Without testing during the period the car is having issues you'll be just guessing and I don't really think a new BCM will fix it but if that's up to you how you want to proceed...if you don't know your way around a DVOM I'd take it to at least a shop that specializes in Corvettes...if they have no clue we can troubleshoot it here on the Forum for them...LOL !!!
PS...I would at least check power and grounds at the BCM before replacing !!

 

​​​​​​​I bought a brand new Interstate battery, put it on the trickle charger to bring it up to full charge, and then installed it. Then I cleared all the codes and drove it for a good 30 minute drive. ABS and Traction Control lights never went off and it has these codes active:

PCM: P1571 and P1644
TCS: NO COMM.
BCM: B2527

 

I’d check power and especially grounds at the EBCM !!

 

possible gremlin fix? Seen this on other forums:

I know folks here have upgraded the battery cables and added extra engine to ground wires. But.... anyone try to install an extra heav duty wire from the alternator to the battery? Might help with low voltage/amp problems? or would it mess up the computer?

 

I still have a question on this problem yesterday we were driving and the light come on again lost gauges low fuel peg out oil,low fuel reduce engine power etc. car ran find we kept driving and everything come back on radio work and all gauges work all it said was traction control something. I shut the car off everything work find drove 100 miles and no problem now I 'am more confused then before HELP PLEASE thank you for your patience.

 

I am having problems with both the fobs for my 1998 Corvette.. Neither are working, Does anybody have any ideas as to why the fobs quite working?

 

First things first

Could be that you just need to RE-SYNC the FOB. Press and HOLD the LOCK & UNLOCK buttons at the same time until the horn toots. It will take 30-60 sec. See if that works and doesn't drop out.
If not,Go to one of the autoparts stores and use their FOB tester and see if your FOB is actually transmitting. If the FOB is not transmitting, sometimes there are cold solder joints on the FOB Board that can be reflowed..

Bill

 

Yes. I have done all of that. I am not sure how to identify the parts that need to be re-soedered.. Have done all the testing.

 

The ( Yes. I have done all of that.) doesn't tell us that the resync works or not OR that when you tested the FOB that it transmitted or not. AND, if you have a successful resync procedure, does it work for a while and then loose sync soon after.

Its ALL important info to get to the bottom of your issues.

What testing have you done? Do you receive any Tire Pressure Readings from the Tire Pressure Sensors?

Resoldering: You need to get a magnifying glass and a light and actually look at each solder joint for cold/cracked solder joints. If you don't know how to identify a bad solder or broken solder joint, see if you can find something on Google or You Tube.

 

Re synchronizing and/or Matching the transmitter does not work. Nothing is going from the Fob to the receiver in the door!!! I get no other messages from the DIC. I am leaning towards a problem in the Fob itself, but do not know what procedures to use to find the problem. I had a jewler look at the fob and he said he could see no problem. (But I do not think he knows what to look for!!!). I appreciate your assistance!!

 

Bill, Is there a way that I can get my phone number (or you get it to me) so that I can "talk" to you about my fob problems!! I am on Facebook! My cell is listed there.

 

i just bought a 2002 Z06 and am learning about the codes and what they may mean, especially as it related to the ECBM. I have C messages about traction control and ABS. There is a new battery in the car and I found a loose black ground wire by the battery. i suppose the dealer didn't put it back. Do you know if this should be grounded on the chassis near the bottom of the battery box? Thanks, Bill

 

I succeeded in locating a "brandy-new" fob!! I put the button battery intothe fob and it works great!!!! Now I want to know how to fix my other three fobs!! Contact me also at SDa4651343@aol.com



Thanks

 

Where is the TPMS Receiver located in a 2000 Convertible, and where is it grounded?
Second question, which is better a new Original equipment BCM or a re- manufactured unit? Rock Auto sells both but the re-man is less than half the price.
I posted a question in the C 5 Tech Section in regards to the BCM can anyone answer this for me? Thanks

 

The TPMS Module is located behind the trim panel on the drivers side that covers the rear wheel well area. It just aft of the rear speaker. Its a cigarette package size box with antenna bars that project out of the sides. Just use a DC Volt meter and see if you have power at the module connector (key ON/ Engine off) It should be a solid battery voltage reading!! Check the black ground wire (black) for continuity to a good known ground directly at the module connector. If there's good ground at the connector, you are good to go!. If you have good ground and good power, the module should provide the BCM all of the serial data for tire pressure and FOB data. What data are you missing?

As for the BCM, Why do you think you need a new one. What symptoms do you have that makes you think its bad? Do you know that it has MULTIPLE FUSES that all must be good to function properly? Please read and post ALL of your DTCs so we can guide you to success. If there are TONS of old DTCs clear them and start fresh. Read them using the built in DTC reader ONLY or a GM Tech 2.

Bill

 

Bill Curlee: first off Thanks for responding, going thru all the past inquireses your name comes up a lot.
As for my problem I have checked 3 fuses all are in good condition. The Message that comes up on the DIC states "Check your tire pressure system", I hit the Reset button on the DIC, reset this and check the tire pressure reading on the DIC and get the wheel identifiers but no pressure reading, when this first occurred I had reading for 1 wheel. At this point I found the FOB is no longer responsive. The first time this occurred when I got home I went thru the FOB reset procedure and was successful and everything including tire pressures on the DIC worked. The next time this occurred ( this seems to only happen after driving 40 or so highway miles, city driving all is normal), when I got home went thru the FOB reset and was not successful. I then checked the 3 fuses in the foot well and all were good, I then was successful in resetting the FOB and all has been fine since then.
As for the BCM I only think that because the only thing I could find that the FOB and Tire Pressure Readings was the BCM, that is why I enquired as to how do you know your BCM is going bad.
For the DTC's I do not know how to retrieve them and I do not have a Tech 2 tool

 

CALL ME!! PM Sent.

 

Bill Curlee: Thanks for your assistance.


Well I changed the 4 TPMS Sending Units (the originals where still in the wheels) programmed them and now all components seem to be talking to each other. I have not had a repeat of the problem since.

 

Hi all,

From the look and sound of it, it looks like I'm having some of these ground wiring issues, would you all agree? C5 Z06 - Not Starting

My car is currently 500 miles away from me and I planned on driving it to where I relocated but as you can see, that isn't possible now because my car won't start up.

- battery is a few years old and sits on a trickle charger
- battery meter on dash shows 12v
- confirmed car does not have low fuel (I went ahead and dumped a few gallons in the other day to be sure)

I'm having a family member check the DIC codes for me but I wanted to post this while I had some time off from work. Any help to diagnose and fix this is greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time in advance. I will write back when I get the codes if any.

 

Is this a “cranking no start” or a no start (no crank) ???...makes a BIG difference in diagnosing !!!!!