IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)





- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
I bet this will address the issue!
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
BC
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau





I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
Most of the time, the problem is a bad female pin or corrosion in one of the connectors. The FRONT WSS connects to the chassis connector thru a jumper cable. It is a well known problem area.

Pull ALL the wiring connectors apart and inspect the female pins in EACH connector. Look for female pins that are spread like the one in this picture:

The connector on the right has two bad female pins:

I use an old spare male pin to test each female pin. If the make pin is loose in the female pin, thats your issue. You can bend down the little tong in the female pin but, its only a temp fix.

The wheel speed sensor circuit does not use a common chassis ground. It uses a circuit card LOW REF and a signal wire that goes directly to the EBTCM
You can disconnect the main connector on the EBTCM and read each wheel sensor from there. That test will not pin point a problem that happens when the wheel sees shock and vibration.
You can set the meter to Volts AC and spin the wheel and read the output of the sensor. The faster you spin the wheel, the more AC Volts you will see.
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Pull the board out of the box anc check for corrosion. Disconnect the battery first!
BC










DTC C-1234 has nothing to do with connecting the battery unless you fried the EBTCM. Its the left rear wheel speed sensor. Most likely a bad female pin the the connector for the chassis side of the wiring harness. Don't be duped into installing a new wheel Hub.. Unless theres damage to the pig tail connector, Ive never ever seen a Speed Sensor go bad. Like I said, check the connections at the plug.
BC
Bagger
DTC C-1234 has nothing to do with connecting the battery unless you fried the EBTCM. Its the left rear wheel speed sensor. Most likely a bad female pin the the connector for the chassis side of the wiring harness. Don't be duped into installing a new wheel Hub.. Unless theres damage to the pig tail connector, Ive never ever seen a Speed Sensor go bad. Like I said, check the connections at the plug.
BC





Bagger
if you can use a Volt/OHM/AMP Meter, I can post some test and resistance/voltage readings your suppose to get.
All the other issues should clear. If not, post the DTC.
BC
Bagger
Thanks for your posting. I constantly deal with electrical issues in my 99. I have a #s
matching 72. When I want to drive my c3, I just start it and go. When I drive my 99,
I bring along an ohm meter. I did not realize their were so many ground points. I have plugged and unplugged virtually every connection that I thought would throw a code including the battery ground connections. The codes are reset and a month later, the codes are back. I am going to give your method a try. I don't believe that there is a component malfunction and that it is a ground problem. The codes return after hitting a small bump in the road.THANKS AGAIN!!
SV
Last edited by salsvette; Mar 21, 2010 at 10:35 PM.
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