NO,,,,,,,,,,,,Sorry. Your connector is a different one. Gene has it OR you could try to get it at your local AutoZone, NAPA or Advance.

I answer 20 post a night, Sorry for the confusion.

I will try to find it in ESI for you. See if you can use a pick and bend the toung back down to make good contact.

BC

 

Thanks or all you do, Bill. I've learned a ton from your posts.
My problem is a missing contact tongue - the harness female connector has one silver tongue contact, not two as it should.
If I cannot find it locally, I'll check with Gene.
Thanks again.

 

Wow thanks SO MUCH for this post. When I pulled my right headlamp motor fuse, my amp draw dropped from about 1.0 to 0.15. BINGO! Thank you so much.

 

Hi Bill,
So far I have replaced the Ext Temp Sensor, cleaned grounds at G101, G102 and G104, replaced the harness connector, tried both old and new sensor and I still have erattic indications on the AC panel. Right now it's stuck at 14F which will not allow the AC to work.
I'd greatly appreciate any insight as to what to do next.
Thanks

 

You need to read the sensor from the module connector:

Connector D Pin D1 is ground ( Grey/black ) & pin D3 ( Light Green/black stripe) is the sensor Read the sensor from there and see if you can get a good reading. Apply heat and cold to the sensor and see if you can get a varying Resistance reading.

IF,,,you get good readings from the Connector removed from the module, you may possibly have a bad module. The modules are WELL Known to have poor circuit connections that need to be re soldered.

BC

 

Thanks Bill.
If I find a bad connector module, should I take it our and go with grounded O connectors instead?

 

I dont think you understood what I said. On the back of the HVAC Control module find connector D and read the pins on the wiring harnesss with an ohm meter and see if you can read the sensor form the connector. That will tell you if its the wiring harness and or sensor that bad or the HVAC Control Module.

BC

 

Well, Bill,
Tonight the sensor seems to be OK. After engine startup the sensor indication drops then sensor indication reverses and climbs to more or less outside temp.
Is this sensor on a heat up circuit?
Thanks for all your help.

 

Hi guys,
I apologize in advancd if I missed this in this thread search but I haven't found my exact problem yet. I stopped at a dealership last weekend to look at a new C6 and had my 2001 Z06 appraised for trade in. Didn't trade:...got back in my car to drive off and the speedometer and tach started flopping back and forth rapidly and the car died as I was backing away from the parking spot. I tried the key and it started up OK. I drove it home and things looked fine, no MIL. Thought maybe they flashed the computer and it needed to smooth itself out. Didn't drive it until the this weekend and had the guages flopping again, this time with the dash flickering and a low voltage msg on the DIC. The car actually died while driving on the interstate. Looked at the battery and found neg cable dead loose. Tried to tighten it and the steel lug in the neg terminal was stripped. Went to Oreillys and bought a new battery, charged it for a couple of hours & installed it. I think I saw every code from traction control to you-name-it go off. I cleared them thinking it was just mad because it had been without power for a while. No such luck...
So here is where I am now. I had to drive it to work this morning--had to try 3 times to get it to start. Cleared all the codes while driving (60 mi. trip) Charging 14.1 volts at DIC. Got all the way to work, no issues, checked codes and it was clear. Turned off switch and just for giggles, tried to start it again and no joy. Second try it started with "REDUCED ENGINE POWER". Shut it off again, guages sweep normally and it starts OK and shows 11.2 V @ DIC. and "LOW VOLTAGE" Checked with digital meter and battery is 12.5V @ terminals. Started it again and checked voltage at alternator main lead and case and got 14.58V and 14.4V @ battery leads (AFTER A FEW MIN RUN TIME). Ran jumper from main alt. hot to battery and nothing changed. I have been under car to look at starter leads found nothing special except the tan fusable link was stiff as a board and seemed to have a little bump in the center of it. Also there is glue or something oozing from each end of it. I disconnected it from the starter and checked resistance and looked good. Sorry for the length of this post but I figured I would get as much info out there in the beginning to help narrow down some of the variables. I will go up to the NAPA right up the street when I can get away from the shop to have them load this new battery and see if it is OK. Thanks again.

 

Sounds just like a defective ignition switch. The DIC Voltage and the IPC meter get powered AFTER the ignition switch. Heres a post on the switch and how to rebuild t for FREE.

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Try that and see what you get.

BC

 

Will do....had the battery load tested today just to make sure and it stayed above 12 volts @ 100 amp draw for close to 20 seconds.. I drove it (60 mi) home and the dash clicked and flashed off and on about 5 times when I started it but once I got rolling the volts @ DIC came up from about 11.5V to 14.3V and stayed around there with headlights on all the way. No codes after I shut it down in the garage...everything I checked seemed to work just fine except that I see the CD icon lit on the radio display and I can't get it to play or to eject. I really don't think I have a CD loaded but I haven't figured out how to tell yet.

 

Hi Bill,
I have rounded up a Master Electrician to help me with your test. But we are both newbies with C5s and don't know where the HVAC module is located. So, if you can help us with that, we can run the test.
Thanks again.

 

Hi Bill,
If it will help with the diagnosis, I recorded Ext Temp readings on three 20+ minute drives today:
1. Ambient 92F
Start up with cold engine 34 F
After 12 min 28 F
Then over 16 min 74, 66, 47

2. Ambient 90F
Start up 45F with warm engine
Then over 15 min 45,47,54,48,83,74,71

3. Ambient 82F
Start up 85F with warm engine
Then over 20 min 59, 81, 73, 85, 73, 81, 77.

Perhaps you can see a pattern here - I cannot.

Thanks mucho.

UPDATE:
My local Corvette savvy speed shop tells me that the voltage across the harness leads that connect to the ambient temp sensor should be 5VDC. I'm reading 3.6 V with key on, engine off and 2.4 V with engine running. Dash reads 54F and 14F respectively. He says this means that I have a failing HVAC module/dash unit. Is he correct?

Thanks again.

 

Well, Mr. Curlee, if everybody that owes you a beer for helping them with their electrical problems actually could buy one for you, you would be one drunk S.O.B. I took out the ignition switch and sure enough some of the contacts were black and pitted. I cleaned them up and tightened the tension of the arms and the little black Z seems to be happy again. Thanks again.

 

Well,,the fact that I dont like beer would make that a good trick. JD is a better idea.

Glad I could help. Those Ignition Switches are dieing like no tomorow!

Bc

 

Bill,
Pls see my update above.
Tks.

 

Your mechanic is ABSOLUTY CORRECT,,,however,,,,,you should check to see that you have full battery on the HVACCON FUSE and that you have a solid ground ZERO OHMS to ground on module pin (C1 )

If you have full battery voltage on the fuse output and a good gound, something is wrong with the module. If it were me,,,,I would open the module and look for poor circuit connections (the magnifing glass is your FRIEND! )

 

Thanks again, Bill.
Do you know of a site or link where I can find pics of the pins and innards of the HVAC module so I will know better what I am looking for?
W.

 

 

Excellent!
Is G202 at the foot of one of the A pillars?
I have checked G101, G102 and G103 so far and all OK
Best,
W.