Hi Bill,
I am having the same problem on my 03. It did this a year ago the dash goes crazy windows, mirrors dont work and I was able to fix it by playing with the connections in the drivers door. Well now its back, I can move a wire in one of the connections to get everything working on the drivers side but cant get the passenger side working. Can you help ?
Thanks Dino

 

OK but which one do I zero in on the one with 6 connectors or 8 connectors, is everything run by the two connector blocks on the drivers side door
Thanks Dino

 

I'm still waiting to find time to this myself.

 

this one

 

OK Thanks will give it a try

Dino

 

Bill,

Stupid question, I pulled the accordian tube from the door but could not easily find the connection. Should it just pull out from the door once the tubing is removed or do you have to remove the door panel?

Thanks,

Rick

 

Regarding the two big ground connectors in the original post (by the hood struts).

[QUOTE=leaftye;1549120576]Other notes: Those ground connectors were a serious PITA for me to take apart.....QUOTE]

Yeah.... I'm either too scared of breaking the connector or too stupid to figure out how it comes apart! They come apart how?

OK NEVERMIND... I unbolted the connector and then I could see that there's a little locking edge on BOTH sides!!

 

Rick

The connectors are NOT in the door.. There in the DOOR FRAME (A Pillar) You have to take the accordion tube off both the door and door frame.


BC

 

I searched this thread and I'm sorry in advance if I missed it, but I haven't found my problem on here.

Just recently all of my lights... dash lights, tail lights, DRL's all with the exception of the headlights will start flickering like crazy. I hear a fast "ticking" noise from the fuse box under the glovebox and felt which relay was ticking, but it tested just fine. When I turn the signal to turn right the lights seem to flicker simultaneously with the clicking of the turn signal, and the left turn signal works perfectly fine but the flickering is still going fast. At night when the headlights are on, the green lit arrow on the dash for the right signal stays on. When I signal right it flashes once then stops. It won't continue to flash like normal. Also when I lock the car with the FOB the panic horn goes off, so I have to lock it manually. The weird thing is, the problem doesn't happen all the time, but often enough that it's getting on my nerves. I was just wondering if anyone has been through this or knows how abouts I should proceed. Also if you might know what it could be and give me an estimate on how long it would take to fix the problem, I'd appreciate that as well. Thanks in advance for any help! It's greatly appreciated.

 

I have been having various electrical problems in my 2000 c5. I just replaced the starter, which I'm thinking now could have been just a bad ground.
I just cleaned the 2 connectors behind the headlights that connect directly to the frame, the one right in front of the battery and the one in the passenger floorboard (worst one). They were very dirty and needed the paint scraped off under neath.
Now the main problem is fixed, the radio and interior lights shut off when I close the door. Also the car idles smoother and the AC now blows cold on the passenger side.
All I need now if for the keyfob to work again.

 

Thanks. I have checked one side and will be checking the other. No conclusive results one way or another at this time.

Rick

 

hi my name is kirk and i bought a 99 corvette and i hit a bump and all my dash lights came on. can u tell me how to get them off or wat the problem is if so can u reply and tell me what to do

 

i have a 99 corvette i was driving and hit a bump and all the dash warning lights came on can u tell me how to get them of or how to fix the problem

 

99 corvette i hit a bump and all the dash light came on can u tell me how to get them off or how to fix the problem

 

would a ground make the car nostart

 

WOW!! Thats a loaded question!!


There are 13+ grounds on the C5. Some will,, some wont.

What do you call NO START???? Wont Crank,, Cranks but wont run????????????

What DTCs are you seeing????

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

I have A code in the car computer A6-SCM what dose that means

 

WELL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,WHAT Code is it????????? Read and post it..



BC

 

Bill,
I am new to this forum stuff. Dad was with GM when I was born in 1953 and drilled holes in the floors to drain the rain. I grew up working on cars and a few Vettes until 1970 when the service took me. These new ones are drivers, and not fixers like I was used to. I just posted my first post(Towed home/ 17 codes)then I found this post of yours, and printed it. Thanks alot for the help' I will check all grounds first thing. Tired of trucks.

 

Do you know where the grounds are for the HUD?

Thanks