IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFORMATION (Long!)
I also had the fuel gage to zero gremlin - several mechanics said just change it out......2 cans of techtron - issue solved

Thanks guys - you make owning this car even more enjoyable
My 98 coupe would get the infamous "REDUCED ENGINE POWER", "TRACTION CONTROL FAILURE" and a host of random failure codes. After many, many hours of troubleshooting, replacing the BCM and TAC module, I solved most of the driveability issues. Still getting the random DTC failure codes, I thought that I may be having ground issues. Back in June I cleaned ALL of the chassis grounds and the car virtually stopped throwing the "RANDOM" DTC failure codes. Just moving the wires in the chassis ground connector was enough to change the indications and make the issues stop happening.
I had a chance to speak with some GM C5 Trouble Desk Engineers when I went to Bowling Green KY in April and they pointed out that MANY of the C5 electrical issues can be directly linked to chassis ground problems. The engineer even went as far as to recommending that I chop off the factory under hood chassis ground connectors and combine all of the wires into a single ground lug. Not wanting to just LOP off the factory connector, I took a chance and disassembled one of the ground plug connectors and to my surprise it was indeed full of corroded connections.
I strongly recommend that any C5 owner that has had or who are having electrical issues, examine and clean the chassis ground connectors. This may save you from needlessly replacing expensive electronics modules. Each ground connector can be disassembled and cleaned in about 20 min.
Just cleaning the metal ground connection between the chassis and the plug is only a band aid solution. Now that I look back, when I cleaned my chassis grounds and initially solved my issues, I believe that when the connector is being removed to clean the connection between chassis and the connector, just the wires being moved inside the plug is what changed the indications and made everything work better.
Disassembly of the chassis ground plug and cleaning the contacts inside the connector is the correct method of solving the issue!
I took some pictures of the under hood chassis ground connector and the corrosion that was in it. I cleaned the two connections on the frame rails and the left one was significantly corroded! Taking it apart and cleaning it is a very straight forward procedure and I believe that if you follow this recommendation, you will be on the way to solving the many of the electrical issues.
Here are some detailed pictures of the ground connector and the corrosion that was found inside it!
Picture of under hood Chassis Ground connector G-101

Corrosion inside connector! (You ain't seen nothing yet!)
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[/IMG] Next three photos are of the corrosion found on the connector terminals!
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[/IMG] Self tapping ground screw and star washer. This is what you will need if the ground stud breaks off during removal!
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[/IMG] [IMG][IMG]Here are where the chassis ground points are on a C5:



PLEASE let me know if you have any questions. NOTE! All of the pictures that I have of C5 Grounds have been posted on or in this post.
Bill Curlee
updated 02 March 06
BTW you wouldn't happen to have the part numbers for both the make and female connectors, and where they can be had, would you? :-)
Last edited by NavyGunner1980; May 23, 2016 at 08:18 PM.
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Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Or anyone else who happens to have these answers.
Thank you very much for all of your time spent and dedication helping others.
Last edited by ForceFedC5; Oct 12, 2016 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Located a few more..





Bill
Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Or anyone else who happens to have these answers.
Thank you very much for all of your time spent and dedication helping others.





1. Wetted BCM due to HVAC Air Box condensation draining into the passengers foot well because the air box drain is clogged.
OR
2. The LEFT and or RIGHT Door power plug has damaged /spread apart female pins and is making POOR CONTACT with the male pins thus causing the LEFT and or RIGHT door control module to turn ON & OFF, ON & OFF repeatedly. This condition causes the effected modules to corrupt the serial data buss. When that happen, you SEE it just as you are in the IPC.
SO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I would start investigating those two things.
Bill
1. Wetted BCM due to HVAC Air Box condensation draining into the passengers foot well because the air box drain is clogged.
OR
2. The LEFT and or RIGHT Door power plug has damaged /spread apart female pins and is making POOR CONTACT with the male pins thus causing the LEFT and or RIGHT door control module to turn ON & OFF, ON & OFF repeatedly. This condition causes the effected modules to corrupt the serial data buss. When that happen, you SEE it just as you are in the IPC.
SO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I would start investigating those two things.
Bill
I recently started having misfires after prolonged exposure of the car to rain. We had a ffew major storms come thru and the car was parked outside. I have a garage I can put the car in over the winter starting this weekend but need to find the source of the misfires. Once the car is warmed up, the misfire issue seems to improve alot but not 100%.
Do you think this ground issue could be the culprit. If so, can you steer me to the grounds that would most likely contribute. Probably mainly in the engine compartment area but any advice would help.
Cheers
Paul
P.S - I ordered new plug wires on spec and will change the plugs as well when I get the wires.












