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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by wjnjr
No, it's not. Read the manual.
it's fine thanks
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
Actually dumbass, page 10-4 and 10-6 of the 21012 Corvette owners manual has illustrations of where the lifting points are and give concise instructions.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

1. locate the lifting points(A) according to the Illustration shown.

2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle.

3. lift the vehicle with the jack making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs(B).
--------------------------------------------------------------------


The above is verbatim directly from the 2012 Corvette Owners manual. If that clear enough for you, dumbass, that can't read or understand GM's illustrations and instructions.

And I'll repeat, BUGMAN is not a GM engineer and his engineering(LOL) recommendationsfor lifting a C6 are not endorsed or approved by GM.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by wjnjr
No, it's not. Read the manual.
And now you understand why some people lock themselves in their C6 and then call 911 for help, when all they have to do is open the glovebox and read the owners manual.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
And now you understand why some people lock themselves in their C6 and then call 911 for help, when all they have to do is open the glovebox and read the owners manual.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 02:52 PM
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Racer
Well, I guess in this day and age, you deserve a 1st place trophy for getting one out of three correct.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
Well, I guess in this day and age, you deserve a 1st place trophy for getting one out of three correct.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Racer
Is that a new way of saying you don't have a clue as to what's going on but feel the need to post anyway?
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
Is that a new way of saying you don't have a clue as to what's going on but feel the need to post anyway?
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 04:29 PM
  #31  
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There is more than one way to skin a cat. I think Racer, and most of us out there in the real world and not stuck in a manual somewhere, have proven that.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
Bill, I agree that your attachment is for the lifting instructions for a C5, but I assume that the GM engineers learned something in the past 8 years regarding lifting the C6, so they made up new instructions that they put in the later C6 owners manual. They went to the trouble of changing an official GM publication, so I'm guessing they had their reasons.

Kind of like changing out the clutch fluid in the M6 cars. In 2005, their was no mention of changing the fluid every two years, but some real time experience showed the GM engineers that it was prudent to change out the fluid every two years, so that tidbit of information is now included in GM's official publications.

Following GM's guidance of lifting the C6 is no different then following their guidance in which oil to use. Just because someone might post on the net to use G5 rear gear oil in the LS7, would I rip the pages out of my owners manual where it tells me what oil to use and the dump some gear oil in the engine's reservoir, just because someone I've never met, nor do I know his engineering credentials, told me to.

I know that dumping gear oil in your engine is quite a stretch to follow, but GM has it's reason's to modify the way/where the C6 should be jacked. Why does everyone think they are an engineer and smarter then GM's engineers.
The diagram and instructions I posted in the attachment are the same ones used in every Service Manual from 1997 through 2009. The 2009 manual has a little more info on the possibility that a ramp may be required to get a ZR1 high enough to put lift arms under it. Other than that it is identical for 13 model years. I have the DVD version of the manual that lets me look at all of those years plus I have a 2008 Paper Manual that has the same info.

I also checked the 2009 Owner's Manual which has diagrams from a slightly different view but show essentially show the same points and compared it with the 2002 Owner's Manual which shows basically the same thing as the 09 manual.

Bill
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JoesC5
Actually, that is incorrect. You should use a block of wood to span the ribs on the crossmember, not all the load on a single rib as you show, for the jack stands(or jack) to support.
You don't need a block of wood. You do need to span across both edges of the cradle. That is the only problem I see in the one picture. One edge of the cradle is centered in the jackstand. There are adapters that convert the top of a jackstand so he could use them to span the cradle. The problem with using a block of wood with a jackstand is the very real possibility it could split along the grain if place wrong.

Bill
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #34  
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Has anyone ever seen or heard of a vette folding in half when they use Bugman's jacking points? I have used them many times when I use one jack and have NEVER folded my car in half, broken a cross member or any other damage.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #35  
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I would suggest that it comes down to 'the manufacturer's recommended method' or the 'I've always done it this way and nothing bad has happened so far method' - one makes their own choices and accepts the results.

Lastly, some great innovations have come from exploring options other than those recommended . . . . . others were too dead to report their results :-)
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
You don't need a block of wood. You do need to span across both edges of the cradle. That is the only problem I see in the one picture. One edge of the cradle is centered in the jack stand. There are adapters that convert the top of a jack stand so he could use them to span the cradle. The problem with using a block of wood with a jack stand is the very real possibility it could split along the grain if place wrong.

Bill
Do it however you want, but it is a good idea to put something between the jack or jack stand and the contact point on the car. Here's why: Metal to metal contact can be slippery. If the car shifts or falls off the lifting or supporting equipment it gets ugly real fast. Additionally, in a contest between steel and aluminum the steel wins every time. Using a "block or pad", as recommended three separate times in the owner's manual, makes the lifting/supporting process safer and helps to prevent damage to the relatively fragile sub frames. If it's too hard to figure out which way to run the grain of a solid piece of wood, use plywood. Or a piece of carpet. Or a piece of rubber. Or???

Be safe and enjoy working on your car!

Originally Posted by ssmith512
There is more than one way to skin a cat. I think Racer, and most of us out there in the real world and not stuck in a manual somewhere, have proven that.
I'm sure you prove it every day. Real men don't need instructions!

Originally Posted by JoesC5
And now you understand why some people lock themselves in their C6 and then call 911 for help, when all they have to do is open the glovebox and read the owners manual.
No kidding

Originally Posted by michaelinmech
I would suggest that it comes down to 'the manufacturer's recommended method' or the 'I've always done it this way and nothing bad has happened so far method' - one makes their own choices and accepts the results.

Lastly, some great innovations have come from exploring options other than those recommended . . . . . others were too dead to report their results :-)
Very well said.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wjnjr
Do it however you want, but it is a good idea to put something between the jack or jack stand and the contact point on the car. Here's why: Metal to metal contact can be slippery. If the car shifts or falls off the lifting or supporting equipment it gets ugly real fast. Additionally, in a contest between steel and aluminum the steel wins every time. Using a "block or pad", as recommended three separate times in the owner's manual, makes the lifting/supporting process safer and helps to prevent damage to the relatively fragile sub frames. If it's too hard to figure out which way to run the grain of a solid piece of wood, use plywood. Or a piece of carpet. Or a piece of rubber. Or???

Be safe and enjoy working on your car!



I'm sure you prove it every day. Real men don't need instructions!



No kidding



Very well said.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Racer
in respect for the missing avatar, may we all overcome our saddness.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #39  
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My 2005 owner's manual shows no pictures whatsoever like the pictures here. In fact, it says nothing about lifting in the areas where we would use the "jacking pucks". It does say, "Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs". "Lift only in the areas shown in the pictures". There is nothing in my book about jacking the car from the side with "jacking pucks" or that it is OK to lift the car in that area.

Last edited by Jimmy W1; Feb 22, 2012 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 12:35 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by J Willis
My 2005 owner's manual shows no pictures whatsoever like the pictures here. In fact, it says nothing about lifting in the areas where we would use the "jacking pucks". It does say, "Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs". "Lift only in the areas shown in the pictures". There is nothing in my book about jacking the car from the side with "jacking pucks" or that it is OK to lift the car in that area.
What some people don't understand is that GM wrote the owner's manual for the end user, not a technician that has plenty of day to day experiences working on car. But even then they do have to write service manuals for the techs as, like the end user, they do not know it all.

It's very unlikely that the end user has a 4 point lift in their garage and damn well very unlikely they have one available if they are trying to jack the car on the side of the highway.

Yes, GM says you can lift the car by the frame rails in the service manual, but that is for when using a 4 point lift and by a skilled technician. GM does not put the service manual in the car when it's shipped from Bowling Green, for a reason. It's not intended for the end user.

GM has to write the owners manual for the end user, which normally is not a service technician using expensive lifts to work on the car.

In the end, do you believe GM knows more about your Corvette, or Bugman? If Bugman were to take a chart from the back of the service manual where it says to use GL5 in the differential, and then changed it to read "use ATF III" in the differential, and then posted it on the Internet, that it would then make it a GM recommended lubrucant, and everyone should drain the GL5 from their differential and replace it with ATF III? God, I hope not. But if the end user, surfing the web, does not know the difference between GL5 and ATF III, how is he supposed to know what is BS and what is not, that Bugman posted?

Last edited by JoesC5; Feb 22, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
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