the bottom picture connector near the headlight, mine is a different type connector with a non plastic connector.

the ground is good

i would hit the brakes fast and hard at the end of a straight around 80 to 110 depending on which straight and the pedal would stay stiff and feel a small vibration like running you foot over marbles but barely got any stopping power standing on it! Sometimes i could get it to stop by taking my foot off and hitting it the pedal rapidly the brakes would work. But on the last bad track day that no longer worked and it was getting more consistent failures. I got really got good at pitching it back and forth and sideways to slow it down but it was kinda scary
Eventually i just drove a little slower


what was strange there were absolutely no codes!


It has been working pretty good street driving and was good the last track day. That was after just twisting and re seating the connector. but I am going to either cut the connector out and solder them straight through or get a new connector installed before the next event

Or...it could just be a coincidence and it will happen again. I will post up if it re occurs

 

The EBTCM actually CLEARS the DTCs at ignition shut off. The next time you have a EBTCM/braking issue, read the DTCs before turning off the ignition.

BC

 

thx! will do

 

Bill, I've just recent had this problem with the same problems as this fellow posted. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...n-highway.html

I took it to my performance shop I use and they automatically said they believe it is something in the engine rather than electrical. I would rather just try the connecters than having going deeper than need be. The only difference from the original post was that mine will start up and barely run like sh^t before dying after having this happen on the hwy going about 60. I just recently bought my 2002 Z06 and it was well taken care of before me as well as I have done nothing but good for the 3 months I have owned it. Is there a place to buy the new connecters/wiring behind the door panels? I would rather buy those just incase before having the performance shop investigate further and open the engine up. Thank you all for all of the advice!

 

There are several places that sell the GM Weather tight connectors but there very expensive and you would have to solder it on. Get a bank loan if you get it thru GM. This TWO PIN wheel speed sensor pig tail was $25 EACH thru GM Service desk way back in 06.





Its only the female pins that have the issue. Just examine them and use a pick to tighten it up. Test the pins with a male pin. Here is what I use:



Very simple issue and solution once you figure it out.

BC

 

I did this procedure to all of my "Ground Buses". I also filled them completely with Di electric compound to help avoid a relapse! Verified voltage drops and did several resistance test and all came back good. Excellent write up. Thanks for sharing your time to help others.

 

Hi Bill. Thanks for all the great info. Would you be able to help with where to find an Instrument Panel Fuse Block for my '97. Had a problem with the left front turn light. Local Chevy tech traced it to the Instrument Fuse panel (Part #12193838). Said the Panel is bad where the relay plugs in. Also, there appears to be an empty relay spot on the fuse panel but I am not sure if it could be used in place of the bad spot because of wiring. Have been unable to find a replacement part through dealer and various salvage. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I it were me,,, I would pop the fuse panel up, flip it over and disconnect the connectors from the fuse box. Get the actual disconnected fuse box on the bench and figure out exactly why the relay is having issues. If its a spread female pin you can fix it. Most of the time you can use a dental pick or scribe and re bend the faulty pins so they make proper contact with the relay.

If all else fails and the actual fuse box is melted, you can maybe move the wires inside the connector plugs on the bottom and move the metal female pins in the fuse box to an empty slot. You can also epoxy repair the melted plastic if it is melted.

Give that a try and see how it works out. Take a picture of the actual problem and maybe I can provide you some repair tips.

BC

 

I have seem to caught some electrical gremlins on my Z. I just installed an HP TT kit, and now it won't turn over. I located battery back to trunk, grounded it to the frame and grounded the old battery- to the frame by the other ground. I do have a few other codes as well: u1040, no TCS comm, no HVAC comm and one other B code. There was a loom of broken/ripped wires that ran into the car, so I reconnected them and cleaned them up.

when you turn the key on, all the power is there but nothing happens when I turn the key. no clicks, no nothing. Any ideas? I am in a bind.

Also, there is a loom of wires that goes across the back of the fans, there are two plugs that connect to the fans, and they there is a 2 prong blue plug, anyone know what that goes to? Thanks.

 

wow! What all is in a HP TT kit? Did you install it? Sounds like you still have a wire loom disconnected somewhere. Start tracing wires G/L

 

Oh forgot, here where it is. Passengers foot well behind the toe board:






Black Box.. Silver box is the BCM

 

Nothing too crazy with electrical install with the HP kit. Just have to re-route some connectors and they are all connected.

 

any of the connectors you unconnected and reconnected for the install might have cold solder joints inside the connectors. I would replace the connectors that is where i would start

 

Thanks again, Bill. He schooled me on the world of electronics. I am now able to read the Starting and charging schematics. It was all foreign before. I will update this thread tomorrow when I accomplish the tests Bill recommended.

 

Mine ended up being two valve spring failures fyi.

 

Have been reading this thread for weeks and trying quite a few things but code 1638 just won't go away!

The error comes up in the DIC as, "Charge System Fault". It stays up for several seconds in the DIC, goes away and then comes back within a few seconds. Constantly cycling through the display. I have checked the codes and performed a reset countless times.

It happens immediately at startup and never diminishes regardless of speed, high RPM, low RPM, idling, lots of accessories turned on, nothing on but the engine, ambient temp high or low, whatever.

Tried so far:

• Had alternator bench tested at NAPA (good)
• Replaced Optima red top with new one. Fully charged.
• Inspected / cleaned grounds 101, 102, 104, 108, associated splice packs, engine ground strap and the splice pack under the dash in the passenger's footwell
• Cleaned battery terminals and torqued to 11 ft-lb
• Cleaned starter solenoid contacts, connectors, checked fusible links, etc.
• Checked continuity from L-terminal alternator connector (pin B) to PCM connector (Red/C2 15)
• Checked continuity from F-terminal alternator connector (pin C) to PCM connector (Red/C2 52)
• Checked continuity from alternator connector pin D to eyelet at starter solenoid (includes fusible link)
• Cleaned B+ terminal
• Tested voltage levels all over the place, per this thread - all good since new battery

The guy at NAPA took his time and ran the alternator test three times. Nothing negative to report.

The previous battery had a leak at the negative terminal. I went through the entire battery area, looking at the battery cables, all the wiring looms, the PCM (removed connectors), the TAC (removed connectors), the ground splice pack... everything. The battery tray was out, I looked from above and below, and took my time. Fortunately all looks fine.

My continuity tests showed that the F and L terminal wiring from the alternator connector back to the PCM connector is fine.

Honestly, every ground and connection anywhere in the car failed to show the slightest hint of corrosion, crud or schmutz.

I had the "Service Column Lock" error 6 months ago and installed the "Column Lock Simulator By-Pass Kit" and no problem since.

I have never had trouble with:

• Starting the car
• Reduced power
• Window or door lock controls
• Keyless entry
• ABS
• Traction Control
• HVAC
• "Service Engine"
• "Service Vehicle Soon"

I am now trying to prioritize what further efforts might have the best chance of solving the problem. I am considering:

• The "big three"
• Ignition switch repair instructions, per this site
• Testing the battery
• Re-testing the alternator
• ?????

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Can anyone summarize what the 1638 error description means, especially as it relates to what to look for next?





Thanks!

 

Dave

Have you tried to run a temporary jumper wire from the POSITIVE battery terminal to the BATT Terminal on the back of the alternator?? That will eliminate a lot of stuff that can have resistance and contribute to the issue.

Give that a try and see if it eliminates the issue. I strongly recommend installing a 30 amp fuse in the circuit. I use a 10 GA wire for testing.

Let me know if it improves the issue.

BC

 

My company was throwing out a lot of miscellaneous "stuff" a few years ago and I was able to come away with a huge roll of 8 gauge stranded copper wire. A ton of red and a fair amount of black.

With that much wire on hand I think I'll just go get some terminal post connector blocks and beef up both the ground to the frame and the positive to the alternator.

Stay tuned. Thanks.

 

Looking forward to the results -

I was also thinking that perhaps the regulator within the Alt perhaps was fluctuating once warm - just a thought.

Ignition switch as well -

But of course like Bill said to do, go for it because it is of course the least expensive

Keep us posted

Thanks,Matt (sorry for my late reply)

 

Well...

Installed 8 gauge wire from battery post to alternator with a 40 amp inline fuse, near the battery.

While at an auto parts store I noticed a negative battery post cable and yielded to the impulse to buy it. Connected it to the threaded hole on the back, right side of the block. Not totally sure why.

The car sat over night. Fired it up this morning. The garage was probably around 40 degrees. "Charge System Fault" appeared immediately. Checked codes right away and had the P1638 as well as U1000H and U1064H.

Went for a drive. "Charge System Fault" popped up every 5 to 10 seconds. I always leave oil temp in the DIC. Once I got near 150 degrees on oil temp, the faults disappeared and stayed off for the remainder of the ~15 minute drive.

Even after sitting for an hour the fault was still gone when I drove the car again. It appears that it has to sit overnight for whatever it is to cause the problem.

I really appreciate your input.