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Solution to my Parking Problem

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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 05:10 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by markr01000
My thought exactly.
I wouldn't be cutting structural trusses like that.
Just my 2¢
I would not either.
That is why I hired a licensed contrator.
Rest assured it is structually sound!
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by vettnut69
Great idea and job... Have to ask though are they 2X10's or 12's you used for bracing also did you run them to the your walls or do they rest on other truss??? Sorry for being a bit nosey but really am impressed with this idea... I have ten foot walls but would like to give myself little more room...
2x12's They rest across the adjacent trusses. He used proper steel hangers to attach the cut trusses to the 2x12's.
There is other bracing involved with 2x4's and 2x10's plus the box is lined top and sides with 3/4" birch plywood which also adds structual strength.
If I get a chance I will peel back the insulation and snap a few shots of the bracing.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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I know a guy that did the same thing....looks great!

I am wanting to add a 4 post lift to my garage......anyone know a place of info on how to raise the track taller than 7'? I have a 10' ceiling so I have room to raise the door up.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:06 PM
  #44  
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very nice job

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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Django
Now they all fit in the garage!
















why would you want to own BOTH a Vette and Stang?
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 08:06 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by RRVettes
Very creative solution. Nice job.

And very nicely finished inside of the cut out too.........great thinking!!
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 08:22 PM
  #47  
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Sell the Ford and add on to the garage!
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 08:58 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Django
Yes it is electric/hydraulic.
The lift has only been setup for a few hours.
It seems to go up in about 40 or so seconds and down a little quicker.
I still need to tweek the position of the lift a bit more before I bolt it to the floor.
Read the instructions that came with the lift. They normally don't need to be bolted to the floor. You can't just drill 4 holes in the 3" or 4" thick floor cement as this will actually make it weaker. You need to cut out the floor to a big footprint and fill it pretty deep with cement in four places.

If you use your lift a lot it will "creep" slightly as you drive cars on and off. I marked around the steel pads on the floor so I can see any potential movement.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 10:04 PM
  #49  
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That would be cool for changing the oil also.
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 10:10 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Bobz08C6
Read the instructions that came with the lift. They normally don't need to be bolted to the floor. You can't just drill 4 holes in the 3" or 4" thick floor cement as this will actually make it weaker. You need to cut out the floor to a big footprint and fill it pretty deep with cement in four places.

If you use your lift a lot it will "creep" slightly as you drive cars on and off. I marked around the steel pads on the floor so I can see any potential movement.
Thanks!
After using it for a few days I can see it is very stable. No need to bolt it to the floor.
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #51  
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Where is the ladder for you to get down? Just joking, that is a great idea gonna show it to the wife and see if I can't do the same. Her school bus(Yukon XL) takes up all the room.
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 06:34 AM
  #52  
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very nice job,corvette always comes out on top
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #53  
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Do you have marks where to stop on the rails? Stopping it short may ruin the roof it seems...
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 02:38 PM
  #54  
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contacting a contractor is a no no- should have had a letter and drawing from truss manufacturer. It is illegal in most states to cut trusses in any manner without engineering from truss people. This will come into play usually when a "scuttle hole" was required to gain access into a ceiling area and was left out in the planning. Most good building inspectors will then make you get the engineering letter and drawing for the solution.

That said-- great job and solution to the problem!
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 05:11 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by waldow
contacting a contractor is a no no- should have had a letter and drawing from truss manufacturer. It is illegal in most states to cut trusses in any manner without engineering from truss people. This will come into play usually when a "scuttle hole" was required to gain access into a ceiling area and was left out in the planning. Most good building inspectors will then make you get the engineering letter and drawing for the solution.

That said-- great job and solution to the problem!
Truss mfr??? You mean the home builder? I'm confused. I'm sure there are garages and homes built with pre-fabricated trusses, but none that I've seen built in any neighborhood I've lived in.
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #56  
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I went from this

To this with a similar remedy

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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #57  
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Lifts are CL
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #58  
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great job!!!!!!!!!!!
They work great, most come with plastic panels that fit in the groove between the runners
and keep oil and or dirt from the cars in bottom bunk.
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by jschindler
Truss mfr??? You mean the home builder? I'm confused. I'm sure there are garages and homes built with pre-fabricated trusses, but none that I've seen built in any neighborhood I've lived in.
Trusses can be manufactured and brought to the job and in most cases are a less expensive choice. Of course you can "stick build" anything on the job, but normally, when you see the gang nail plates (as you see on his pics) on the trusses- they are factory made and not built on the job. I have stick built everything including trusses on million $+ homes and I have used pre-fab trusses on million $+ homes. Architectural choice for any number of reasons-- cost, length of span, ect and I have used combos of stick and pre-fab trusses on any number of homes

Last edited by waldow; Nov 6, 2008 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by waldow
Trusses can be manufactured and brought to the job and in most cases are a less expensive choice. Of course you can "stick build" anything on the job, but normally, when you see the gang nail plates (as you see on his pics) on the trusses- they are factory made and not built on the job. I have stick built everything including trusses on million $+ homes and I have used pre-fab trusses on million $+ homes. Architectural choice for any number of reasons-- cost, length of span, ect and I have used combos of stick and pre-fab trusses on any number of homes
I understand that they can be, but I've never seen them brought in to any neighborhood I've lived in - they have all been stick built. As far as the gang nail plates, we see some of that here in Houston due to hurricane proofing the houses - but I agree, and you certainly know more about it than I do

EDIT - I just looked at the pics again. I think the nail plates you are referring to were used when they cut the hole in his garage. If you look at them, they are used to join the 2x12's that were used when the hole was cut, and the vertical studs look like they were actually added for reinforcements.

Last edited by jschindler; Nov 6, 2008 at 07:52 PM.
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