IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 12
From: Farnham Virginia
Declaring success....
Wayne
When the starter cranks the engine, it pulls 300+ amps and battery voltage goes low. When the starter doesnt crank, you see full battery voltage on that circuit.
The symptoms that your describing tells me that it could very well be the switch. Its easy to remove and clean, Give that a try.
BC
When the starter cranks the engine, it pulls 300+ amps and battery voltage goes low. When the starter doesnt crank, you see full battery voltage on that circuit.
The symptoms that your describing tells me that it could very well be the switch. Its easy to remove and clean, Give that a try.
BC
I think I'm declaring success (Hope I don't have to eat my words
)! I decided to replace my ignition switch with a new one from Gene Culley ($65) rather than clean the original one. Replaced it this afternoon, drove the car, started/stopped multiple times, and so far none of the old symptoms! Thanks for your help.Wayne
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: MN
I got a good stumper for everyone...
PCM throws P1120 everytime I turn the key off. If I turn the key back on, the gas pedal will no longer control the throttle. If I clear the code I can use the gas pedal again. Start the car, turn it off, turn the key off, that code comes back again. Only way to start again is to reset the code.
I verified all the wiring is good (continuity, ref voltages, etc), and the TAC module was swapped with a proven working one, still no joy.
Any ideas?
PCM throws P1120 everytime I turn the key off. If I turn the key back on, the gas pedal will no longer control the throttle. If I clear the code I can use the gas pedal again. Start the car, turn it off, turn the key off, that code comes back again. Only way to start again is to reset the code.
I verified all the wiring is good (continuity, ref voltages, etc), and the TAC module was swapped with a proven working one, still no joy.
Any ideas?
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Electrical Issue
I have 2001 Coupe. The fuel door will not open except by using the pull cord in the back. The fuse checks okay. What else should I check befor going to the dealer? This is the first time it has failed in over a year. DTC codes pulled 58 sdm U196h, bo rfa u1000 and u1064. Any assistance is appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 12
From: Farnham Virginia
I have 2001 Coupe. The fuel door will not open except by using the pull cord in the back. The fuse checks okay. What else should I check befor going to the dealer? This is the first time it has failed in over a year. DTC codes pulled 58 sdm U196h, bo rfa u1000 and u1064. Any assistance is appreciated.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 2
From: Duluth GA
The switch was exactly my problem a few years back. I believe it was a warranty repair at the dealer; I don't remember any pricing details or fix details. I could feel the fuel door switch not "clicking" when pressed. The part can't be too expensive to replace (it's gotta be either the electrical switch component or a broken piece on the plastic button), and pulling the center console is a snap.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
Glad this thread has become a Sticky!!!! 
2003 AE.... the driver side door controls intermediately stopped working yesterday, could open the door, wiggle the wiring harness and make the controls start working again. Started getting all the Crazy DIC warnings on the way home, even made the radio stop working.
Will start with short in the door project first then move on to grounds...
Thanks!
2003 AE.... the driver side door controls intermediately stopped working yesterday, could open the door, wiggle the wiring harness and make the controls start working again. Started getting all the Crazy DIC warnings on the way home, even made the radio stop working.
Will start with short in the door project first then move on to grounds...
Thanks!
please help me, i have the same problem, but in the passenger door, lock, windows and mirror control are not working, radio stop working and many codes in DIC
, Reduced Engine Power, Service traction control system, Check tire pressure, car needs servicing, please help me i dont know what is it, somebody knows, how repair it?? 
, thanks!!!
John.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
ANYTIME that MULTIPLE systems are effected especially if you have NO COMMS, the problem is most likely a serial data buss issue. It usually ends up being a grounded, or shorted. You have to start simple. Look back in this sticky and check your door wiring harnesses and connections in the accordion tubes and make sure that the BCM isnt wet.
BC
BC
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
ANYTIME that MULTIPLE systems are effected especially if you have NO COMMS, the problem is most likely a serial data buss issue. It usually ends up being a grounded, or shorted. You have to start simple. Look back in this sticky and check your door wiring harnesses and connections in the accordion tubes and make sure that the BCM isnt wet.
BC
BC
Thanks for your help Bill,
John.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
Well, i followed the Bill suggestions, i moved the accordion tube... and magic!!!, the door control began to work, tomorrow in the morning, i will check this trouble of the appropriate way,
thanks Bill.
thanks Bill.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington NC
FYI; I couldn't find any " liquid electrical tape" so I just used RTV on the wires in my doors it works great. I'm soooo happy this thread is here. Wonder how much money it has saved us....? Anyways, thanks Bill & everyone else!
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 1
From: Livingston MT
This is a great thread! It helped me partially locate the reason my 04 Z06 recently started killing the battery. Now I need a little more help.. I did the Amp draw tests and found that I have a 4.2 Amp draw while the car is in sleep mode. It goes away when I pull the #25 fuse out of the fuse box located under the passenger floor board. The #25 fuse is for the dash cluster(?), are there any specific parts I should start looking at? I recently added an ATI Tracmem (which rocks) so my first checks will be those wires under the dash, but I'd like some advise on where else to look while the car is torn apart.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Check and make sure that your ignition switch is not causing the issue. If the contacts are stuck shut, it can cause that issue.
BC
BC
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
You where right on the mark. The connection to the switch was pulled. I had taken the car to the dealer for transmission fluid change. After that the switch did not work. Is it possible they pulled on the wiring in working on the transmission? But anyway many thanks!!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 1
From: GA
B0022 Code and airbag light after steering wheel swap
Well I replaced my steering wheel and ran into two small issues. Got everything reassembled and took the car for a test drive. Despite my best efforts, I failed to consider that the splines in my new wheel would be slightly different and effect alignment so it's slightly off.
A little bit of a pain as I will have to disconnect my airbag again and remove wheel to adjust clocking a couple of splines to the right . The second issue and what I need help with is that the airbag light is staying illuminated. I checked my codes and throwing out all the historical ones, I get the B0022 Driver Loop Circuit. Is this telling me that I did not one of the connections seated properly or is it something worse? Also, while checking the diagnostic codes, I hit reset several times to clear the historical codes and they would not reset. What am I doing wrong?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated
A little bit of a pain as I will have to disconnect my airbag again and remove wheel to adjust clocking a couple of splines to the right . The second issue and what I need help with is that the airbag light is staying illuminated. I checked my codes and throwing out all the historical ones, I get the B0022 Driver Loop Circuit. Is this telling me that I did not one of the connections seated properly or is it something worse? Also, while checking the diagnostic codes, I hit reset several times to clear the historical codes and they would not reset. What am I doing wrong?Any and all help is greatly appreciated
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Vidor Texas
. Basically removes all water with no water residue to steam up the electrical parts.