IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
7th Gear
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Patterson La.
electrical question
When I turn the key to accesory nothing happens, I checked the fuse and it's good, it has a after market radio in it. Does anyone know if the radio should play with the accesory on, also there is a little red light on the drivers side door, is this for thr anti-theft system and how to change the buld or LED.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When I turn the key to accesory nothing happens, I checked the fuse and it's good, it has a after market radio in it. Does anyone know if the radio should play with the accesory on, also there is a little red light on the drivers side door, is this for thr anti-theft system and how to change the buld or LED.
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
I bet this will address the issue!
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
BC
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Rochester NY
Bill,
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix Arizona
Bill,
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill,
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
I'm pulling 3 codes on my 2000:
C1221- LF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1225- RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1232-LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Service ABS/Active Handling Lights are illuminated
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
Beau
Most of the time, the problem is a bad female pin or corrosion in one of the connectors. The FRONT WSS connects to the chassis connector thru a jumper cable. It is a well known problem area.
Pull ALL the wiring connectors apart and inspect the female pins in EACH connector. Look for female pins that are spread like the one in this picture:
The connector on the right has two bad female pins:
I use an old spare male pin to test each female pin. If the make pin is loose in the female pin, thats your issue. You can bend down the little tong in the female pin but, its only a temp fix.
The wheel speed sensor circuit does not use a common chassis ground. It uses a circuit card LOW REF and a signal wire that goes directly to the EBTCM
You can disconnect the main connector on the EBTCM and read each wheel sensor from there. That test will not pin point a problem that happens when the wheel sees shock and vibration.
You can set the meter to Volts AC and spin the wheel and read the output of the sensor. The faster you spin the wheel, the more AC Volts you will see.
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Advanced
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Slidell Louisiana
I changed the battery, cleaned the ground connections,removed the battery box and checked all the wires under the box. The car is showing the same problems still Looks like a christmas tree. Could it possibly be the BCM? If not any otherideas? Thanks in advance...
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If the BCM is WET or the back of the board is corroded, it can give these symptoms. Check the BCM and the area around it for water or moisture. See if there is any dampnedd unde the carpet.
Pull the board out of the box anc check for corrosion. Disconnect the battery first!
BC
Pull the board out of the box anc check for corrosion. Disconnect the battery first!
BC
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Portland Maine
Bill you was right, wrong code
Bill you was right I gave you the wrong code, the correct code is C1234 left front wheel speed circuit open, this happenned right after I changed out the battery. From what I can understand is it could be a loose conection or the sensor, sorry for providing the wrong code.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill you was right I gave you the wrong code, the correct code is C1234 left front wheel speed circuit open, this happenned right after I changed out the battery. From what I can understand is it could be a loose conection or the sensor, sorry for providing the wrong code.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Portland Maine
While I was installing a new battery I heard a couple of fairly loud snapping noises coming from the rightside engine compartment, when I started the car I had a host of codes, c1234, c1241, c1248 and c1283, all clear by reseting with the exception of C1234. The dash looks like a Christmas tree with the traction, brake, and ABS light on. I have put about a 1K miles on since this happenned without the driver aids but I would love to get this straightened out. Thanks Bill.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Anytime you reconnect the battery, unless you do it VERY QUICKLY, your going to see an arc. There are a couple of power hungry circuits that get reennergized and there is about an eight amp draw for a millisecond or so and then it drops down to around 2 amps and once the BCM times out and gets into sleep/security mode, finial draw is 0.02 amps.
DTC C-1234 has nothing to do with connecting the battery unless you fried the EBTCM. Its the left rear wheel speed sensor. Most likely a bad female pin the the connector for the chassis side of the wiring harness. Don't be duped into installing a new wheel Hub.. Unless theres damage to the pig tail connector, Ive never ever seen a Speed Sensor go bad. Like I said, check the connections at the plug.
BC
DTC C-1234 has nothing to do with connecting the battery unless you fried the EBTCM. Its the left rear wheel speed sensor. Most likely a bad female pin the the connector for the chassis side of the wiring harness. Don't be duped into installing a new wheel Hub.. Unless theres damage to the pig tail connector, Ive never ever seen a Speed Sensor go bad. Like I said, check the connections at the plug.
BC
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Portland Maine
Thanks Bill I checked the conections and they looked a little sketchy as in very loose going into the conector, If the EBTCM was fried would everything else clear except DTC-1234? Thanks for taking the time with us less mechanically inclined, well at least myself.
Bagger
Bagger
Anytime you reconnect the battery, unless you do it VERY QUICKLY, your going to see an arc. There are a couple of power hungry circuits that get reennergized and there is about an eight amp draw for a millisecond or so and then it drops down to around 2 amps and once the BCM times out and gets into sleep/security mode, finial draw is 0.02 amps.
DTC C-1234 has nothing to do with connecting the battery unless you fried the EBTCM. Its the left rear wheel speed sensor. Most likely a bad female pin the the connector for the chassis side of the wiring harness. Don't be duped into installing a new wheel Hub.. Unless theres damage to the pig tail connector, Ive never ever seen a Speed Sensor go bad. Like I said, check the connections at the plug.
BC
DTC C-1234 has nothing to do with connecting the battery unless you fried the EBTCM. Its the left rear wheel speed sensor. Most likely a bad female pin the the connector for the chassis side of the wiring harness. Don't be duped into installing a new wheel Hub.. Unless theres damage to the pig tail connector, Ive never ever seen a Speed Sensor go bad. Like I said, check the connections at the plug.
BC
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks Bill I checked the conections and they looked a little sketchy as in very loose going into the conector, If the EBTCM was fried would everything else clear except DTC-1234? Thanks for taking the time with us less mechanically inclined, well at least myself.
Bagger
Bagger
if you can use a Volt/OHM/AMP Meter, I can post some test and resistance/voltage readings your suppose to get.
All the other issues should clear. If not, post the DTC.
BC
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Portland Maine
Bill that would be a huge help if you could post some test and resistance/voltage readings, I have a meter and this would give me a clue on what wires or cables to repair or replace, you have been a huge help, Thank you so much Bill.
Bagger
Bagger
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: VINELAND NJ
Bill,
Thanks for your posting. I constantly deal with electrical issues in my 99. I have a #s
matching 72. When I want to drive my c3, I just start it and go. When I drive my 99,
I bring along an ohm meter. I did not realize their were so many ground points. I have plugged and unplugged virtually every connection that I thought would throw a code including the battery ground connections. The codes are reset and a month later, the codes are back. I am going to give your method a try. I don't believe that there is a component malfunction and that it is a ground problem. The codes return after hitting a small bump in the road.THANKS AGAIN!!
SV
Thanks for your posting. I constantly deal with electrical issues in my 99. I have a #s
matching 72. When I want to drive my c3, I just start it and go. When I drive my 99,
I bring along an ohm meter. I did not realize their were so many ground points. I have plugged and unplugged virtually every connection that I thought would throw a code including the battery ground connections. The codes are reset and a month later, the codes are back. I am going to give your method a try. I don't believe that there is a component malfunction and that it is a ground problem. The codes return after hitting a small bump in the road.THANKS AGAIN!!
SV
Last edited by salsvette; Mar 21, 2010 at 10:35 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,367
Likes: 0
From: East Oakland CA
part number for this cable? it plugs in to the MAF
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...0538-help.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...0538-help.html