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Your problem seems like the one that I had with my EBTCM. The micro processor was bad. I will research the issue more later tonight but your probably going to need to buy a new module. Better start applying for a LOAN now!!! Its around $700. You can install it your self. It is NOT difficult of time consuming!
Bill
Before you get too deep into replacement parts,, I would remove the EBTCM from the BPMV and see if there is anything obvious in or on the module. When I got GM to replace it, i asked for it back and they gave it to me. The solder job on at least six terminals looked like a third grader soldered it!!!
I re soldered the poor solder joints but have yet to reinstall it to see if that really was the issue.
If I were you, I would remove the module, inspect all of the plugs, connectors and see if you can find something that stands out as out of the ordinary. I did that and found nothing which proved even more that the module it self was causing the really weird symptoms. Yep, the new module cleared it up. Yours seems to mess up in damp weather. All it's going to cost you is a little time!
Give it a try and let us know what you find or if it helps.
Removal and reinstallation of the EBTCM is NOT difficult. You simply, disconnect the battery, remove one plactic safety tab, two connectors and remove four torx screws, and bang,, it out. Re-assembly is just as easy. There will bo ZERO hydraulic fluid, no programming or special procedures or toold to worry about.
On each wheel hub, thee is a pig tail connector;
REAR WHEEL HUB
FRONT WHEEL HUB:
Sensor top hat removed:(only to show yu what is inside the hub sensor!)
On the front sensor there is a short 18" jumper harness that connects the hub to the main harness.
Here is a picture of a bad and good female pin in the main harness wheel speed sensor connector:
Cant answer that last question about pulling the fuse but, I would guess that it shouldnt.
Bill, I pulled fuse #52 and it does not go into limp mode. The random ABS Activation has also stopped. I will check all the connections I can.
I can't seem to install my GM Manual on CD on my newer PC becasue of errors on Disk 1. That's weird because it worked fine on the PC I had before. I'll have to try to track one down. I wanted to get a good a good pick of the EBTCM before I started messing with it.
Thanks again for your help. You have been a great help to me and others with this thread.
Just got back from the best A/C guy in the area. After 3 hours my blinking A/C light problem turned out to be a shorted 34 relay. It goes back to the PCM which needs to be replaced. Thought anyone with the same problem would like to know, thats the solution at least for me anyway. Thanks Bill as always for your help, at least my grounds are clean.
From: Corona CA - "An Armed Society is a Polite Scociety"
Originally Posted by sxe60
Bill, I'm just curious. Do you drive the Vette in winter on salted roads? Also, I assume Gales Ferry is near water. That may accelerate the problem. My 2 cents.
FYI, I'm having the exact same issues with my 98 and it's a So Cal car now but it was purchased at Henna Chevrolet in Austin. It has never seen snow or salt.
Last edited by c5Cruiser; Apr 20, 2006 at 04:11 PM.
Crimped connections are a bad day looking for a place to happen
Every GM car I had that was made between about 1987 and 1992 had HORRIBLE alternator service life problems. It got SO bad with my '91 coupe that I was literally replacing the alternator once a month or more frequently. I was SO good at doing it that I could swap them out in under 12 minutes, hood up to hood down. I eventually tired of that and let my engineering brain wander. The output terminal from the alternator to the battery was crimped. It wasn't corroded, but it was heavily oxidized due to high temperature, so the problem fed on itself. I spliced in a section of 19 conductor 8 gauge wire and SOLDERED the terminal instead of crimping it this time. The alternator hasn't failed in over two years.
I said all that to say this - clean the terminal or replace the terminal, but solder it rather than relying on the crimped connection. The crimp is a guaranteed recipe for a problem.
This morning I had the "Service ABS" and "Service Traction Control" come on along with lights dimming and all gauges pegging. This is the first time it happened. Most mornings, I see the active handling warming up message. This is on a 01 Z06 (in Florida). Should I check grounds or battery cables, or ?
That sounds like a battery issue. Look for a loose/dirty/corroded battery connection. Remember,,It's critical on a C5 to have a good tight battery connection. It can look tight but the connection could be compromised. It takes 11 ft/lbs to cause the connection to snug up properly. With a 5" long 5/16" wrench, thats hand hurting torque. Make sure that the terminals are clean and tight and if that doesn't fix it, let us know.
Intake Air Temp Sensor High Voltage error message on DIC
Intake Air Temp Sensor High Voltage error message on DIC
I got this error message. Replaced Intake Air Temp sensor but the computer is still get wrong temp info. Had a tech look at it. Under acceleration the intake air temp went from 100 degrees (which was about right) to 64 to -15.
What else can I check to find what is causing this?
There is a remote possibly that you have a wiring harness problem. On some C5's the wiring harness was a little short. Take a look at the area at the back of the engine where it comes up from the bell housing area. It will come up and it makes a 90 degree turn and shoots forward along the drivers side of the engine. The area where it bend around that bracket at the rear of the manifold can cut the harness and short some wires.. The other possibly is the female pins in the plug that plugs into the sensor is bad.
There is a remote possibly that you have a wiring harness problem. On some C5's the wiring harness was a little short. Take a look at the area at the back of the engine where it comes up from the bell housing area. It will come up and it makes a 90 degree turn and shoots forward along the drivers side of the engine. The area where it bend around that bracket at the rear of the manifold can cut the harness and short some wires.. The other possibly is the female pins in the plug that plugs into the sensor is bad.
BC
Thanks Bill,
Do you know if that plug w/ the female pins and the wire is something I buy seperate or is it part of the entire wire harness?
If you take the plug to the dealer, they can match it up and order you one. Autozone and advance auto have the same GM plug/connector book and can order it too!!
i have a big draw,it will eat up my optima battery in about 24 hours or less,the battery is a month old and when i first put it in it sat like 3 days without a problem starting,i will check the grounds but i don't think that's the problem,anyone else have battery drain problems?