper grade. Anyways no damage to the tire or rim but it was a solid thump. Problems didn't immediately surface thought, but after I got to my destination and several hours later came out and started the car I got numerous messages; shocks inoperative, reduce engine power, service engine soon etc etc. Gas gauge read empty when it wasn't. A/C, radio, windows work intermittently.
Mine is an 03 50th anniversary convertible, never winter driven and only a handful of times driven while it was raining / wet out. just over 24,000 km's and still in showroom condition. Always winter stored and replaced the original battery after almost 10 years in 2011 (Before hitting the bump). Also after some research I had cleaned 3 of the ground connections under the hood but none of them showed any signs of corrosion. Nevertheless I cleaned them, applied dialectric grease, and put them back together.
My local mechanic took a look at the car and had actually ruled out the replacement battery as the problem and after spending half a day on the car advised I go to a specialist, which I have not done yet.
The car has sat for a while and my trickle charger's trouble light was on so I decided to replace the battery again with an AC Delco unit meant for the vehicle. As luck would have it the battery I bought in 2011 actually had a leak in the base.
After the latest new battery I initially thought the issues were gone as the vehicle ran (but not driven) for 5 - 10 minutes without the gremlins appearing, but the next day no such luck, they're back.
I think my best next step is the specialist unless they're are other fairly straight forwards things to try. I plan to attempt to locate the other grounds under the hood and inspect but don't expect to find anything.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Dieter
Look at post #1670 and pop the top off of the STAR connector with FOUR wires and see if your issue resolves.
If so, I would look at the six wire connector in both doors or the seat connector for damaged bent corroded pins. The female pins SUCK and spread apart and cause this.
Bill
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Important Electrical information
That is a lot of good info...Would you happen to know why on my 1999 vette the left headlight motor stays on after turning them off? The motor stays running for about 4 seconds after the lights are down..Thanks
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
From: Guntown Mississippi
Hello Bill and forum members,
First off I have read this entire section. Wow! Talk about good information. I have fixed several issues without even asking a question just from the material here.
97 vette manual shift with lots of mods:
Supercharger
Kooks headers
LS6 intake
Blower cam
GHL exhaust
Spec Stage 3 clutch kit
Custom tune
Many others....
Problems so far as follows:
The dreaded battery acid leak: Replaced vacuum line and cleaned ground splice block thanks to the forum.
Headlight motor grinding: Replaced gears thanks to the forum
Battery drain: Diagnosed bad alternator diodes thanks to the forum.
The car runs and drives like a beast.
I am currently going through all the grounds. Have not found much to this point and I'm about half way there.
Only issues I am having are as follows:
When I check the codes I see the following:
P1571
C1281
SCM - No comm.
I clear them and they come back.
I did change the seats. All the controls work. Not sure why the No comm to the SCM.
Also every now and then I can hit a bump or pull into a drive that is raised like a drain curb or something and it will pop up service ABS and traction control. I clear it and it might be weeks before it happens again. Seems if I twist the car or pull in or out of the type of driveway I noted above it happens. I also have been seeing the:
Service Vehicle Soon message.
Thanks to all for this great forum and information. Please chime in if you can offer any help on the above issues. And Thanks again Bill. I couldn't imagine the dollar figure you have saved people.
First off I have read this entire section. Wow! Talk about good information. I have fixed several issues without even asking a question just from the material here.
97 vette manual shift with lots of mods:
Supercharger
Kooks headers
LS6 intake
Blower cam
GHL exhaust
Spec Stage 3 clutch kit
Custom tune
Many others....
Problems so far as follows:
The dreaded battery acid leak: Replaced vacuum line and cleaned ground splice block thanks to the forum.
Headlight motor grinding: Replaced gears thanks to the forum
Battery drain: Diagnosed bad alternator diodes thanks to the forum.
The car runs and drives like a beast.
I am currently going through all the grounds. Have not found much to this point and I'm about half way there.
Only issues I am having are as follows:
When I check the codes I see the following:
P1571
C1281
SCM - No comm.
I clear them and they come back.
I did change the seats. All the controls work. Not sure why the No comm to the SCM.
Also every now and then I can hit a bump or pull into a drive that is raised like a drain curb or something and it will pop up service ABS and traction control. I clear it and it might be weeks before it happens again. Seems if I twist the car or pull in or out of the type of driveway I noted above it happens. I also have been seeing the:
Service Vehicle Soon message.
Thanks to all for this great forum and information. Please chime in if you can offer any help on the above issues. And Thanks again Bill. I couldn't imagine the dollar figure you have saved people.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Hello Bill and forum members,
First off I have read this entire section. Wow! Talk about good information. I have fixed several issues without even asking a question just from the material here.
97 vette manual shift with lots of mods:
Supercharger
Kooks headers
LS6 intake
Blower cam
GHL exhaust
Spec Stage 3 clutch kit
Custom tune
Many others....
Problems so far as follows:
The dreaded battery acid leak: Replaced vacuum line and cleaned ground splice block thanks to the forum.
Headlight motor grinding: Replaced gears thanks to the forum
Battery drain: Diagnosed bad alternator diodes thanks to the forum.
The car runs and drives like a beast.
I am currently going through all the grounds. Have not found much to this point and I'm about half way there.
Only issues I am having are as follows:
When I check the codes I see the following:
P1571
C1281
SCM - No comm.
I clear them and they come back.
I did change the seats. All the controls work. Not sure why the No comm to the SCM.
Also every now and then I can hit a bump or pull into a drive that is raised like a drain curb or something and it will pop up service ABS and traction control. I clear it and it might be weeks before it happens again. Seems if I twist the car or pull in or out of the type of driveway I noted above it happens. I also have been seeing the:
Service Vehicle Soon message.
Thanks to all for this great forum and information. Please chime in if you can offer any help on the above issues. And Thanks again Bill. I couldn't imagine the dollar figure you have saved people.
First off I have read this entire section. Wow! Talk about good information. I have fixed several issues without even asking a question just from the material here.
97 vette manual shift with lots of mods:
Supercharger
Kooks headers
LS6 intake
Blower cam
GHL exhaust
Spec Stage 3 clutch kit
Custom tune
Many others....
Problems so far as follows:
The dreaded battery acid leak: Replaced vacuum line and cleaned ground splice block thanks to the forum.
Headlight motor grinding: Replaced gears thanks to the forum
Battery drain: Diagnosed bad alternator diodes thanks to the forum.
The car runs and drives like a beast.
I am currently going through all the grounds. Have not found much to this point and I'm about half way there.
Only issues I am having are as follows:
When I check the codes I see the following:
P1571
C1281
SCM - No comm.
I clear them and they come back.
I did change the seats. All the controls work. Not sure why the No comm to the SCM.
Also every now and then I can hit a bump or pull into a drive that is raised like a drain curb or something and it will pop up service ABS and traction control. I clear it and it might be weeks before it happens again. Seems if I twist the car or pull in or out of the type of driveway I noted above it happens. I also have been seeing the:
Service Vehicle Soon message.
Thanks to all for this great forum and information. Please chime in if you can offer any help on the above issues. And Thanks again Bill. I couldn't imagine the dollar figure you have saved people.
The SCM No Comms. Hmmm, is the seat that you installed a MEMORY seat? If the car that it came out of didnt have memory, it will not work by the memory function. The BCM has to be able to communicate with the memory module.
Yes,, it will function fine manually
Compare the seat that you took out with the one you installed AND look at the seat connector and see if it has a memory wire that matches with the memory wire in the body connector for the seat:
Look for the BROWN WHITE wire:
BC