I am about to remove my tires so they can be sent out to get polished. I need to place the 08 C6 up on blocks for 2 months and need to know how far back from the front jack pad spots on the frame can I place the blocks to rest the car on. I"m going to jack the rear of the car from the middle of the car so I can place the blocks on each side of the rear of the car at the same time. Can I place the blocks beginning 2 inches behind the front. I"m using 6x6 pressure treated for blocks

 

Try this link.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-c6-pics.html

 

I love that thread. I've read it several times. It's perfect info for lifting the Vette. The photos are great!

 

"Originally Posted by rchbn View Post
Try this link.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-c6-pics.html"

Terrific thread for jacking up the C6. I ran into problems finding the jack hardware and made my own out of 4X2X3/16X26 in steel tube and it worked great. Car was nice and solid while flushing the brake system.

 

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead to avoid starating a new one.

A simple question: To put either front or rear of a '12 GS 6MT on ramps (no, I don't like driving a manual car over them), it should be safe to lift from the middle of a front or rear cross-member for the minute that it takes to put the ramps on and lower the car, right? I wouldn't leave it there for days or even hours, but looks pretty solid to probably be safe. That way I don't have to drive over 2x6s, or anything like that. Well, maybe on the front I have to drive over a 2x6 on each side, but not 2. Comments please.

By the way, spent an hour reading all such threads, and nobody ever posted what the service manual said. And since the rear cross-member is before the differential (correct?), no need to lift from there. I did lift my E92 M3 from the differential for that purpose, and never an issue. Thank you gang.

 

See my previous post. I would never consider jacking the car from a single lifting point on the aluminum subframe. Take the time to do it right. The method I ause shows no deflection and is fully supported by jackstands out on the ends of the beam.

 

The aluminum cradles are strong enough you can use a jack in one place to jack the car. The jack does have to have a saddle that is large enough in diameter that it can support both sides of the cradle. What I mean by both sides are the front and rear edges of each cradle. When you look at it from the bottom of the car it sort of has an inverted U Shape to it with the bottoms being fairly narrow edges thus the need to bridge across both of them. You can also jack from the side using the shipping slot holes or you can use jack stands at those hole slots if you have a large enough pad (minimum 3 inch diameter) to put between the jack stand and the frame. Since I have a lift I haven't had to jack my Z this way but before I got the lift I did it for 7 years with my C5s (same basic setup).

Bill

 

The jacking points are clearly shown in the diagrams shown in the owners manual. If the engineers that designed the car felt that it was prudent to jack the car from any other points they would have shown those points in their diagrams. If anyone has the finite element analysis of the cradles, that show the GM engineers are in the wrong, please post them.

 

Anyone have any pictures from underneath the car with jack stands placed at the front preferred locations?

 

That is exactly what I meant by the jacking point as I referenced bridging across the two edges. The bridging is from front to back and not side to side. Don't lift on one edge. You do not need the over done bridges some forum members have developed. The service manual diagram shows exactly where to place the jack stands or the jack. One huge problem is getting a jack into the correct spots on the cradle. That is why most people jack at the shipping slots (or lift pad spots). If you use a large enough pad under the frame you won't damage it. However, if you use the smaller metal lift pucks you will eventually dimple the frame upwards in a circle centered on the shipping slot. The pucks are only to be used in the rear and only with a lift that is lifting both sides since their area is too small to lift in one spot.

I started using a jack to lift my C5 high enough to do brake and alignment work prepping for track and autocross events back in 97 so have quite a bit of experience doing it.

Check the attachment for the Service Manual Recommendations along with my observations gained from jacking a C5 or C6 at home or track over the last 15 years. The attachment is a MS Word file so the pictures are resizeable if you want to get a better view.

Bill

 

 

This is not a GM engineering drawing, not is it approved by GM. Some guy on the Internet just did some southern engineering at Bubba's Bait and Chassis Engineeing Shop.

 

Bill, I agree that your attachment is for the lifting instructions for a C5, but I assume that the GM engineers learned something in the past 8 years regarding lifting the C6, so they made up new instructions that they put in the later C6 owners manual. They went to the trouble of changing an official GM publication, so I'm guessing they had their reasons.

Kind of like changing out the clutch fluid in the M6 cars. In 2005, their was no mention of changing the fluid every two years, but some real time experience showed the GM engineers that it was prudent to change out the fluid every two years, so that tidbit of information is now included in GM's official publications.

Following GM's guidance of lifting the C6 is no different then following their guidance in which oil to use. Just because someone might post on the net to use G5 rear gear oil in the LS7, would I rip the pages out of my owners manual where it tells me what oil to use and the dump some gear oil in the engine's reservoir, just because someone I've never met, nor do I know his engineering credentials, told me to.

I know that dumping gear oil in your engine is quite a stretch to follow, but GM has it's reason's to modify the way/where the C6 should be jacked. Why does everyone think they are an engineer and smarter then GM's engineers.

 

This is my ZR1 currently, because my lift is being used by one of my other cars, I am going "old school".

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

Actually, that is incorrect. You should use a block of wood to span the ribs on the crossmember, not all the load on a single rib as you show, for the jack stands(or jack) to support.

 

Actually, smartass, this comes straight off GM's specified jacking locations. Bugman just added spots that are suitable for single point jacking... Which work good.

 

It's fine thanks

 

No, it's not. Read the manual.

 

Actually dumbass, page 10-4 and 10-6 of the 2012 Corvette owners manual has illustrations of where the lifting points are and give concise instructions.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

1. locate the lifting points(A) according to the Illustration shown.

2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle.

3. lift the vehicle with the jack making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs(B).
--------------------------------------------------------------------


The above is verbatim directly from the 2012 Corvette Owners manual. Is that clear enough for you, dumbass, that can't read or understand GM's illustrations and instructions.

And I'll repeat, BUGMAN is not a GM engineer and his engineering(LOL) recommendations for lifting a C6 are not endorsed or approved by GM.