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First, clean all key resistor chips with alcohol. Then try your spare key (does it have a fob?). Then try replacing the main fob battery and re-try with the key that comes with it. No joke, it could be as stupid as that. Those are super cheap go-to ideas. And check the driver side rear wheel well chassis ground, you can see it if you look in closely by the tire. That's an important gorund, the fob ground if I recall one of the posts on this thread.
That ground in my car turned out to be a crusty mess. Mechanic took apart, cleaned, back nice and fresh. Can't say my no-start issues we're fixed by doing that, because he cleaned up and re-assembled several other crusty ground locations and connectors that might have been a cause also.
But, just thought I'd offer up a couple of simple suggestions having recently gone thru no-start mayhem.
I am asking a slightly different question. Not every one of the ground connections are "connectors" that you have to take apart and clean out. Some are just a single wire or two attached to a lug to the frame. I am trying to find out how many are there of the "connectors" for multiple ground wires that you take apart, clean, and use dielectric grease on before putting plugging them back together. There are one each near the headlights, but I am wondering where there are other "connectors" located for multiple ground wires, not the single lug connections. Or are the two near the headlights the only ones?
There are FOUR ground connectors inside the cabin. By each seat belt retractor and at the base of each door A pillar ( you have to remove the sill plate cover to see them) The rest are eyelets. The ones inside the cabin are rarely an issue unless you have a very wet interior.
Bill, thanks a TON for compiling & organizing all of this awesome info. It's been immensely helpful as I look to get my C5Z back on the road after a very long hiatus.
I have to say, Bill Curlee saved my car and my wallet!
He was gracious to call me the other night, and we went through a few things and he then simply said "It's your ignition switch."
I'm like "How can that be, the car only has 19,000 miles on it?"
But I took his advice, and removed the switch. I ordered a new switch, but then figured, I may as well take this apart and see whats what... So I did, and then I saw the burned areas. Killing time, I cleaned it all up with fine grit wet sandpaper, put it back together, and plugged in. And to my amazement, the car immediately started and sprang to life! Everything's working, just like a new car.
A BIG thanks to Bill on this! I'd bet I would have been into the dealer for a couple thousand $$ not to mention them messing up my nice interior, and dash...
2004 z06
went to start her up after winter hibernation cranked it for a few seconds first to get oil pressure up before starting
and then went to start it fired right away but was short lived started to shudder and sputter and died wont start now cranks no prob
but wont fire
odes are as folows
P0120
p0220
p0300
p1516
checked all fuses inside and out
scaner shows 14% throttle at what should be idle and momentary 100% at wot
i can hear the throttle open and close
removed tps checked for debris all clean
checked battery
not sure where to go from hear
????????
2004 z06
went to start her up after winter hibernation cranked it for a few seconds first to get oil pressure up before starting
and then went to start it fired right away but was short lived started to shudder and sputter and died wont start now cranks no prob
but wont fire
odes are as folows
P0120
p0220
p0300
p1516
checked all fuses inside and out
scaner shows 14% throttle at what should be idle and momentary 100% at wot
i can hear the throttle open and close
removed tps checked for debris all clean
checked battery
not sure where to go from hear
????????
Can your start a NEW thread on this in the TECH section...I didn't even see this !!
2004 z06
went to start her up after winter hibernation cranked it for a few seconds first to get oil pressure up before starting
and then went to start it fired right away but was short lived started to shudder and sputter and died wont start now cranks no prob
but wont fire
odes are as folows
P0120
p0220
p0300
p1516
checked all fuses inside and out
scaner shows 14% throttle at what should be idle and momentary 100% at wot
i can hear the throttle open and close
removed tps checked for debris all clean
checked battery
not sure where to go from hear
????????
Looks like you have some TPS issues there plus a random misfire...are they current or history...great you have a scan tool !!...these are what my TPS voltages and % at idle...my TPS was 4% at idle...let me know what the voltages are...maybe sensor ground or 5 volt ref. voltage issues !!...does your scan tool show misfire counters ??...check generic OBD2 (mode 6) if you don't see misfires on the enhanced side...don't know what kind of scan tool you have ??
EDIT: PCM fuse 16 also feeds Ignition Relay 42 which feeds injectors,and coils...the LOAD side of ignition relay 42 feeds Throttle Control fuse #17...connect your voltmeter red lead to battery positive and the black lead to one of the test points on Fuse 16...crank engine and read the voltage drop...should be around .01 to .02...now try it on fuse 17...you should see the same voltage...I would even swap out ignition relay 42 with another in the fusebox !!
EDIT:
so far these are my findings like before checked all fuses swapped relays no difference haven't checked voltages yet
but i now know i have no fuel pressure worst case scenario fuel pump but have to check all grounds and wiring before jumping to conclusions
also swapped tps
a work in progress
will keep posting as i make findings
thank you for input
so far these are my findings like before checked all fuses swapped relays no difference haven't checked voltages yet
but i now know i have no fuel pressure worst case scenario fuel pump but have to check all grounds and wiring before jumping to conclusions
also swapped tps
a work in progress
will keep posting as i make findings
thank you for input
I did a YouTube video a while back on how to check the fuel pump relay circuit...I'll post it here and if the fuel pump is not priming for 2 seconds when the key is turned on this might help !!...I see you're a "LOAD"...what aircraft ??
yes sir il be doing some electrical forensics 2day lol I know i have power at the fuse box because my scavenge pump kicks in for the 2 secontd prime so ill have go from there to the pump and see
yes sir il be doing some electrical forensics 2day lol I know i have power at the fuse box because my scavenge pump kicks in for the 2 secontd prime so ill have go from there to the pump and see
SCAVENGE PUMP??? Please explain what you are referring to.
With the P-0120 & P-0220 DTCs you really need to get those sorted out before you worry about other things. If you have any throttle position circuit issues the PCM will either set reduced engine power or run like crap like you are seeing. If you hear the fuel pump prime, you most likely have a good pump and power to the pump. Open the fuel cap and have someone turn the key on. It will be much easier to hear the pump run that way.
Check the Throttle Position Sensor connector female pins, wiring to the connector, harness and the connector male pins. You can check the sensor resistance but its best to use a scope. If you have a scanner with live data capability you should be able to see phase A & B voltage and or angle. They should be 180 degs out from each other. Like 4.xx VDC & 1.xx VDC.