SV

Don't forget. All ground maintenance MUST be followed up by something like this! CORROSION Prevention Product:



There are different products but, this did good by me.

BC

 

CONT. POST 861


i think i found the AC delco P#. can someone confirm this is the right one before i buy? thanks




CONNECTOR-W/LEADS, 3-WAY F. *BLACK
Part Number: PT1604
Product Notes:
[Sensor-Mass Airflow Connector]; 3-Way female black
Per Vehicle: 1; Years: 1997-2000

 

Hello Bill
I have an 02 with ignition problems...I have narrowed it down to drives longer than thirty minutes. After I shut it down the next time I go to start it no starter engage...all lights and instruments come to life but no start. Fiddle with the key open door retry and eventually it kicks over. Thought it might be the chip on the key or the safety switch on the shifter or maybe the steering wheel mech. Could it be this ground connector?
PS occasionally I will hear a hum through the radio as well. Any help here would be great thank you.

 

Bill, Could you take a picture of your garage, it says a lot, I am short time member and originall posted a electrial problem, it was only a fuse [starter] with a bit of corrision [ no codes no start] I believe you gave replys of both of my other problems, Hats off I brose the forum every few days and enjoy your level of involvement. I'm in my 3rd corvette with my current 2001 and a fair shadetree but these are beyond that and the forum solves much of the rest and you seem to be much of the forum. Hats off I love my Corvette!

 

Bobby

 

Your issue is most likely the starter solenoid. Do you have ANY DTCs??

Check the DTCs and is your car an auto or manual?

BC

 

Thanks for getting back to me...it is an automatic. I must plead ignorant..I haven't checked for DTC's and quite honestly not sure how. Still a rookie ...but I am learning...and your posts are a wealth of information...Thank you

 

Heres a late Easter present for ya!


READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!




BC

 

Again...my thanks to the master...
Will there be a DTC code for a solenoid problem? and because its an automatic could it be in the neutral safety switch?

 

No.. No DTCs for that issue. Heres a schematic for you. The Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) is where you should start troubleshooting. There are two sides of that relay. The low voltage low current side and the low voltage HIGH current side. If the stuff that makes the relay energize works, look on the high current side that operates the solenoid.

Get a meter and start investigating.

The Solenoids are a known failure point. I kept a long insulated metal rod in my trunk that I would use to whack the solenoid when it would act up.

 

Great thread Bill. I read about the first 15 pages and then went to find out why I was getting about 20 different electrical codes and the "reduced engine power". It all happened right after I installed the Vararam and put in a new battery. Turned out the negative connection on the battery was pretty corroded. I also cleaned off the main ground up by the front driver's wheel and found some corrosion there too. No problems now!

 

i have those problems too everything that u said that ur car use to do mine does and its annoying i guess im gonna do wat u did man thanks for the tip

 

My 99 is showing eratic ext temp readings. First it would run down to 19F then up to actual outside temp. Now it is stuck at -36F.
I have replaced the sensor itself but no change.

Is this a ground problem? If so, which one?

Thanks.

 

I opened up ground connectors G101 and G102 and found no green corrosion but just a little discoloration of the male pins. Cleaned them with steel wool, sealed with dielectric and reinstalled on a bare metal frame.
Also cleaned primary ground G104 and reattached on bare metal frame. Covered with anticorrosion gel.

Temp Sensor is working much better althought it still bounces up and down about 10 degrees near the actual outdoor temp.

Short answer: MUCH better.

 

Recommend that you carefully examine the temp sensor connectors female pins. There most likely corroded/dirty or spread apart.

 

Thanks, Bill.
I checked them and they looked OK. I added some dielectric and re connected. Test drive tomorrow.

 

Bill, you saved me with the ignition by pass when my iginition switch when bad.

 

Turned out my problem was/is a damaged female connector at the sensor location. Other posts informed me that GM has a connector with pigtail to replace my damaged one.
I also learned that Active Handling uses this sensor so I have been getting Service Active Handling messages.
Hopin for a cure with the new connector......

 

Here ya GO!

Contact GENE Culley www.gmpartshouse.com

 

Hi Bill,
Is that for me?
I understood from other posts that the GM P/N for the outside air temp is 12102620.
Thanks.