FYI !!...good info !!

 

Got it!! I performed a voltage drop test (as outlined in the picture) across all the components I could get to. When I got to the MAF I saw an 11V drop, and when I checked the TAC I saw 11.3V. I traced the ground for these and found they both went to G106 (my wife had been suspicious of this one..guess I should have listened ), the passenger side of the block where the negative batt cable connects. (Why..WhY is the ground for the MAF 6 feet away?? It runs right by 3 other grounds (101, 103, & 107) to get there!! )

I disconnected it and tested continuity between the eye loop and the ground wire going into the MAF: 1.1k ohms.

Upon closer inspection, my wife (who has been as obsessed with this as me) found that the small wire was broken inside! The sheathing was also very brittle as moving it around to inspect it caused it to break off completely! It seems the wires inside were barely touching across the break and the brittle sheathing had cracked enough to let them separate more.

To repair it, I clipped and stripped the wire about an inch from where it entered the harness, and attached another wire of slightly larger gauge to extend it. To the end of this I added a new eye loop and soldered all the connections (per Bill's adamant advice).

After reconnecting everything I held my breath, turned the switch on, and No Warning Lights!! The PCM shows in the DTC list with no current codes!

Thank you, guys! Seriously, thank you. You saved me an untold amount of money. If you're ever near Gulf Shores let me know because I owe you a round drinks.


Other things I ended up doing during this which, even though didn't correct the problem, I expect to pay off in the long run
- Bill Curlee's ignition switch rebuild. No resistance on terminals, but the contacts inside were burnt pretty bad and the springs felt weak.
- Replacing all splice packs with an eye loop (crimped and soldered).
- All existing eye loops for grounds (except for the one for batt. negative to G104 and the ground strap at G105, but they did get scrubbed and soldered) were replaced with new eye loops (crimped and soldered).
- All batt. positive eye loops were filed and wire brushed clean.
- Expanded my troubleshooting skills for wiring!


Thanks again for your help! No better Corvette forum than this one!

 

GREAT NEWS !!...so did you find the bad section of wiring just upstream of G106 ??...with a car that’s getting pretty old and wiring along with it you should get some back probes that plug into your DVOM leads and also some piercing probes...if you find yourself with an open in a wire you just pierce different sections of wire until you find a good section... then get some liquid electrical tape and brush it on that tiny little hole in the wire !!... some pics would be great to post...I’m pretty sure a shop would have installed a PCM or 2 in this case !!

 

Yep, it was about 4 inches from the eye loop, just above the starter. Going to look into getting back probes and piercing probes; I can see those getting used more and more as time goes on.

I grabbed some pictures of the broken wire and the soldering job to eliminate the s[lice packs but having trouble figuring out how to attach photos.

 

It’s pretty easy to attach pictures either from your phone or laptop...when you reply you will see “manage attachments” on the lower left then click on “photo library” if using your cellphone or “browse your device” if using a laptop and find the folder where the picture is located from the laptop or from your cellphones “photo library”....when you click on the pic it will load to 100% then in the upper right it will say “upload” click on that then submit your reply...pretty simple !!...I order most of my electrical stuff from AESwave.com and they sell quality equipment !!

 

All grounds. All cleaned or replaced only drove maybe 3 months owned 2yrs now socks where clogged, wipers shorted out and got water in the drivers floorboard only checked everything but the ingnition should I or look elsewhere. I've even cleaned starters connections

 

Hello I own a 99 corvette and for several months I keep receiving code P1860. I have done research to discover that this code is indicating an error with the Torque Converter Clutch Pulse Width Modulation Solenoid Valve. Since the error is indicating a short somewhere in the circuit, I have checked many engine grounds and electrical connections. Specifically G120 that the PCM should use to ground the solenoid but the code keeps returning. I have even taken the car to a transmission shop to replace the solenoid but the code keeps returning. Any help or knowledge in fixing this code would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Can you please post these photos? I think I may be having problems with the same ground. Thanks!

 

I have a 2003 50th anniversary Corvette. When I turn the ignition on I get shocks in operative maximum speed 80 miles an hour. Service traction control. Service ABS. If I tap on the side of the car Radio and climate control all of these lights and codes come off. I have clean the grounds and plugs inside of the engine. The car also has a new battery.

 

First off, thanks to Bill C. for his step-by-step directions on how to use the multimeter to track down a parasitic draw. I've been having battery drain issues recently and finally dug into it today. With the car "asleep" it was still pulling .086. Obviously, much higher than is to be desired. I started with the most common fuses. Driver's seat, then passenger seat and all of those checked out as okay. For some reason, I thought of the GM10-AUX I installed a long time ago. As soon as I disconnected that, the draw dropped to .03. I "woke" the car and then let it shut everything down again. When I checked it again the draw was .015.

I believe others have had a similar issue (probably posted somewhere earlier on in this thread), and I just wanted to add my experience for anyone who comes across this in the future.

 

YES!! those GM10-AUX I units had a wiring issue (it can be corrected) at the connector and never go to sleep or turn off and cause excessive current draw. Excellent troubleshooting.

Bill

 

Interesting! Thanks for the info. I did a quick search earlier this evening to see if anyone had fixed this issue but didn't come across anything.

 

I have a GM10-AUX unit in my convertible. Can you point me in the right direction to fix it? I have a parasitic draw that drains the battery after about 5 days.
Thanks!

 

I must have missed the part where you tell us how to get the plastic connector open without breaking it.
Otherwise great info.
thanks to all
Mick

 

How do you get the plastic connector open?

 

It is very hard to get it open! I had the same question when I decided to take mine apart for cleaning. It helps if you have three hands!! If memory serves me right, it has tabs on both sides that need to be released simultaneously, which is difficult. Here's as good an explanation as I can give you:

(I'll be using it myself to remove #100. I already cleaned #101, which turned out to be pretty clean. )
Good Luck!

 

Thanks!

 

I have a 2001 C5 convertible and am getting warning signal reduced power along with oil pressure gauge, gas gauge, volt gauge. reading O and temp gauge reading max?
I checked all the fuses and they are fine. I noticed in the trunk compartment 0n the drivers side had a silver box which has rust on it can you tell me what this box does? I did shake it around and knock some of the rust out of it and the gauges started working? Could this be the problem or maybe just a coincidence. Any help would be appreciated.

New member,
Sam

 

YES !!...the ESC Module (Electronic Suspension Control) either lost power or ground and now you may have a serial data network problem !!... you’ll see the water temp max out, fuel gauge shows empty and all your DIC warnings will be displayed and your power windows don’t work...remove the connectors and check for corrosion...if the problem returns remove those 2 connectors and see if the problem goes away !!..Oh, and BTW welcome to the Forum !!

 

Thank you...