No, all the codes are important...especially in cases like this...If the BCM totally crashes you should not be able to exit the car or really do anything. The first codes are useful, current codes are the most useful...


B2515
This sets when the state of the column lock is not correct, since your column didn't lock it is not surprizing to see this

B0005
This sets when the cc computer gets a request from the BCM to lock, but does not detect the reverse switch being closed, it has to occur three times to set

U1096
This is a communication lost between the module it set in and the instrument cluster, you need to know what module these codes set in

A brief outline of the shutdown process:

You push the rocker switch to off

The engine turns off

The FOB computer verfies the fob is still present, if not you get the off
or run DIC message

If the FOB is detected, the BCM checks for one of the two reverse switches, if it is not closed the shift to reverse message displays, if it is detected the clustor and DIC go blank and it sends a message to the CC to lock the column

The CC attempts to lock the column, checking the second reverse switch, if that switch is closed the column locks and everything is good, if not, the column does not lock and on the third occurance, you see the message you've been seeing.

From what you said above, I would guess we could narrow it down to something having to do with the second reverse swich, if the cc never got the command to lock, B0005 should not have set. I would also expect to see some U1064 codes in modules. The other codes could be usefull, especially if they are U codes. The BC does supply the power for the second reverse switch, so that is part of the circuit as well.

When you say that exit recall does not function, do you mean when you push the exit button on the door? I think that the parking brake has to be applied for that, but you said it was applied, both that function and the cc use the same communication line, a problem on that line would take the whole line down, but then I wouldn't think you'd see the B0005 code and would see a ton of U codes in the car...

I hope this helps, the other codes would be very useful, since the BCM should not crash if there is just a problem with the reverse switch, cc, or column lock....

 

So you are saying that there must be 3 failures to lock before the B2515 is thrown?

Exit Recall is the process that returns the seat and telescoping column positions pre-programmed for when the drivers door opens(provided the driver first engaged their pre-programmed driving position as required by the MN6)

The BCM crashing seems to be a different event then the normal "Service Column Lock" although, it may have it's roots in the B2515 code. When the BCM event occurs the codes thrown point to just about all the electrical systems the user interfaces with to include the brake lights, hatch release etc etc.

Anyway, Monday's event threw a B2515; however, the Service Tech offered no other codes to me. Apparently, GM is really pressuring the guy to fix this car, after I contacted GM Headquarters about an extended warranty on the electrical system, that when the car fails to start again, he will bring the scanner to where ever the car is to scan the system. I personally doubt this will produce anything meanful, but I am willing to give it a try. The down side of this is that road trips are kinda not in the cards for Black Beauty-there again since the car is so undependable, I have put off a planned trip to the Tail of the Dragon and most one day trips the wife and I wanted to do this spring.

 

You get the maximum award for patience..............I'd be right out of my mind at this point and definitely waving that "lemmon flag!"

 

No, on the patience part, but this IS the car I have been looking for since I knew what a sports car really was, and like with the spouse, you hang in there as long as possible during the bad times.

Then there are the Florida Lemon Law requirements- 3 sessions with the service department or 15 continuous days and being unsuccessfully serviced. Then once you notify GM and the State Attorney General, GM gets one more attempt to fix the car. Then if the manufacturer wants to contest, then you have to go in to arbitration. If they don't contest, then you decide whether you want a replacement or a "refund." You can be charged fair usage (mileage) at the rate of "Price of the Car times the actual mileage divided by 120,000"

 

According to the manual, the B0005 code takes 3 consecutive occurances and the B2515 code takes 5 occurances, this may be why your code free for a week at a time. The difference between these 2 is that the B0005 code has to do with the reverse switch input to the column computer and the B2515 has to do with the state of the column. B2515 will set if the column's feedback circuit is not what it is supposed to be, it could be set if you disconnect the battery while the column is unlocked and then reconnect it, because the car is off the column computer expects the column to be locked.

The circuits I would check are column lock circuits and the reverse signal to the column computer.

 

Pay attention to if the column is locking and unlocking as it should be at each ignition cycle....

 

Sounds like a stuck starter. It will happen again. Cars don't heal themselves.

 

That's what tipped me off last Monday that the car was going to error out again. Thank you for your help, you made it very easy to understand many of the issues I having with the car!

 

I hope so, intermittant electrical problems are the hardest to work on. I wouldn't feel confident in changing any parts on your car as this point, but if I had to guess I would pin it on the column computer assuming your dealer is certain all the wiring is good.

 

I too have "no fob detected" from time to time, but the fob is in my pocket. All I heard was a few "clicks" when I pushed the start button. The last time I waited a minute, took the fob out of my pocket and tried again and then it magically started. I did have two cell phones sitting in the cup holder, which I don't normally do. Can this be the reason??It's not a good feeling, being stranded. I noticed if it still does not detect the fob , you can place it in the slot inside the glove box and it will start. Does anyone else have this problem??

 

Yea, I really hate electrical problems-I would rather have the pully issue-at least even Ray Charles can find that problem!

Well, I have been trying to have the car error out so the Service Rep can come out and scan, but with no success! It is madening! Right now I am ready for them to start replacing everything so I can get this crap over with-thought it was going to error out this morning as the both mirrors were pointed downward and the seats automatically (this is a MN6 so this can't happen by itself) moved back to their furtherest point when I opened the car door to drive to work. But, nix no error!


spectra6.0 Well that is a different error, but don't tied up in wonerdering if its' cell phones & keys-or that a special ritual that needs to be performed for it to work, because the problem is a true random error that some C6's have and when the cause is finally tracked down it will be fixed.

 

my first guess would be that you didnt have the clutch to the floor all the way. ive done this a couple times before, thinking i had the clutch all the way down, but didnt. i lifted my foot from the clutch and re-pressed it to the floor, as far as it could go, and the car started with no problem.

that could be the only logical reason i have for you, although it may not be right

 

The clicking sound your hearing is most like the FOB detector computer, it is behind the air vents in the center, it is checking for the presence of a FOB.

In all the messing around that I've done, the only thing that I have found to interfere was my truck key FOB, a 2001 Silverado. I have tried it with other Corvettes and it always does it, it has to be right next to my FOB. If you have any other FOBs, they may be your cause or some other electronic device.

I have tried all my friends cell phones and nextels and have never cause any interference. Even with 7-8 surrounding my FOB like a ball.

It should be noted that if your FOB is in the vehicle the door may not unlock, when your enter the car it checks for the FOB outside the car.

Also, the car is not supposed to start if the FOB is not in the car, it works well on my car. If I dangle the keys outside the window it will not state and as soon as I bring them in it does start, I'm impressed with how smart it is.

 

I've been investigating this more since I found out my wife had the problem, and I've experienced it a few times myself. So far, every time, without exception, we thought we had the clutch all the way to the floor but it wasn't. Simply pushing down a little more on the clutch allowed the car to start.

 

[QUOTE=OttoNP]The clicking sound your hearing is most like the FOB detector computer, it is behind the air vents in the center, it is checking for the presence of a FOB.

That's exactly where the clicking is coming from.

 

What do you think is the key to this problem?

 

Well a whole week and weekend went by with no starting failures-figures when you want it to go boom it behaves and no boom!

 

I spoke too soon, upon leaving work this evening I get into the car and boom "Service Column Lock" error presents itself along with a no start. I didn't attempt to get it to start per Service Rep and now I am sitting around waiting for the Service Rep to show so he can scan the car to see what caused the error. It is going to be a long evening!

 

Did they find anything during the scan?

 

Nope, and all the settings were correct as far as I could see with the Tech 2, with the error being BU2515 again, but several things were established by the drill, 1st and most importantly that this was not a user error situation, 2nd that clearing the codes doesn't make the car start, and 3rd it appears to be a computer/transmitter problem. The Service Rep couldn't get the car started, dispite trying all kinds of Hokey Pokey that we have all tried. Finally, he asked me to start the car, so I placed the FOB next to the shifter, close to the dash as possible, just as I did the last time, and the car started right up. The down side of this, is of course, that it appears to go away for a few days (7 days seems to be my average) only to reappear-if it was a low voltage thing with the FOB you would think every time or at least most times.

One strange thing occured that I didn't think about until I got home was that I had both FOB's togather on a single key chain and that FOB 2 took over, but not enough to allow the car to start. FOB 1 should have taken control per the owners manual, if both FOB's are present. At any rate, either the FOB didn't pass all that it was suppose to pass or the car did not receive all the FOB's transmission-as to which is the smoking gun remains unclear with the Service Rep to contact BG this morning.